please recommend swirl mark remover
Mini went in for its oil change and dealer special--the application of swirls by the "pros." So I have very light swirl marks to deal with. What SMR have you been happy with?
Bird - - -
Two recommendations:
1) Tape signs to each window saying, “PLEASE do not wash or detail!” when having your car serviced.
2) I’ve tried and compared several SMRs, and 3M’s have given me the best results.
- 3M SMR for Dark Paint #39009
- 3M SMR for Light Paint #39109
They work well with either hand or dual-action orbital buffer application.
Any remaining marring can be hidden with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze #39007. This product is not UV resistant and will disappear in a few days of direct sun if not topped with a UV shield.
Two recommendations:
1) Tape signs to each window saying, “PLEASE do not wash or detail!” when having your car serviced.
2) I’ve tried and compared several SMRs, and 3M’s have given me the best results.
- 3M SMR for Dark Paint #39009
- 3M SMR for Light Paint #39109
They work well with either hand or dual-action orbital buffer application.
Any remaining marring can be hidden with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze #39007. This product is not UV resistant and will disappear in a few days of direct sun if not topped with a UV shield.
>>Mini went in for its oil change and dealer special--the application of swirls by the "pros." So I have very light swirl marks to deal with. What SMR have you been happy with?
Current favorite seems to be Menzerna Intensive polish and Final polish. Can use hand or orbital but machine much more effective for swirl marks.
J
MINIKUPA
Current favorite seems to be Menzerna Intensive polish and Final polish. Can use hand or orbital but machine much more effective for swirl marks.
J
MINIKUPA
Originally Posted by Nick_T.
2) I’ve tried and compared several SMRs, and 3M’s have given me the best results.
- 3M SMR for Dark Paint #39009
- 3M SMR for Light Paint #39109
They work well with either hand or dual-action orbital buffer application.
Any remaining marring can be hidden with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze #39007. This product is not UV resistant and will disappear in a few days of direct sun if not topped with a UV shield.
A. What's the best way to apply an SMR by hand (ie, what kind of applicator)?
B. If I want to use a clay bar also, which operation should I do first -- clay bar or SMR?
C. Is the Imperial Hand Glaze suggested instead of the usual polymer finishes or in some combination with them? (The polymers claim to fill fine scratches too...)
D. Do the usual polymer finishes provide any UV protection?
Thanks for answering any or all!
(btw, I'm trying to get rid of some water spots, not swirls...)
Last edited by 911Fan; Jul 28, 2004 at 02:02 AM.
A. By hand, apply SMR in back and forth motions only, with a pure foam applicator. Not a terry covered one. Pure foam holds the SMR in a far more even and consistant manner providing a more uniform cutting action. Terry bunches up and holds the residue in pockets. Very bad.
B. Clay first.
C. IHG is a show car product and will not improve damaged paint. It is high in oils and fillers and will TEMPORARILY hide some defects. You will be repeating the process in a week.
D. Most do, (by default) but they do not last to be of any real benefit. So when they advertise that fact they are not "technically" lying. Here's why: Most sealants on the market contain some silicone oils to give the initial application a boost in gloss. (You notice this when the fantastic shine you had on day-1 starts to dissipate on day-5) This silicone has minimal UV protection properties naturally. But the oil itself quickly washes off after a few car washes or rain storms!
Zaino, as an example, I know from talking to Sal Zaino, does actually put a UV inhibitor in as an active ingredient but is expensive to do and not a huge selling point to most people. So it may not be worth it.
B. Clay first.
C. IHG is a show car product and will not improve damaged paint. It is high in oils and fillers and will TEMPORARILY hide some defects. You will be repeating the process in a week.
D. Most do, (by default) but they do not last to be of any real benefit. So when they advertise that fact they are not "technically" lying. Here's why: Most sealants on the market contain some silicone oils to give the initial application a boost in gloss. (You notice this when the fantastic shine you had on day-1 starts to dissipate on day-5) This silicone has minimal UV protection properties naturally. But the oil itself quickly washes off after a few car washes or rain storms!
Zaino, as an example, I know from talking to Sal Zaino, does actually put a UV inhibitor in as an active ingredient but is expensive to do and not a huge selling point to most people. So it may not be worth it.
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