Drivetrain Quick Mod with Air filter and plug wires
Hi All,
I am geting the Mini Cooper CVT soon. Before I spend all the money on the Intake and exhaust. What is the quickest way to add few HP? After reading all the post here, I think by adding the drop in air filter and perfromance plug wires can add few 5 to 10 HP.
If I am correct, which brand of air filer and plug wires should I get?
I am geting the Mini Cooper CVT soon. Before I spend all the money on the Intake and exhaust. What is the quickest way to add few HP? After reading all the post here, I think by adding the drop in air filter and perfromance plug wires can add few 5 to 10 HP.
If I am correct, which brand of air filer and plug wires should I get?
Just my $.02. But, I think for he money you would spend for the drop in filter AND plug wires, you would be better off getting a good cold air induction system. Madness, BMP, Pilo, Alta whichever you like. :smile:
>>Agreed. Neither the drop-in filter nor the plug wires do much at all - and certainly not
>>seat-of-pants improvement. Do a cold-air induction.
Disagree. Added Magnecors and a Green Drop-in Filter about a week apart. The wires, while doing nothing from a horsepower perspective did seem to even out my idle. The filter has added a little bit of a growl under the hood (even my wife noticed it), and just little extra kick. I suppose it's entirely possible that it's pure imagination, but seat-of-the-pants says "Yes".
Obviously a cold-air intake would do a little more...
Bill
>>seat-of-pants improvement. Do a cold-air induction.
Disagree. Added Magnecors and a Green Drop-in Filter about a week apart. The wires, while doing nothing from a horsepower perspective did seem to even out my idle. The filter has added a little bit of a growl under the hood (even my wife noticed it), and just little extra kick. I suppose it's entirely possible that it's pure imagination, but seat-of-the-pants says "Yes".
Obviously a cold-air intake would do a little more...
Bill
There are a few CVT owners here on MCO that have done various mods - I believe Harmini and Antsmini come to mind first. They have both done exhaust upgrades, maybe a drop in filter and intake as well. Hopefully they'll reply to this thread and give you some input...
Ultramini is getting a cooper CVT not a CooperS so no madness BMP or whatever cold intake.
First look at budget- determine how much you want to spend and how much more HP you wish to add.
Then look at whether you want a stealth look or an aggressive modded look. Do you want people to know you have upgraded or not.
If you budget is modest and you are looking for 6 to 15 HP increase then the likely choices are:
Intake- drop in green filter or UNIfilter- $40-50 low cost, stealthy, slight increase in HP.Easy to do.
see http://www.mini-motorsport.com/intake-mc.php
Wires-Magnacor-mostly help smooth the idle, might add 1-2 HP, small benefit. Looks good, fairly low cost.
Exhaust-only if your budget allows see below.
If you have bigger plans and bigger budget then:
Intake-Viper Pipercross induction kit for $329- (adds about 10HP) shop around. Maybe Pilo racing will make a good cold intake someday for the MC- check with Pilo- I thought he mentioned that something is in development- his current intake is only for the Cooper S.
Exhausts-Various brands to choose from all about $550. Search for discussions about Helix 13, magnaflow, R-speed etc.
See http://www.mini-motorsport.com/exhaust-mc.php
Headers-From around $750- adds about 5-6 HP and more power to the mid to high RPM range
Wheels-almost all Minis come with heavy wheels. You can get better performance with lighter rims in 15" or 16". Rough cost about $1000 or less depending on source, tires selected or shipping. The tires choosen add to grip (dry vs wet), ride handling/smoothness, looks and wearability. check out Tirerack.com, R-speed or Edgeracing for wheels.
This will get you started. Read the threads on upgrades there is alot here at MCO if you search and do some homework
First look at budget- determine how much you want to spend and how much more HP you wish to add.
Then look at whether you want a stealth look or an aggressive modded look. Do you want people to know you have upgraded or not.
If you budget is modest and you are looking for 6 to 15 HP increase then the likely choices are:
Intake- drop in green filter or UNIfilter- $40-50 low cost, stealthy, slight increase in HP.Easy to do.
see http://www.mini-motorsport.com/intake-mc.php
Wires-Magnacor-mostly help smooth the idle, might add 1-2 HP, small benefit. Looks good, fairly low cost.
