Wheel Touch-Up Paint
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Okay, just for the record, I found this:
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/w...uff-repair.htm
And it does say Wurth should work. And it gives nice tips for the whole process, including spot-bondoing any curb rash. However, I did find two sites that were selling Wurth paint that have pulled it because it no longer matches, and recommendations to go with 1Z Einszett wheel paint instead.
So I am going to get the Wurth primer and clear, and 1ZEinszett wheel paint, and some spot bondo and sandpaper and give it a go here in a week or so.
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/w...uff-repair.htm
And it does say Wurth should work. And it gives nice tips for the whole process, including spot-bondoing any curb rash. However, I did find two sites that were selling Wurth paint that have pulled it because it no longer matches, and recommendations to go with 1Z Einszett wheel paint instead.
So I am going to get the Wurth primer and clear, and 1ZEinszett wheel paint, and some spot bondo and sandpaper and give it a go here in a week or so.
Last edited by MLPearson79; 12-09-2007 at 06:30 PM.
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definitely remove the wheel from the car before working on it unless you
want to waste time masking off your brake caliper/rotor/surrounding paint.
it should go something like this:
best you get the regular yellow masking tape and tape up the sidewall
real well. no need to deflate the tire, just make sure you get tape on
the tire
then hit it with a file/dremel to get the high points down to surrounding
finish. then clean off with alcohol/paint prep real well. then spot bondo
to fill the low areas. use thin thin thin! people make the mistake of
trying to fill it in one shot... bad. it could potentially crack later. use a
soft squeege to apply (auto stores sell them) or even your old spatula.
let it dry completely. typically 15-20min per app.
then take 400 grit and sand all the finish (best to paint the
entire wheel anyway) until it's nice, flat, and even.
clean off with a wet lint-free towel with distilled water to rid dust.
then take a tack towel and wipe off all the remaining dust.
now primer it 2-3 nice coats, make sure you get the corners first. then
hit the face of the wheel. let dry 30min
then hit it with base coat, 3 coats should be good. let it dry 30min.
feel the paint if it's rough. it probably will be so take some 2000grit
and wet sand it until smooth. remove the dust with towel and tack towel.
now hit it again with more umph so that it's not dusty/rough. let dry 30min
to 1hr.
then hit it with clear. rich coats...almost to the point it might drip.
let dry 30min. feel for rough spots. if rough, wet sand it 2000 grit until
smooth. then repeat.
let dry 48hrs minimum. polish using your favorite liquid polish to a
smooth shine.
dont do the work on a humid day...best over 70F and less than 65%RH.
otherwise it will either turn out cloudy looking or just sticky and never
dry.
want to waste time masking off your brake caliper/rotor/surrounding paint.
it should go something like this:
best you get the regular yellow masking tape and tape up the sidewall
real well. no need to deflate the tire, just make sure you get tape on
the tire
then hit it with a file/dremel to get the high points down to surrounding
finish. then clean off with alcohol/paint prep real well. then spot bondo
to fill the low areas. use thin thin thin! people make the mistake of
trying to fill it in one shot... bad. it could potentially crack later. use a
soft squeege to apply (auto stores sell them) or even your old spatula.
let it dry completely. typically 15-20min per app.
then take 400 grit and sand all the finish (best to paint the
entire wheel anyway) until it's nice, flat, and even.
clean off with a wet lint-free towel with distilled water to rid dust.
then take a tack towel and wipe off all the remaining dust.
now primer it 2-3 nice coats, make sure you get the corners first. then
hit the face of the wheel. let dry 30min
then hit it with base coat, 3 coats should be good. let it dry 30min.
feel the paint if it's rough. it probably will be so take some 2000grit
and wet sand it until smooth. remove the dust with towel and tack towel.
now hit it again with more umph so that it's not dusty/rough. let dry 30min
to 1hr.
then hit it with clear. rich coats...almost to the point it might drip.
let dry 30min. feel for rough spots. if rough, wet sand it 2000 grit until
smooth. then repeat.
let dry 48hrs minimum. polish using your favorite liquid polish to a
smooth shine.
dont do the work on a humid day...best over 70F and less than 65%RH.
otherwise it will either turn out cloudy looking or just sticky and never
dry.
#12
I had to fix a chip on my silver s-lites. I went to Autozone with the wheel and match it on the spot. I had all the silver cans on the floor and I was using the store lights to match the silver. After about 45 minutes, I finally decided. The color was from Duplicolor GM Silverstone I think. I will double check when I get home. It is a perfect match. I also bought the clearcoat as well and that made it more perfect. I sometime ask people where the chip was and they cannot find it. I had to use a 2 part epoxy glue called JB Weld to fill in the pea sized gouge.
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