Hmmm, how long ago was this?? More than 3 years ago?? There was a time Meg's clay was really hard and brittle. As for sticking to the paint--it will do that without lube.

Not anymore, I lost half the bunch due to an accident in my trailer--too much heat...
I disagree. Some clays actually become brittle and fall apart when using wash water. Meguiar's is like that. That's why they have their Quik Clay system which includes 2 50g pieces of clay, a clay box, a bottle of Quik Detailer, and a Supreme Shine microfiber towel.

Each clayed section should be about the size of a microfiber towel. You SHOULD dry it as you go--will save lube that way. Or you could QD it afterwards. As far as polishing the clay residue out--you could, but you always want to polish a clean surface, so leaving the residue could affect the quality of your polishing steps. It probably won't, but it *might*.

Actually you only need to clay your paint when it needs it. This might be 4 or 5 times a year or once every 2 or more years---depending on how you maintain your paint.

It's a fallacy to tell people that touching your paint in a circular motion puts swirl marks in it. As others have said, you should examine how you are touching your paint--the pad and the chemical and whether the surface is clean are far more important than the direction you rub.

If that makes you frustrated, then take a step back and re-evaluate your statements.
Hmmm, I'm a detailing expert. I wouldn't say the enthusiasts at Autopia are all experts either. I get a lot of customers from there, but there is a lot of baloney over there as well. The guy at the Autozone counter who has probably never heard of Meguiar's professional products nor detailing clay means that he's probably a mobile car wash expert.

Be careful of the High Tech Body Sponge. It works great, but only use it if you are going to polish your paint afterwards. It has the potential to haze and scratch your paint. If you're going to be using a PC--then it's not something you need to be concerned about.

 

Nah you are sharp as a tack cause that was meant as a double entendre

 

And some clays fall apart when QD is used - Sonus for one, Zaino's for another. Since I use the DP clay and have found that it is very stable when used with soapy water - that's what I use. It's the cheapest thing around and if you use the two bucket method for washing the water will be clean.

As for drying after claying - what exactly are you leaving on the paint that could affect the outcome of the polishing? And if what you leave behind can affect the polishing stage, what will drying the paint after claying a section with the same stuff on it do?

 

Exactly--so you should use the lube that's recommended by that clay supplier. Meguiar's suggests using Quik Detailer. If you use soap water and it falls apart and you call Meguiar's sticky or crappy or anything else, whose fault is that? (Not saying YOU as in you--but anyone that's doing that)

re: Clay Residue
It's the principle. When you polish paint, you want to start with a clean surface. Wiping the residue while it is still wet is one thing--buffing dried residue is another. In practice does it really make much of a difference? I suppose it depends on what you are trying to achieve.

 

oh...that's too bad. how did the excessive heat affect your clay?
did it just turn into a liquidy blob?

 

claybar is horrible. It tastes even worse than those Atkins bars.

 

I guess you must not have tried cherry flavored yet

 

This guy is just as good a salesman as he was a detailer, obviously.

 

Well I just finished claying and waxing my car. It looks AWESOME (obviously I'm new to the claybar results...) The procedure went off without a hitch. Clay never hit the ground- I put a little wedge between my pointer and middle fingers to prevent slippage.

I'd like to thank all who gave advice and convinced me to go back and get it. I don't know why I didn't do this earlier!

EDIT: looks like I'll have to update my signature pic now!

 

I know, that's what's strange. They lost (sort of) out on almost $20. Maybe the guy was partial to buffing or something...who knows.

 

But you got the point Maybe a bit of hyperbole but the principle is right

 

sounds good! now you are ready to polish and wax.

 

Thanks for the clarification.

I noticed when it gets too wet, or not wet enough, it does stick to my hand. I just kept soaking the paint surface with diluted carwash soap and it worked fine. If it's not wet enough, the claybar sticks to the paint. If it's too wet, the claybar turns muddy? I'll be careful with that.

Hmmmm, I'll have to find a thread on polishes next....

 

Beken- there are other clays that are much easier to work with. I'm currently using PrimaClay and that has been my favorite since.

I've tried Mother's which was too brittle/hard, Griot's that was too soft. PrimaClay is just right. Kneading is kinda different as it tears apart more than stretch but its okay.

 

I like the Prima clay but for those who think it's too hard and that Griot's is too soft, Meguiar's blue clay is perrrrfect.

 

Where does Meg's white fit in your mix. That is what I wanna know for comparison

 

I just used Meg's white. I obviously haven't used any other brand yet, since I just did my first job yesterday, but I thought it was great. Didn't fall apart or anything. It was quite stiff though, somewhat hard to knead.

It seems as though a lot of you use Prima products. Do I dare ask- what is Prima Hydro?

 

I'll leave the answer for Kenchan.

Ken, where are you?

 

Also, along with that question...

After I clayed yesterday, I used

EDIT: 1. a GLaze to get the scratches out
2. Meg's Caraunuba wax
3. ICE

Can I still use Prima (hydro?) after a couple of weeks? I still don't really know what it is.