Exhaust-only if your budget allows see below.
If you have bigger plans and bigger budget then:
Intake-Viper Pipercross induction kit for $329- (adds about 10HP) shop around. Maybe Pilo racing will make a good cold intake someday for the MC- check with Pilo- I thought he mentioned that something is in development- his current intake is only for the Cooper S.
Exhausts-Various brands to choose from all about $550. Search for discussions about Helix 13, magnaflow, R-speed etc.
See http://www.mini-motorsport.com/exhaust-mc.php
Headers-From around $750- adds about 5-6 HP and more power to the mid to high RPM range
Wheels-almost all Minis come with heavy wheels. You can get better performance with lighter rims in 15" or 16". Rough cost about $1000 or less depending on source, tires selected or shipping. The tires choosen add to grip (dry vs wet), ride handling/smoothness, looks and wearability. check out Tirerack.com, R-speed or Edgeracing for wheels.
This will get you started. Read the threads on upgrades there is alot here at MCO if you search and do some homework
Just spend a little more and get the magnaflow or just an intake...an exhaust or an intake would make more HP...Both would make a lot more
Trending Topics
Hello I have been racing my CVT for over a year.
My name is Tracy from Diamond Racing and the U.S. importer for Pipercross Filters.
Now bear in mind that there is a difference between Diamond Racing and other sellers of the Pipercross product.
To stay on task-
I would suggest the JCW panel filter which is made by Pipercross. As for wires, to be honest you would probally see a throttle reponse gain by any of the aftermarket wire upgrade. It is just how much and for how much money.
Now, I will clear some things up that was posted under this subject.
Minhune-The correct retail price for the CAI that Pipercross makes, called the Viper, is $285.00. This price is set by Pipercross USA which is owned by Diamond Racing. This price is being offered at the Diamond Racing Group website. If any reseller did not purchase from Pipercross USA, these consumers will pay a higher price. I will be the first to tell you that no U.S. reseller has purchased any products from Pipercross USA, all of them are being imported from other UK venders. So, they are going through 1,2 or 3 resellers be hitting the U.S. market. Which results in a higher retail price.
As for the best CVT performance mods. I would suggest a CAI, a proper exhaust and then lighter wheels and tires.
Let me explain-I would be lying if I did not want all Mini owners to buy my products. But, I will not tell you to do that on this type of forum. Because everybody has an opinion. Most of them are based on what they have heard from others or are biased.
This is what I would suggest to any NASP owner. As the 5 speed and CVT will see the same improvements or increases.
CAI-This should be your first mod. You want a system that is less restrictive then the stock air box and one that will not product heat soak. Now, the best measure of a CAI is air flow and heat measurements. Not HP on the dyno. Why?
Well you can not properly simulate forced air feeding into your system and you can not simulate the cooling effect that the outside air has on the full system.
As for the intake system heating up. Well the engine compartment of the Mini is almost air tight. Which means you will not adequate air flow under the hood to help in cooling the intake system. So any metal type of product that has been utilized in the construction of the CAI will contribute to hot air.
There is only 1 way to hook up a CAI that will not result in drilling or cutting. So, all CAI systems will connect basiclly the same way.
So, increased air flow and less heat conducting material is what you should be looking for.
Exhaust- To cat back or not to catback???? Do you want performance or sound? There are allot of good systems that produce lots of sound and some HP at the top end. But, very little at the bottom end. Which is were we want the extra torque.
To create the low end torque we need more back pressure. This can be accomplished by using the stock pipes and replacing that big suitcase in the back.
What we have found out is that stock pipe with a good high performance muffler, produces a better increase then a full cat back system with a nice savings.
Wheels and tires- When choosing a wheel tire combo to replace your stock factory wheels you need to consider weight. The less weight on each corner results in HP gains. So, choose a wheel tire combo that will weigh in less then 35 pounds.
There you have it the secrets of Diamond Racings CVT's. Well the obvious ones anyway.
But, if you are looking for the top recommended mods to do for your NASP Mini Cooper those are them.
Good Luck and have fun...
Tracy
_________________
Diamond Mini
My name is Tracy from Diamond Racing and the U.S. importer for Pipercross Filters.
