Detailing 101 Need to find out how to pamper your new MINI? Find out all the detailing secrets here.

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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 05:23 PM
  #51  
IowaWRX's Avatar
IowaWRX
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From: Des Moines, IA
Originally Posted by riquiscott
I waxed my wife's MINI today using the Best of Show, and I had a hard time removing it, even though I only did the hood and fenders before removing it - it wasn't like it sat there and hardened for hours or anything.

I'd find a patch that I missed, and I'd almost have to scrub at it to get it to come off. I ended up misting it with Speedshine, and it came up right away after that.

I really don't forsee using the BoS again anytime soon. I've still got almost-full bottles of Zaino and Menzerna, and I think they shine as well or better than BoS, and they're a *lot* easier to remove.

Scott
Dang, I hate to sound like a Griot's pimp...but some more tidbits I learned from their road show in Des Moines a few weeks ago...

I was left speechless at how **little** BOSW they were using to wax a panel. Just a very tiny amount was placed on the pad before applying to the car. Like the size of a quarter, and they let it sink into the pad. So there was no wax really showing on the red pad itself.

I kept thinking -- how are you getting any wax on the car? There's hardly anything on the pad! I would use like 10x that amount when I wax. But that little bit was what they recommend.

The techs were recommending that you could put on up to seven very thin layers like that without removal in between. And even after seven layers, there should be very little wax residue on the surface.

They were recommending letting the wax remain on the surface a lot longer than you normally might think. This allows all the other things to evaporate out and leaves more wax on the surface.

You found the one trick they recommended -- using Speedshine to remove any stubborn wax. Or better yet, the new Spray Wax for removal.

Very eye opening experience for me. If Griot's techs ever come to your town -- definitely go watch their demonstration.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 05:37 PM
  #52  
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ScottRiqui
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From: Norfolk, VA
Originally Posted by MLWagner79
I had a hard time with BoS the first time I used it.

Turns out I was using way, WAY too much. Once I scaled back and used much less, it came off just fine.
Thanks - I'll give it one more chance, and I'll be as sparing with the wax as I possibly can. What did you use to apply it? I used Griot's little red two-finger applicator pad. I do remember thinking that I probably had the wax on a little heavy in some spots, so I guess I just need to put a little bit on the panel and *really* spread it around with the applicator.

Scott
 
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 07:17 PM
  #53  
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i used the Griot's red pad (the 6" diameter one) on their orbital.

i make a light whirl while the orbital spins down. (power down
the orbital, put the bottle tip near the center of the pad while it's
still spinning, then lightly squeeze the bottle while you pull the
line outward into a small whirl. if the product flies off, then
obviously the pad was spinning too fast or you put too much.

that light whirl is enough to do the entire top of the door. Then
do another light whirl and do the bottom of the door. amount wise,
probably less than a nickel sized dab.

the haze is very light. I waited about 15-20min and just wiped off
using distilled water. No elbow grease. easy off.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 07:25 PM
  #54  
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From: Norfolk, VA
Originally Posted by kenchan

the haze is very light. I waited about 15-20min and just wiped off
using distilled water. No elbow grease. easy off.
I played around with it a little more just now, and I think that using the distilled water or Speedshine is going to make the biggest difference. I did consciously try to use as little wax as I possibly could, and that helped, but there were still places that I really had to work at to remove the BoS if I didn't use any water or Speedshine.

With a Pepper White car, it's hard enough to see if I missed any spots without having to worry about buffing a spot and *still* not having the wax come off.

Scott
 
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 07:35 PM
  #55  
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when you apply the wax, do you work it in over the 2x2 or
3x3 area until it has almost dissappeared? that reassures
that you have an even thin coat. i make about 5-6 passes
with the orbital which is more like 8-10x by hand, probably.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 12:53 PM
  #56  
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From: Denver, CO
Originally Posted by El_Jefe
I think I am the only one who uses their carnauba paste wax!

The carnauba paste was very unpaste like.

I got some wax below the door on the rubber. That did not come off that easy. I used griot's rubber cleaner, but I think I had to leave it on longer. That carnauba doesnt like comming off of much. It did work but I had to do it twice and rub quite a bit. I dont' tape off things. That's just not my style.
If you really like carnauba waxes but hate the trim-stain issue, you should try P21S Carnauba wax. Similarly, it is very unpaste-like for a paste wax. It's more of a silky wax bar in a jar. It does not stain any trim. We have tested this wax on just about everything out there over many, many years and have never seen it stain trim.

IMO, it's also the easiest carnauba to work with. It glides on and wipes right off. You never need a QD or distilled water while you buff it off.

P21S is also my favorite carnauba from a look standpoint on dark colors... it's very rich, warm and deep. The only downside is that it isn't as durable as some other carnaubas. I'd rank it in the middle of the carnauba durability scale. But the way I look at it, if I'm looking for durability I use a synthetic. If I'm looking for depth, I use P21S. (or I top the synthetic with the P21S for the best of both worlds.)

Last, the jar lasts forever! It takes years and years to use up a jar, even when you're applying it every month. Great stuff!

-Heather
 
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 12:31 AM
  #57  
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From: Merrick, NY
that's solid advice you dont normally get. most talk about only gloss. im anti gloss and all about depth. I think I will get some of your p21s this fall and try it against griot's carnauba paste.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 02:04 PM
  #58  
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From: Denver, CO
Originally Posted by El_Jefe
that's solid advice you dont normally get. most talk about only gloss. im anti gloss and all about depth. I think I will get some of your p21s this fall and try it against griot's carnauba paste.
I think you'll really like it, especially on a dark color like green (if I remember correctly... you have the BR Green right?). If I'm wrong and you don't like it, you can always return it. We encourage & facilitate returns if you don't like a product. To each his own when it comes to wax! And, I wouldn't hold it against you if you didn't like it. I promise!

I'm also interested to see what you think against the G's paste. I've never used their paste wax. If you get the P21S, please keep us posted on your findings!

I'm glad you appreciate depth. There are certainly all kinds of looks out there, but *I* think, at least whenever possible, depth and warmth win over all others for me. Depth is the kind of look that wins at Pebble Beach.

-Heather
 
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 06:08 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by El_Jefe
that's solid advice you dont normally get. most talk about only gloss. im anti gloss and all about depth. I think I will get some of your p21s this fall and try it against griot's carnauba paste.
For deph, look on Ebay for some Souveran if you dont mind the high price. It is also an excellent choice

As mentioned P21S cannot be touched for the price /looks ratio
 
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 06:29 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by ryanthemartini

As mentioned P21S cannot be touched for the price /looks ratio
And S100 even more so
 
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 09:43 AM
  #61  
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From: Denver, CO
Some P21S vs S100 facts...

The S100 wax is cheaper than the P21S wax. They are very similar, but each contains a slightly different formula. They are both made by the same company in Germany and are both imported by the same import company.

The S100 wax is made for motorcycles. As such, it contains slightly less carnauba than the P21S in exchange for some chemicals (I don't remember what they are off the top of my head) which increase durability. They figure that on a motorcycle you won't notice a slightly less amount of depth (the painted panels aren't large enough) and would prefer a little more durability.

The P21S wax is made for cars. As such, it contains slightly more carnauba than S100 and has slightly less durability. ...All for the opposite reasons above that I mentioned for the S100 formula (more depth is more noticable on a car, etc).

The bottom line though, is that unless you put them side-by-side on a dark color, you won't notice the difference... in depth or even durability for that matter. Their differences are very slight.

You can't go wrong with either one, but they are a wee bit different.

Hope that helps!

-Heather
 
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