Please help a newbie with basic regimen
6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Somewhere west
Banned
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,759
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From: Denver, CO
So from me, just ditto on everything they already recommended and advised. 
As for the new question of hand application, I'd say the answer is that it depends on which product you're talking about and, in the case of Amigo, what you what to get out of the product.
Amigo by hand limits its capabilities just a slight bit by decreasing its hardcore cleansing ability and removes the super, super fine finishing abrasive. However, not to worry! Amigo applied by hand still offers lots of great pre-wax benefits. It will still fill and conceal minor imperfections quite well and will also cleanse the paint well to prepare it for wax (read: ultimately improve your wax-paint bond). In summary, Amigo is a great paint cleanser and filler/concealer when applied by hand. Amigo is an even better paint cleanser & filler/concealer and also turns Amigo into a super-fine finishing abrasive. The machine just beefs it up a notch. Either way will get you an improved result... it'll just vary by degree of improvement.
Epic by hand yields identical results as when applied by machine. The only benefit to a machine application of Epic is in the application itself- the machine makes it a little easier to apply nice and thin and evenly. It's really not a big deal at all though. Epic by hand is essentially equal to Epic by machine.
I hope that helps!
-Heather
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 16
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From: Nashville
I hope this is not going too far off topic.
I have a Union Jack flag decal on my roof and wanted some advice on how to clay it/over it and clean/wax/polish it or whatever needs to be done.
I just placed my first order with DP and I think it arrived today (according to DHL tracking) so I am going to be putting these tips to good use over the coming weeks.
Thanks for all the info in the thread, btw.
I guess my questions break down like this:
Should I clay the decal?
Should I wax it?
How can I clean/protect my decal?
Cheers,
Rick
I have a Union Jack flag decal on my roof and wanted some advice on how to clay it/over it and clean/wax/polish it or whatever needs to be done.
I just placed my first order with DP and I think it arrived today (according to DHL tracking) so I am going to be putting these tips to good use over the coming weeks.
Thanks for all the info in the thread, btw.
I guess my questions break down like this:
Should I clay the decal?
Should I wax it?
How can I clean/protect my decal?
Cheers,
Rick
I don't have a full roof decal, but I have stripes and I care for them by washing them like I wash the rest of my car, and then treating with a little 303 Aerospace Protectant.
In the past I have waxed right over them, but they were starting to get a little funky/streaky looking (like there was an oily buildup on them or something), so I stripped them down and started using the 303 and they look fine now.
In the past I have waxed right over them, but they were starting to get a little funky/streaky looking (like there was an oily buildup on them or something), so I stripped them down and started using the 303 and they look fine now.
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 529
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From: Tinley Park IL, USA
Congrats on your new ride Twinkle and here's what I'd do once you've used up your exterior products:
-clay bar the paint after a good washing
-apply one coat of Klasse AIO (all in one) as this cleans and polishes the paint
-apply one coat of Klasse SG (sealant glaze) on top of your previous step
-because your car is black, apply one coat of your favorite caranuba to add depth to your paint, but wait 12 hrs after you've applied the SG, it needs time to bond.
Once you've done that just maintain w/ your Mequiars QD and you should be good for a solid 4 monthes, depending on weather and industrial conditions. I don't expect you to run out and get what I said, just telling you what I use and this is coming from someone who used to only use "M" products. Todays acrylic products like Klasse produce GREAT results w/o alot of effort like you spend with "M" products.
You don't need to clay everytime you wax, but I'd do it about 3 times a year followed by the paint cleaner/polish/sealant steps
-clay bar the paint after a good washing
-apply one coat of Klasse AIO (all in one) as this cleans and polishes the paint
-apply one coat of Klasse SG (sealant glaze) on top of your previous step
-because your car is black, apply one coat of your favorite caranuba to add depth to your paint, but wait 12 hrs after you've applied the SG, it needs time to bond.
Once you've done that just maintain w/ your Mequiars QD and you should be good for a solid 4 monthes, depending on weather and industrial conditions. I don't expect you to run out and get what I said, just telling you what I use and this is coming from someone who used to only use "M" products. Todays acrylic products like Klasse produce GREAT results w/o alot of effort like you spend with "M" products.
