Detailing 101 Need to find out how to pamper your new MINI? Find out all the detailing secrets here.

Please help a newbie with basic regimen

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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 06:36 AM
  #1  
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Please help a newbie with basic regimen

Hi, I just got my shiny new astro black MCSa a few days ago (woohoo!) and want to keep him clean.

I am one of those people who washed my previous car once in awhile, usually at one of those do-it-yourself places with recycled water. Waxing was not something I ever did. My interior products were Armour-all and glass cleaner.

I have seen the light. I have read a lot on this forum and am having trouble sorting out all the info. Please help me with a basic, quick plan for detailing. I don't have a lot of spare time, but am willing to devote some time each week. I drive my car every day and have to park it outdoors. Right now I find myself polishing up the chrome with a microfiber every morning

So far I have purchased a Macquire's kit including Quick Detail interior spray, QD exterior spray, car wash, a scratchy sponge, and something they call a quick wax/polish that I am hesitant to use. I also have various microfiber cloths and a pack of cotton cloths. What else do I need and how do I use it?

Thank you, and my MINI thanks you too!
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 06:40 AM
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Congratulations on your new car... you're gonna love it!!
Best thing you could do for your car... find an indoor parking place.
It's amazing how much dirt falls from the sky.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 06:41 AM
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There really is no simple answer.
Start reading more from this forum and get the detailing DVD offered in the NAM store.
It is not very hard, but like life there are many problems and different solutions for each.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 07:04 AM
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Meguiar's is not the worst product you could use, but I would stay away from their quick wax. On black, that will just cloud and leave swirl marks. It sounds like your intensions are good, but now like you said, you just need a good detailing schedule. It sounds funny to say, but for new folks, it is good to have.

Many people will suggest other brands to use, I would tell you to use Griots. Just know that there isn't such a thing a "quick waxing." And although some of us do wax more than needed (myself included) you really on need to wax about every quarter.

So what I would suggest, first make a schedule, either before or after work when you get home would be best. Dedicate even just 15 mins a day to a quick pick up. Plan on never leaving anything in your Cooper. Food (personal I don't eat in my MINI), garbage, even change of clothes. Stuff like that can smell up your MINI quick, and it can prove to be a tough smell to get out. Keep a small kit of window cleaner, speed shine, a dust cloth (like a swiffer), and some micro rags, or even good cloth diapers. It's nice to have some kind of a dusting cloth for keeping lint and funk off your dash, shifter, radio, and the rest of the interior. Keep the speed shine handy for bird droppings, tar, and other road muck. Get that stuff off quick! Windex is the same for the windows and also works well on the wheels, not tyres. Remember use a separate rag on your wheels. Don't worry about your Cooper getting dirty, that's gonna happen, but get this bits and funk off quickly.

Lastly once your paint is at least 90 days old, plan to spend at least 4 hours waxing. If your Cooper is still pretty new you won't need to use a clay bar or paint cleaner. If not consider the following steps...

Wash, again Meguair's makes a great gold class car wash, not my first choice, but still good. Other people like to use dish washing solution for the first wash thinking it will take old wax off, but I would stay the heck away from that. Lots of salt in dish washing solution.

Once dry, if needed clean with either a clay bar, or use Meguair's Step 1 paint cleaner. Good stuff. Do all the panels and top. Follow the directions on the bottle. Should take about an hour.

Polish, on a dark car this IMO is a must, again Meguair's Step 2 car Polish is a good product. You could also use their gold medal polish, or the NXT polish. Same as the cleaner, apply, dry to haze, polish off. Polishing takes a micro thin layer of your finish off, so only do this about once per year.

Then Wax. Same as about. Meguar's Gold Medal car wax is a good product. This is when it's ok to use the funny yellow sponge that comes with the wax. It actually helps to put a nice even coat on. If this is your first time, I would recommend doing it twice.

So, in short, make a plan, make a small kit to keep in the car, set aside some time for your first good wax. If you only wash about once every two weeks, the wax will last about 3 months. Maybe. More importantly though is if you start with a good base, then it makes it easier to apply more coats in a month or so. It sounds like you have bought some products, but you do need some more. Again Meguair's Gold and NXT are good prodcuts, but there are better ones out their. But they also cost more.

This of course is just my suggestions for a wax plan for you, I am sure you will get lots more. Good luck.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 07:15 AM
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I would love to hear someone's "schedule" using the Prima products.... anyone out there??
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by vestanpance
I would love to hear someone's "schedule" using the Prima products.... anyone out there??
Camminich outlined a nice general process, in which you could mix and match other brands if you like.

