Just ask questions here on NAM, I'm sure it will all become clear.
The best step you can take is to try it. You won't get any better learning than by doing. What is the worst that can happen? Your paint will not fall off no matter which product you choose and should you get less than perfect results your first time out - well welcome to the club.
Detailing your MINI should be thought of as some fun, quality time with something you are glad to own and enjoy taking care of. Have fun and don't stress. Try starting off simple and progress each time by adding some new step.
I'm all out of pep-talk phrases, can some one else jump in here.

 

Sorry for the delay. You might want to join WCM if you aren't a member already (its free). They have booked the first Saturday in February at my shop for a MINI club garage event.

Of course, that's still several months away, so you could always come to me first, and then again for a followup maintenance with the club later.
Thanks Jeffrey! I was planning to have one this month, but things are too hectic right now.
I wouldn't pay someone to work on my car until I could qualify them. That would mean finding out what products they used, and asking whether you could stick around and watch from beginning until end and ask questions. I would also ask what tools they planned to use and why and whether they planned to use a wool pad or foam pads (good question especially if they haven't even seen the car yet). Most production places will use a wool pad because it's fast for them, yet without seeing the condition of the car, that could do more damage than good. Ask if they hang out on any of the popular detailing forums. You're probably better off hooking up with a local detailing enthusiast than a "pro". I'm sure there are others here on NAM in WV that would help you, otherwise go to a forum like Autopia.org and ask around in the local forum to your area. May only cost you a pack of beer.

 

I've found it best, in some cases, to leave the major yearly or bi-yearly wax stripping, polishing and re-waxing of my cars to my master detailer and friend Ted Hersey. He has the time and skill to do everything right and I just keep the car up between those milestones. With proper and consistent care using the right products a car can look quite good for a long time without major detail work like buffing, stripping, polishing, waxing, but it is recommended especially because wax breaks down and the finish will be less protected.

In my case, I use Griots Garage products to maintain the car and wash it regularly, do the interior as needed, vacuum, do the windows, use a spray wax and speed shine and let Ted take it all down, clay it, polish it and wax it...

It works for my busy lifestyle....expect to pay at least 200+ for a decent job and as Octane Guy suggest, make sure the shop is qualified and better yet, get to know the person that is working on your car and have them be "your" detailer. I would never trust any of my cars to anyone without seeing their work and getting referrals.

Finally, NEVER go for those $69 detail jobs unless you wants swirls-galore, burnt paint, deep scuffs from cleaning the car too quickly with dirty rags.

NEVER, EVER, NEVER take your car to any of those fund raising car wash events.

NEVER, EVER, NEVER, NEVER take your car though the car wash that has the spinning brushes. EVER. Don't take it through the pressure washer kind either, as they will strip wax right off......not nearly as bad as the swirl brush kind though...

 

I was all set to get going on Basil this weekend, but ended up having to work on Saturday. Ends up being a good thing (I think), because the nasty Santa Ana winds kicked up yesterday, and will continue coating every surface of every thing in southern CA covered in grit and dust and ashes for the next couple of days. Next weekend, I promise!

Any tips on the interior? I received by bottle of Nero from DP - how should I get rid of the grit and dust before I use the Nero? Shop vac or dust?

Thanks again for all the input!

 

you can apply Nero directly over your kinda dirty dash and door panels.

use a MF utility type towel, not the regular Platinum nor papertowels.

for your floors, yes, vac is best imho. for leatherette, do a 50/50 (Nero:water) mix.

for real dirty floors, griot's InteriorCleaner does a fantastic job.

 

Thanks Kenchan!

I have the cloth seats - was thinking about 303 for the seat material after vacuuming....

 

if you have stains that sounds good. if no stains, i would probably not
use any liquids.

 

I've used the 303 Fabric Guard on my cloth seats and the carpet. Makes cleaning them so much easier. The 303 Fabric Cleaner is a great, low foaming, no staining cleaner. You can save some money by buying the 303 Aerospace Cleaner and cutting it 50/50 with water - this is really what their Fabric Cleaner is any way.
For interior vinyl surfaces I use Nero (uncut) and some crap Target orange MF towels.

 

Well, I finally did it. Yesterday the ash stopped falling from the sky, so I washed him, gave him the old clay bar, started with Amigo, (but got nervous that time was running out), applied the Epic, waited, and buffed the Epic off. Hit the interior with Nero, cleaned all the glass with Clarity and quit just in time to shower and head to the inlaws for dinner. I can't help but think it is faster now and gets better gas mileage due to the very slippery aspect of the finish.... That Epic stuff is wonderful!

Of course, the down side to spending the afternoon in close contact with painted sheet metal involves noticing scratches and a couple of spots on the bottom of the driver's door that seem to have been poorly painted at the factory. Grrrr.

Next weekend I attack the wife's element. I look at it quite differently now - there is a lot more paint on that bad boy.