Now bear in mind that there is a difference between Diamond Racing and other sellers of the Pipercross product.
To stay on task-
I would suggest the JCW panel filter which is made by Pipercross. As for wires, to be honest you would probally see a throttle reponse gain by any of the aftermarket wire upgrade. It is just how much and for how much money.
Now, I will clear some things up that was posted under this subject.
Minhune-The correct retail price for the CAI that Pipercross makes, called the Viper, is $285.00. This price is set by Pipercross USA which is owned by Diamond Racing. This price is being offered at the Diamond Racing Group website. If any reseller did not purchase from Pipercross USA, these consumers will pay a higher price. I will be the first to tell you that no U.S. reseller has purchased any products from Pipercross USA, all of them are being imported from other UK venders. So, they are going through 1,2 or 3 resellers be hitting the U.S. market. Which results in a higher retail price.
As for the best CVT performance mods. I would suggest a CAI, a proper exhaust and then lighter wheels and tires.
Let me explain-I would be lying if I did not want all Mini owners to buy my products. But, I will not tell you to do that on this type of forum. Because everybody has an opinion. Most of them are based on what they have heard from others or are biased.
This is what I would suggest to any NASP owner. As the 5 speed and CVT will see the same improvements or increases.
CAI-This should be your first mod. You want a system that is less restrictive then the stock air box and one that will not product heat soak. Now, the best measure of a CAI is air flow and heat measurements. Not HP on the dyno. Why?
Well you can not properly simulate forced air feeding into your system and you can not simulate the cooling effect that the outside air has on the full system.
As for the intake system heating up. Well the engine compartment of the Mini is almost air tight. Which means you will not adequate air flow under the hood to help in cooling the intake system. So any metal type of product that has been utilized in the construction of the CAI will contribute to hot air.
There is only 1 way to hook up a CAI that will not result in drilling or cutting. So, all CAI systems will connect basiclly the same way.
So, increased air flow and less heat conducting material is what you should be looking for.
Exhaust- To cat back or not to catback???? Do you want performance or sound? There are allot of good systems that produce lots of sound and some HP at the top end. But, very little at the bottom end. Which is were we want the extra torque.
To create the low end torque we need more back pressure. This can be accomplished by using the stock pipes and replacing that big suitcase in the back.
What we have found out is that stock pipe with a good high performance muffler, produces a better increase then a full cat back system with a nice savings.
Wheels and tires- When choosing a wheel tire combo to replace your stock factory wheels you need to consider weight. The less weight on each corner results in HP gains. So, choose a wheel tire combo that will weigh in less then 35 pounds.
There you have it the secrets of Diamond Racings CVT's. Well the obvious ones anyway.
But, if you are looking for the top recommended mods to do for your NASP Mini Cooper those are them.
Good Luck and have fun...
Tracy
_________________
Diamond Mini
Tracy-
Thanks for the summary of options and for disclosing your business connection/bias.
Sorry for the mistake in price on the Viper ($285).
For a drop in filter on the MC you're suggesting the JCW panel filter by pipercross. Who is selling it at a decent price and why would it be any better than the Green Filter (except maybe price).
CAI (cold air intake)- Since we are looking for " increased air flow and less heat conducting material". Would that be the Pipercross Viper? Or are there other contenders for NASP coopers?
Exhaust- OK , maybe the usual aftermarket CAT backs are not the most optimal. You suggest a "stock pipe with a good high performance muffler, produces a better increase then a full cat back system with a nice savings". This means cutting off the stock muffler and tailpipe and replacing it with what specifically?
What constitutes a good high performance muffler? Something other than the normal options like magnaflow or helix, r-speed etc? Can you explain a little more?
Wheels- lightweight- does it matter if 15" ro 16". 15" are lighter and somewhat cheaper- any great disadvantages besides looks?
I will remember your comments when I see quesions on these items in the future- thanks.
Thanks for the summary of options and for disclosing your business connection/bias.
Sorry for the mistake in price on the Viper ($285).
For a drop in filter on the MC you're suggesting the JCW panel filter by pipercross. Who is selling it at a decent price and why would it be any better than the Green Filter (except maybe price).
CAI (cold air intake)- Since we are looking for " increased air flow and less heat conducting material". Would that be the Pipercross Viper? Or are there other contenders for NASP coopers?