Specific to the question above, here's what you would do using the Prima line:

1) Wash w/ Prima Mystique, a wool wash mitt, bucket (or 2), and a waffle-weave drying towel (or 2). Handwashing is particularly important before the rest of this process because it's the best way to fully remove all the dirt and gunk before you start rubbing on the paint alot. (note: especially for this first wash, I wouldn't be too picky on the type/brand of soap. Any reputable name brand car soap will do. Then, Mystique is nice for all future washes because it adds a little shine each time you wash.)
Also, as already noted, be sure to have a separate set of cloths, towels, etc for your wheels/tires.

2)Prima Clay. This is an optional step because it depends on whether or not it's needed. Most new cars (and certainly most not-so-new cars) do need to be clayed, but I have seen some which don't. To test, take a small sandwich "baggie," put your hand in it, and gently glide your fingers over the surface while in the baggie. (note: do this only on a clean surface or you could scratch the paint!) If it feels rough, it needs to be clayed. If it feels smooth, it does not need to be clayed. I've been surprised at how many new cars need to be clayed, but it is really case-by-case. For more clay info, including how to do it, click on this article: All About Clay.

3) Prima Amigo. (I'm assuming everything will be done by hand here...) Amigo by hand is a chemical polish (aka non-abrasive polish). It is a paint cleanser and filler/concealer. As camminich mentioned, there isn't a critical need for true paint cleansing on many new cars, but, like clay, it's hard to tell for sure if it needs it or not. Either way, I'd still paint cleanse... Amigo's cleansers will help prep the paint for a better wax bond in your next step. A better bond means better durability and protection from your wax. Amigo's fillers/concealers are important for a black car. No matter how good of shape its in, it's likely that it's not perfect. As we all know, an even slightly imperfect black will show everything! Amigo's fillers/concealers will even out the surface and hide some of these fine imperfections, enhancing the final look of your wax.

To use Amigo, simply pour a very small amount on an applicator pad (usually a microfiber covered sponge or a cotton covered sponge). Wipe on, panel by panel and buff off, panel by panel, using a plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum. (or you can apply to the entire car then buff off... it doesn't matter) The more you work it as you wipe it on, the more the cleansers will work. This can be a quick or long step, depending on how much cleansing you want to get out of it.

note: You could use Prima Finish or Prima Swirl before Amigo if you feel an abrasive is necessary. However, by hand, the improvements will be minor. It also depends on how long of a day you want to do all this! It will already be a verrry long day! Please let me know if you want me to elaborate on the specifics of using abrasives on a black car by hand and/or with a polisher.

4) Prima Epic. Epic is an extremely durable synthetic wax, which gives a glossy wet-look. It tends to be a favorite synthetic wax for owners of black cars. Durability is 5-6 months on daily drivers. Although it is advised to avoid getting Epic on your exterior plastic trim, it wipes off easily (try not to let it sit on the trim for very long) with a damp cloth.

To use Epic, pour a very small amount on an applicator pad and apply panel by panel. Epic works best applied very thin. For a MINI, 1 oz (a couple of tablespoons) is plenty for the whole car. Apply Epic to the entire car and allow it to dry for 35-45 minutes (or longer if more convenient, up to 6 hours or so). Then, buff off with a plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum. Avoid washing the car after applying Epic for the next 24 hours (to allow it to fully cure).

5) Wheel Shield or Prima Epic for your wheels. Waxing your wheels with a durable synthetic will prevent brake dust from building up as quickly and will make cleaning your wheels in the future considerably easier to do. If you already have Epic, you can just wax your wheels with Epic, using the same app technique as above. Or, you can wax with Wheel Shield. Wheel Shield has the added benefit of cleansers which help get those last few stubborn spots off the wheels. Also, Wheel Shield is the most durable wheel wax we know of, due to its significant heat resistance.

6) Prima Nero. Nero can be used on all interior and exterior vinyl, plastic and rubber, including the dash, trim (in and out), tires. It leaves a matte finish and not that shiney oily gunk that others do (like Armour All! ). Some people pre-treat their exterior trim with Nero before waxing to help with wax residue removal should they get wax on the trim and don't wipe it off right away. Nero has UV inhibitors which help prevent color fading and off-gassing (the production of that cloudly film that builds up on the inside of your windshield).

