Care to share that info?

 

Doing a little research, the upper mount will fit 02-04. The 05-06 you can use the lower bushings and gear box bushing only, so the "kit" sold by out motoring will work for pre 05. Other companys (Moss) sells the pieces individually.

 

Thank you, I don't know much about how the mounts were redisigned for the '05s.

 

So what's the consensus on Powerflex bushings? Will the lower bushings do the job or should I go for the uppers and transmission as well? Also, how hard is the install? I've read several posts about them taking less than 30 minutes to install but nothing that outlines the actual procedure.

 

I read (but cannot find again) a thread on the Mini2 forums regarding the lower mount. Consensus is that they are responsible for 60% or so of the total engine torque load on power. Seeing as how this mount is parallel to engine movement direction, this makes sense. I will be adding them this Christmas. From doing the pulley swap this past weekend, the lower engine mount is VERY easily accessible. From reads and some personal looking, it should take me no longer than 20 minutes...pressing out the bushings should take about half that time. Simple procedure really (for lower mount)...unbolt the dogbone (and associated mount), remove dogbone, press out - press in bushings, reverse procedure.

I'll be able to post up pics/thoughts if you feel like waiting until after the 30th.

- Matt

 

I did my upper mount first and drove for awhile that way. Then put in the lower one.

I didn't find that much of a difference after adding the lower mount, however I would do both anyway. I did not do the trans. mount.

 

Sounds good. I'll have to give them a try.

 

I would agree with the above. The bottom one is the one that will generate the most "benefit" in the form of reduced engine movement front/back (or fore/aft as you prefer). That fore/aft movement is what you want to decrease given the engine placement.

I'd probably start with just the inserts and see what difference that makes. I suspect it will help a lot.


As far as difference between the brands, I would be interested to know what durometer polyurethane each vendors use in their bushing. A lower durometer poly material would likely be better for street driven cars whose owners do not want vibration to be passed through to the chassis felt through the steering wheel.

 

Identical to me Rhubbard.

I still might add the transmission insert, as it's in my parts bin.

Jeremy

 

I finally got time to install the IE bushing inserts for gear box mount. What a PITA! I guess it made up for how easy the inserts for the lower engine mount were. My only regret was not doing this years ago!

 

Even with the other mounts changed to poly, how much of a difference was there adding the transmission mount?

 

Transmission was the last mount I changed to poly and I thought it actually smoothed out the vibrations. Since you have an 03, you can do the upper and lower engine mounts and the transmission mount. I think that it worked best with all three of them done. The car is my wifes daily driver and she has never complained about it rattling too much..

 

Ok I'll fire in the trans mount inserts when I clean my air filter next then.

Jeremy

 

It made a lot more of a difference than I was expecting. Definitely worth the trouble IMHO.

 

verve, didn't you say you'd post install pics?

 

I will within the next day or two. I had issues with the large end of the lower engine mount...required grinding/sanding off about 3mm on each insert piece of the flat side. Wrapped it mostly up today...I've been very busy up til this weekend.

I don't think this issue is common, so no worries.

- Matt

 

cool, thanks.

 

It was a tough squeeze for me to get the lower one in there too. I worked it in with lots of force though. I think it's supposed to be done that way.

 

how did you guys do the install? On a lift, jack stands? what is the hard part and how can i avoid it. My parts should be here Tuesday.Thanks in advance.

 

I've got the Madness torque-mount bushings - the lower ones that keep the engine from twisting fore and aft. Unless you plan to track the car a lot, it's the only one you will "need".

The only time the idle vibration when in Neutral is really noticable is with the A/C on. When I have to wait for a light in the summer, I rev the engine tio 1200 or so to get rid of the vibration.

BTW, cars with automatic will have more severe vibration at idle if left in drive - the A/T is constantly working against the brake when at idle in D, and this transmits a lot more vibration than a manual tranny in Neutral.

 

First time I took it apart (and reinstalled), I drove my car up onto some Rhino Ramps, supported the engine with the jack, and undid the two large bolts holding the mount in place. There was not enough room for it to wiggle out and through, so I had to undo the 4 bolt holding the engine mount holder (attached to the oil pan) and remove that piece. By the way, definitely need to remove the PS fan...makes it a hell of a lot easier.

Next time, I didn't bother supporting the engine...gave me more room to work.

In regards to it being a tight fit....it didn't even want to catch the lip of the inserts before I ground them down. WAY too large. The insert (flat side) height should be the same height as the steel insert in the stock bushing...with the inserts in place, it should all form a flat deck. At least I hold this to be true; on my '03, there was no way in hell the large end (with the inserts in place) would fit...trust me, I TRIED to force it, and paid for it with 8, no joke, 8 bloody knuckles. I forgot to throw the gloves on until later. =P

If this makes little to no sense, you'll see what I mean when you get under the car.

Also, as far as reinstallation goes, put the engine mount in first, put the botl through the big end (tighten up a decent amount), move the 4-bolt-bracket into place, and tighten up the bolt in the small end of the mount. Save putting the 4 bolts back into the oil pan for last. Trust me, makes it a HELL of a lot easier.

Again, I'll post pictures later.

Also, it's not a hard install at all. At all.

Oh also, makes sure you know the torque specs of the bolts - they're metric so the grade is marked on the bolt head, but you need the chart to compare it to.

- Matt

 

Couple pics of the lower engine mount and bracket removed.

 

Gettin' to the inserts for gear box mount.

The parts circled in green are your goal.

After you support the gear box from underneath, your gonna have to remove the aluminum brace which is held in place with the three red bolts after you remove the pink bolt which is the PITA to get back in.

 

For the Lower Engine Mount:

This is what I mean about a flat deck. The bushing inserts need to be the same height as the steel insert (in the middle). There was NO way in hell it would fit until I ground/sanded it down (on my 04/03 build at least). It was relatively tight even now - I could get it into position but the bolt holes were difficult to align - I ended up using a screwdriver through the bolt hole to line it up first . You can see that I did the small end as well - the insert provided by Powerflex for that location had to be cut and ground as well...it jutted out about a centimeter beyond the purple bushings:



This is what I mean about doing the two big bolts (top and middle) before the 4 smaller ones in the bracket attached to the oil pan. For reference, the top bolt will be longer than the middle bolt. The involved parts have also been cleaned up as well:



Completed install. I apologize for the dirt...I was pulling a Tommi Makinen around an under-construction portion of the neighborhood. You can see where I had to break out the WD-40 and brush:




That all aside, you need:
- Ramps or Jack Stands
- 13mm Socket
- 16mm Socket
- Torque Wrench
- Good Music
- Good Lighting (Like all things automotive)
- 20 Minutes (I needed extra time this time around to grind down the bushings and clean up the area; 20 minutes if you know what you're doing, probably 30-40 first time you **** around under there)

REALLY easy to do. One of the cheapest and best mods for this car. No need to drop a load on engine dampeners...this will get you the same effect, using essentially stock parts, at a lot less cost.

- Matt

 

Defintley want to do the bushings.
From reading this thread, they don't make a top motor mount bushing for an 06, correct?

I have an 06 MCSa, I'm looking at getting all the poly bushings I can:
Lower Engine - http://www.mini-madness.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=110
Gearbox Mount - http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=36704

Is that all as far as available poly bushings go for an '06?

Also, anyone have experience with the steering rack poly bushing?
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...mount_kit.html

Thanks in advance!