Prep for clearbra
Prep for clearbra
OK so I think I did my do-diligence to see if this specific question has been answered... apologies in advance if I missed an obvious thread - so maybe someone looking to increase their post count will help me out
Next week I am planning to get the full-hood clear-bra at Clear-bra of Oregon. By then we will have had our MINI 4 weeks and about 2500 miles. Before the paint is forever en-captured under the ventureshield. I am wondering what I should do to prepare it.
I just received my DP order of fluffy towels and what-not and starter pack with Swirl, Mistic, Clarity, Slick and I added Hydro. I have already hand-washed the car more times than my previous 30 year car ownership... If the obsession lasts I would like to do this part right.
I am thinking I should clay-bar. Should I do the dawn wash as well? Should I wax? It is close to a 3 hour drive to the place - and they said they would start with a good wash. Thoughts anyone?
Next week I am planning to get the full-hood clear-bra at Clear-bra of Oregon. By then we will have had our MINI 4 weeks and about 2500 miles. Before the paint is forever en-captured under the ventureshield. I am wondering what I should do to prepare it.
I just received my DP order of fluffy towels and what-not and starter pack with Swirl, Mistic, Clarity, Slick and I added Hydro. I have already hand-washed the car more times than my previous 30 year car ownership... If the obsession lasts I would like to do this part right.
I am thinking I should clay-bar. Should I do the dawn wash as well? Should I wax? It is close to a 3 hour drive to the place - and they said they would start with a good wash. Thoughts anyone?
The installer is going to wash the area with a wax-remover so if you do apply a wax, it's just going to get stripped off.
But they're not going to worry about the condition of your paint before they seal it under the film. So you should. Any surface contaminants or those lovely dealer-installed swirls still on your paint will be there as long as the clearbra is installed.
My CR Cooper had about the same mileage on it as yours when I had my clearbra put on. Before taking it in, I stripped the wax, went over it with the clay bar, and then buffed it out with a fine polish.
You'll also want to repair any stone chips you might have gathered in your 2500 miles of motoring. The installer might try to fix them before putting on the clearbra, or he might not. And even if he does, he probably won't spend more than 2 minutes per chip. You can do a better job of it.
But they're not going to worry about the condition of your paint before they seal it under the film. So you should. Any surface contaminants or those lovely dealer-installed swirls still on your paint will be there as long as the clearbra is installed.
My CR Cooper had about the same mileage on it as yours when I had my clearbra put on. Before taking it in, I stripped the wax, went over it with the clay bar, and then buffed it out with a fine polish.
You'll also want to repair any stone chips you might have gathered in your 2500 miles of motoring. The installer might try to fix them before putting on the clearbra, or he might not. And even if he does, he probably won't spend more than 2 minutes per chip. You can do a better job of it.
Thanks for the reply. If I understand correctly the claybar does not remove any swirls. I don't have a machine for buffing so should I use Prima Swirl? (maybe this is a 'dah' question) I'm wondering if a wax of some sort before I get there will help protect on the trip up.
I called the dealer about the touch-up paint and they didn't have any yet. Hoping to have it in by the time I get up there or I think I remember someone on here found an internet source for it...
I called the dealer about the touch-up paint and they didn't have any yet. Hoping to have it in by the time I get up there or I think I remember someone on here found an internet source for it...
the clearbra does not remove swirls. it can sort of hide it. you can use
Meguiar's ScratchX with a foam pad in the mean time to polish out
any minor swirls on your paint. you will need to use some elbow grease
with the scratchx. do 4-5 rounds.
the clearbra itself swirls very easily so be very gentle with it. treat the bra
as part of your paint, but when you use a polish don't use aggressive
polish as i found that it with haze it. plastic polish with gentle pressure,
mid-higher speed on the RO seems to do very well, followed by wax.
www.paintscratch.com
www.paintworldinc.com
both should carry your touchup paints. touchup pens are kinda nice.
if you use the traditional touchup paint bottles, put a dab in a plastic
cup and use a tooth pick with the tip flattened to apply.
Meguiar's ScratchX with a foam pad in the mean time to polish out
any minor swirls on your paint. you will need to use some elbow grease
with the scratchx. do 4-5 rounds.
the clearbra itself swirls very easily so be very gentle with it. treat the bra
as part of your paint, but when you use a polish don't use aggressive
polish as i found that it with haze it. plastic polish with gentle pressure,
mid-higher speed on the RO seems to do very well, followed by wax.

www.paintscratch.com
www.paintworldinc.com
both should carry your touchup paints. touchup pens are kinda nice.
if you use the traditional touchup paint bottles, put a dab in a plastic
cup and use a tooth pick with the tip flattened to apply.
Did you say FULL hood clearbra?? Is that finally available? Or are you literally paying thousands?
I've said once before I wish I could just clearbra the whole car... It sure would be nice never to have to worry much about paint chips and scratches again, not to mention no more unsightly clearbra lines!
Anyway yes, you will want to polish the pain and get it as clean as possible, no wax underneath.
I've said once before I wish I could just clearbra the whole car... It sure would be nice never to have to worry much about paint chips and scratches again, not to mention no more unsightly clearbra lines!
Anyway yes, you will want to polish the pain and get it as clean as possible, no wax underneath.
kenchan thanks for the paint tips. I tried (without much success) to fix the paint on my Jeep GC. I don't see my paint listed yet but I just ran a search and found that levine autoparts has it.
Last edited by minicounter; Oct 17, 2007 at 09:39 PM. Reason: Read the label on the bottle...
I had my '05 done at Clearbra of Oregon as well. They did a full hood and front bumper wrap. I went that route because I didn't want seams that collect wax especially on a black car. I had a Stongard pre-cut kit on another black car and it was the biggest mistake ever. Seams stuck out like a sore thumb. Also the Ventureshield material appear smoother than the 3M Stongard but that could have been due to the install.
On my MCS they didn't have a full kit so they used the bulk stock and cut it to fit. Also I removed the headlamps, fender flares, windshield washer jets, badge and hood scoop so they didn't have to trim around them. I was very happy with the results and I know you will too. I didn't have my lights done because I had done them myself so I probably ended up paying a little less than your quote.
On my MCS they didn't have a full kit so they used the bulk stock and cut it to fit. Also I removed the headlamps, fender flares, windshield washer jets, badge and hood scoop so they didn't have to trim around them. I was very happy with the results and I know you will too. I didn't have my lights done because I had done them myself so I probably ended up paying a little less than your quote.
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