7) Prima Clarity and the DP Microfiber Glass Cloth. For windscreens and glass of course! Clarity is tint-safe and very effective. The cloth is completely lint free and boosts the cleaning power of the Clarity.


For ongoing maintenance, I would also suggest having a few key tools onboard or on hand. Prima Slick is a quick detail spray which is great to have on hand for "emergency" bird dropping removal or water spot removal. Slick can be used with any plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum.

Hydro or Slick can be used for the occasional shine and sprucing up of the paint, as well as to add a little additional protection from time to time. Hydro is more of a spray wax, so it has more wax and less cleaners. Slick has more cleaners and less wax. Both leave a glossy, super-slick finish. Hydro also adds some warmth and depth (especially on black!).

Many of camminich's other suggestions are good too, but I won't repeat them. I think my post is long enough at this point!

-Heather
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 10:03 AM
  #7  
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The Prima package from Coopersport.com includes everything you need. I think the towels are as important as the product, especially with a black car. Everytime you touch it you risk scratching it. The shine with all the Prima products really makes your cooper stand out.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 10:21 AM
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hi twinkletoes... congrats on your new MINI! you're going to love it.

first of all, i'm a total detailing newbie like you... never took much care of my previous cars besides occasional car washes and vacuums. now, i want it to look great all the time. i'm finding that in addition the more time I spend with the car detailing it, the more I learn about it and appreciate it... okay, that sounds strange, but it's true! I just need more time to do it.

great that you have some Meguiar's already... that's where I started because it is easy to buy it locally. and not to put Meguiar's down, but you should definitely consider the Prima line from Detailer's Paradise for future detailing. i have no connection to Detailer's Paradise, but so far, I have used Prima Clarity, Nero and Slick and they are great. You can see my short review here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=86495

I am crazy about Clarity, and I am sure the more I use Slick and Nero, the more I will like them, too. I will be trying out Epic this weekend (hopefully) and will write more about that.

Also, the Monster Fluffy and Waffle Weave towels are a must, must, must buy. Great products.

And the support you get from Heather is the best. Doubtful you'll find anyone from Meguiar's willing to talk you through everything the way she is (and probably no one as knowledgeable). Griot's has some support, but you'll probably never talk to the same person twice.

That's my 2 cents. Good luck... there are a lot of knowledgeable people in this forum!
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 10:25 AM
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heather is a walking encyclopedia.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 10:33 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by mini_dreams
And the support you get from Heather is the best. Doubtful you'll find anyone from Meguiar's willing to talk you through everything the way she is (and probably no one as knowledgeable). Griot's has some support, but you'll probably never talk to the same person twice.

That's my 2 cents. Good luck... there are a lot of knowledgeable people in this forum!
Originally Posted by kenchan
heather is a walking encyclopedia.
Aw shucks you guys... Thanks for the kudos! Really though, you should try talking to Nick (also here at DP, for those who don't know that) if you think I know stuff. He is the real encyclopedia!

By the way, you can always ask for me or Nick by name if you call. We're almost always around and always willing and eager to talk to you if we are there. Plus, one of us almost always answers the phones anyway! You may get Blake or John, but both of them are very knowledgable too. (but they don't mind if you ask for someone else either!) Like I said though, you're likely to get Nick or I on the first try anyway. It's honestly really fun talking to you guys! That's what we're here for! (plus it gets me out of some of the less exciting things I have to do every day! )

-Heather
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 10:40 AM
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To me the most important starter items are a good carsoap, a good quality wash mitt, & microfiber towels for drying. Don't get any washing or drying products/towels that will scratch your finish. Also for the interior think of 303 Aerospace protectant as your new Armour-all. It's great for cleaning & protecting your seats (if they are leatherette) & your dash, etc...

Some are more **** than others about their detailing processes. Where you fall is up to you. I fall on the lesser-**** end of the scale. I wash my Mini weekly, interior detail biweekly(ish), & do a full detail/clay/polish/wax job 2 times a year. You have plenty of time to wade through all the threads on this product vs that product before it's time for a thorough waxing
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Detailers Paradise
(plus it gets me out of some of the less exciting things I have to do every day! )

-Heather
is that to push Nick to do more less exciting work to
make up for the overtime you put in the last couple of
weeks?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 10:53 AM
  #13  
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one more thing:

re: claying a new car. as some have said, may not be necessary, but as others have said, it can't hurt.

