I have a new belt tensioner on the way as mine is worn out at just under 55,000 miles. I also ordered the Minspeed Tensioner Stop Bar as cheap insurance should the tensioner ever fail. With the unfortunate need to change the belt tensioner comes the DT tensioner stop, smaller Gates belt, new engine mount (rubber ripped), new NGK spark plugs (BKR8EIX), engine oil change (which oil should I use?), and tranny fluid change (switching back to stock, don't like Redline MTL) all at the same time (planning on a "service" soon anyways).

My question is the following, does the engine need to be unbolted for this as with the pulley? Or can it be done without that? Keep in mind that the belt is being replaced as well, not sure if that influences anything.

Oh and, who can reset the service counter?

Thanks in advance.

 

No, you will not have to.
Do a search in "drivetrain" threads for Belt tensioner and you will find several good threads on this subject. I did it and it made a huge difference.

 

Thanks for the heads up.

Edit: Thanks to gnat for helping me out with parts needed.

 

No need to jack the engine. Just remove the wheel & fender liner.

Surprise you don't like Redline MTL. Works fine for me. What problems have you had with it?

I've been using Redline 5W30 oil for years but, since you don't care for their MTL, Mobil 1 100% syn, the 15K mile stuff (have to be careful as they have several grades of Mobil 1) probably not a bad option.

 

Good news because I really didn't feel like having to jack the engine. I'll be using a jack to support it though as I have to take out the upper engine mount to replace it with a new one. I'm hoping this will also give me enough room to wiggle the tensioner out the back.

The Redline MTL is fine, I wouldn't say it is a bad fluid. I just didn't notice any difference between that and the factory stuff, so I'm going back to the factory stuff again. I got 4 quarts for $20 from a friend that's a tech so yea.

I was thinking about Mobil 1 Synthetic but was wondering if anyone had good experiences with any other brand or maybe just go with the factory stuff once again.

 

I actually had to remove my engine mount on our 02 MCS to replace the tensioner. It made it a lot easier and I went ahead and added the powerflex bushings to it since it was out.

 

upper or lower engine mount?

I'm going to be replacing the upper engine mount so that one is coming off, the lower I'd rather not have to deal with.

 

It was the upper. No oil filled POS on the 02-04's

 

Understand that the factory trans oil is not bad at all & $20.00 for 4 quarts a great deal.
Factory Castrol is crap. Just get the 15K mile Mobil 1.

 

Why is the factory Castrol crap?

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

The MyMINI TSB came in today . I guess I'll pick up some Mobil 1 Full-Synthetic along with the new belt. The tensioner itself probably won't be here until mid-week so it'll probably be a weekend project along with 05-06 flat black grilles.

 

Does anyone have a picture of the assembly together on the front of the timing cover? For some reason my spring seems to have to much tension on it. Maybe I got the shock on wrong...

 

I'll snap a pic when the tensioner comes in, still waiting for delivery. It'll look a bit different cause of the tensioner stop bar but that shouldn't change anything.

 

You should re-think about using a bar instead of a cable type tensioner stop. I could not get the bar to stop rattling, because if you tighten it too much it's locked in place, not tight enough causes the rattle. I tried all kinds of rubber/fiber washers and even changed the rear shock bolt to a stud so I could use a nyloc nut to tighten the bar. Nothing worked. I just got fed up and made my own cable type stop. No more rattles.
Detroit Tuned sells them already made.

 

Damn hate to hear this after the bar is already sitting in my room waiting to be installed. Anyone else encounter similar problems? I guess I'll just have to try it out and hopefully I don't get any rattles.

 

This thread discusses the bar type stop a little bit...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=82769
...another thing about the bar stop that's mentioned in this thread is that it limits the the travel of the tensioner when taking the tension off to change the belt.

 

I ran royal purple for oil when I did my change. It was $50 worth of oil but it's supposed to be the best.

 

Thanks for the link, great read. Gonna see what Minspeed's policy is on returns as I want the DT Tensioner Stop, I don't want the headache of having to deal with a rattle from anywhere near the tensioner again.

*EDIT*
Oh well, shot them an e-mail to return it and just placed an order with Detroit Tuned for their Tensioner Stop and a Gates Belt (K060532).

This should be a fun weekend project.

 

I'm having a problem having my tensioner spring stay put I put it all together on the timing cover... anyone else have this problem? Did I do something wrong when I installed it???

 

That's exactly what happened when I installed the bar type stop - rattle city! Nothing seemed to remedy this until I took it off.

 

I'm not exactly sure what it is you're saying. When you say that you "put it all together on the timing cover" Did you install the tensioner piece by piece on the timing cover? or Did you install a tensioner assembly and are having problems with the spring?

 

No rattle here with the MyMini bar stop...It is true that it will impede getting the correct size belt on though.

 

Phew, good thing I decided to place an order with DT and am returning the MyMINI TSB. I got an extra small belt for my 19% pulley and would hate to have to install the old one because of that.

 

Just to clarify...the bar only impedes the tensioner while installed. Removing the bar is very easy if you're in there doing a belt change.

 

I understood, obviously if the bar isnt installed it couldn't impede with anything. I'm not about to start taking the bar on/off every time I want to change my belt though.