Hi guys, I just recently purchased a MY06 MCS, driven it for a month and still loving it since day one but kinda got used to the power so I'm planning to do some performance mod once the winter is over. I'm doing some research on aftermarket pullies, what is the most I can get by changing them, can you guys give me some input, (own experience/ professional advice) I want to know what the diff is between 15%/17%/19% SC pulley and also 2%/3%/4% crank pulley. What is the best combination and will I have any drawbacks by changing them, I am a pretty aggressive daily driver so my right foot will be stuck to the floor most of the time . I am also planning on a GIAC flash after the pulley mod, or is there any other good suggestions.

 

A majority go with just the 15% and no crank pulley change. That is my recommendation. Keep it simple

As far as GIAC it is a great base tune and ties CAI, Pulley and Cat back together (Smooths out your ride as well) but with the results Jan (RMW) is getting with Dimsport and his prices it is highly recommended that you try to hook up with him.

 

A 15% is most likely your best way to go. It produces the least wear and tear on components, as the water pump is spun off of the charger. If spun to fast it will cause water pump cavitation. And that to the inherent inefficiency of the eaton when over spun and you start to find that the subtle pros of the larger pully/crank & pully combos benefits do not out weigh the cons.

And if your worried about not having enough power with the 15%. It's pretty common to see a car with a 15%, intake, exhaust, and proper dyno tune finding 185-195 Whp. Which is nothing to balk at if you consider our cars ar dynoed at 163 Bhp.

 

chuck it all and get the stroker when it comes out !!!!

 

Exactly my experience. I am also on the wait-list for Jan at Helix in January.

 

I will be at Helix in January so I will let you know the difference Hope you get in for January.

 

With Alta Intake, M7 16% pulley, Invidia Exhaust, DT Bypass Valve, Jan's Dimsport tune, I'm getting 202.3whp or about 226bhp from my 2005MCS. Jan's tune gave me 20 hp more and 10 pounds of torque after those mods.

 

Thanks for all the info guys, I will go for the 15% SC pulley along with CAI, Exhaust and etc. Any other parts that you guys consider as a must mod for the MCS besides pulley or a bang for the buck mod?

 

Yeah Jans tune for sure.

 

Pulley, CAI and Cat Back is a real good start and add the tune and you will have a seriously different car.

Rear sway-bar is also a damn good mod for its price.

 

15% SC pulley along with CAI, Exhaust and Jan's "TUNE"

 

Here is my "suggestion" what to do.

Stage 1
Alta CIA
Alta 15% pulley
One Ball Mod
RMW tune


Stage 2
Alta CAI
Alta 15% pulley
OBX Header
Milltek Cat Back
JCW 380cc injectors
RMW tune

Stage 3
Alta CAI
Alta 15% pulley
GP Intercooler
RMW Header
RMW Cat Back
RMW Head
RMW 440cc injectors
RMW Tune
Water/Methanol Injection

Stage 4
RMW Rotrex Kit
RMW Intercooler
RMW Header
RMW Cat Back
RMW Head
RMW Port Matched Intake
RMW 440cc injectors
RMW Tune
Water/Methanol Injection
RMW/Clutch Master stage 3
RMW/Clutch Master Billet Flywheel

Stage 5
RMW 2.OL Crate Motor
RMW Intercooler
RMW Rotrex Kit
RMW Header
RMW Cat Back
RMW Tune
Water/Methanol Injection
RMW/Clutch Master stage 3 or more
RMW/Clutch Master Billet flywheel

Longboard

 

Nice

 

Great list Longboard. Where would you put methanol injection, clutch, wheels, and brakes. I found the stock brakes to be inadequate once I got the head.

 

Need a staged suspension list as well

 

Suspension, again just my "suggestion".

Stage 1
Rear Sway Bar 19mm or 22mm

Stage 2
Rear Sway Bar 19mm or 22mm
Progressive Rate Springs
Helix Rear Control Arm's (Lower)

Stage 3
Rear Sway Bar 22mm
Progressive Rate Springs
Koni FSD's
Helix Rear Control Arm's (Lower)

Stage 4
Rear Sway Bar 22mm
Progressive Rate Springs
Koni FSD's
OMP Upper Strut Bar (My Opinion The Best)
OMP Lower Strut Bar
Rear Drop Links
Ireland Engineering Fixed Camber Plates
Helix Control Arm's (Lower)

Stage 5
Rear Sway Bar 22mm
JIC Coilovers and Camber plates
OMP Upper Strut
OMP Lower Strut Bar
Rear Drop Links
Helix Control arms (Upper and Lower)

Longboard

 

Methanol injection would start at stage 3 on.

Clutch would start at stage 3 on.

Brake's from day one. Different stages depending on budget and power.

Wheels from day one. Ya gotta have your own shoes.

Longboard

 

Great list. I think I would suggest that Stage 1 might include the One Ball mod as an inexpensive alternative to a new exhaust in Stage 2??

 

I forgot about that little mod. I will add it to Stage 1.

Longboard

 

how about stage 5 for the drive-line?
add stroker kit to stage 4! along w/ a quaiffe lsd, enough cluth to handle the power and a lightened flywheel while we're in there.

 

I added a stage 5 to the power list.

Longboard

 

Longboard, as someone in the know, what do you think are the advantages and disadvantages of going with the stroker kit before the rotex. The stroker kit will be more expensive, but aren't you close to where you'll need new pistons anyway?

I'm just curious, I don't want to pester Jan as someone who can't afford any of this great stuff... yet.

 

Advantage number one would less cost. The 2.0L without the Eaton is an awesome car with lots of TQ down low and mid. With the Rotrex on it you should see "better" mid range and top end TQ as well as a lot more HP.

I'm running 18LB's of cool boost on the 1.6L. The need for forged pistons at higher boost levels isn't the same for the rotrex as it would be with a turbo or twin charge set up. The rotrex outlet temps at 18lb's are "less" then a 15% eaton car.

Longboard

 

Those are ALL excellent recommendations!

StealthR53: If I can help in ANY way on your build, please let me know. Or ask for Ken in our sales dept. We are always happy to chat about MINI's and your goals. We want you to be HAPPY with the results after you are done.

Thanks again to those who mentioned our products as well. I REALLY appreciate the support!