Absolutely. This is one of the reasons I settled on the 16" wheel as opposed to a 17 or 18. I really get in depth on the phone when I discuss this point with folks. I will even be going to get a 15 for SCCA stuff to keep the weight farthest from the center of the hub as low as possible. The Hoosier helps in this regard as well - they are very light.

For cost to weight to performance ratios, I have developed the 16" tire/wheel package on my website. This has been tested extensively on the track and at the autocross course.

Check out the success we had this weekend over on the Racing and Competition forum :smile: .

 

Another weight shedding idea for the Cooper;
Remove the spare tire and tool kit.
Lightening the nut behind the wheel via Jerod Subway diet is a little more difficult.

For autocrossing, use light weight 15" wheels (to remain in stock class) and sticky tires.
My last 2 auto-X cars had 13" wheels, better for launching off the gate.

Does anyone have 15" holeys for sale?

 

Thank you 0_MINI for the info and a very good one too.

 

Point taken 0_MINI

Posted: Apr 14, 2003 - 04:40 PM
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Quote:
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The issue becomes the fact that when you lose the weight on the Cooper, the person with an S still has that option as well...

I like the Cooper and the S - both are great cars and both serve different purposes, but the S is a better performance foundation, for several reasons.

1. The larger swaybars and slightly higher rate springs
2. The additional 48 horsepower
3. The supercharger whine
4. The aftermarket availablity of S vs. Cooper effective modifications
5. The Getrag 6 speed gearbox
6. Dark Silver
7. Did I mention the additional 48 horsepower?

The 130 hp goal seems pretty reasonable - but it will take a full exhaust, an intake, and some good luck. 140 will be tough without going to the head and cam.

The other issue relates to #4. The aftermarket for the Cooper is a much tougher proposition, as the Cooper is pretty well optimized stock from the numbers we've seen. You really can't get that nuch out of it with the exhaust for example - maybe 6 horsepower or so. Compared to the S numbers of 10-13 horspower, you start to see that not only are there more options for the S, but they are more effective as well. For instance, after all of your weight reduction and horsepower increases on the Cooper, you may be able to get down to 16/1 or so, but factor in a hot rod S, like mine, which has roughly 210 hp at the flywheel and weighs 2648 lbs - 12.6lbs/hp!

Hope that helps.

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Randy, you don't play fair!

Of course it's not possible to dispute any of your points except #6!!

I think some of us relish the challenge of getting more performance out of the Cooper. I also think there is a purity and simplicity to the Cooper that the S does not possess. Given that the MINI mod market is in its infancy, I hope for more significant gains for the Cooper as the aftermarket matures.

The goal is to sneek up on an unsuspecting (stock ) S and show it tail lights!! :smile: :smile: :smile:

 

Weight reductions for R50
Aftermarket seats, stock seats 52lbs, sparcos 38lbs.
Battery, go to Braille.
Brake calipers, stock very heavy, wilwoods very light.
RSD
CF hood & hatch back.
Wheels

 

This has to the take the cake for reviving an old thread. However it's still as relevant today as it was 8 years ago.

 

Absolutely! I have a plan to lighten the R50 this summer:

1. Remove Rear Seat (35 pounds)
2. Remove Spare tire and tool kit (40 pounds)
3. Swap for Sparco Sprint seats (net savings of 40 pounds for the seats)
4. Braille Battery (done already, have the 9 pounder)
5. Removed the S-lites and roll the flik Arctic (25 pounds per to 16.5 pounds per)

That is a savings of about 150 pounds total. I lightened the nut behind the wheel by about 40 pounds this year so, the Mini should be good to go!

 

[QjoOTE=6f7;101043]>>(less weight than run flats !)
<<

I found that the weights of the 205/45/17 Pirelli runflats and the 205/45/17 Yokohama AVS are both: ~22lbs

Do you have different numbers?

No

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No[/QUOTE]