Gtech PRO
Gtech PRO
I don't have a opportunity to go on drag strip so the Gtech it's all I have.
Here is my best run at 3°C without back seats.

The mods of the car are in my signature. What times do you have with similar mods?
Bye
Here is my best run at 3°C without back seats.

The mods of the car are in my signature. What times do you have with similar mods?
Bye
Hi, that is a very nice time. I am sure you can run faster if you could improve the 60ft time.
Normally you should able to do 2.1x with the LSD.
As for my 2005 Mini Cooper S, my best time was 5.9x sec with the mods in my signature, and it was test by the Beltronic FX system.
As for my 2005 Mini Cooper S, my best time was 5.9x sec with the mods in my signature, and it was test by the Beltronic FX system.
But only with rpms. You have there about 30 correct factors and with one of them almost works great. It's works OK but not perfect.
But like I said this is only for rpms.
Gtech's are usually a few miles an hour fast on the 1/4 speed and a little bit slow on the actual time.
Pulling a best run is not the best way to figure out how fast it runs with a gtech. Averaging a few runs will be very close to actual speeds and times.
Pulling a best run is not the best way to figure out how fast it runs with a gtech. Averaging a few runs will be very close to actual speeds and times.
After six runs was the slowest time 14.317 and speed (other run) 102.7 mph.
This is without back seats.
The best time before that (other day) was 14.209 and 101,2 mph with seats and full tank.
Yes I have a wheel spin, the road was a little slippery. With some semislicks like toyo r888 it could go better.
Here is accurancy: http://www.gtechpro.com/accuracy.html
Isn't it as bad.
This is without back seats.
The best time before that (other day) was 14.209 and 101,2 mph with seats and full tank.
Yes I have a wheel spin, the road was a little slippery. With some semislicks like toyo r888 it could go better.
Here is accurancy: http://www.gtechpro.com/accuracy.html
Isn't it as bad.
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Unfortunately I do not have any track near me.
When I have calibrate it first time it's works perfcet, then I put in on some others cars and now was a little problem with calibration.
But only with rpms. You have there about 30 correct factors and with one of them almost works great. It's works OK but not perfect.
But like I said this is only for rpms.
But only with rpms. You have there about 30 correct factors and with one of them almost works great. It's works OK but not perfect.
But like I said this is only for rpms.

those g-techs are pretty inaccurate... a mini pulling 1.1g would be pretty tough unless it was on slicks or only for a split second... not constant cornering... and as far as the 1/4 times... correct me if i am wrong please... but i don't think the gtech calculates the trap speed like a drag strip does...
those g-techs are pretty inaccurate... a mini pulling 1.1g would be pretty tough unless it was on slicks or only for a split second... not constant cornering... and as far as the 1/4 times... correct me if i am wrong please... but i don't think the gtech calculates the trap speed like a drag strip does...
Most people said it's in 0.1 seconds accurate.
And those people I trust.
They're accurate, as long as you compare apples to apples. I have the G-Tech Pro RR, and I routinely get 1.1g lateral acceleration on street tires during autocross runs, *but* that's only for short-duration transitions like a slalom. We had one autocross setup that included a skidpad-shaped element, and my *sustained* lateral acceleration during that part of the run was much lower than 1.1g.
And the trap speed for the G-Tech *is* calculated differently than at a drag strip. At a strip, your trap speed is calculated by measuring the time between breaking two light beams at the end of the track, so the "trap speed" is really your *average* speed over the last 65ft or so of the run. With the G-Tech, it records your *instantaneous* speed at the 1/4-mile point, so it will always be a little bit higher than what you would get at a track, especially if your car is still accelerating at the end of the run.
And the trap speed for the G-Tech *is* calculated differently than at a drag strip. At a strip, your trap speed is calculated by measuring the time between breaking two light beams at the end of the track, so the "trap speed" is really your *average* speed over the last 65ft or so of the run. With the G-Tech, it records your *instantaneous* speed at the 1/4-mile point, so it will always be a little bit higher than what you would get at a track, especially if your car is still accelerating at the end of the run.
They're accurate, as long as you compare apples to apples. I have the G-Tech Pro RR, and I routinely get 1.1g lateral acceleration on street tires during autocross runs, *but* that's only for short-duration transitions like a slalom. We had one autocross setup that included a skidpad-shaped element, and my *sustained* lateral acceleration during that part of the run was much lower than 1.1g.
And the trap speed for the G-Tech *is* calculated differently than at a drag strip. At a strip, your trap speed is calculated by measuring the time between breaking two light beams at the end of the track, so the "trap speed" is really your *average* speed over the last 65ft or so of the run. With the G-Tech, it records your *instantaneous* speed at the 1/4-mile point, so it will always be a little bit higher than what you would get at a track, especially if your car is still accelerating at the end of the run.
And the trap speed for the G-Tech *is* calculated differently than at a drag strip. At a strip, your trap speed is calculated by measuring the time between breaking two light beams at the end of the track, so the "trap speed" is really your *average* speed over the last 65ft or so of the run. With the G-Tech, it records your *instantaneous* speed at the 1/4-mile point, so it will always be a little bit higher than what you would get at a track, especially if your car is still accelerating at the end of the run.
wow... beat me to it!
Thank you for clearing that up for him... now it looks like he has a few other people he can TRUST
The Gtech is a great tool to compare pre and post mod differences but are not that accurate unless calibrated on a track and the correct setting are put in. A change to suspension would require a new calibration too. What are similarly modded MCS's running on an actual track?
I have already told the gtech is only way to get the times. We do not have any track and if you can't understand that i can't help you.
And if it's good enough for people who have 600HP 1.8T motors is good enough for me too.
If I hold the Mcoupe on the track (2 in my mini and 1 in coupe) it can't be so slow as you try to show me.
And if it's good enough for people who have 600HP 1.8T motors is good enough for me too.
If I hold the Mcoupe on the track (2 in my mini and 1 in coupe) it can't be so slow as you try to show me.
The Gtech is a great tool to compare pre and post mod differences but are not that accurate unless calibrated on a track and the correct setting are put in. A change to suspension would require a new calibration too. What are similarly modded MCS's running on an actual track?

The slow MINI has:
- 19% KMT reduction pulley
- OBX header
- JCW airbox
The Gtech is a great tool to compare pre and post mod differences but are not that accurate unless calibrated on a track and the correct setting are put in. A change to suspension would require a new calibration too. What are similarly modded MCS's running on an actual track?
The only other parameter that needs to be accurately set is the weight of the car plus driver.
Once you have it set up to read your engine RPM reliably, the only calibration that's needed is a short (less than 20') launch so the accelerometers can get themselves aligned. It's true that you would need to do this after a suspension change to get the most-accurate numbers, but that's not really a big deal - I do the calibration every time I use the G-Tech, because unless you clip it into the mount the exact same way each time, the accelerometers will need to be re-aligned anyway.
The only other parameter that needs to be accurately set is the weight of the car plus driver.
The only other parameter that needs to be accurately set is the weight of the car plus driver.
I'm not saying OP's car is slow. Maybe it's faster than what the Gtech reads, I'm not there so I don't know.
OP, enjoy your car. I'm sure it is fast and fun to drive. Numbers are for bragging, driving is for fun.
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