Be as MINI level as possible.

Here's my approximation of where the gearbox/diff fluid level is with a MINI on the level. You can see that the differential is immersed halfway. The 1st, 2nd, 5th and 6th mainshaft is pretty much immersed. The reverse, 3rd, and 4th mainshaft is at the top and is splash/slosh fed. That goes for the input shaft/laygear.

If your MINI is pointed downhill you'll have more fluid and you'll have more drag and possible input shaft seal leakage(lookout clutch). If your MINI is pointed uphill you'll have less fluid and possible shifting and trans/diff longevity problems. Hope that helps.

Jeremy

Yellow Line=Trans/Diff fluid Level(approximate). Fluid filler at left end of yellow line. MINI rear end to left and MINI front end to right. Magnet at bottom in between diff crown wheel and 1st gear.

 

Around how much quantity is this?

 

1.7L from factory and I only got 1.6L in with my OBX ATB diff(makes sense as it's innards soak up more volume compared to a stock open diff).

Jeremy

 

I will be changing to AMS. This is the fluid you need http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtf.aspx
Note that is application is specific to Mini Cooper.

I'm changing the oil because I have noticed a new whine under the bonnet at 71k miles and I have a non S. I'm thinking it's a bearing in the tranny/transaxle thats not getting enough oil or the oil is worn. The sound comes in faintly in second gear but when I'm in third or higher it's noticeably louder. The sound comes with acceleration and almost goes away while coasting or braking. The pitch of the whine increases with road speed not engine speed. If you have any thoughts I'd like to hear them. I will be changing the fluid in just a few mins so I will reply here if this fluid change does the trick. BTW it's a 05' 5 speed.

I use nothing but AMSoil they are the undisputed leader in sythetic oils!

 

Gotcurves check for play in your wheel bearings.

Jeremy

 

Will do.

 

Redline MTL for pre 04

 

it should be level to get a proper level

 

I've been running AMSoil MTF 5W-30 in my '02 MCS w/Quaife and removed shifter inertia weights for 10 months now. Everyone that drives the car comments positively on how precise and positive the shifter feels.

I've always been a fan of driving manual transmission versus clutchless or sequential boxes because I'm quite good at speed shifting [using the clutch] without grinding the 'box like a ham-fist. Two weekends ago at the cars' first track day, the shifting actuation was flawless, and I only out-shifted the syncros in my speed-shifting-madness once, and it was because I messed up my clutch pedal timing. For reference, I used Royal Purple Syncromax in my old MM2urbo, and frequently beat the syncros into gear. I can definitely shift faster with the AMSoil stuff.

 

i just changed my fluid this weekend to RP Synchromax and it def feels smoother when shifting but i cant stand the notchy feel these trans always had to begin with. I was going to get the Amsoil but couldnt find enough reviews of mini owners using it so i went with RP

Ryephile...Can you elaberate on the shifter inertia weights that you removed

 

Is the RP Syncromesh ok to use in a 6-speed with factory LSD option? Do I still need 2 quarts, or a bit more? Thanks!

Edit: I'm coming up to 60k miles. Can anyone recommend a vendor to get plugs, air filters, cabin filters, etc. from? Or is the price negotiable compared to the dealer?

 

Does removing theose inertia weights make shifting a little lighter? I have a vw jetta gli and the shifter is a pleasure to use, notchy enough but smooth and much less effort than the mini. I'd love to lighten the mini shifter a little.

 

No way. Since that inertia is gone, the shifting effort goes up. After a weekend at the track, I actually could feel a bit of workout-burn in my shoulder If you want less effort, get yourself a Whalen ****.

 

to me its not about the effort to put it in gear, its the notchy feel i cant stand.

 

Removing the inertia weights adds to the feel of the gate, which means more notchiness. It sounds like you prefer the feel of a Fox-body Mustang with a B&M Ripper versus an S2000.

 

Of course its lifetime! Motor oil would be lifetime too, if there wasn't a thing called blow-by, which is where contaminants come in...
Okay, maybe lifetime is 100k. I broke open a getrag at 22k with stock power (I think the ring gear rivets broke, but the warranty factor meant I couldn't investigate). I would go with Amsoil if I were changing the fluids because I was replacing a clutch* (Brings up a good point, because you have to take the fluid out before taking out the axles anyway, so maybe clutch lifetime = fluid lifetime?)
Anyone thats using redline is crazy, that stuff is too heavy for a Mini trans
Unless you are running a dog-box !

 

I miss my S2000's tranny that was by far one of the best I've ever driven. Definitely one that the Mini just doesn't even compare

 

More info please.
I have seen vendors recommend MTL and have it in my MINI right now. I don't want to be using the wrong fluid.

 

So i have never changed my transmission fluid before and this is my first mini. I know it calls for 2 quarts but as i drain the fluid i am assuming not all the fluid will come out while draining. Is it safe to refill all 2 quarts?

 

Yes the fluid does mostly come out as the drain is at a low point of the trans.

I just changed the fluid for the second time. 25K and the MTL was nice and pink but did have a burnt smell. Easy maint and I would guess from the burnt smell of the fluid the change was necessary.

 

MTL is actually a little thinner than the stock fluid. MT-90 is a little thicker but there's still a lot of people using it. Either should be fine in the gearbox. I use MTL.

 

thanks for the tip

 

I've been running Redline MTL in my '05 Getrag w/ LSD for a year of AX and 6 DE's with no issues. I usually change the fluid during the off-season and will be doing so soon. I will report if I find anything unusual, but I've always felt the shifts were smoother with the Redline.