I clayed my car after about a week of ownership (prior to putting on my first Meguiar's NXT wax... before I decided to go the Epic route). Claying is a bit intensive the first time you do it (at least for me), but SO, SO worth it. The finish was so smooth... like glass and it is stil very smooth even now, almost 6 weeks later.

Doubtful new car paint is that dirty, but consider there is a lot of transit between the factory and you and lots of chances for contaminants (rail dust, sea salt, truck and road grime, etc.). Also, the more you can clean the paint before you put a nice coat of wax on, the better it will adhere and look... IMHO.

oh, and I bought Meguair's Smooth Surface Clay Kit to do this, which you can buy in most auto parts stores. It includes their Quik Detailer, 2 bars of clay and a Microfiber towel (plus some Cleaner Wax, which I haven't used... anyone?). I will probably use the rest of the clay I have, but with Prima Slick detailer next time.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 11:38 AM
  #14  
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I've had VERY good luck with a simple regime:

START: Assuming the car is brand new w/ no swirlies to buff out or other gunk - wash the car (including the rims) and dry, then run the clay bar over the paint, just to see how slick you can get the paint to begin with. Since the paint is (theoretically) new without any serious road gunk to scrape out of the clear coat, this should take about an hour, give or take.

Then, apply a coat of Detailers Paradise Epic wax. Use only a few teaspoons'-worth for the entire car. Allow the wax to cure for about an hour, until it's powdery-white. A fingertip dragged through the wax should leave a shiny clean spot - it it smears let it keep curing. Wipe away the residue (should be very easy to wipe away totally by hand if properly cured).

NOTE: if you really want to be tricky, use the clay bar and Epic wax on the painted surfaces of the engine bay as well as on the rims. This isn't necessary by any means, but it DOES make keeping the engine bay and rims clean a LOT easier and only adds about 15-20 minutes to the initial detail process. If this sems scarily **** to you, feel free to skip it.

While the wax is curing, use an interior detail spray (I use DP Nero) to treat all the interior vinyl. SPray the Nero on a cloth and use it like a dusting polish - you don't need a huge ammount.

The trim can be wiped down with Wizard's Black Renew or with more Nero. Use vinyl treatment early and often, to kep it black - both products have UV protectants.

Apply a secind coat of Epic wax in 24-48 hours - 2 coats should be plenty.

After this, all you need to do is take about 15 minutes 1-2 times a week (depending on the weather) to wipe the car down with Slick detailing spray and a quick swipe with Nero on the trim. I run a California Car Duster over the car before detail spraying, to remove the bigger "dirt chunks". Save the front and rear bumpers for last (they get the dirtiest by far), after the bonnet and side panels/doors. I do the windows with DP Clarity after the trim - takes about 5 minutes, tops if you do it every week I find. I wash the rims as needed - about every other week. Even with this "minimal" cleaning (compared to some other people here, anyway), I still get people asking me all the time if my car is brand new or not (it was bought back in June).

NOTE - I store my car overnight in a garage but it's out all day in a parking lot. If you park ourside at night you may need to detail spray the car more often.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 01:41 PM
  #15  
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Thanks everybody! This sounds do-able. Right away, I can start wiping down my car every time I come home. I have no choice about parking outdoors during the day, but the MINI goes into my garage at night.

I've only spent about 20 bucks on the Meguair's kit (probably their least expensive line of products) so maybe I'll just use it up or even ditch it and go with better products, if that's what I need to do. Anybody else want to weigh in on what I need to buy before I part with my hard-earned money?

Thanks again.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 01:58 PM
  #16  
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Twinkletoes - if you don't have a shelf full of current and past products; you're not a real detailing enthusiast.
I never throw anything away, but really why am I keeping the Armour All?
Have fun, enjoy your time with your MINI and don't stress - you can't break it.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 03:48 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by kenchan
is that to push Nick to do more less exciting work to
make up for the overtime you put in the last couple of
weeks?
That's right!! He has more of the fun things on his plate than I do... sniff, sniff. Actually, he also put in mega hours in the last couple of weeks. It's bonkers for both of us right now! No one is spared.


-Heather
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 04:03 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by MiniMaybee
Twinkletoes -
Have fun, enjoy your time with your MINI and don't stress - you can't break it.
I agree! It can be overwhelming when you read through the threads on this forum. There are lots of fun options and trying different things is really part of the fun.