Exhaust- OK , maybe the usual aftermarket CAT backs are not the most optimal. You suggest a "stock pipe with a good high performance muffler, produces a better increase then a full cat back system with a nice savings". This means cutting off the stock muffler and tailpipe and replacing it with what specifically?
What constitutes a good high performance muffler? Something other than the normal options like magnaflow or helix, r-speed etc? Can you explain a little more?
Wheels- lightweight- does it matter if 15" ro 16". 15" are lighter and somewhat cheaper- any great disadvantages besides looks?
I will remember your comments when I see quesions on these items in the future- thanks.
>>
>>Exhaust- OK , maybe the usual aftermarket CAT backs are not the most optimal. You suggest a "stock pipe with a good high performance muffler, produces a better increase then a full cat back system with a nice savings". This means cutting off the stock muffler and tailpipe and replacing it with what specifically?
>>What constitutes a good high performance muffler? Something other than the normal options like magnaflow or helix, r-speed etc? Can you explain a little more?
I have talked to many, many a muffler shop owner who sells both cat-backs and performance mufflers and this is their story...
As of now, most vehicle manufacturers are already using mandrel bent tubing of the correct size for the displacement and hp/torque being created by the engine. Of course, for specialty purposes (e.g. like my cousin's Dodge Coronet with a 528 cu. in. Hemi shoehorned in it), the stock tubing would not be adequate. Depending on the car manufacturer, they may already be using stainless tubing, too, but some still rely on aluminized...
On the Mini Cooper and S, the tubing diameter for the exhaust is the correct size for the displacement and output. Of course, significantly improving the hp output of your motor may generate a need to go up say 1/2" in tubing diameter - that probably applies more to the S than the non-S, unless you slap a turbo on a non-S.
So, what's the muffler dudes recommendation? Hell, they'd rather sell you the cat-back because they make a killing on those at their shops. But most I have talked to simply recommend a universal, performance replacement muffler be simply welded in place of the stock one. Yes, that means them cutting the tubing, fitting a new muffler, and welding it in. Then, you can take your choice from tips, in order to make your install "unique".
Borla makes KILLER aftermarket, universal mufflers. They are straight through, but offer a nice deep, mellow sound and have the same warranty as their cat-backs. They are light to boot... Magnaflow is another choice, but I've heard bad things about their recent weld quality. I'm not really a Flowmaster fan, but many people are...
I've yet to hear someone do this to a MINI, but it sounded great on my Tahoe. The best part is that the muffler, with installation ran me $150, and the guy at the local shop was a dynamite welder. They will also fit custom hangers if required. So, for $150, I got the same EXACT setup on my old Tahoe that I would had I bought the Borla Cat-back for $600+.
The dyno proved the results - a nice increase in low and mid torque, with a moderate increase in hp at the top end which is exactly what I was looking for. For towing, it made a major difference.
However, the frankensystems (e.g. like the one I put on my Tahoe) obviously don't look as good under the car - but who cares? It looked killer from the side, behind, etc. and sounded excellent, and produced excellent results. Typically, they sound just about right because they still retain the right backpressure.
FWIW, that's what I've heard and my experience. I've never invested in a cat-back system for any vehicle, save an old 1979 Porsche 924 because you could get a great one for about $250. IMHO, most of these cat-backs are overpriced - they are beautiful though. I'm considering the Helix and the RSpeed, but at the same time, I'm wondering if I shouldn't track down a Borla muffler with the right dimensions and give that a whirl first... :smile:
>>Exhaust- OK , maybe the usual aftermarket CAT backs are not the most optimal. You suggest a "stock pipe with a good high performance muffler, produces a better increase then a full cat back system with a nice savings". This means cutting off the stock muffler and tailpipe and replacing it with what specifically?
>>What constitutes a good high performance muffler? Something other than the normal options like magnaflow or helix, r-speed etc? Can you explain a little more?
I have talked to many, many a muffler shop owner who sells both cat-backs and performance mufflers and this is their story...
As of now, most vehicle manufacturers are already using mandrel bent tubing of the correct size for the displacement and hp/torque being created by the engine. Of course, for specialty purposes (e.g. like my cousin's Dodge Coronet with a 528 cu. in. Hemi shoehorned in it), the stock tubing would not be adequate. Depending on the car manufacturer, they may already be using stainless tubing, too, but some still rely on aluminized...