 

Well if it aint broke, don't fix it I say the Meg's is good stuff

What is Hydro??? ken will be on here & tell you soon but I am the ken of Prima Clarity
Clarity is the best window cleaner the world has ever seen. When used in conjunction with the MF Glass Cloth you will effortlessly get perfect, streak-free glass. I bought some for the MINI but after using it I now refuse to use anything else including inside my house. Thank goodness Clarity is available by the gallon

 

Thanks for the window advice. The stuff I use is good, but not great. I'll definitely look into that. As for Megs, I have been using their products for awhile now and they're great, don't get me wrong. However I'm looking for something that might go well on top of it (longer lasting Megs wax). I'm currently using ICE, which is great. I'm wondering which is better- Hydro or ICE.

Sorry about not knowing what hydro is...I'm a relative newb to detailing (for real), but I've always LOVED washing cars.

Now just waiting for Ken I guess...

 

Ok since ken is napping I guess

Hydro is a wax as you dry product, kinda like a quick detailer but better & it smells good too IMHO you should wax with a good quality was & then every few weeks you spritz hydro on after washing & then dry your MINI off & you will have one shiny MINI

 

Did you mean a "glaze" in step 1? I'll assume so since it rhymes but correct me if I'm wrong.

A few comments, per your above steps...

1.
Glazes fill and conceal scratches and swirls. They do not remove them. Some brands will market them as "swirl removers" but really they mean "the removal of the appearance of swirls" when they state that as opposed to physically removing them.
What does this mean? It means that glazes are nice for a quick, temporary fix or for those times when you physically remove swirls/scratches (with an abrasive polish) but just don't have the time or right tools to get it to 100%. Glazes can be handy like that. Just know that they are quite short-lived and can trick you into thinking that you have removed your scratches when you've only concealed them. Most glazes wash out the next time you wash while others will last a little longer.

Having said that, there are a few brands who don't use the traditional definition of a glaze in their naming... in other words, there are synthetic waxes with the word "glaze" in their name, as well as abrasives-cleanser combo products with the word "glaze" in their name. Typically though, refer to the above paragraph on what a glaze is and isn't.

2. & 3.
Did you do steps 2 and 3 in that order?
Here's a handy rule to always remember:
You can put a carnauba wax on top of a synthetic (ie, ICE) but not the other way around.
Why? Because synthetic products are designed to bond directly with paint (and sometimes other polymer-based products). The oils that are inherent in carnauba waxes impede the bond between the synthetic wax and the paint, almost always to the point of not bonding at all. And, in the process of applying the synthetic, it's likely that you will remove some or all of (or at least mess with) the carnauba wax layer.

In summary, if you want to use both ICE and Megs carnauba (or any other synthetic-carnauba combo), make sure you apply the ICE first and then the carnauba. It's kind of like "i before e except after c"... "synthetic before carnauba except, well, never otherwise."

Hydro and carnauba waxes are not usually friends. In other words, Hydro does not bond to a carnauba base wax very well, if at all.

So, if you have a carnauba wax on your car, I would not suggest using Hydro. However, as most carnauba waxes don't last that long anyway, after a while* you could use Hydro anyway. If you use Hydro on paint that still has carnauba wax on it, you will usually notice that the Hydro will smear a bit and you can tell it's not working right.
*What's "after a while"?? It depends on which carnauba wax you've used and how much exposure/wear it has seen since you applied it.

If you just have ICE on your car (or any other synthetic wax), then by all means, yes! You can definitely use Prima Hydro after a couple of weeks. As ICE is not very durable, Hydro will pick up where ICE left off from a protective standpoint and will also add a glossier look.


Prima Hydro, while being able to double as a quick detail spray in many cases, is a concentrated spray wax. It offers:

• A durable (for a spray anyway!) protective layer. 1-2 months of full protection.
• A glossy wet look.
• Filling and concealing abilities (similar to the way a glaze fills and conceals light scratches/swirls)
• Flexibility in application: You can apply Hydro to your wet car after washing and rinsing (but before drying... spritz with Hydro then dry normally with a microfiber towel) OR you can apply Hydro to your dry car and buff with a plush microfiber cloth. Use less product in the latter application technique. Both techniques provide the same results, but the former application technique is often more convenient for most people.

You can use Hydro on everything exterior... paint, glass, trim, etc.


BTW, Prima is the brand (www.primacarcare.com) and Hydro is the product name. I know... it can get confusing out here when you're new to some of these products and brands.

-Heather

 

Oh, and although the original question has been answered more than thoroughly at this point, I just have to add that I agree... that sales guy obviously lives in the dark ages and doesn't know what he is talking about.

-Heather

 

Thanks for the post above ^^ I was looking for criticism on what I'm doing right and wrong.

So am I correct in thinking that

1. synthetic products are designed to be more of a base coat (ICE, Epic).
2.Carnuaba waxes are put on after the sealant base coat.
3. Hydro lasts longer than ICE.


Is this correct?

After using Epic (after it cures) can you then put on hydro? Does Hydro fit into the synthetic or carnuaba type stuff?