Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Power update w/video!

Old Jun 20, 2007 | 02:27 PM
  #26  
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Great Video, I was wondering if you had an outside video that I could hear the car going through the gears?
Mario
 
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 03:04 PM
  #27  
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here is my delima. For the non turbo owners that want to stick with the SC but still want to take their cars to it's ultimate limit, what are his/her solutions after doing all the add on parts/mods. Now I know Jan and others are working on the projects such as Rotrex and the M62, but what limits can we take this car to even without those options.

This is of course after having done all the conventional and the extreem mods such as big valve head and a cam, an upgraded IC, Headers, the pulley, Catback and a good custom tune. Where do you go from there before you head to Rotrex/M62?

I was reading an article about a compnay that is doing the BBR that is putting out 275 bhp on these cars. My guess would be that is the place to look before you think about going to turbo or an upgraded SC, such as Rotrex/M62. Although the BBR's phase 4 (the last phase before going turbo) has a high flow water pump assy. and redesigned coolant system along with a modified high mass air flow supercharger assembly.

Are these options to look at? If so, how does one get these mods/upgrades and get to install/mod them?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by blissfull
here is my delima. For the non turbo owners that want to stick with the SC but still want to take their cars to it's ultimate limit, what are his/her solutions after doing all the add on parts/mods. Now I know Jan and others are working on the projects such as Rotrex and the M62, but what limits can we take this car to even without those options.

This is of course after having done all the conventional and the extreem mods such as big valve head and a cam, an upgraded IC, Headers, the pulley, Catback and a good custom tune. Where do you go from there before you head to Rotrex/M62?

I was reading an article about a compnay that is doing the BBR that is putting out 275 bhp on these cars. My guess would be that is the place to look before you think about going to turbo or an upgraded SC, such as Rotrex/M62. Although the BBR's phase 4 (the last phase before going turbo) has a high flow water pump assy. and redesigned coolant system along with a modified high mass air flow supercharger assembly.

Are these options to look at? If so, how does one get these mods/upgrades and get to install/mod them?
I think you really are going to start to hit the wall with what you are talking about. The adiabatic efficency of the M45 is just only so much and higher revs and free-er flow will only get you so far. Realistically, I think in the mid 200s range is where you will be. The big dollar cooling system changes and coatings/treatments to the stock SC are really really low yield as far as whp goes. That mid 200 range is based on dynojet data too (working off Jan's and Hubies dyno charts). If you want north of say 250....well....I guess we will ahve to see.....but I think TC is your next viable $$/value ratio, then maybe the rotex or M62 kit and then a turbo conversion to get north of 300-325....IMHO of course....
 
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 12:49 AM
  #29  
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do you mean turbo charge by TC? excuse the confusion.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 04:11 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by blissfull
do you mean turbo charge by TC? excuse the confusion.
TC=twin charged.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 09:06 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jibeho
Well I had a 66 Chevy II years ago that had a blueprinted LT1 in it that would do a tad under 800HP this was a 5.7 liter and it was a dog to run daily. 5-8MPG on SUNOCO 260, ate spark plugs for breakfast and the spooled Ford 9 inch would make you recite Hail Mary's whenever you wanted to make a turn

That is the basis of my curiosity
I totally understand......but as you are well aware of...totally different beasts!

I am running a completely stock engine & that means even pistons at 23lbs of boost and have known to hit 27 psi and have not had anyh failures hicuups or miscues. I have expected it to go and nothing seems to be braking, know of course I am not trying to break it on purpose as I dont give it the full smack down everytime I drive it.

I am currently building a new engine for it. I am shooting for 400 whp for daily consumption. It will be turbo only when its said and done, but I will be running it as twincharged until i feel comfortable that the engine and new clutch are all broke in, then I will convert over to full turbo only. My main reason is to not have so many variables all in one shot. I want to secure that I put the engine together correctly & the dual disk clutch is engaging and bedding in correctly before I need to start sorting everything that comes with a turbo only conversion.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 09:20 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Trickle X
I totally understand......but as you are well aware of...totally different beasts!

I am running a completely stock engine & that means even pistons at 23lbs of boost and have known to hit 27 psi and have not had anyh failures hicuups or miscues. I have expected it to go and nothing seems to be braking, know of course I am not trying to break it on purpose as I dont give it the full smack down everytime I drive it.

I am currently building a new engine for it. I am shooting for 400 whp for daily consumption. It will be turbo only when its said and done, but I will be running it as twincharged until i feel comfortable that the engine and new clutch are all broke in, then I will convert over to full turbo only. My main reason is to not have so many variables all in one shot. I want to secure that I put the engine together correctly & the dual disk clutch is engaging and bedding in correctly before I need to start sorting everything that comes with a turbo only conversion.
More and more useful info in this thread

It's true the stock internals can handle high boost pressures. The failures typically are not with melted pistons or rod failure but ringland failure as has been documented before. As we have talked previously the other issue you start to run into in the high-20's is fuel demand and delivery. What injectors are you going to run? I am at 440's and have them dialed quite a bit back with the Apexi as it was running 9.5-10 AFRs with zero trim to the fuel delivery.

Sounds like the new engine will be a beast. Running 400whp is totally doable, I typically only crank it up this high on 100 octane though. Boost is mid to high 20's again to get this output. For more regular, and affordable use, I run 18-20 psi, stock fuel system and 91 octane with AFR's in the 10.8-11.5 range.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 09:52 AM
  #33  
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looking sick! that looks like worse turbo lag than my 60-1 on my s2k, but I'm sure its nice when it starts to spool
 
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 07:53 AM
  #34  
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Well for now I am going to use the 550's that I have in there to start. I run af's in the 10s to high 11's depending. I am running 93 oct here.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 09:02 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Trickle X
Well for now I am going to use the 550's that I have in there to start. I run af's in the 10s to high 11's depending. I am running 93 oct here.
Hey Trickle, I was wondering what software you are running or AFC?
Thank you
mario
 
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2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 09:15 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Trickle X
Well for now I am going to use the 550's that I have in there to start. I run af's in the 10s to high 11's depending. I am running 93 oct here.
How far back have you needed to dial the 550s to get those AFRs? I have mine trimmed back 25% on the high throttle position from 3500-redline.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 08:04 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by MarioKart
Hey Trickle, I was wondering what software you are running or AFC?
Thank you
mario
Mario, I am running the Apexi AFC with stock ECU currently. Its not the best but it does work. I really need to change my rev limit, and will be doing so with the new engine. I need to find a flash for throttle response and to raise the rev limit to 8k with the new engine to start, then I will more than likely migrate over to the Hydra once I work out any bugs with the new engine and clutch.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 08:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by AZMCS
How far back have you needed to dial the 550s to get those AFRs? I have mine trimmed back 25% on the high throttle position from 3500-redline.
On the HTP I am anywhere from 36-46% trimmed back. It all depends on what the weather is doing and if I dont have something crazy happening under the hood. I have been hitting 30psi a few times recently on the cooler nights and actually tripped my map into a P1688 code. I wasnt driving but a passenger and when it went into limp mode, I went back to the peak memory on the Defi boost gauge and discovered it was at 28psi, which unfornatly is the highest it reads. I also discoverd I was loosing a stock IC boot on the inlet side. It was actually pushing it through the clamp. I reseated it, cleared the code and all is good again. I need to dial down the boost a few PSI when its cooler out, especially when I am not driving!

I should have the new engine done this week, and hopefully get around to doing the engine swap. I need to get my daily sled back from the bodyshop 1st though!
 
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