On the Mini Cooper and S, the tubing diameter for the exhaust is the correct size for the displacement and output. Of course, significantly improving the hp output of your motor may generate a need to go up say 1/2" in tubing diameter - that probably applies more to the S than the non-S, unless you slap a turbo on a non-S.
So, what's the muffler dudes recommendation? Hell, they'd rather sell you the cat-back because they make a killing on those at their shops. But most I have talked to simply recommend a universal, performance replacement muffler be simply welded in place of the stock one. Yes, that means them cutting the tubing, fitting a new muffler, and welding it in. Then, you can take your choice from tips, in order to make your install "unique".
Borla makes KILLER aftermarket, universal mufflers. They are straight through, but offer a nice deep, mellow sound and have the same warranty as their cat-backs. They are light to boot... Magnaflow is another choice, but I've heard bad things about their recent weld quality. I'm not really a Flowmaster fan, but many people are...
I've yet to hear someone do this to a MINI, but it sounded great on my Tahoe. The best part is that the muffler, with installation ran me $150, and the guy at the local shop was a dynamite welder. They will also fit custom hangers if required. So, for $150, I got the same EXACT setup on my old Tahoe that I would had I bought the Borla Cat-back for $600+.
The dyno proved the results - a nice increase in low and mid torque, with a moderate increase in hp at the top end which is exactly what I was looking for. For towing, it made a major difference.
However, the frankensystems (e.g. like the one I put on my Tahoe) obviously don't look as good under the car - but who cares? It looked killer from the side, behind, etc. and sounded excellent, and produced excellent results. Typically, they sound just about right because they still retain the right backpressure.
FWIW, that's what I've heard and my experience. I've never invested in a cat-back system for any vehicle, save an old 1979 Porsche 924 because you could get a great one for about $250. IMHO, most of these cat-backs are overpriced - they are beautiful though. I'm considering the Helix and the RSpeed, but at the same time, I'm wondering if I shouldn't track down a Borla muffler with the right dimensions and give that a whirl first... :smile:
Based on the posts above, from diamini and scobib, sounds like the Remus *could* be a good choice for the Cooper, cost aside. It is essentially a free-flow muffler only, using stock resonator and pipes.
Or, you could seek a muffler dealer in your area that stocks the Borla Pro XS muffler, offset/offset, 2" diameter, part # 40346.
Rolling under my car, I can see that BMW made quite an exhaust pipe , 2" mandrel bent beauty with a resonator. I can't imagine that opening up the final outlet and ditching the factory can wouldn't make a nice improvement.
Rolling under my car, I can see that BMW made quite an exhaust pipe , 2" mandrel bent beauty with a resonator. I can't imagine that opening up the final outlet and ditching the factory can wouldn't make a nice improvement.
Hmmm... well, I'm not completely sure I can answer that, since it's not quite obvious what you are referring to.
But, my guess is that it's some kind of jab? I thought Mini owners were the enterprising sort, a la Jeepers... but maybe, since BMW is now making them, we should just roll over and buy aftermarket parts?
A welder does wonders, especially in the hands of a trained pro. And, seeing as how you can easily remove the last section of exhaust from the car, I can't see how it would be that difficult to have someone fab up an excellent match using good tubing, a mandrel bender, and a performance muffler and tip. While it won't be all shiny and perty underneath, the tip will be...
I'm thinking I'll be the guinea pig here... while the systems available are surely nice, I'll bet this solution produces similar numbers at maybe $150 with parts and labor (or free, depending on who you know). Unless I get the wild hair to go spend $550 or more on something I can do myself, I'll post pics and a report of a homebrew solution...
But, my guess is that it's some kind of jab? I thought Mini owners were the enterprising sort, a la Jeepers... but maybe, since BMW is now making them, we should just roll over and buy aftermarket parts?
A welder does wonders, especially in the hands of a trained pro. And, seeing as how you can easily remove the last section of exhaust from the car, I can't see how it would be that difficult to have someone fab up an excellent match using good tubing, a mandrel bender, and a performance muffler and tip. While it won't be all shiny and perty underneath, the tip will be...
