My car is almost 1 year old next month, I need to use some pretty tough soap to remove that darn factory grease crap that dripped onto the plastic and metal from the hood fittings.
I need a general consensus of what wax is the ABSOLUTE best. I figure there might be many answers, but my car is ASTRO black, and I DO NOT WANT SWIRLS!!!!!!!!!! I CANNOT REPEAT THIS ENOUGH..,,,NO SWIRLS NO SWIRLS, NO SWIRLS.
The car will be done by hand and does have a few very lite scratches I need to cover, DID I MENTION NO SWIRLS????

 

Wait, did you say no swirls?

 

For your primary goal of preventing swirls, you'll find that this is achieved best by proper technique and tools and not your product or wax. There is no "true" (aka non-abrasive) wax or sealant which will physically cause swirls, in and of itself.

More About Wax and Swirls

There are cleaner-waxes or polish-waxes or all-in-one types of wax products which can deep cleanse the paint and in some cases thus reveal previously induced swirls that were likely hidden by a wax or other product containing filler/concealer chemicals. I've seen cases of the user thinking that the cleaner-wax product they have just used caused swirls when in reality it just revealed those that are already there.

Many waxes have the ability to do at least a little filling and concealing themselves; although, in most cases a dedicated filler/concealer product is going to offer the most filling and concealing over most stand-alone waxes.

Techniques & Tools which can cause swirls

As I said, it is the technique and tools which cause swirls, as well as some degree of "naturally-occurring" (read: caused by wind, dust, dirt, etc while driving) swirls which are inevitable over time. Of course, do keep in mind that, unfortunately, most cars also have "dealer-installed" swirls, many of which are often filled/concealed by waxes and glazes also applying by the dealer. It is rare that, unless you've physically abraded them out yourself, you do not have at least some dealer-installed swirls.

You can find gads of excellent tips on how to avoid swirls on this forum.

Some examples are:

• Proper washing: Using a clean, non-abrading mitt (100% wool is safest), a soap with ample lubricants (not dish soap!), lots of water, frequent dipping into your bucket to thoroughly rinse your mitt (and/or using a 2-bucket system), using a clean, non-abrading drying towel (waffle-style microfiber is usually safest but quality and source varies the safety), etc.
• Proper applicators and buffing cloths: Applying polish and wax on a perfectly clean surface (read: thoroughly hand-washed surface) using a clean applicator and removing polish and wax with a clean, plush, non-abrading cloth (plush, non-looped style microfiber is typically the most effective and safest, but know your source and quality).
• Never ever touch your paint unless it is no more than very lightly dusty, unless you're handwashing it or doing an "emergency" removal of water spots or bird droppings (which can do more permanent damage than swirls so it's worth the swirl risk).
• Never rub on your paint even when its very lightly dusty unless you're using a plush cloth (ideally plush microfiber) AND some form of lubrication (ie, quick detail spray). (note: dusting with a duster does not count as rubbing on the paint and is usually safe for dusting)

There are many more tips that will help you prevent swirls but that's a few off the top of my head. I'm sure others will chime in with other good tips as well.

Astro Black
With your color in particular, you should understand that 100% perfection in the paint will be impossible to maintain 100% of the time. Even if you work hard to initially correct the paint and physically remove existing swirls, light swirls are bound to come along before too long. Why so for your color more than others? Two reasons: 1) Black always shows more imperfections visually and, 2) all of MINIs black paints tend to be softer than most (read: more easily swirled and scratched).

Don't worry though, as there are products made specifically to help maintain the sanity of both black paint car owners and soft paint owners.

Here's what I recommend, in addition to using the correct techniques and tools: No matter which wax you choose (I'll recommend some myself in a moment), use Prima Amigo first because it will help fill and conceal some of the minor imperfections which are so difficult to remove completely and because Amigo sticks around for as long as your wax (many wash out rather quickly). You can also do occasional toppers of Prima Hydro, which is a spray wax that can be used alone or on top of a regular wax and which has excellent filling and concealing abilities.