You don't need to clay everytime you wax, but I'd do it about 3 times a year followed by the paint cleaner/polish/sealant steps
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
I don't have a full roof decal, but I have stripes and I care for them by washing them like I wash the rest of my car, and then treating with a little 303 Aerospace Protectant.
In the past I have waxed right over them, but they were starting to get a little funky/streaky looking (like there was an oily buildup on them or something), so I stripped them down and started using the 303 and they look fine now.
In the past I have waxed right over them, but they were starting to get a little funky/streaky looking (like there was an oily buildup on them or something), so I stripped them down and started using the 303 and they look fine now.
Would you (or anyone) recommend/not recommend claying the decal? What about using a QD spray on it?
You can clay your decal with little fear. Just don't go crazy. I've also used my PC on the stripes without any issues. I did find out that Langka will remove the black from the pinstripe but that was my fault (chip was too close to the stripe).
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 321
Likes: 1
From: Eugene, Oregon
Camminich outlined a nice general process, in which you could mix and match other brands if you like.
Specific to the question above, here's what you would do using the Prima line:
1) Wash w/ Prima Mystique, a wool wash mitt, bucket (or 2), and a waffle-weave drying towel (or 2). Handwashing is particularly important before the rest of this process because it's the best way to fully remove all the dirt and gunk before you start rubbing on the paint alot. (note: especially for this first wash, I wouldn't be too picky on the type/brand of soap. Any reputable name brand car soap will do. Then, Mystique is nice for all future washes because it adds a little shine each time you wash.)
Also, as already noted, be sure to have a separate set of cloths, towels, etc for your wheels/tires.
2)Prima Clay. This is an optional step because it depends on whether or not it's needed. Most new cars (and certainly most not-so-new cars) do need to be clayed, but I have seen some which don't. To test, take a small sandwich "baggie," put your hand in it, and gently glide your fingers over the surface while in the baggie. (note: do this only on a clean surface or you could scratch the paint!) If it feels rough, it needs to be clayed. If it feels smooth, it does not need to be clayed. I've been surprised at how many new cars need to be clayed, but it is really case-by-case. For more clay info, including how to do it, click on this article: All About Clay.
3) Prima Amigo. (I'm assuming everything will be done by hand here...) Amigo by hand is a chemical polish (aka non-abrasive polish). It is a paint cleanser and filler/concealer. As camminich mentioned, there isn't a critical need for true paint cleansing on many new cars, but, like clay, it's hard to tell for sure if it needs it or not. Either way, I'd still paint cleanse... Amigo's cleansers will help prep the paint for a better wax bond in your next step. A better bond means better durability and protection from your wax. Amigo's fillers/concealers are important for a black car. No matter how good of shape its in, it's likely that it's not perfect. As we all know, an even slightly imperfect black will show everything! Amigo's fillers/concealers will even out the surface and hide some of these fine imperfections, enhancing the final look of your wax.
To use Amigo, simply pour a very small amount on an applicator pad (usually a microfiber covered sponge or a cotton covered sponge). Wipe on, panel by panel and buff off, panel by panel, using a plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum. (or you can apply to the entire car then buff off... it doesn't matter) The more you work it as you wipe it on, the more the cleansers will work. This can be a quick or long step, depending on how much cleansing you want to get out of it.
note: You could use Prima Finish or Prima Swirl before Amigo if you feel an abrasive is necessary. However, by hand, the improvements will be minor. It also depends on how long of a day you want to do all this! It will already be a verrry long day! Please let me know if you want me to elaborate on the specifics of using abrasives on a black car by hand and/or with a polisher.
4) Prima Epic. Epic is an extremely durable synthetic wax, which gives a glossy wet-look. It tends to be a favorite synthetic wax for owners of black cars. Durability is 5-6 months on daily drivers. Although it is advised to avoid getting Epic on your exterior plastic trim, it wipes off easily (try not to let it sit on the trim for very long) with a damp cloth.
To use Epic, pour a very small amount on an applicator pad and apply panel by panel. Epic works best applied very thin. For a MINI, 1 oz (a couple of tablespoons) is plenty for the whole car. Apply Epic to the entire car and allow it to dry for 35-45 minutes (or longer if more convenient, up to 6 hours or so). Then, buff off with a plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum. Avoid washing the car after applying Epic for the next 24 hours (to allow it to fully cure).
