1. Which offers better protection against water spots, bird droppings, etc.?

2. Are they compatible with each other (can I use an acrylic over a polymer or vice versa)?

Thanks.

 

Acrylics will offer a more durable finish. You cannot apply acrylics over polymers. I know you can apply carnuba over acrylic, but I'm unsure about polymer over acrylic.

 

Actually, Acrylics are polymers. They are just a different type. Acrylics are already crosslinked (other polymers crosslink when they mix with the air) that's why they tend to be a little more difficult to apply and wipe off. (eg. Klasse) They also tend to sheet water more than bead.

Acrylics are not better than polymers. It's like saying what's better a Buick or a Cadillac? What is better? And for what purpose? There is no answer.

You can apply a carnauba over anything. They have a more difficult time adhereing to some polymers vs acrylics due to the slickness of the polymer surface. You can apply an acrylic over a polymer, but it will degrade it since acrylics are high in solvents and have abrasives in them. (They require it to give them bite to bond to surfaces) You can apply a polymer over an acrylic as well.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I think I'll try the clay/SMR/polymer method this weekend to try to get rid of some pesky water spots on my black MCS.

I'm disappointed that the several coats of polymer I applied a few months ago didn't do much to prevent those persistent water spots.

 

I feel for you, man! Black is just horrible when it comes to avoiding water spotting. I battle it with my black roof.

Polymers are your best line of defense. There is no other coating that will retard the baking and drying of a liquid "longer" than a good polymer base. But given enough combination of time/heat/acidity it can etch into the surface. Hydroscopic (water sucking) carnauba waxes are really bad at letting it through.

Choose a more durable polymer, one that isn't laced with silicones (they break down fast and weaken the polymer to start with) and use a quality quick detailer as a booster to the wax. The QD and a quality shampoo really makes a difference in repelling spots throughout the week, I have found.

My MINI is daily driven to work by my wife and sits outside. As luck would have it lately, it gets rained on probably twice a week. Then the sun comes out. The worst scenario. The MINI is Zainoed and has no permanent spotting. I QD as necessary and shampoo weekly. No swirls, scratches or spots.

 

Well, I finally did the clay/SMR/polymer thing last weekend. The clay was pretty easy to use and it was amazing how much gunk it picked up.

I used the SMR on some water spots. Got rid of most of each spot but finally chickened out fearing I'd punch through the clear coat (there was some ominous dark residue on the microfiber cloth from the very beginning). So there are faint spots left -- this is where some experience would pay off to know how far you can safely go with the SMR. I was doing this by hand using a foam applicator. Since this 3M stuff can also be used with a motorized buffer, I suspect I could have kept going and gotten the spots completely out but they became faint enough not to risk it.

Some other spots had clearly etched the paint so I didn't bother trying to get those out.

fwiw, I've owned lots of black cars before and never had this problem.

 

SMR is very fine. You can go a long, long, long, time, even with a buffer. But glad you made some improvement!

 

Thanks for your help, Brad. I may yet go after those remaining faint spots the next time I do this a few months from now. But I must admit that seeing black residue on the wipe cloth was disconcerting! Maybe there's no clear coat on this color (jet black)...

 

^^^ Is it the actual swirl mark remover that's leaving the black on the wipe cloth? You mentioned 3M -- I'm a junkie for the stuff (thanks Ryephile! :smile: ) --it's grey. My MCS is IB and I always get some residual swirl mark remover (i.e. dark grey residue) on the wipe cloth.

 

Good point, OM Toast. Maybe that's what it is. I don't know any Mini's that aren't clear coated. (yet)

You mentioned cloth..you do apply the SMR with a pure FOAM applicator, right? That's what will give you the best results.

I bet it looks great!

 

That makes perfect sense, now that you mention it. That's why the wipe cloth had the dark residue from the very first pass.

Armed with this forehead-slapping revelation, next time I'll go after it with some real gusto! :smile:

Just to clarify... I used a foam applicator and a microfiber wipecloth. And yes, it looks fabulous!

 

LOL!!!