hi guyz,
I'm planning to get obx header
Do i need to do extra things on o2 sensor!??!

 

If you plan on elimnating the Cat then you are one bung short. If you plan of re-using your stock then you need nothing. If you plan on going to an aftermarket cat - just make sure it has a bung.

Bart

 

how about resonator?

 

what about the resonator? - its not part of the header.

If your hooking the header up to a stock exhaust, I would do the 1-ball. You can pick up the resonator eliminator pipe from Minspeed.net.

I think this set-up = header + 1-ball is the best bang for the buck exhaust system and would take it over a "just" catback system but thats me.

 

Sorry

i mean what if the header with resonator instead of header gut cat.
will it affect the o2 sensor !?!?

 

the resonator would be after both sensors and has no role in how the sensors work or perform their function.

 

Bahamabart,
What you mean by make sure it has a bung?

If I obx header with resonator, do i need to make sure it has a bung ?!

 

I'm pretty sure Bart is talking about running a cat. There is a constant tension here on NAM about running a cat. or not, but in the end it's really the self-absorbed who run without one. But, do what you want, realizing that if you get an exhaust with 3 bungs (2 pre-cat, 1 for the o2 sensor and 1 for a wide-band AF sensor, and 1 post-cat for emissions) you have all the options available to you regardless of which state, or which Federal laws you think you are subject to.
cheers

 

yep, talking about running a CAT.

On the CAT subject, if the HP difference was significant, I might be more inclined to run catless but I've not read of any significant claims. I'm not claiming a green approach - my car seems happy and not limited by having it (i.e. no code issues, ect.....)

 

Just wondering anyone fit header without cat?

I want to know how loud is that...

If there is no different between fit without cat and fit with resonator then i might as well go without cat

Unless there are some side effect.

What do you think, guyz ?

 

1) yes, there are those running header w/out cat.
2) how loud is it? hard to say - the catback/exhaust system will be a "loudness" factor. Most indicate that catless is louder.
3) to fit the OBX to any exhaust without a cat, will require an insert pipe or extension piece to make up for the "Cat space".
4) side effect - cough, cough and possible code throwing.

 

Are you doing this on purpose? This forum has a search function, the use of which will garner you a vast number of posts that answer all your questions, and provide you with both sides of the argument concerning running without a CAT.
Enjoy the reading!

 

Oh kook ..
thanks DrPhil and BahamaBart.

I will read the post

 

i'm using the jackson header that is no longer for sale on mania's website and the billy boat exhaust. i'm getting terrible leaks now. the header doesn't have a flex joint in it but it has a joint between it and the exhaust. I've talked to the maina folks a few times but i'm not getting any help from them. I keep getting more leaks. the guys at meineke are trying to help me out with this but each fix last about 2 weeks.

 

The guy was asking about header and O2 sensor fit....you guys are killing me with this non-cat B.S. How much more can one beat the poor dead horse?

 

You have "discovered" that SS is the wrong material for the serious road racer. SS expands and contracts and in doing so breaks; it's definitional. SS's appeal is that it looks good in the box and works great for the street usage as it is durable and will not rust.

 

that's strange.... I know 2 of the best exhaust manufacturers that make exhausts for indy/nascar and many other racing forums and they all use stainless steel...... I guess all of those guys are wrong?

 

lets not start bashing each other kids. Price was the main factor in my header and exhaust set up. the header was free and the exhaust was $100 bucks. I do need something that's a little more durable. I do apx. 2 track events a months. Roadcourses not auto-X

 

I am not bashing your system... merely pointing out the error of the post I responded to. I think the OBX is a "good" header for the money and I tell people that. Is it the best ? Of course not but for $200 bucks what do you expect?
Regardless, good luck with your project!

 

Now that the issue of "value" has been raised, and since this is the going thread, I have to support the idea of saving money by spending more initially. After a year with my $200 Megan, and assorted cat/test pipe sections - 4 in all -, I have say that as I stand on the brink of spending well over $1000 for a custom made header/cat/mid-pipe that I threw good money after bad initially. Not that I regret the learning experience, but beware the hidden costs of a 200-buck header.

cheers,

 

can you give me a brief summery of the issues you had so i can try to avoid them also?

 

You can read a lot about OBX headers from BahamaBart's many posts on the subject--and he's had success and seems happy with his. With the Megan, I've had problems with the flex joint leaking, and the "resonator/test pipe" is not a CAT, so one has to be fabbed. The 2-hole flanges are difficult to seal especially once the flex joint stops flexing (just before it leaks...)
Some others have had problems with the head flange on these cheap Chinese manufactured headers. As I said, I dont regret the education, but it's obvious to me that they are not as well thought out as other pricier headers and systems are (such as RMW, Stahl, etc.)
But it's not like my experience is universal, and it depends on what you want. I just like to throw money at my car - most of it sticks. Looks weird though.

 

this is exactly why I use the highest quality V-band clamps and flex joints.
1. It's easy to take off
2. won't leak

 

As one’s road race track experience grows - knowledge is gained about what works and what doesn’t work for modified, production street cars. The MINI has an exhaust system (header, cat, resonator, flex pieces, tubing, hangers, mufflers, flanges/bolts, v-bands) that runs the length of the car. Expansion/contraction from heat is a major issue. NASCAR and Indycar, on the other hand, have what amounts to headers and short secondary tubing. Expansion is built into their engine/chassis building equation and rarely today, unlike just a few years ago, do you hear of a DNF due to a crack header.

The limits of many production based systems are tested running on big tracks such as Watkins Glen, Road Atlanta, Sebring, and VIR. Long straightaways that allow wide open throttle, high load corners, bumps and uneven pavement, as well as curb hoping lap after lap, severely taxes production based exhaust systems. (That is why many production based race series require exhaust system safety chains).

As one progresses up the driving ladder (which takes years) more and more modifications seem to take place. Significant suspension modifications include the replacement of the rubber OEM mounts with solid mounts and with that change you lose the ability of the mounts to absorb vibration, an enemy of exhaust systems.

If you are a prospective track rat you need to understand that track exhaust systems are different than street/high performance systems and that they are a maintenance item. Most street systems use inexpensive 304 stainless whereas serious race teams use Inconel. Stahl uses mild steel; it’s easier to work with, less expensive, and has superior heat expansion properties than 304. And to this day that is why you find Stahl headers on race winning cars in most all forms of amateur racing: SCCA, PCA, BMW, and HSR to name a few road race series.

http://files.aws.org/wj/2006/12/wj200612/wj1206-24.pdf

 

Don,
thanks for that time consuming post, you really put a lot into it, I sent it over to the professionals who have about 100yrs combined experience. They found it entertaining. They were also wondering what "driving" experience has to do with building quality racing exhausts?

thanks for the entertainment....
jan