Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain 19% pulley gives 20psi!?

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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:11 PM
  #26  
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littlehandegan
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From: charleston, SC
But the engine should throw a over boost code, which turns off after 3-4 starts....


Jack
 
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 08:23 PM
  #27  
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From: SE PA
Originally Posted by Big-Daddy-Blue
What belt are you running?
Gatorback 4060537. Works well.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 09:34 PM
  #28  
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19% versus the rest

Well I had a 19% for a while. Yeah it got up to 18-19 was great out of the whole then fell on its face. Plus smaller belt didnt want to take any
chances. So I went to a 16% M7 now I have a power band off idle to
7000 rpms. I have JCW injectors and with JCW CAI. I think a 19% is asking for problems down the line.
my 2 cents


Guido (Cert BMW/Mini Tech.)
 
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 01:38 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by grillhands
Did you ever get the car dynoed to see how much power you are making and where you a/f is?
I did get it dynoed a couple of years ago as shown in this thread

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ht=dyno+Mugami

Can't say if i remember the numbers for the A/F exactly. what i do remember and it is why i went to v.32 JCW programming. The graph has a line for when its perfect ( I think 12.1 this is what im not sure of) mine started .2 richer than this number then at 2400 went another .2 richer and lastly at 5k went the final .2 richer.

Also since this run, I put on a Set of what I call Dyno wheels (wheel and tire combo is 21 lbs lighter and shorter than what was ran on that dyno) with this i got another 15hp and 10 lbs of torq.

As of today another 60k later after having this combo with a couple years of Autox and other events thrown in the mix. I've lost 1 belt ( I change belts once a year on the cars birthday), Blown number 3 sparkplug (50k miles), and the charger is down to 9 lbs of boost (soon to be replaced with one of the Teflon coated SC. Then ill have orginal one rebuilt) and have had the Front rear control arm stock bushing replaced 3 times (under warrenty)

hope this helps
 
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 03:55 AM
  #30  
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grillhands
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Thanks Mugami, that helps alot. One more question, do you think the 19% contribute to your SC wearing down faster?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 10:10 AM
  #31  
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littlehandegan
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From: charleston, SC
Originally Posted by grillhands
Thanks Mugami, that helps alot. One more question, do you think the 19% contribute to your SC wearing down faster?

Im sure it did, plenty of people run them for plenty of times, but its right at border line over spinning the supercharger, once you get to a certain point its over spinning and it just makes heat soak and no more power

Jack
 
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 06:01 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by grillhands
Thanks Mugami, that helps alot. One more question, do you think the 19% contribute to your SC wearing down faster?
In my case im going to say NO. it didnt really.. This is because before the Plug blew at 50k.. i still had 20 psi and did a recent dyno with the steel rims and pulled 203.. only 4 less than the run i did back in 2006. After put on a Junkyard head the Psi was down to 15psi and dropped steadily. This could be due to some trash that got in there due to that plug going through my IC.(The GTT IC covers the plugs)

On the other hand im not going to say a 19% pulley wont wear it out faster. what Jack said is true but it depends on how you drive. Im just saying it isnt the reason for mine going out.

In most driving city, hwy, etc.. your not really on the Supercharger only about 5% of the time. wether or not you have a pulley. IF the BPV isnt closed and your not using the boost. your not making any heat nor are you doing any excessive wear on the SC.

Now the Belt is another thing all together. With the smaller pulley in most cases there really isnt enough tension on the belt to keep it from Slipping on the small pulley. Which i found out early on and had the tension spring increased. Also is the reason i change belts once a year. After my first belt breakage which was on year 2 after the pulley is when i saw what was happening and increase the spring rate, but i still change the belt once a year reguardless. Simply because it cost less to change belts than all the pulleys on the car. I would suggest getting a Tension Stop stock pulley or other wise. The stock tensioner if the belt breaks will wipe out your Crank Pulley.

I have about 3 more parts to get in and then ill be doing the SC, Water Pump, Front rear control arm bushings, PS fan and other Mods all at once. Since its cheaper to have it done all at once instead of piece by piece. I've been collecting these parts for over a year now (limited budget). Just waiting for a good time to do it.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 07:30 PM
  #33  
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^^ Upon reading your sig, are you running 21% reduction?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2008 | 05:17 AM
  #34  
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Mugami
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Originally Posted by second to none
^^ Upon reading your sig, are you running 21% reduction?
Some where in that area .. yes
 
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Old Feb 14, 2008 | 07:18 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by guidmini
Well I had a 19% for a while. Yeah it got up to 18-19 was great out of the whole then fell on its face. Plus smaller belt didnt want to take any
chances. So I went to a 16% M7 now I have a power band off idle to
7000 rpms. I have JCW injectors and with JCW CAI. I think a 19% is asking for problems down the line.
my 2 cents


Guido (Cert BMW/Mini Tech.)
I agree ... my 19% was trouble.... two broken belts a long way from home in the mts....... low end comes on faster butthe dyno shows the top end dying due to heat and other issues..... my advice is to stay away from 19% and light FW pullies
 
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Old Feb 14, 2008 | 09:11 AM
  #36  
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grillhands
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From: NOSIDE, NJ
Originally Posted by SpiderX
I agree ... my 19% was trouble.... two broken belts a long way from home in the mts....... low end comes on faster butthe dyno shows the top end dying due to heat and other issues..... my advice is to stay away from 19% and light FW pullies
Can you tell me what "FW" is? Thanks
 
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Old Feb 14, 2008 | 09:40 AM
  #37  
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Elemental
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From: Vero Beach, Fl
Originally Posted by grillhands
Can you tell me what "FW" is? Thanks
Flywheel.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2008 | 09:43 AM
  #38  
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From: NOSIDE, NJ
Originally Posted by SpiderX
I agree ... my 19% was trouble.... two broken belts a long way from home in the mts....... low end comes on faster butthe dyno shows the top end dying due to heat and other issues..... my advice is to stay away from 19% and light FW pullies
Why do you recommend to stay away from a ligther flywheel?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2008 | 09:47 AM
  #39  
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Elemental
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From: Vero Beach, Fl
Originally Posted by grillhands
Why do you recommend to stay away from a ligther flywheel?

You know, just reading his post over, I dont think he ment Flywheel. Im not sure either now,lol.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2008 | 10:54 AM
  #40  
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littlehandegan
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From: charleston, SC
He might be reffering to lighweight crank pulley? Maybe?

Jack
 
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Old Feb 14, 2008 | 01:58 PM
  #41  
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grillhands
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Spider X please tell us what it means.... I'm going insane!
 
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