This is about the only option other than a damper for the 05-06:

http://www.vipcustomparts.com/minicooperparts.htm

We installed the steering rack bushing and it is a very subtle difference. You need to drop the whole front sub-frame for the install and it was done in conjunction with a clutch/flywheel/LSD install. We also added the powerflex lower control arm bushings and we like how it all feels. I wouldn't install the steering rack bushing unless it was in conjunction with other work being done. It is just not worth the labor.

 

thanks for the info.
I think I'm going to just do the lower mount and tranny mount. If I really feel like I need it, I may get an engine damper for up top, but I'm just leery about those things.

 

As an aside, I track my 03 S a fair bit. I have a milltek header and exhaust, and the rattle against the center exhaust mount on takeoff is getting worse. I assume lower bushings and maybe the tranny bushing should clear most of this up?

 

^^I have a similar issue, nothing major, but I'm curious to see if these bushings will help cure that.

 

Just for the record, the lower-rear bushing in question is called the "Torque-mount bushing".

It is called that because it resists the fore-and-aft rocking of the engine, when under torque.

It does so more effectively than an engine damper because a firm one firmly limits the engine motion, while a damper only slows the motion, without limiting it at all.

Both can transmit vibration to the car body, slightly at idle, more with the A/C on, and even more so in an auto-tranny car in Neutral.

 

I installed the IE bushing inserts for the engine top and bottom and the trannie bushing. The top and bottom were easy but, make sure you know which is which. They look similar but one has thicker insert parts. You wonder why i mention this......... Yes i did.


The thicker inserts go in the top engine mount. there is also a nub on the mount and a spot on the new IE mounts for that nub. be sure to locate it before you clamp all the parts down.

There is a huge difference in the car now. It shakes and rattles lots. At idle the steering wheel and gas pedal shake a lot. I wouldn't recomend this change to anyone in a street only car.

 

And that's why the lower engine torque mount is plenty enough for a streeted car, unless you're oblivious to NVH.

- Matt

 

I think that's a little strange since it sounds like we've installed the same inserts and I have minimal increase in vibration at idle.

IE Urethane Bushing for Lower Engine Mount
Urethane Bushing for Gear Box Mount
TSW Engine Damper Kit

IMHO the benefits of the above far out way the minimal increase in vibration experienced. Especially since its only noticeable at idle on my car.

 

can't wait to install my poly bushings. I will install the lower first, then, If I like it, I will get the gearbox bushings as well.

 

The transmission mount was not easy to do. the engine inserts were a snap. For the trannsmission mounts I had to pull out the airbox, fuse box and the two intake hoses. Not nearly as easy as i was hoping it would have been. Oh, and i disconected the battery since i had to move the fuse box out of the way.

 

I am about to order the complete IE bushing set for all engine mounts. I do not feel that the vibrations could be worse than my sister's bone stock '02 MC, that thing vibrates like mad.

 

I guess you missed my post earlier in this thread

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...2&postcount=48

 

I had that picture with me. I'm glad you did that. It was helpful.

 

Glad it helped out a little

 

I got the complete set of IE engine bushings installed today. I should have done this a long time ago. Every aspect of the car's dynamics has been improved. The vibration is minimal, after I drove around a few hours, I didnt notice it anymore. Shifting and throttle responce is improved. There is no more backlash when releasing the gas.

Steering repsonce is also improved, as is lateral grip and turn in. This makes sence because the engine has a lot of mass and inertia. Gone are the days when the engine moved on its mounts and countered the car's momentum. Everything is inline and acts as one.

If you have any doubts about doing this, you will not regret it.

Instalation only took 3 hours. Have a rubber mallet ready as well as some silcone spray lubricant. Also, a jack for holding the engine/alignement purposes when working on the transmission mount.

These bushing mounts are a great bang for the buck mod, only $75 for them all.

 

An engine damper slows the motion of the engine, but does not limit it. Torque mount bushings will both snub and limit the motion of the engine, and the lower mount does more like 80% of the work, IMHO.

I've got the Madness torque mount bushings, and, visible in the dust patterns where the upper I/C diverter meets the I/C cover/diverter, my engine now moves less than 1/8" for-and-aft.

Downside is that the car vibrates at idle, and the A/C makes the vibration quite a bit worse. If I commuted in my S, I'd find it annoying.

The upside is that you get a much more controlled application of power at all times, and the "lurch" when take your foot of the gas is gone.

 

so my powerflex engine mounts should be here any day now, i got both the upper and lower, im just wondering if i will be needing access to a press in order to complete this? 03 MCS

 

Negative. Even when putting the Powerflex bushing in the smaller end of the lower torque mount, I ended up just using grease and a hand-operated clamp.

- Matt

 

To an earlier point I made, this does in fact eliminate the exhaust vibrations and rattle that I had.

The only point I can reiterate (learned somewhat by the hard way even though noted above by bluesmini) is that the upper and lower mounts have slightly different voids - the lower has slightly smaller voids, and hence uses the inserts with smaller "protuberances". I bought the Ireland Eng. mounts, and they all came unlabeled, hence the confusion. I did the tranny mount too, which also wasn't bad (the whole deal took about 2 hours, with some talk time in between). No press needed, just a strong grip.

Personally I'd agree that the dynamics of the car have changed for the better, and the NVH is actually not too bad at idle - I have gotten used to it in only a couple of drives - and is a far better alternative to the knocking of the exhaust system on the car's undercarriage (among other maladies). However this is on a car that has gotten progressively louder and rougher as I have done things to it to make it more track worthy and less streetable so that would explain why I don't mind it too much I suppose...

 

Could anyone please post a picture of the mounted poly transmission mount?

I had contact with Powerflex and they told me that the original rubbers stay in place and the powerflex needs to be squeezed in. I already did some work on it but I can't see how that's possible and can't see what must go where. I'm talking about these:

 

Remove the stock D shaped rubber washer/spacers and insert the 2 yellow powerflex inserts. If you have too much slop(ala NAM member PGT recently) try adding 1 or both of the stock D shaped rubber washer/spacers to minimize slop. I just used the powerflex inserts and it was a very snug fit. Have fun with the assembly!

Jeremy

 

I have the IE transmission mount bushings, I needed to pound with a rubber mallet to get it together. The stock bits are gone, as is some kind of blue "semi-circle with a square hole" plastic piece it wouldn't fit because of the shape of the bushing.

 

Yes remove the stock blue insert in the gearbox mount before installing the two powerflex inserts.

Jeremy

 

Just did my bushings today:

Took a few pics for everyone to see the process:
1. Remove Intake
2. Unbolt ECU (to gain access to 3rd brace bolt) 2 10mm bolts
3. Support Gearbox


4. Remove the long bolt that goes through the bushings (as said earlier in thread, it is a PITA to get back in)
5. Unbolt the 3 16mm bolts that hold the brace in.
Here is the brace:


5. Remove stock bushings


6. Remove this plastic insert that goes through the bottom of the bushings:


7. Squeeze in new bushings


8. Use supplied lube (I had powerflex, the lube came with the bushings) and squeeze the brace back on. NOTE: DO NOT bolt the brace down until you get the long bolt back through the brace and bushings!

9. Bolt the brace back in, and it should be set:

(This shot lets you see where the 3rd 16mm bolt is hidden underneath the ECU.)

 

Is something wrong with photobucket? It redirected me today, and some photos aren't showing up all over the forums.
Edit: I cant see your pics btw.