5) Wheel Shield or Prima Epic for your wheels. Waxing your wheels with a durable synthetic will prevent brake dust from building up as quickly and will make cleaning your wheels in the future considerably easier to do. If you already have Epic, you can just wax your wheels with Epic, using the same app technique as above. Or, you can wax with Wheel Shield. Wheel Shield has the added benefit of cleansers which help get those last few stubborn spots off the wheels. Also, Wheel Shield is the most durable wheel wax we know of, due to its significant heat resistance.
6) Prima Nero. Nero can be used on all interior and exterior vinyl, plastic and rubber, including the dash, trim (in and out), tires. It leaves a matte finish and not that shiney oily gunk that others do (like Armour All!
). Some people pre-treat their exterior trim with Nero before waxing to help with wax residue removal should they get wax on the trim and don't wipe it off right away. Nero has UV inhibitors which help prevent color fading and off-gassing (the production of that cloudly film that builds up on the inside of your windshield).
7) Prima Clarity and the DP Microfiber Glass Cloth. For windscreens and glass of course! Clarity is tint-safe and very effective. The cloth is completely lint free and boosts the cleaning power of the Clarity.
For ongoing maintenance, I would also suggest having a few key tools onboard or on hand. Prima Slick is a quick detail spray which is great to have on hand for "emergency" bird dropping removal or water spot removal. Slick can be used with any plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum.
Hydro or Slick can be used for the occasional shine and sprucing up of the paint, as well as to add a little additional protection from time to time. Hydro is more of a spray wax, so it has more wax and less cleaners. Slick has more cleaners and less wax. Both leave a glossy, super-slick finish. Hydro also adds some warmth and depth (especially on black!).
Many of camminich's other suggestions are good too, but I won't repeat them. I think my post is long enough at this point!
-Heather
Specific to the question above, here's what you would do using the Prima line:
1) Wash w/ Prima Mystique, a wool wash mitt, bucket (or 2), and a waffle-weave drying towel (or 2). Handwashing is particularly important before the rest of this process because it's the best way to fully remove all the dirt and gunk before you start rubbing on the paint alot. (note: especially for this first wash, I wouldn't be too picky on the type/brand of soap. Any reputable name brand car soap will do. Then, Mystique is nice for all future washes because it adds a little shine each time you wash.)
Also, as already noted, be sure to have a separate set of cloths, towels, etc for your wheels/tires.
2)Prima Clay. This is an optional step because it depends on whether or not it's needed. Most new cars (and certainly most not-so-new cars) do need to be clayed, but I have seen some which don't. To test, take a small sandwich "baggie," put your hand in it, and gently glide your fingers over the surface while in the baggie. (note: do this only on a clean surface or you could scratch the paint!) If it feels rough, it needs to be clayed. If it feels smooth, it does not need to be clayed. I've been surprised at how many new cars need to be clayed, but it is really case-by-case. For more clay info, including how to do it, click on this article: All About Clay.
3) Prima Amigo. (I'm assuming everything will be done by hand here...) Amigo by hand is a chemical polish (aka non-abrasive polish). It is a paint cleanser and filler/concealer. As camminich mentioned, there isn't a critical need for true paint cleansing on many new cars, but, like clay, it's hard to tell for sure if it needs it or not. Either way, I'd still paint cleanse... Amigo's cleansers will help prep the paint for a better wax bond in your next step. A better bond means better durability and protection from your wax. Amigo's fillers/concealers are important for a black car. No matter how good of shape its in, it's likely that it's not perfect. As we all know, an even slightly imperfect black will show everything! Amigo's fillers/concealers will even out the surface and hide some of these fine imperfections, enhancing the final look of your wax.
To use Amigo, simply pour a very small amount on an applicator pad (usually a microfiber covered sponge or a cotton covered sponge). Wipe on, panel by panel and buff off, panel by panel, using a plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum. (or you can apply to the entire car then buff off... it doesn't matter) The more you work it as you wipe it on, the more the cleansers will work. This can be a quick or long step, depending on how much cleansing you want to get out of it.
note: You could use Prima Finish or Prima Swirl before Amigo if you feel an abrasive is necessary. However, by hand, the improvements will be minor. It also depends on how long of a day you want to do all this! It will already be a verrry long day! Please let me know if you want me to elaborate on the specifics of using abrasives on a black car by hand and/or with a polisher.
