Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Engine knock & ping

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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 07:01 AM
  #26  
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380cc.
then tune.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 07:35 AM
  #27  
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sprp85

THANKYOU!!!
 
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 08:44 AM
  #28  
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I was hopeful that I would get me car on a dyno this weekend. Turns out the tuner didn't have time. Looks like sometime this week.

Then the search for a Mini tuner in Utah. Anyone know of any?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 09:34 AM
  #29  
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my car has heavy ping if i stomp on the gas from regular driving speed. it has less if i take off from a stop and push it hard through all the gears. but the car will stumble at high rpm some times from 4th gear and up.

i also went for a giac tune , it made the ping even worse. found out after... that you need 380cc injectors with a giac tune. installed the injectors and i still have trouble.

i know a guy with a big turbo older celica... he has this kind of problem as well , he fixed his car by running some real cool spark plugs (from a motorbike) he said i should try a cooler plug. anyone know of any plugs that fit the mini that are more than one stage cooler than the stock ones ?
he also thought a fuel preasure regulator would help. i can not find a aftermarket one for the mini. :(
 
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 09:43 AM
  #30  
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I had the one step colder plugs in when this started. I now have the stock ones in to see if it made any difference..... it didn't. Not sure that going even colder would help or not. At this point for me I don't think it would make a difference and personally I don't think thats the problem.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 12:08 PM
  #31  
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From: Somewhere just left of off center
NGK BKR8EIX or Denso IK24 are two steps colder.

I tried the NGK's with the same intentions as you guys and they ended up getting fouled up...went back to to the 7 series.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 11:32 PM
  #32  
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latte hiatus
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Originally Posted by HighLife4136
NGK BKR8EIX or Denso IK24 are two steps colder.

I tried the NGK's with the same intentions as you guys and they ended up getting fouled up...went back to to the 7 series.
Same here - went with the NGK BKR8EIX for a while, gapping them to 0.045", and pulling the plugs at 6K miles, found they were fouled (and no, they didn't help reduce pinging). Went down one heat range to the BKR7EIX-11 recently.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 02:15 PM
  #33  
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ahhhh!...... soonest I can get on a dyno around here is 2/26

I can't find a local place that tunes Mini's either. I saw in another thread that Jan might possibly be tuning at AMVIV, is this true?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 07:13 PM
  #34  
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Ok! The car goes on the dyno tomorrow for some air fuel logging

I'll keep you posted as to what I find. I'm hoping that this will help me to determine what injectors would be best. What do you guys think? I'm debating between 380's and 400's.

Will the A/F logging help me determine that?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 07:46 PM
  #35  
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Make sure before spending money on injectors to see if your fuel pump is in perfect cont. That alone can cause your car to ping alot. That was my case when Jan tunred my car. Danny at mini corsa had checked my fuel psi and it was at 41 instead 51. Due to running on a low tank all the time. Replaced pump for 220 bux and problem was fixed.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 07:56 PM
  #36  
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How can I check the PSI of the fuel pump? Is that something the dealer can do?

I fill my car up at 1/4 tank every time. Not sure if that helps the life of the pump or not

Thanks for the info! I love being able to take everything into account
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 12:10 PM
  #37  
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Hook up a fuel psi gauge onto the fuel rail. Remove the intercooler, install gauge, put IC back and turn on the car. Should be around 51psi.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 01:56 PM
  #38  
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One other thing about knock... you don't want it. Minor knock is alright for a time but severe knock will destroy your pistons and rings. Little pieces of pistons rattling around in your combustion chamber is not good. From my research and what I've been told by someone in the racing industry, knock actually occurs after the flame front. It's caused by a flash of unburnt mixture. It's very close to a delta spike (infinite amplitude over zero time). A regular flame front may move 20m/s, knock is over 100m/s. Minor knock occurs when a small pocket of mixture ignites. Major knock occurs when one small pocket ignites another, and another... When the pressure wave hits the cylinder wall, it actually rings the wall like a bell, causing the ringlands of the piston to lift up into the combustion chamber. It's an ugly site.

Moreover, all a knock sensor does is listen for the "ringing" of the cylinder wall so it's an after-the-fact device. Also, knock occurs more prevalently in too high a combustion temp which is why engines with aluminum cylinder heads can run higher compression as they dissipate heat better. But too cool a combustion temp can also increase knock, I'm not quite sure the physics behind this. Lastly, engines with larger bores are more prone to knock because the flame front has more distance to travel to hit the cylinder wall.

Yes, quite a bit of info but that's about all I know about knock.
 
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Old May 6, 2008 | 05:01 AM
  #39  
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Is there a way to monitor knock through the stock knock sensor?
 
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Old May 6, 2008 | 03:41 PM
  #40  
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are you sure it's not the dreaded card in the spokes sound coming from passenger side? run that window down and stomp on it near a wall or hedgerow and see if it sounds like when you were a kid on your bike. if it does get rid ofthe damper.
 
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