check out the market place "FS: Lotsa Aftermarket Parts (Going back to stock)"

OBX header + stock cat + ceramic coated = 150.00

 

ssshhh bahamabart!

 

I've had mine a couple months. Love it. Going to change to the obx cat back very soon.

 

Assuming it's in good shape, nice price considering the coating is usually around $150?

 

Just a question about the OBX Header. I bought one off ebay and the Primary pipes that are welded onto the plate that bolts onto the Cylinder head don't seem to be right to me. They seem to be of a smaller size and you can see the pipe on the inside if you look in the 4 holes. Almost looks like they squeezed all four pipes enough to be able to push them through the four holes on the flange plate, stopped them level or just before then welded them in place on the other side. Does anyone elses sound like this, or is it just mine?

 

I guess I'd hafta see what you're talking about, but offhand that doesn't sound like anything I noticed on mine. ("noticed" being the key word) I've heard of some people getting a flange plate on their OBX that wasn't exactly level & having to machine it flat for a tight fit...Unfortunately, with Chinese manufacturing, I'm sure there are inconsistencies...as in "you get what you pay for" (shrug) NOT what we want to hear, of course.

 

I recently put an OBX header on my '02 MCS. According to the build date label on the product it was made a few months ago. The bolt pattern was spot on and the port shapes very close to matched [better than other headers I've seen for the MINI]. Overall I was impressed with the build quality, mandrel bending, material quality, and machine welding. The O2 bung was the correct pitch, and the header flange was thicker than stock, but not too thick to cause problems in using OEM bolts.

The sound quality is very different from stock. Initially I was offended, but now I'm enjoying it. The closest verbal description I can think of is "what a Honda would sound like if it was a real race car". It's half removed from being ricey...still a 4 cylinder, but unashamedly characteristic. Lots of bass and smooth volume control across the RPM band. My American V-8 loving father even said it "sounds good for a 4-cylinder!".

I can't comment on any power change, as I did a bunch of other stuff simultaneously. On the road the car does seem to have more lower RPM torque than other similar mod MCS's w/out the header, for what it's worth. I give it a thumbs up, especially for only $200! The only thing that was negative was mine arrived without any nuts for the spring clamp screws and I had to machine down the ball-joint seal to get a lower profile fitment. If you can swing the $$ to convert the whole thing to V-band I recommend not bothering with the included flange hardware.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

LOL I certainly hope that when you look inside the plate you see the pipes. And yes the pipes are pushed thru the plated and welded in place. As to size they are the same size as stock or slightly larger (inside diameter is what counts).

You trying to compare a weld piece SS mandrel piping to the stock cast piece.

 

Ditto except for the V-band conversion. While I did get a complete box set, it was bolted up and have had no issue for several years and over 20,000 on the header. The two key components to the flange are

1) Since the cat goes in between the header and exhaust, the cat length piping is critical when mating up the fit between the two. It should be snug Not pushing on the header or the opposite a space which you make the flange eliminate.

2) bolting - you do not want tighten collapsing the springs. AND do not forget to use double nut or copper nuts when you bolt up or you will be revisiting those nuts and bolts.

 

I didn't use the stock cat or a typical cat-back exhaust. As such, a v-band would have been a superior flange. Hindsight is 20/20 of course, and I could go back and re-do it if I was feeling the urge.

 

Thanks bahamabart. Do you have any photos of yours at all? I just want to see the inside looking through the flange plate.

 

FWIW, here's a shot of my OBX / stock cat set-up. Works great! Been on for 9 months or so with no issues.




Jim

 

The above pic looks perfect.

 

sorry, I don't.

If your really concerned then go to an autoshop that carries headers and take a looksie or find an installer and have him take a look at your header. Regardless of brand or vehicle type - all Headers have a commonality in design and fabrication.

 

If what you got is working then I wouldn't spend energy on it. I just wanted to point out that this old flange design can work for the MINI but some care needs to be taken.

 

You're preaching to the choir here. As a rule 2-bolt flanges are crap, especially compared to the superiority of a V-band clamp. I was merely pointing that out. Remember that I just finished fabricating [designing, cutting, welding, hanging] my own Cooper-exit exhaust; the OBX header was the only thing that bolted up, and even then it was just to the cylinder head. I used V-band for the mid-pipe to rear-pipe connection, and the only reason I used the included OBX 2-bolt flange was that it was sitting there and I thought I'd give it a try.

 

Well UPS left one of these on my doorstep yesterday and I was just prefitting the various parts... no nuts included here either. It's not like someone forgot to put them in a bag. The bolts, washers, springs and gaskets come shrink wraped onto a piece of cardboard. Of course the threads are metric (10mm 1.5) so I don't have anything close. They're also stainless, so Home Depot isn't going to have a match either. I stopped by anyway and picked up some zinc coated stuff just to mock everything up before I get started.

Turns out the bolts don't seem long enough. They are 2-3/4" long, but I can barely get one of them started... without any washers. Forget about 3 flats a splitlock and double nuts... while pissed off under the car. I read where some people claim the OBX springs are weak and could be replaced with better ones. Well the ones I got are pretty stout. I tried using a c-clamp to compress the second spring enough to get a nut started... no way.

Can somebody measure their bolt lengths? I think I'm gonna find some stainless 3/8" hardware for this, and ease the pain a bit.

TIA

 

Sounds like we got the exact same package, my bolts were short too; that's why I machined down the gasket donut. It would probably be easier to go buy longer bolts if you don't like lathing down that weird carbon/metallic compound.

 

My bolts were too short,too. Replaced all of the supplied hardware with stainless. (see above photo)

Jim

 

Hey Bahamabart, I just took some pics of what I was talking about. Does this look right to you or anybody else?

 

Definitely different! I took this off a previous NAM thread but mine looked like this after coating...!?! Where did you buy yours?

 

I bought it off Ebay, it came in an OBX box with all the paper work and the gaskets and bolts like all the others I have seen. The only problem is I live in Australia so it isn't like I can take it back. Any suggestions guys? Maybe cut the pipes where they are squashed out and re weld the proper size pipe back to the plate? But you guys agree that this is not right and won't flow right surely?

 

That's my ceramic coated OBX. Different for sure! Hmmmmm.......
Jim

 

Please note that this is JIM's ceramic coated OBX header & not mine. I certainly didn't mean to imply that it was mine. I just thought it was a very clear photo of what most of our OBX headers probably look like & therefore probably helpful in this situation. I guess I assumed you'd be flattered that I chose your photo among others, Jim. I apologize for not giving you credit.

 

I am flattered! Thanks!
Didn't mean to sound like an a**hole!
PM sent, Bill.


Jim