i use %50 Slick, %50 properly diluted Mystique water. The Slick is expensive, but watering it down takes the bite out of the wallet. Plus i absolutly love the stuff, so I don't mind.

 

Another vote for Mequiar's clay & QD. It works quite well & is available locally so I see no reason to change

 

[hijack]
Hooray! Another female OC!!! And I can empathize with the statement above. I've offered to do his car for him, too, which he is excited about. Then I will practice on family cars for a little bit of $$$. Then hopefully, depending on the level of skill I achieve, maybe I could expand out a little, even if just one car a week...

We now return to your regularly scheduled post...
[/hijack]

 

I don't know what is on it now - the car is only 3 months old, and I have only washed it so far. Does anyone know what comes from the factory on the paint? Synthetic or old school wax?

 

From the factory it has Cosmoline on it until the port. There they hot wash it to remove all the Cosmoline crap (though if you have yellow goo coming out from under your washer jets and staining your paint you know what kind of a job they did). Once it gets to the dealer it gets prep'd and there is where they would apply the wax. I would guess it's some cheapo Carnauba but you could call them to find out for sure.
For a new car I think the Dawn wash or Paint Prep (Groits or P21S), then clay and the rest.
I'm sure OctaneGuy or Heather will jump in here if I'm leading you off a cliff or lying too badly to you.

 

Yes, you are being watched.

I don't dawn wash or P21 either--just clay and paint clean with polisher. If I want to remove any existing wax, it'll happen during the polishing/cleaning step, so why worry?

 

are you going to offer classes when you get your shop rolling?

have like a Octaneguy-Approved diploma's for successfully completing
yada yada training course. kinda cool.

 

oooo sign me up!

 

Classes are beginning next month. School is in!

We're working on a schedule right now for AMVIV classes--sign up will be starting by the end of the week I hope. My partner will be attending AMVIV with me to help run the vendor booth. I've had a lot of requests for details on individual cars, but last year, I could only hit so many cars--so this year, I'd much rather help more people out by doing like a 1 hour class or so where we can address specific issues and how to solve them.

We're scheduling our road tour classes as well for next month--looking at Boston and Orlando possibly next month and Canada.

I've got different people working out logistics and such. As for diplomas--haha again something we've thought about but haven't really decided.

I'm also working on rolling out a new television site at ShowCarGarage.TV, a membership driven online video site.

I'm also introducing a line of accessories for making the Porter Cable polisher safer and more effective. Starting with the launch of the PC Guard. Price is $9.95 + shipping, and will be available in my store later this week. There will be a vendor announcement on it soon, so keep an eye out for it.



Richard

 

PC guard. Grit guard.

I need to buy some of these guards you speak of.

 

Well the PC Guard is a no brainer. I could have used it on some wheels that I accidentally scratched with my PC while trying to polish out some aluminum rims--cost me $700 for that mistake. Will never do that again with a PC.

Also prevents damage to things like spoilers, door handles, trunk lids, anywhere you might push the PC pad under and have the potential for the PC to vibrate against it.

Richard

I

 

good idea. sign me up

 

cool... i'm still hoping to get to LA at some point, but I hadn't thought about AMVIV... hmmmm... looks like i might have to plan a roadtrip from Memphis to Vegas to LA to Berkeley. Please keep us informed on the class sign up.

I wonder if there are still rooms in Vegas....

 

I am SO in!

 

Wow, I haven't even received my PC yet and I can already buy accessories? Just my style! I'll be looking for the announcement for that, and for the AMVIV classes - I'm already registered and have a room, so I'll need to get in on that. And just one OC's opinion, but I think you should start your winter tours in a nice warm place... (like Phoenix maybe ?) where we can actually wash in the winter!

 

very cool.

 

OK, so based on all the input, this is my assumption of what a reasonable but minimal approach to car care should be (remaining questions in green):

First "real" wash to prep car
1) Wash the car to remove old wax. Dawn (natural) or vinegar (synthetic). [What if I don't know what's on the car...dealer prepped...??]
2) Dry with waffle weave towels.
3) Claybar the car. [paint only I presume, avoid stripes and clear bra??]
4) Wash with Mystique or other quality car soap and dry with waffle weave
3) Wax with Epic. Let sit 30-45 minutes, buff with towel. Done.

Next several washes
a) Wash with Mystique or other quality car soap
b) Remove most but not all water with blade or similar
c) Hydro and dry with waffle weave

Reapply Epic every once in a while [how often in the Vegas area with lots o' sun, wind and dust but little rain?]

Question about step b: If the car is supposed to be damp for Hydro to work, how do you handle it when the water beads up and portions of the paint appear dry while others are under a puddle?

Can someone recommend a good exterior trim product that doesn't require mail order? I want to pick some up when I get the Claybar kit.

