Plan for first Detail
Plan for first Detail
Ok, should be getting my Prima order tomorrow and can't wait to get to get started. Here's the plan...
1. Vacuum, use ragtopp cleaner, apply raggtop sealant. (thinking of doing this before washing etc just in case and because I'm guessing late day delivery)
2. wash with mystique and my new lambskin mitt
3. clay with meguire's (which my bro-in-law should be bringing me tomorrow night)
4. Swirl (spot on my car and when it comes to my wife's car may do the whole thing since it's got a lot of swirls and some holograming)
5. Finish my stripes
6. Amigo the entire car
7. Epic
8. QD with slick?
sound about right? comments? corrections?
I know that I've read here and elsewhere to work in 2' by 2' sections. I'm assuming that's just for application. How do you tell where your 'sections' are?
Another question: Since I'm still on crutches and not moving all that fast, how long can you stretch this process out over without having to redo some of the steps?
Thanks for any advice
1. Vacuum, use ragtopp cleaner, apply raggtop sealant. (thinking of doing this before washing etc just in case and because I'm guessing late day delivery)
2. wash with mystique and my new lambskin mitt
3. clay with meguire's (which my bro-in-law should be bringing me tomorrow night)
4. Swirl (spot on my car and when it comes to my wife's car may do the whole thing since it's got a lot of swirls and some holograming)
5. Finish my stripes
6. Amigo the entire car
7. Epic
8. QD with slick?
sound about right? comments? corrections?
I know that I've read here and elsewhere to work in 2' by 2' sections. I'm assuming that's just for application. How do you tell where your 'sections' are?
Another question: Since I'm still on crutches and not moving all that fast, how long can you stretch this process out over without having to redo some of the steps?
Thanks for any advice
I would recommend not QDing until the Epic has had the full 24 hours to cure.
I also do a 'safety' 2nd coat of Epic just to make sure I didn't miss any spots (done 24 hours after the 1st coat) but that's up to you.
I also do a 'safety' 2nd coat of Epic just to make sure I didn't miss any spots (done 24 hours after the 1st coat) but that's up to you.
Thought I'd wait for the washes after I waxed for the Hydro. No fear, I did order some. How about the other questions - I have a hard time keeping track of where I started and where I left off (ie the 2x2 work areas)?
And I guess I'll just do a minus 1/2 on Ken since I never put my name on my posts
Tony
And I guess I'll just do a minus 1/2 on Ken since I never put my name on my posts

Tony
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no i didn't forget. im waiting for him to get his first coat ofepic on there and then wap! it's Hydro time. lol
but wat if my name was Brian?
Give the Raggtop plenty of curing time in direct sun. The hotter the better. Wash the top and make sure your top is good and dry then apply the Raggtop. Be sure to tape and use newspaper on the glass and rubber trim. I also use a sheet up under the top. Raise the top up a bit, put the sheet under the top from windshield to rear window and lower the top back down on to the sheet. use this to protect your side glass and windshield.
When putting on the Raggtop soak the canvas very, very well then let it sit in full sun to cure. This stuff is a PITA to get off paint and rubber so this is the only time I use tape and masking.
When putting on the Raggtop soak the canvas very, very well then let it sit in full sun to cure. This stuff is a PITA to get off paint and rubber so this is the only time I use tape and masking.
Also, if you're going to clay, no need to waste your Mystique before hand. Just use Dawn or Gold Class of something cheap.
Just a side note, if this is a new delivery you really don't need to apply waterproofing to the canvas just yet. It is probably good for at least a couple of months from the factory. Maybe do your paint work this go around and then late in the summer if you feel a need to, do the Raggtop.
Just a side note, if this is a new delivery you really don't need to apply waterproofing to the canvas just yet. It is probably good for at least a couple of months from the factory. Maybe do your paint work this go around and then late in the summer if you feel a need to, do the Raggtop.
Thanks for the input.
MiniMaybee - The car is 2005 so it's been two years since I got it and haven't treated the top so my thinking it was time since the recommendation is every year. I know what you are talking about with the Mystique but I don't have any other car wash soaps around and don't necessarily want to use Dawn since I've read it's harsher on trim etc. Though I know Zaino recommends it before their waxes. So I'm open to being convinced it would be ok this one time.
MiniMaybee - The car is 2005 so it's been two years since I got it and haven't treated the top so my thinking it was time since the recommendation is every year. I know what you are talking about with the Mystique but I don't have any other car wash soaps around and don't necessarily want to use Dawn since I've read it's harsher on trim etc. Though I know Zaino recommends it before their waxes. So I'm open to being convinced it would be ok this one time.
Well a Dawn wash is not something you would want to do every time, but a couple times a year is no big deal. Just make sure it is the blue Dawn without additives. It does work well for removing any remaining Carnuaba and any road oils from the paint. It will not remove Epic or Z-2 if that is your intent however. For synthetics you would need to use either vinegar or an Alcohol-water solution.
So if it has been two years since the canvas has been treated sounds like it is due. I don't think it is practical to try to fit in a canvas treatment and paint detailing in to one day; just because of the time needed for the Raggtop to cure in the sun.
So if it has been two years since the canvas has been treated sounds like it is due. I don't think it is practical to try to fit in a canvas treatment and paint detailing in to one day; just because of the time needed for the Raggtop to cure in the sun.
Ok, may do the Dawn first then. Was going to do the Raggtop one day and the detail the next but I depends on what time the box gets here and how much work it ends up being I guess.
dawn is old news.
www.griotsgarage.com
i use PaintPrep. this is by far the best wax removal product.
www.griotsgarage.com
i use PaintPrep. this is by far the best wax removal product.
Well actually Groits stuff is old news
, P21S Paintwork Cleanser is my favorite pre-clay product, but obviously from his post he is wanting to do this sooner rather than later so you use what you can get. FWIW you can order P21S products from Heather at DP.
, P21S Paintwork Cleanser is my favorite pre-clay product, but obviously from his post he is wanting to do this sooner rather than later so you use what you can get. FWIW you can order P21S products from Heather at DP.
Been reading on autopia.org and am now a little concerned. I don't have a PC and just don't think I can justify that expense for quite a while. I know that this piece of equipment would make things easier and probably provide a better result but ...
I read a thread on the aforementioned site that was pretty much berating a guy for asking about hand polishing and waxing. Now I'm a little concerned about the results I'm going to get. Is it worth trying to do by hand? Anything I can do besides getting the PC (which really isn't an option)
I read a thread on the aforementioned site that was pretty much berating a guy for asking about hand polishing and waxing. Now I'm a little concerned about the results I'm going to get. Is it worth trying to do by hand? Anything I can do besides getting the PC (which really isn't an option)
You can do it by hand. I did the MINI and my Wife's Expedition by hand the first time. It is why I bought a PC - too much work. But you can do it by hand. Once you get past the Swirl step, the rest is easy. You will want to break your MINI down into sections and focus on one section at a time. Don't move on until you're happy with the looks of the current section. It also helps to overlap a bit. You're going to get tired and it will take a while, but it is actually possible to get results every bit as good by hand as with a PC. For doing the Swirl by hand I would recommend you get a good stiff foam applicator. The Sonus pad that is yellow on one side and black on the other is a good choice http://www.bettercarcare.com/son-sfxpro.html.