4) Prima Epic. Epic is an extremely durable synthetic wax, which gives a glossy wet-look. It tends to be a favorite synthetic wax for owners of black cars. Durability is 5-6 months on daily drivers. Although it is advised to avoid getting Epic on your exterior plastic trim, it wipes off easily (try not to let it sit on the trim for very long) with a damp cloth.
To use Epic, pour a very small amount on an applicator pad and apply panel by panel. Epic works best applied very thin. For a MINI, 1 oz (a couple of tablespoons) is plenty for the whole car. Apply Epic to the entire car and allow it to dry for 35-45 minutes (or longer if more convenient, up to 6 hours or so). Then, buff off with a plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum. Avoid washing the car after applying Epic for the next 24 hours (to allow it to fully cure).
5) Wheel Shield or Prima Epic for your wheels. Waxing your wheels with a durable synthetic will prevent brake dust from building up as quickly and will make cleaning your wheels in the future considerably easier to do. If you already have Epic, you can just wax your wheels with Epic, using the same app technique as above. Or, you can wax with Wheel Shield. Wheel Shield has the added benefit of cleansers which help get those last few stubborn spots off the wheels. Also, Wheel Shield is the most durable wheel wax we know of, due to its significant heat resistance.
6) Prima Nero. Nero can be used on all interior and exterior vinyl, plastic and rubber, including the dash, trim (in and out), tires. It leaves a matte finish and not that shiney oily gunk that others do (like Armour All!
). Some people pre-treat their exterior trim with Nero before waxing to help with wax residue removal should they get wax on the trim and don't wipe it off right away. Nero has UV inhibitors which help prevent color fading and off-gassing (the production of that cloudly film that builds up on the inside of your windshield).7) Prima Clarity and the DP Microfiber Glass Cloth. For windscreens and glass of course!
Clarity is tint-safe and very effective. The cloth is completely lint free and boosts the cleaning power of the Clarity.For ongoing maintenance, I would also suggest having a few key tools onboard or on hand. Prima Slick is a quick detail spray which is great to have on hand for "emergency" bird dropping removal or water spot removal. Slick can be used with any plush microfiber cloth, like the Monster or the Platinum.
Hydro or Slick can be used for the occasional shine and sprucing up of the paint, as well as to add a little additional protection from time to time. Hydro is more of a spray wax, so it has more wax and less cleaners. Slick has more cleaners and less wax. Both leave a glossy, super-slick finish. Hydro also adds some warmth and depth (especially on black!).
Many of camminich's other suggestions are good too, but I won't repeat them. I think my post is long enough at this point!
-Heather
Ofcourse this question isn't just for Heather but also for anyone else too
Last edited by SEAL6; Apr 10, 2007 at 11:12 AM.
Banned
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,759
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From: Denver, CO
Great stuff Heather! Looks like I'll be investing in the Paradise Super Bundle soon! However I do have a question for you. Where does Klasse fit in the above regime? I noticed that your site has Klasse twins for sale, would they compliment with the bundle or replace some of the steps above?
Ofcourse this question isn't just for Heather but also for anyone else too
Ofcourse this question isn't just for Heather but also for anyone else too
They cover fairly similar steps in the process from a functional standpoint.
The main difference between using the Klasse twins instead of the Amigo/Epic combo would be in the final appearance...
On a dark color, the Klasse twins will give a highly reflective look and lots of shine but little to no depth or wetness/glossiness. (the exception being red- Klasse twins on red will offer a good bit of glossiness) On a dark color, Amigo/Epic will give lots of shine, a deep wetness, and glossiness. Although Amigo/Epic's depth is not the warm depth like that of a carnauba, it is a wet depth... it's almost as if you've added an extra layer of clearcoat thickness to the paint (if that makes sense!
).On a light color, both will give fairly similar looks. If there is a metallic flake or pearl in the light color, then the Amigo/Epic combo will pull out a little bit more of it than the Klasse twins. Overall though, the looks will be nearly the same between the two variations on light colors.
Some people have removal/buffing off trouble with the Sealant Glaze component of the Klasse twins. As long as you allow it to sit on your paint for a long time (some people will wait a full day) and you have some QD or distilled water on hand, then Sealant Glaze isn't too bad to work with.
Otherwise, the rest of the process would be the same.
-Heather
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