Thanks for all the help...awaiting my deliveries from DP (didn't get everything I needed on the first order)

 

SinMINI - I would guess that your dealer applied a natural Carnauba wax so the dawn wash is probably appropriate. I know that OctaneGuy just uses his polish to remove any remaining wax but a good Dawn wash with hot water will probably remove any remaining Cosmoline that may be left over from shipping. If you really want to nail down what was applied, call your dealer and ask.
As for clay, you don't have to avoid the stripes and/or clearbra. I've used clay over my stripes several times. The clay is really not that abrasive if well lubed.
To avoid water spots while trying to get your car dry, wash in the shade when your paint is cool not hot. I know I still have issues with sections drying faster than I can get to them because of the lack of humidity here so I just keep wetting them down until I get to them. Dry a section, wet the remaining, dry a section and wet the remaining. One nice benefit with Hydro is that it helps make drying your car so much faster that you may be able to get it all dried before the last section has a chance to air dry. If your water has spotting issues check into the Mr. Clean system. I use it mainly to filter my rinse water so even if it dries before I get to it, there will be no spots.
Now how long will Epic last. I've had my current coat on since October 13th and it is still beading very well. The Hydro will help prolong the Epic so you may get as long as 6 months out of the Epic.
Finally with regards to the exterior trim. I know you said that you would like an off the shelf item but I'm going to have to recommend Wizards Black Renew from DP. I use it on my trim and tires because it removes any wax I may have gotten on the trim and because it doesn't have that nasty tawdry looking shine like the lips of a $20 hooker . Just my opinion on the vinyl and tire shine question, but shine may work for you.

 

Hope Chi-town will be on that list come summer!

 

Ah, now I understand what Mr Clean is, cartridges for your garden hose. Problem, I live in a water conservation area and washing in your driveway is not really an option. We are "highly encouraged" to use a car wash. My though is to take my buckets, fill them there and then do it by hand until it's time to rinse...then use their hose.

That said, I'm looking into doing it at home but need to make sure it isn't actually illegal.

Thanks for the help. I'm beginning to think I might actually understand the steps. Now if I can just understand the techniques to perform the steps

 

Hmmm...I don't know a lot about water conservation...but the Mr. Clean thing has an on/off switch, so you only have water running specifically when you are using it on the car. I wouldn't imagine that using a car wash would use any less water.

As far as your Hydro question...you can use it dry on the car (or if the water beads, as was your question). I actually dry my car entirely before I Hydro it because I like the extra-strengthness. But for your question, it doesn't matter...the Hydro and beaded-up water will mix together as you buff it all across the paint.

 

Thanks.

As for the car wash water thing, it's not so much the amount of water but rather where the water runoff goes (recycle versus into the desert).

 

A couple of small suggestions/changes to your proposed process. I'll refer to your numbering/lettering...

1) I would probably just do the Dawn wash. Why?

• Although there are gentler alternatives (ie, paint cleansers) and/or polishing with a PC and pad will do the trick, you've already said that you want to keep your process simple. So, Dawn keeps it simple, even if it's not the absolute safest and effective way. It's plenty safe enough when not done frequently and is effective enough.
• More and more dealers are using synthetics in their new car prep detailing bays. However, the synthetics they use are very cheap and not durable at all. So, the Dawn will strip carnauba wax if that's what they used and it will likely strip whatever (if any) small amount of the poor quality synthetic if that's what they used.

3) Go ahead and clay stripes and bras. Just be sure to use ample lube spray and use a slightly softer hand when rubbing. Not only is it safe to clay these areas, they could probably use the "clay love" too!

4) Omit this step. You don't need to re-wash after claying and before you wax. Clay lube sprays have gentle cleaners in them, so in a way you're prepping the surface for the wax when claying. Plus there is nothing in lube spray which will inhibit the wax from bonding properly to your paint.

5) I always push for the longest wait time possible before you buff off Epic. If it's cold, then even longer. For some, like OctaneGuy, there just isn't enough time to wait much longer than the minimum and that's ok. For them it's worth the slight decrease in durability because they have to keep moving along. For most hobbyists, you might as well wait a few minutes longer and get the extra durability benefit (in other words, you'll likely get a slightly better bond if you wait longer).
In fact, if you have the time to wait even an hour or so, all the better. Ultimately, it depends on the temperature and humidity... cold & humid = longer wait time warm & dry = shorter wait time. You honestly can't wait too long either... we've left Epic on until the next day and it's just fine and definitely ready when it doubt!
Last, you'd want to buff off Epic with a Platinum or Monster Fluffy (or similar style).

b) I don't use a blade to dry when I use Hydro. Functionally, it doesn't matter much. In other words, the Hydro will perform well with or without it. But since the blade is an extra step for little gain, IMO at least, I just spray on Hydro right after rinsing and then dry with my waffle-weave towel. Totally preference, but again, I'm trying to focus on keeping it simple for you.

Re: Durability of Epic. Indeed, you some intense sun there! Here in Denver we have it pretty intense too. We test for durability in many different parts of the country, but here too of course. On our daily driver tester, which sits for 8-12 hours every day in a wide-open parking lot all summer long, we've seen a full 6 months of protection. Some Slick or Hydro from time to time will give it an aesethic boost after a month or two, but the protection/beading will remain for several months.
Note: Epic's durability can be affected by improperly prepped paint. For example, if a car hasn't been paint cleansed (or Dawn washed), and/or clayed, and/or polished in a long time, (just washed then waxed)- then Epic may not bond as well to the paint. Too much gunk buildup on the paint.

Re: Hydro application. Hydro works well on either a wet or dry surface. It's just a convenience that it's super-concentrated and can thus be used on a wet surface while you dry. So, you can use Hydro on all of the scenarios you asked about.

Hope that helps! I'm around all day tomorrow so ask away if you have more questions that I could help with.

-Heather

 

I blade the water off just so I don't go through so many towels. I have like 7,000 Monster Fluffies, but only 3 waffle weave. Guess that's what I buy when I come in this week to get my free bottle of Mystique!
Glad you're back Heather!

 

I'll second that. I am in Ohio and i would gladly make a day trip up there for a seminar.