The R10 that you saw at Audi NYC is a rolling chassi that was used in the wind tunnel and has no working engine. The race car that was supposed to run the streets of NY was canceled due to a new noise ordinance, whent up to Lime Rock with her sister. I'm not a driver, just a lowly race mecanic responsible for the carbon fiber stuff on the cars .
After the end of the season 1fstmini's bonnet is getting louvres, ram air , ducting etc.... time to play
Minwhile lot of stuff to repair before Mid Ohio, ruff week end in Slime Rock

 

 

I watched some/most of it, pretty good race overall.

 

.nooooooooooooooooooooo

 

ho yessssssssss

 

Been done... very expensive. Trying to minimize pressure drop though the longer piping needed is an issue as well.

 

cool thx.

 

has anyone checked water temp . to aleviate any concerns about not enough air getting thru the rad.?

 

herbie, we've already posted this info, PAY ATTENTION MAN!

Seriously, both myself and DrPhil have been maintaining the same coolant temps with the shroud removed as we did with the shroud in place.

There is a box for the front of the radiator under construction right now(not by me) to ensure without a doubt there is sufficient airflow.

 

you can never stop pressure drop from a FMIC....But id think the gains from the cooler air to the amount of pressure loss is greater.

The corvette sts rear turbo system uses a from mount IC which as you know has piping from the rear of the car to the nose and there is a def pressure loss. They made roughly 50hp with just the IC thru all that piping.

so why cant we benefit from a fmic. A roughly 1lb presure drop will be nothing to the power ud get from cooler air. Plus the amount of heat you would be taking off the engine thats stopped by the top mount ic would see further gains id think.

 

wow !!! i guess that was coming .. to me . i had my doubts as to the radiator not getting air . it's still a big flat surface perpendicular to air travel. it can only handle x amount of air . otherwise i guess it would be a drag . so this is good news . i'm gonna start cutting . btw i was at inskip yesterday . people were looking at 07s till i pulled in .... then it was " i want one of those " . ha! made my day . the alta with the webb head is deeeeeeeep!

 

Yea, you did have it coming.
Post some pics when you're done.
I'll be at Inskip full time starting Monday, BMW and MINI parts.

 

you'll be hanging with janine . say hello from john aka malo

 

But look at what it takes. The one Randy sold had issues, Tuls' hacked the bumper extrusion. If you look at the front of our cars, it's just hard to find a place for a 2-3 inch pipe to get the air to and from the FMIC. Maybe if you re-did the whole radiator area it would be doable, but not cheap at all. The race cars I've seen with them hack the crap out of the radiator mount.

Matt

 

Tru.....I know it will take notching the bumper reinforcement and rad housing.

No hacking here...."custom fitting" . Now if i can get this other guy to sell me a stock IC for the right price so i can HACK that up for the piping...lol

 

Ok, my new job is a little farther inland where it gets pretty hot.
It's about a 5-10 minute stop and go ride to the highway(a lot of stoplights).
These are the readings from today when I left work and on the highway for about 10-15 minutes...

6th gear
MPH=75
RPM=3000
Vacuum=5-10in Hg
Coolant=198F
Ambient=93F
Air box=93F
IAT=98-100F

Airflow is nice.

 

do me a carbon fiber hood minus the area of the scoop and i/c so i can do a shaker . i've been lookin' at it more and more . and a scoop out of aluminum ,which has the front shape of the stock scoop but comes up through the hood back to the i/c and bolts straight to the i/c would look awsome . do-able?

 

What about an electric fan by the air filter to draw cool air in the the wiper arm duct ?

 

homemade r&d

 

First off, if you're just blowing cool air at the intake manifold by blowing on it, most of the effect would be towards the last cylinder fed, not the first. Yet the IATs are being reported lower. How much of this is just the temp of the sensor body being lower, as opposed to actuall air cooling via a cooler intake?

Anyone done rolling 30-70 runs to see if it's actually any faster?

And for fans, there's a race shop that sells of stuff from Nascar on eBay. There were some brake duct fans (a set of three!) for just $45..... If you want to tinker, you can get the materials for cheap!


Matt

 

I have the sensor, connector, and some of the harness wrapped in a few layers of electrical tape to keep the moisture out, so I don't think were just cooling the sensor.
Plus the sensor is reading the air flow/temp on the inside of the manifold, not the outside.
To see if what's any faster? the car?

 

ha ha yeah custom....

why not something like this...



something else to think about is that the SC doesn't need as large an IC as I used... which means you could very easily fit a front mount in the "normal local... but running the pipes is still and issue... but if you are not afraid to go over the front it can be done with "ease"

My FMIC cut into the bumper just cuase it was so large... but one have as tall and a few inches less wide would not be an issue... it would stille be MUCH larger than the top mount... and the best part, it's in front which is what really matters..

 

Tuls, do you have a better picture of that setup? or some pics of the piping on yours?
I'm thinking of using the new 335i front mount, I just have to figure out where to run the pipes.

 

that the sensor is by the entrance to the manifold. Any cooling of the manifold past that point can't be seen by the sensor. So what is the sensor seeing? Is it cooler air from other parts gettting cooler with more air flow in the engine compartment, or is it just a change in the average state of the sensor? I haven't seen any data that can differentiate between the two.

I'm not trying to say this is a bad idea, but there needs to be other checks on how well it's working than the IAT sensor itself. Because of it's location, it's suspect for the information you're getting out of it. The idea of an acceleration test (yes, to see if the car is faster over a given speed) would be to see if you're getting the equivalent amount of quantifiable performanc increase that would expect from the difference in IATs. Just a sanity check, so to speak.

Matt

 

I just thought I would throw it out there. I have been running CAI controled fan and also a header and oil cooler controled fan for about 2 year now. My coolant Temp rarley get over 183 with a ambient of 105 plus. I tryied the removale of the whole rear bumper area and it did nothing to change my current tempatures even at a higher MPH. I thought of mounting small fans in the bumper cutout to increase flow at city speeds. Might still play with that idea. But in the mean time for safety I put an OEM back on. I found that ANYTING additional in the front area did increase both the tempature and recovery rate of the coolant. So none of my coolers are in the front anymore. Also with relocating the OEM recovery tank and going to a higher pressure radiator cap helped to control my temps. I also replaced the thermostat with a custom 170. Tried the M7 180 that by the way works very well. But went the next step and machined a high flow 170. Better. I am not surprised by the tempature figure that are being posted. It took at lot of duck tape orange ribbon temp sensors and underhood camares for me to get the nice cool running engine I have now. The issue I have now is that if I start the engine in the morming and it is below 50 on the highway my heater never get comfy warm. I will have to make a radiator cover for those cold morning warm ups.