You really can't go wrong with just about anything... I mean, you can't break it, just like MiniMaybee said. Any of the few things you can do to it "wrong" can be fixed anyway, so don't stress it!

As you learn, probably the most important point is to not touch your paint (with your hand, a cloth, or anything) when its dirty. There are ways to "dust" it when its truly "dusty", but washing it with soap and water is the only thing you should do once its actually dirty (handwashing whenever possible).

Other than that, the rest you will learn. You'll also figure out which products and what brands you like best. Some people like to stick with only one brand for every product, while others like to mix and match from various brands. (in some cases it's good to stick to a family of products, but usually it doesn't matter)

Most importantly, have fun with it! And just keep asking questions. There is a ton of good info and knowledge on this forum. I'm personally available by phone, email or PM too. (although I am WAY behind on PM replies right now... but catching up!)

Happy detailing!

-Heather
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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Here's what I did when I brought Foamy home in late July:

(Mine came from dealer with no wax job per my request. If yours is waxed, you may need a hot water & Dawn dish-soap washing to remove wax to allow sealant to stick.)

Wash, using car-soap and the cleanest softest mitt you can find. Dry with microfiber towel. For the new-car session I guessed it was mostly clean so I didn't bother with claybar.

Applied Klasse Sealant Glaze with MF wax applicator. Let dry a few minutes. Wipe down with a cloth that is very very slightly damp. Buff. Wait until the next day and do it again. Apparently synthetic waxes (like KSG or its Zaino or Prima counterparts) take a few hours to cure/harden to their full performance. If you apply another coat or wax immediately you might end up wiping off what you just put on.

I'll echo Heather's warning about rubbing a dirty car. If you have to drive between sealant/wax applications, be sure the car is clean before applying/buffing-out the next step. Always keep your goal in mind-- a shiny ten year old MINI with maybe a few rock chips touched up but zero swirl marks or scratches!

Wait another day then use painter's tape to tape off the black plastic bits and wax it. Buff it. Buff it some more. Buff it all night. Take it to work and show everyone the shiny new toy. Fill in the ample free time by doing the plastic (inside & out) with UV-resistant/cleaner such as 303 or its Prima counterpart, and doing the seats with the leather-protector/conditioner of your choice.

You are very lucky-- although it will show dust a bit faster, a black car is going to reward your polishing/sealing/waxing/buffing efforts far more than any other color. If you live in a dry climate, be sure to get a California Duster. They are great for the daily dust-removal right before you QD. My wife's black S60 looks like doo-doo after a dust storm, but is spectacular after a good washing & shining up.

--doug
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 04:41 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Detailers Paradise
Camminich outlined a nice general process, in which you could mix and match other brands if you like.

Specific to the question above, here's what you would do using the Prima line:

1) Wash w/ Prima Mystique, a wool wash mitt, bucket (or 2), and a waffle-weave drying towel (or 2). Handwashing is particularly important before the rest of this process because it's the best way to fully remove all the dirt and gunk before you start rubbing on the paint alot. (note: especially for this first wash, I wouldn't be too picky on the type/brand of soap. Any reputable name brand car soap will do. Then, Mystique is nice for all future washes because it adds a little shine each time you wash.)
Also, as already noted, be sure to have a separate set of cloths, towels, etc for your wheels/tires.

2)Prima Clay. This is an optional step because it depends on whether or not it's needed. Most new cars (and certainly most not-so-new cars) do need to be clayed, but I have seen some which don't. To test, take a small sandwich "baggie," put your hand in it, and gently glide your fingers over the surface while in the baggie. (note: do this only on a clean surface or you could scratch the paint!) If it feels rough, it needs to be clayed. If it feels smooth, it does not need to be clayed. I've been surprised at how many new cars need to be clayed, but it is really case-by-case. For more clay info, including how to do it, click on this article: All About Clay.

3) Prima Amigo. (I'm assuming everything will be done by hand here...) Amigo by hand is a chemical polish (aka non-abrasive polish). It is a paint cleanser and filler/concealer. As camminich mentioned, there isn't a critical need for true paint cleansing on many new cars, but, like clay, it's hard to tell for sure if it needs it or not. Either way, I'd still paint cleanse... Amigo's cleansers will help prep the paint for a better wax bond in your next step. A better bond means better durability and protection from your wax. Amigo's fillers/concealers are important for a black car. No matter how good of shape its in, it's likely that it's not perfect. As we all know, an even slightly imperfect black will show everything! Amigo's fillers/concealers will even out the surface and hide some of these fine imperfections, enhancing the final look of your wax.

