I just got a set of MINI stone guards (magnetic protectors that go in front of the rear wheel wells). The instructions say that the application area needs to be waxed as well as the guard itself. I assume when they say the guard too must be waxed they mean the contact side (they don't really specify). Anyone know why this would be required? It's no big deal, just wondering.

 

Yes wax the side that attached to the car. This will keep it cleaner and have less chance of dirt between the guard and the paint.
However, there is not much need for the stone guards. I had them on my car for about a year, mostly for the look, but after not having them on for about a year I don't see any need to put them back on.

 

i just bought a 06 mini s-and the area where the guards would go has a bunch of rock chips. now the car has a lot anyway so not sure what the original owner was doing--but i was thinking about getting these guards after i get the chips worked on. i was hoping these guards would protect that area--but you dont seem to feel like they were effective?

 

I have not used them for a long time and don't have a single chip where they would be. Now I don't drive anything but paved roads so if you travel on gravel roads that could make a big difference.

 

I had some of those. You need to be very careful that the paint, and the back of the guards are VERY clean. Also if water gets behind them, which it will in the rain, and then it dries, it will cloud the clear coat. I know, as this happened to me, and it took a long time with a machine to clear it up. The finale thing I did with the guards was pitch them in the trash.

Mark

 

wow that doesnt sound so good---have other people had the same experience or a solution to this issue. clearly i would rather not have more rock chips there. i think i may consider having the area covered when i do my clear bra treatment next week to the front--maybe the best solution. thanks a lot for the imput!!!

 

I have clear bra stone guards... a much better solution IMHO... invisible and trouble-free.

 

thanks--can you tell me exactly what area you covered. these black magnetic guards fit right in front of the molding that surrounds the wheel opening. in looking at my car--i have stone chips-mostly on the molding right behind where this would go-maybe they bounce off that area and hit the protruding molding--not sure--since i am new to this would appreciate hearing what you did since i am doing the clear bra work next week. thanks

 

Mine are the "standard" Xpel stone guards for the MINI - basically cover about the same area as the black magnetic ones - maybe a little larger area than that. But yes, the black trim just behind that area is really what tends to take a beating - and I don't know of anything that protects against that. If you had painted trim, you could have clearbra material custom cut for that area, but it won't work / look good on top of the black trim.

 

Wax on the back is just to make sure you don't have any grit left there that could scratch the clear coat. I take mine off everytime it's washed and then spray a little Hydro on them before they are put back on.

 

ok thanks! i think i will go Blimey;s route and have the area filmed. my 2006 has painted molding around the wheel well, so i will likely put a stone guard film on-and add cover for the first 12-16 inch of the molding. havent seen in person a car with the xpel film so a bit nervous that it wont be too visable, but i have to prevent more stone chips. thanks robert

 

I would have posted pics of mine... but you can't see it in any of the pics I have of the side view of the car... it's practically invisible.

 

leicaguy,
I have magnetic stone guards, too. I like them. I noticed they should be removed when washing the auto in order to clean them and the mating surface. Waxing there intallation area and them helps protect the paint surface. Not a big deal to use them.

 

+1 DIY'd them both along with behind the front wheels.

 

I made permanent stone guards using the factory magnetic versions as a template. Clear thick stone guard for the base, semi-matte on top. Looks factory and NEVER any worries.

Up here in our environment, the magnetic factory versions will ruin your paint (if left on for several days even with proper cleaning) as fine dust and most importantly, moisture gets trapped behind, even happens to magnetic badges, just the nature of the magnetic properties. The bosses R53 had these and left them on by mistake...

Here are some photos of my vinyl stone guard setup.

 

The same thing happened to me. I even went as far to remove them in rainy weather and put them on only after ensuring that they were clean and dry. I eventually ended up pitching them, it wasn't worth the heartache of seeing the clear coat cloud. Seems that my front mud flaps were more effective in handling gravel kickup anyway.

 

thanks for the great pictures--you did a great job!!! i spoke to the xpel guy who is going to work on my car late this week, and he said xpel does have the guards in some kits, or the installer can just make one out of spare material. he is going to do that for me since the stone guard area isnt my major problem. its the molding that surrounds the wheel opening--my 2006 mini s converts molding is chili red like the rest of the car--thats where i have chips. so the xpel guy is going to put a piece matching the stone guard in the great pictures just posted-and put like a 18 inch strip going up the wheel opening molding--then the entire area will stay clear. so happy to hear this material isnt very visable--thats my only worry. thanks to all robert

 

Sounds like a plan.

FYI... the "standard" Xpel template for the stone guards is shaped a bit differently than the mag guards pictured. don't go up quite as high, but scallop down all the way to the back of the door. You still can't see them... but that's what they do... at least on my car...

 

I'm hoping someone can answer this for me. I'm having sport stripes applied after market and the invisible stone guard for the front. Does the stone guard go over the stripes or vise versa? Or are they applied in a totally different manner? I'm trying to figure out which I need to have done first since my car arrives before my sport stripes order gets here. Help!

 

I'd put the clear bra on first, then the stripes...this way if you need to replace the stripes at some point (inexpensively at around $80-100), you don't have to pull up the clear bra to do so.

 

+1 Wash often, then Hydro.