Dude, you gotta cut back on that Octane Gel and get some sleep...

 

You are correct, the DVD is very helpful.

I am in the same boat as you. Used the PC for the first time and did not get perfect results, but the paint is much better.
However, I did not expect perfect the first time. I figure we will both get better with more work, probably still not perfect but better.

 

When using Swirl on the whole car by hand what kind of pad should I use? MF or foam? I don't want anything too strong.

 

Resurecting this thread in hopes of some additional help with scratches...
I've got a few surface scratches, some that seem to be down to primer, because they look white, and then one or two chips, defintely deep, but just primer - no metal showing.
I've tried polishing and rubbing compound. So far have succeeded in creating a bit of a haze, which I imagine will buff out with polish.

So...my question...

Is there any reason to pay for these "kits", like Quixx or Scratch-X, as compared to the old standbys of rubbing and polishing compound?

Are they really different? If I am going to spend 20, 50, or more dollars for these kits, and flail around using hit-and-miss techniques, will I be wasting money, or do I bite the bullet and get a professional to repair it?

And any advice on how well these products work on chrome? As in the chrome boot handle? I have a minor scratch there, but after about 5 minutes of rubbing and polishing compunds, don't see too much difference.

Thanks!!!

 

ScratchX isn't a kit--it's a tube of hand applied paint cleaner/polish.

Rubbing Compounds are very bad for modern paint--it shouldn't be near your MINI.

What I don't understand is that you've got scratches down to Primer, and you're expecting to rub these out..and by hand no less?

You can't polish something out if the paint isn't there to polish out. I.e., if you see white primer, you're going to see white primer after polishing as well.

re: Chrome
Neither metal polishes nor paint polishes are going to improve the chrome--it's much too hard.

Depending on what techniques are used, a professional can probably fix most any scratch using paint subtraction techniques within 30 minutes, unless he's also adding paint--then it will take much longer for the paint to dry.

Richard

 

THanks OctaneGuy - you do seem to be the authority here - thanks for the info.
I have a variety of scratch depths...from very light to deep, perhaps down to primer.
I was hoping that using varying degrees of abrasives/polishes would work on the lessser scratches, leaving the deeper ones for the touch-up paint.

Interesting that you say rubbing/polishing caompounds should not be used on these paints.

I went to some of the web sites for Langka, Quixx, and Scratch-X, but was afraid they sounded too much like a snake-oil salesman.

Given that there are also a few chips in this area, would you reccommend one of those kits?

I now risk the terrible shame of going to the Jim Thorpe Run V next weekend with my boot in this condition!!

 

I think I know my way around a buffer, lol.

Yep, your expectations are correct about the polishes.

I don't say polishing compounds shouldn't be on the MINI, I specifically say "rubbing".

Traditional rubbing compounds (sharp/coarse/abrasives) are unlike todays' diminishing abrasives that are safe for your paint.

Langka is a solvent that dissolves factory touch up paint regardless of the age of the touchup. Using it as directed, it "melts" away thin layers of the touchup, and if you do it right, can get the touchup blended into the existing paint. I've never had a great deal of success with it--but I will admit it is one of the best solutions short of wetsanding the touchup. My expectations for a repair is very high--the best wetsanded touchup will look like a tiny smudge in the paint, nearly invisible even when viewed at a few inches away.

Quixx is a kit containing a small amount of polish and wax and sandpaper. I know some people have sworn it's greatness here on NAM, and I admittedly haven't tried it, but in viewing the literature and the kit at my local Kragens the other day, it doesn't appear to be anything other than just a kit for wetsanding your paint.

Scratch-X, once again is Meguiar's hand applied paint cleaner used for removing light blemishes by hand or PC.

If you're working by hand, then try either some Prima Swirl or ScratchX and see if you can rub it out--the car should be rocking and shaking if you're polishing it correctly--you need a lot of pressure and vigor--not just apply and wipe off.

All 3 of these products require proper technique for a successful fix and the results will obviously vary on the degree of the corrections.

Richard

 

Well, all I've got to lose is time - I'll spend a few bucks on one of these kits, give it a whirl, and then look into professional help if it is not close enough to perfect.
I've got lots of patience, and a fair amount of skill in many types of hand crafting, so I may get good results.

Your info and the other earlier posts are defintely helpful - I don't feel so totally blind going into this!

Thanks.

 

Just remember one thing. The total combined thickness of primer, basecoat, clearcoat is about the thickness of a good sheet of paper. Or if you have one of my laminated Trim Masking cards for Black Wow, it's the thickness of the plastic...about 5mil.

Anytime you remove paint to fix a scratch, you should realize that the difference between one stroke and three strokes with sand paper is HUGE.

With ScratchX, the chances of hurting the paint are nearly 0, because it's a very mildly abrasive polish.

All I'm saying here, is there are different ways to go about correcting the problem--keep in mind what you're dealing with--microscopically thin paint, and if you stand back and feel it's good enough, then it is---there is no undo button, lol. So if removing paint isn't working for you, then try the tools to add paint and see if that works better.

Richard

 

OK - I'm off to Autozone! Yes - my "Undo Key" is to go with my tail btwn my legs to a pro.
Hey - how about I promise you a great home-cooked meal if you just hop on a red-eye and come out here to bucolic Connecticut!!!!????!!!

Wish me luck!! (Is that your web site - showcardetailing? Makes we wish I live out your way...very nice.)

 

Update:
1 hour of buffing has produced decent results...
Polishing compaund first, got one scratch past the clearcoat and just down to paint...then Mcuires Scratch-X to polish it back nice and shiny...looks quite good, except that now I can see that it is not only a scratch, but an ever-so-mild depression - dare I call it a dent? - behind that scratch...
I did use an extremely fine grit wet sanding pad on that deepest scratch - it was just beyond the clearcoat.

The other scratches buffed out with the compound, then back to shininess with the Scratch-X.

Tomorrow I tackle the coupla chips with touch-up paint...this is where I will see if my capabilities as a watercolor miniaturist will help or hinder this job.

OctaneGuy - your are SO RIGHT about chrome being hard...I woulda guessed that being 'plastic' chrome rather than metal that it really wouldn't be that hard...
but all I succeeded in doing was making the scratches really shiny with my buffing...I did not smooth them one eensy bit.

Not sure if yer interested in my play-by-play, but I find it therapeutic...
And I can vouch for the wisdom of OctaneGuy for all you other newbies out there.

 

Gotta give it to you for determination, zz. Everyone is going to be too busy at JTR5 to notice your boot - they'll be too busy looking at Manny's latest mods and eating ice cream.