To use Amigo, simply pour a very small amount on an applicator pad (usually a microfiber covered sponge or a cotton covered sponge). Wipe on, panel by panel and buff off, panel by panel, using a plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum. (or you can apply to the entire car then buff off... it doesn't matter) The more you work it as you wipe it on, the more the cleansers will work. This can be a quick or long step, depending on how much cleansing you want to get out of it.

note: You could use Prima Finish or Prima Swirl before Amigo if you feel an abrasive is necessary. However, by hand, the improvements will be minor. It also depends on how long of a day you want to do all this! It will already be a verrry long day! Please let me know if you want me to elaborate on the specifics of using abrasives on a black car by hand and/or with a polisher.

4) Prima Epic. Epic is an extremely durable synthetic wax, which gives a glossy wet-look. It tends to be a favorite synthetic wax for owners of black cars. Durability is 5-6 months on daily drivers. Although it is advised to avoid getting Epic on your exterior plastic trim, it wipes off easily (try not to let it sit on the trim for very long) with a damp cloth.

To use Epic, pour a very small amount on an applicator pad and apply panel by panel. Epic works best applied very thin. For a MINI, 1 oz (a couple of tablespoons) is plenty for the whole car. Apply Epic to the entire car and allow it to dry for 35-45 minutes (or longer if more convenient, up to 6 hours or so). Then, buff off with a plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum. Avoid washing the car after applying Epic for the next 24 hours (to allow it to fully cure).

5) Wheel Shield or Prima Epic for your wheels. Waxing your wheels with a durable synthetic will prevent brake dust from building up as quickly and will make cleaning your wheels in the future considerably easier to do. If you already have Epic, you can just wax your wheels with Epic, using the same app technique as above. Or, you can wax with Wheel Shield. Wheel Shield has the added benefit of cleansers which help get those last few stubborn spots off the wheels. Also, Wheel Shield is the most durable wheel wax we know of, due to its significant heat resistance.

6) Prima Nero. Nero can be used on all interior and exterior vinyl, plastic and rubber, including the dash, trim (in and out), tires. It leaves a matte finish and not that shiney oily gunk that others do (like Armour All! ). Some people pre-treat their exterior trim with Nero before waxing to help with wax residue removal should they get wax on the trim and don't wipe it off right away. Nero has UV inhibitors which help prevent color fading and off-gassing (the production of that cloudly film that builds up on the inside of your windshield).

7) Prima Clarity and the DP Microfiber Glass Cloth. For windscreens and glass of course! Clarity is tint-safe and very effective. The cloth is completely lint free and boosts the cleaning power of the Clarity.


For ongoing maintenance, I would also suggest having a few key tools onboard or on hand. Prima Slick is a quick detail spray which is great to have on hand for "emergency" bird dropping removal or water spot removal. Slick can be used with any plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum.

Hydro or Slick can be used for the occasional shine and sprucing up of the paint, as well as to add a little additional protection from time to time. Hydro is more of a spray wax, so it has more wax and less cleaners. Slick has more cleaners and less wax. Both leave a glossy, super-slick finish. Hydro also adds some warmth and depth (especially on black!).

Many of camminich's other suggestions are good too, but I won't repeat them. I think my post is long enough at this point!

-Heather
Heather ... I am NOT being disrespectful at all here but just think its so funny that a "basic Regime" is so long!!!

I hate to see the "Advance Regime!"

To the OP, read https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=37303

Agranger's bible
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 04:48 PM
  #21  
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Prima Car Care
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From: Denver, CO
Originally Posted by chows4us
Heather ... I am NOT being disrespectful at all here but just think its so funny that a "basic Regime" is so long!!!

I hate to see the "Advance Regime!"

To the OP, read https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=37303

Agranger's bible
LOL

I think that my suggested process is not long at all... it's that I'm long-winded!! Just ask my husband... I can make any short story long.

Seriously, I probably should've just listed the process and left out the product/tool descriptions. That's what really did it. (I'm trying to make an excuse for being so long-winded!! LOL)

Now Agranger's bible is reaaally long! Puts me to shame. Lots of good stuff though.

-Heather
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 04:58 PM
  #22  
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Prima Car Care
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From: Denver, CO
Originally Posted by chows4us
Heather ... I am NOT being disrespectful at all here but just think its so funny that a "basic Regime" is so long!!!

