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Hey guys, I might be a bit Stupid for asking this question, but what does the Ceramic coating that you guys get done on the Header actually do? Are the OBX Headers off E-Bay Ok to buy? Or are they a ripp off of the real thing? Thanks in advance
I don't think you can rip off he real thing -------> OBX......
I'm looking at the obx header and noticed it was really cheap has anyone seen this product or have it on thier car does anyone recommend it thanks frank
Seems to work fine for me. My only complaint has been the lack of a flex joint at the cat, but that seems to be a cost cutting measure. I'm investigating the RMW header/exhaust, but at $2000, it's a bit pricy.
Hey guys, I might be a bit Stupid for asking this question, but what does the Ceramic coating that you guys get done on the Header actually do? Are the OBX Headers off E-Bay Ok to buy? Or are they a ripp off of the real thing? Thanks in advance
Ceramic coating, coated inside and out, helps to keep the heat in the header which aids in maintaining exhaust gas velocity. Provides less restriction and prevents heat erosion of the header metal on the inside. Also it helps to lower under bonnet temp. Mine is Jet-Hot coated, there are other outfits that use their version of Ceramic coatings too. I chose them from good past experiences.
I bought mine off E-Bay, at the time that was the only place you could buy one. I'm very happy with it. Best Bang for the BUCK header out there IMHO.
There is a really long thread to read if you do a search on OBX dyno results in performance Mods.
Helix13 a vendor on this site sells them now, anyway I think they still do, check them out call & ask for Eric.
Maybe you know of another vendor selling them now??
So I am guessing they class the flex joint where the Header meets the cat How does this work as from what I can see of those pictures it would leak exhaust gases out from where they join. Please explain
I know that this kit comes with a test pipe. Is it possible to run the test pipe without the check engine light coming on. Because I know that for example subaru's have a chip you can wire into the secondary o2 sensor to get the check engine to go away.
How much can one expect to pay to have a muffler shop install those OBX headers? My shop quoted $350. Is that unreasonable?
About 2 hours of labor seems reasonable. I had mine done for 200 bucks but that also included cutting off the stock cat and having a SS weld so I could bolt it up. So I think 350.00 is a little excessive.
Thank for the price reference, BahamaBart. You seem to have quite a few mods. I have only owned this 2004 Cooper S for about 3 1/2 months and I don't know too much about mods, although I've been reading a lot on NAM, etc. The car came with several mods, but the guy that had them done did exactly that.....had them done and didn't learn much about it, so he wasn't much help. I bought the car with an engine chip (Shark?), Alta S/C pulley w/pulley tool, K & N Typhoon, governer disabled, 18" RacingHarts, 215 X 35ZR X 18 Nitto Gen tires, plus the 17" OEM S-lites w Pirelli run-flats, then I added a custom cat back straight dual pressurized vortex exhaust system that has no typical mufflers or resonators (that I see in pictures of other systems). It also is made of aluminized steel, which is the best for Alaska roads. This shop customizes a lot of Vettes for lots of extra BHP with this system.
What other mods really make a different in your car's performance or handling?
Never having owned a Cooper before, but previously driving some stock Coopers before finding mine, this car seems to have tons of power and handles really well........maybe it's those tires?
Anybody try Helix's new OBX Header w/300cell High Flow Cat option yet?
Jeremy
Just installed it about 2 or 3 weeks ago. IT IS AWESOME! Great sound, great power, definitely improved throttle response, just awesome. It didn't throw any codes so no SELs, AND, it is emissions friendly! At least in my area.
Thank for the price reference, BahamaBart. You seem to have quite a few mods. I have only owned this 2004 Cooper S for about 3 1/2 months and I don't know too much about mods, although I've been reading a lot on NAM, etc. The car came with several mods, but the guy that had them done did exactly that.....had them done and didn't learn much about it, so he wasn't much help. I bought the car with an engine chip (Shark?), Alta S/C pulley w/pulley tool, K & N Typhoon, governer disabled, 18" RacingHarts, 215 X 35ZR X 18 Nitto Gen tires, plus the 17" OEM S-lites w Pirelli run-flats, then I added a custom cat back straight dual pressurized vortex exhaust system that has no typical mufflers or resonators (that I see in pictures of other systems). It also is made of aluminized steel, which is the best for Alaska roads. This shop customizes a lot of Vettes for lots of extra BHP with this system.
What other mods really make a different in your car's performance or handling?
Never having owned a Cooper before, but previously driving some stock Coopers before finding mine, this car seems to have tons of power and handles really well........maybe it's those tires?
Engine wise - level 1 is often referred to as CAI, Catback and pulley which give you the most hp/tq for the dollar. An ECU flash, typically seems to pull the mods together maximizing their effects. Additional mods from there are costly from a dollar-to-hp/tq perspective. Many here will tell you that from these mods you really need to jump to the $10,000 club to really get anything significant. Now we are talking head, cam, custom tune, larger injectors, after market IC ( living in alaska, i doubt heat soak is ever really an issue), ect.........................
suspension - level 1 is often considered rear sway, non-run flats and lighter rims. If you really want to develop the suspension - coilovers are the way to go for you get the most tuneability from them.
Sounds like the car is has all the basic (and worth while) mods and you are enjoying it. Assuming that YOU MUST MOD (i.e. I gotta spend some money) - you could
1) tweak up the brake system - SS lines, better pads, sexy rotors.
2) if you gotta spend on the engine - then head, cam and tune.
3) if you gotta spend on the suspension - coilovers.
PS - add a boost gauge - little interior entertainment.
Last edited by Bahamabart; Dec 1, 2007 at 03:02 PM.
OBX header/cat question here--is there anything I can clamp on in place of the cat (test pipe?) so that I can drive somewhere and get the actual cat welded in?
I want to install the header myself, but can't weld!
What size cat would I need to go from the OBX header to the stock exhaust?
Or is there anything I can clamp in place until I can get it all welded up?
TIA
Search the threads under OBX Header. There's a thread in 05 I found led me to a MagnaFlow cat (w/ part #s) that worked w/ the OBX. I'd give ya the number but it's with my tech waiting for my OBX to be thermal coated. The easy route is of course to use your stock cat off the OEM header. It takes a little patience but this search engine is your friend!
I have both OEM 02 sensors in place with an after market CAT. The ECU and #2 02 sensor will tell on you if the CAT isn't doing it's job. Mine was tested in July and it passed. Check out my gallery pictures to see CAT setup.
This looks like a cool setup. Did you bolt on the cat, or is it welded?
OBX header/cat question here--is there anything I can clamp on in place of the cat (test pipe?) so that I can drive somewhere and get the actual cat welded in?
I want to install the header myself, but can't weld!