Of course, if you have quite a few of existing swirls there now, you'll have to physically remove them in order to achieve near-perfection. That's another topic by itself but in summary you'll have to use a quality abrasive polish and most likely need a PC or similar (PC= dual-action, random-orbital polisher with good torque, often the Porter-Cable brand version).


As for the initial wax question, there are lots of great choices for black. Here are some "looks" and some corresponding waxes:

Very reflective but little depth: Zaino, Klasse Sealant Glaze
Glossy and wet-depth: Prima Epic
Rich warm-depth: P21S Carnauba, Victoria Carnauba Wax

All of the above except the 2 carnauba waxes have excellent durability (4-6 months of full protection and even more as the protection dwindles). Most other waxes on the market are not very durable. The carnaubas, being carnaubas, will only last a month or two at best. Some trade offs to consider depending on what's important to you.

Hope that helps!

-Heather

 

As for the initial wax question, there are lots of great choices for black. Here are some "looks" and some corresponding waxes:

Very reflective but little depth: Zaino, Klasse Sealant Glaze
Glossy and wet-depth: Prima Epic
Rich warm-depth: P21S Carnauba, Victoria Carnauba Wax


i WANT TO "SWIM" AND BE IMMERSED WITH DEPTH AND SHINE, SO ACCORDING TO YOU THIS WOULD BE THE PRIMA EPIC RIGHT?

 

has anyone ever tried using multiple waxes...

for instance, give it a coat of Prima Epic, buff it off, then give it a coat of Carnuba?

what would that do? any thoughts.

I know it wouldn't hurt, but would it help?

 

I need to state my bias here first to be fair... I make Prima Epic. That said though, we specifically worked with our chemists to design a durable wax that has a very wet and "swimmable" shine. Even with my bias, I do love lots of other waxes too, depending on the situation and my mood.

If you are looking specifically for the wet depth though, I think you will be very hard pressed to find a wax that offers more of that look that Prima Epic.

Here's a link for a little more info and product photo: Prima Epic

Hopefully some other users will chime in with their Epic experiences so you can take their word for it as well.

Have fun!

-Heather

 

Absolutely you can do that!

It's actually quite fun and can result in a sort of hybrid look.

First though, remember the very important rule of wax order:
Carnaubas always go on last!

If you tried to apply a carnauba and then topped with a non-carnauba, you wouldn't get a good bond and your non-carnauba would wash right away. Vice versa (non-carnauba then top with carnauba) works well.


When would you want to top your synthetic (non-carnauba wax) with a carnauba?
Either you just want to try because you like to play around with waxes or you really like the warmer depth of a carnauba, yet want the durability of some of the synthetic waxes.

The result tends to be some of the look of your synthetic but then is toned down and warmed up with the carnauba.

Personally, I find that you achieve the most from the carnauba look (by itself or topped on a synthetic) when using it on a flat (non-metallic, non-pearl) paint. But, some of the darker metallics and pearls look very rich and warm with a carnauba. I would say that you won't see any difference in look at all (and perhaps a decrease in overall shine but without any visible depth) if you use a carnauba (by itself or topped over a synthetic) on light colors.

-Heather

 

First off, I would like to mention an important factor. Astro Black is a metallic and metallic paints tend to conceal flaws better than flat paints like Jet Black.

Second as we all know Astro Black isn't truly black, so that's going to react differently to light.

With the fact it's a metallic and it's not true black, the qualities you are desiring may not actually be achievable--atleast not compared to what could be done with Jet Black which is a non metallic flat paint.

Given these constraints and everything that Heather mentioned, you really have two courses of action and it depends on your budget, and time available.

Are you working by hand? If so, then products with concealers/fillers is what you want and need--like Amigo and Hydro.

Have a PC or willing to buy one? The potential of achieving what you desire goes up a notch because you can get that flawless finish that reflects light beautifully and permits the paint and metallic flakes to react as they should when not obscured by a layer of scratched clear coat which causes reflections to be hazy and cloudy instead of crisp, clear, and deep.