I'm thinking I'll be the guinea pig here... while the systems available are surely nice, I'll bet this solution produces similar numbers at maybe $150 with parts and labor (or free, depending on who you know). Unless I get the wild hair to go spend $550 or more on something I can do myself, I'll post pics and a report of a homebrew solution...
No No, quite serious, a few months ago some one discovered, atleast on the S, that if you duct taped the four rectangular holes under the bonnet, it forced more air over the intercooler. in this case duct-taping the holes would force more air into the intake of the MC. it was dynoed and found depending on the days temp it netted 5 to 10hp gains. do a search on it, I'm sure it'll come up. MINI2 should have it as well.
Stopped by Pronto Muffler on the way home yesterday, just to see if we could test my theory about the Mini exhaust... the smallest Borla Pro XS muffler they had would NOT fit in the space where the factory stamped can goes due to the way the pipe comes in at the sharp angle. DOH!
The theory was this - that since the factory piping is all mandrel bent and is 2" (which is the correct I.D. for the amount of HP produced by the Mini), that I'd still have the correct backpressure with a high flow muffler... but that the higher flowing muffler would open up the system enough to unlock some hp/torque - especially torque in the mid-range. It's been dyno proven on many, many other cars/trucks I have owned that this setup produces more low/mid torque than a cat-back, and nearly matches a cat-back at higher RPM's...
Sure, I could have had them fab up an entirely new section from the resonator back, but the Borla cat-back they had on display was calling my name...
$537.99 (+ tax) installed. Yes, I could have done the installation myself, but why - they put it on the lift, and I would have been rolling under the car as supported by jackstands (I still say one day I'll build a garage with a pit or a lift). Normally I'm a DIY guy, but I ain't busting a knuckle for that price...
So, how is it? Flat out awesome. Barely noticeable at idle. During normal acceleration, it sounds nice and low and mean. At WOT acceleration, it's just fantastic. It's got more low and mid grunt for sure, which is what I wanted for autocrossing, but I do have to say that when the tach hits 4K RPM's it pulls harder than it did before. There is NO interior resonance at any RPM, which is a big, BIG benefit IMHO. With the windows down and the radio up, you don't even know it's there unless you give it WOT. It doesn't seem to be a head turner unless you get on it - and even then, it's a nice, deep, powerful sound, not like the Japanese tuner cars. I must say, I am wholly impressed.
I've heard the Helix and the RSpeed in person, and I like the Borla about as well. See what happens when you walk in some place and temptation strikes? Besides, I couldn't pass on the price... :smile:
The theory was this - that since the factory piping is all mandrel bent and is 2" (which is the correct I.D. for the amount of HP produced by the Mini), that I'd still have the correct backpressure with a high flow muffler... but that the higher flowing muffler would open up the system enough to unlock some hp/torque - especially torque in the mid-range. It's been dyno proven on many, many other cars/trucks I have owned that this setup produces more low/mid torque than a cat-back, and nearly matches a cat-back at higher RPM's...
Sure, I could have had them fab up an entirely new section from the resonator back, but the Borla cat-back they had on display was calling my name...
$537.99 (+ tax) installed. Yes, I could have done the installation myself, but why - they put it on the lift, and I would have been rolling under the car as supported by jackstands (I still say one day I'll build a garage with a pit or a lift). Normally I'm a DIY guy, but I ain't busting a knuckle for that price...
So, how is it? Flat out awesome. Barely noticeable at idle. During normal acceleration, it sounds nice and low and mean. At WOT acceleration, it's just fantastic. It's got more low and mid grunt for sure, which is what I wanted for autocrossing, but I do have to say that when the tach hits 4K RPM's it pulls harder than it did before. There is NO interior resonance at any RPM, which is a big, BIG benefit IMHO. With the windows down and the radio up, you don't even know it's there unless you give it WOT. It doesn't seem to be a head turner unless you get on it - and even then, it's a nice, deep, powerful sound, not like the Japanese tuner cars. I must say, I am wholly impressed.
I've heard the Helix and the RSpeed in person, and I like the Borla about as well. See what happens when you walk in some place and temptation strikes? Besides, I couldn't pass on the price... :smile:
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