I hate to see the "Advance Regime!"
To humor chows4us , here's a simple version of a Prima "basic regime":

1) Wash w/ Prima Mystique, a wool wash mitt, bucket (or 2), and a waffle-weave drying towel (or 2).

2) Prima Clay. For more clay info, including how to do it, click on this article: All About Clay.

3) Prima Amigo "cleanser/polish/pre-wax/glaze-sort-of-thing," buffing off with the Monster or the Platinum cloth. Note: You could use Prima Finish or Prima Swirl before Amigo if you feel an abrasive is necessary.

4) Prima Epic wax, buffing off with the Monster or the Platinum cloth. Avoid washing the car after applying Epic for the next 24 hours (to allow it to fully cure).

5) Wheel Shield or Prima Epic for waxing your wheels.

6) Prima Nero on all interior and exterior vinyl, plastic and rubber, including the dash, trim (in and out), tires.

7) Prima Clarity and the DP Microfiber Glass Cloth. For windscreens and glass of course!

For ongoing needs:
Prima Slick with the Monster or the Platinum MF cloth for "emergency" bird dropping removal or water spot removal.

Prima Hydro or Slick can be used for the occasional shine and sprucing up of the paint, as well as to add a little additional protection from time to time.


How's that for brief? (probably still not as brief as others could do... it's hard for me to be brief! )
Just don't challenge me on the "advanced regime"... you haven't seen anything yet! LOL

-Heather
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 05:20 PM
  #23  
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chows4us
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Joined: May 2005
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Originally Posted by Detailers Paradise
To humor chows4us , here's a simple version of a Prima "basic regime":

1) Wash w/ Prima Mystique, a wool wash mitt, bucket (or 2), and a waffle-weave drying towel (or 2).

2) Prima Clay. For more clay info, including how to do it, click on this article: All About Clay.

3) Prima Amigo "cleanser/polish/pre-wax/glaze-sort-of-thing," buffing off with the Monster or the Platinum cloth. Note: You could use Prima Finish or Prima Swirl before Amigo if you feel an abrasive is necessary.

4) Prima Epic wax, buffing off with the Monster or the Platinum cloth. Avoid washing the car after applying Epic for the next 24 hours (to allow it to fully cure).

5) Wheel Shield or Prima Epic for waxing your wheels.

6) Prima Nero on all interior and exterior vinyl, plastic and rubber, including the dash, trim (in and out), tires.

7) Prima Clarity and the DP Microfiber Glass Cloth. For windscreens and glass of course!

For ongoing needs:
Prima Slick with the Monster or the Platinum MF cloth for "emergency" bird dropping removal or water spot removal.

Prima Hydro or Slick can be used for the occasional shine and sprucing up of the paint, as well as to add a little additional protection from time to time.


How's that for brief? (probably still not as brief as others could do... it's hard for me to be brief! )
Just don't challenge me on the "advanced regime"... you haven't seen anything yet! LOL

-Heather
LOL

Brief to me is:
  • Turn on the water
  • wash the car
  • spray off the soap


Or better yet

Drive to Joe's Detailers 'R Us
Drop off car
Pick up car
 
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Old Dec 16, 2006 | 09:18 AM
  #24  
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Prima Car Care
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From: Denver, CO
Originally Posted by chows4us
LOL

Brief to me is:
  • Turn on the water
  • wash the car
  • spray off the soap


Or better yet

Drive to Joe's Detailers 'R Us
Drop off car
Pick up car
Yeah, yeah, yeah...

-Heather
 
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 08:01 AM
  #25  
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Twinkletoes
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 50
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From: Atlanta, GA
Hi all! I washed my car this weekend. Pics are in my gallery. Not too bad for a first try, if I do say so myself! Of course, my car should look great since it's new

I washed with a soft cloth and Mequiar's car soap, doing the rims last (and boy were they dirty!). Then used a non-ammonia glass cleaner and ICE all over. I chose ICE because I could run out to local store and pick it up. I know it's not the best, but I had to have something. And I liked not having to tape off the plastic parts. The whole process took less than two hours, including vacuuming, hooking up garden hose, etc. Now I'm ready to step it up a notch and try some better products.

Thanks again everybody. I avoided some critical mistakes due to the great info on this forum. Did not use regular glass cleaner! Did not get white wax all over the plastic parts! Did not make swirlies with a scratchy sponge! Thanks!
 
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