Proper Prep (Wash, claybar, polishing) is going to get the results you want--no wax, regardless of cost, will give you these things without doing proper prep first.

Learning to maintain it once you've done that is another.

Just some things to keep in mind.

Richard

 

Since no one addressed your Cosmoline issue let me add that soap alone will probably not remove the stains. It took me a combination of paint thinner (on the paint not the plastic) and serious scrubbing with Dawn on the plastic bits to get the Cosmoline off. Of course it was July so it was warmer and that helped. So try washing with Dawn (plain blue unscented) and then if you still have the goo you will need to get more aggressive.
As for Epic - (that's two thumbs up). Nothing gives my Chili Red a better shine and wetness than Prima, and I've tried a lot of different ones.

 

Heather and Richard posted everything you need to know for now.

Once you have fully detailed your MINI, you need to learn the importance of proper maintenance techniques/procedures.

I can't stress that enough as this is where the majority of the swirls will come from.

i.e. not using grit guard, using drive thru car washes, bad washing techniques, using cotton towels, using old rags to wipe off dirt etc...

Best of luck.

When it comes to wax, it will come down to personal preference in terms of what shines better.

I haven't personally used Epic YET, and will in the near future, but have seen its shine and am impressed. But M21 from MEGS has a nice shine as does NXT.

So I say, once you find something you like (that's within your budget), stick with it.

EPIC AT WORK!!!

 

TTIUWP !!! (This Thread Is Useless Without Pics)

Prima Epic Shine:








PRIMA EPIC RULZ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Oh here we go. Now I have a longing for summer!


Yucko!

All better.

 

Thankyou everyone who has offered advice, this is VERY helpful.

 

Some more eye candy for Prima

Subject is a 2005 Aston Martin DB9 (V12) with super soft black paint

 

Epic can also produce a "swimmable" wet shine on lighter metallics:

 

Damn, Blimey... I just suffered a concussion while trying to dive into your door.

 

Novice question here. How do keep from getting white marks on the trim from wax getting on it? I am always careful but end up getting a few white marks anyway.

 

put some BlackWow prior to your polish/wax app. or just mask it with
painter's blue tape.

 

I gave Clara a good wash yesterday, since we have a few nice days coming.

However, she is in DIRE need of a polish. Swirl City, baby!

 

yah, i need to do some serious detailing myself on my MCS.
ran through 2 rain days in 2007. im thinking
about selling the car now cause it was dirtyfied.

 

(drool) That DB9 is so gorgeous! Well, that is, AFTER you fixed it.

BTW, at first when I saw the "leg" photo I wondered what in the world you were doing taking a picture of someone's leg! Then I realized that it was really the reflection you were photographing and not the leg itself! I guess that illustrates the point quite well.

Nice pics all!

-Heather

 

Heh heh thanks Heather!! This morning the owner invited me to have breakfast at his house and take pictures of his car on the driveway. He lives in a mansion. OMG!! The super nicest people in the world---well next to you and Nick of course, lol.

Here's a few more Prima Beauty shots---folks--in case you aren't familiar with the DB9, it's the James Bond car--ranges in price from $180-$200,000.

 

So... what kind of tip did you receive for that job, Richard ??

 

Oh God, you're killing me with these pics! Yum! Nice to know too that the owner is so nice (yet not as nice as Nick and I... ha-ha!).

Sorry for going off-topic here, but I must say it was so horribly painful to watch this similar car crash & flip in the latest Bond movie. It physically twisted my stomach to watch!

Thanks for the extra pics Richard. I'm sure I'm not the only one enjoying them!

Ok, back to the original program...

-Heather

 

A generous 15%! Plus a new friend who loves cars too! Priceless!

Heh heh. Oh I hear ya Heather--on the flipping DB9 . Just to add a bit more info, you're looking at Prima Swirl, Prima Finish, and Prima Amigo, and Prima Epic, and oh about 20 hours of work, with a rotary and PC.