Gknorr- Your pin assignments look correct. As for pin 3, it's just the power feed- I think I tapped into the power to the brake switch, and just created a ground point with a drill and sheet metal screw. I think that my pin assignments in the write-up above are mistaken: I wrote that it is necessary to run a wire from the EWS to pin 85 on the DME (Wiring Diagram pin 4). You are correct that the wire must be run from the CLUTCH SWITCH to the DME, NOT the EWS to the DME (that one already exists). I will amend my earlier write up. Thanks for catching that!

 

Okay, it all makes sense now - thanks for taking a look and verifying everything.

Tapping into the power for the brake light switch makes sense too - they're both running back to the 5 amp F6 fuse slot.

How did you figure out wiring diagram pin 4 is actually pin 85 on the DME connector?

 

The wiring diagram has its own pin #s, while the actual DME has its own pin #s. The Fuel Injection section of the Bentley manual has a side-by-side of the W.D. #s with the DME #s, plus a short description of what each pin "does". I think that contributed the mistake in my write-up: mixing up the pin #s.

 

BTW I edited my write-up. Hope I fixed all the bugs!

 

I think I have what you're referring to - came attached to the master cylinder.

I'm assuming the connector you took TFCs from was attached to the module on the left of the attached picture? My clutch switch is on the right of the picture.

When I wire this in, I'll try to take pictures for everyone to supplement your write-up.

Connector should be coming in about a week...

 

You are correct on both counts! The TFCs (my own made-up acronym) can be harvested from the connector that plugged into that module. It'll be hanging around, unemployed, under the dash...mine was blue plastic. Also, I found the Hall switch attachment to the Clutch MC to be a bit flimsy, so once everything was in place I zip-tied it to the MC to be sure.

 

Hi, every one, that is very great news that you get the cruise difficulty solved, two thumbs up. I finally get the mechanical part done without reprogramming yet. I tried to start my car but failed. There is no engine crank, not even starter click, just nothing. As I know, I can got a immediate start if every thing is right, but EWS (immobilizer system) will prevent starting sooner. Do I need to jump the two black/yellow wires in EWS? or I don't start the car in right way, like I need to press clutch pedal or put the stick in neutral position. How can I find the reason for this? Any clue will be appreciated.

 

If you have not installed a clutch switch yet, then yes, you will need to jump the two thick black wires that come from the EWS. That will allow you to crank the engine, and it should start. However, you will be on "borrowed time" until you reprogram the DME. In other words, the car may start for weeks, moths, or days, until the EWS shuts you out. So, for peace of mind, get this done ASAP!

 

I don't install a clutch switch, so I tried to jump two thick black/yellow wires. I strip a little part of wires and then link them with a small wire. But the car still can't get a start. I am afraid that I did something wrong during the swap such as the connection for starter is not right. Probably I just need to do the reprogramming first. By the way, I do this work for a long time, almost tow month. I don't know whether this is a reason.

 

Have to ask the obvious questions: is the battery well charged up and there are good cable connections? Do you get lights on the speedo, etc when the key is turned? Does the car "chime" when the key is inserted and the driver's door is open? If so, try using a test light on each of the black/yellow wires from the EWS. With the test light grounded and the probe in the wire, it should light when you try to start the car. That tells you that electricity is going to the starter. If it is, then you may have another connection at the starter that is incorrect.

 

Wired everything up today - dealing with the DME connector is not for the faint of heart! I fumbled with it for what must have been 1-2 hours crouched over the engine bay. Some of the TFCs got misaligned and it was very difficult realigning them in their slots...but I did eventually get it.

Took it for a test drive and....cruise control is working! Works in 5th and 6th gear, but nothing lower.

I was expecting the start inhibit feature to start working also, but it is still not functional. Is that also the case with yours, Densmini?

Tried to take a lot of pictures - hope to post a how-to using most of Densmini's write up and my pictures soon.

 

Hmmm, now that's a mystery! My start inhibit worked as soon as I installed the clutch switch, and long before I took the plunge on the cruise control. With the key on, I can depress he clutch and hear the relay in the EWS clicking. Congrats on the working CC- and I look forward to the pix- I didn't have the presence of mind to photograph my venture. And since you mention it, I have never tried cruise in anything lower than 6th gear. I will tomorrow, though!

 

Well, doublechecked my connection to the EWS and I'm sure it's secure.

Wondering if any of the other connections are the culprits. Would CC still work without 5v going to the clutch switch? My guess is nothing would work without the 5v feeding the switch based on my understanding of the hall effect.

The other possibility is mine is programmed differently to have the EWS ignore clutch input. Was yours coded after you installed the clutch switch? I'll have to give Way a call to see what he thinks.

Sounds like you already had the EWS, 5V, and ground wired in and to get CC working, you added the wire to the DME. Is this the case?

 

Yes, I installed the clutch switch after programming. So, does your CC turn off if you depress the clutch?

 

It does. Everything related to CC is functional as expected - it's just the EWS start-inhibit that isn't working. I'm thinking it's likely a coding issue.

 

Or, as unlikely as it is, a duff relay in the EWS unit itself?

 

Certainly a possibility. Even recently had a relay get stuck closed in a power conditioner at home - seems rare, but happens.

I'll give Way a call to see if he thinks it might be a coding issue. If he says it's unlikely, I'm fine leaving it as is - cruise control is the real benefit from wiring this in!

 

Gave Way a call - he didn't think he'd be able to change the coding to make it functional.

Took another look at the wiring diagram for the EWS - pin 6 originally went to the CVT - did you do you do anything with that pin? It's probably already an open circuit since all the CVT stuff is gone...

 

Gknorr, I think that the circuit IS open- the plug for the GIU is pulled. I also pulled the fuse for the CVT shiftlock, and clipped the CVT wire from the DME.

 

Hi, everybody
I just check both black/yellow wires from the EWS, there is no current detected when I start the car. I do get light on speedo and "chime", the battery is good and checked by multimeter. So what will be the problem? Do I need get ECU reprogram done first?

 

Have you checked fuse F5 (5amp) in the footwell fusebox?

 

Pulled the shiftlock fuse. No difference. Haven't clipped the CVT wire from the DME. Are you referring to the wire coming out of pin 6 on the EWS?

 

the fuse is good. What can I do now? get very frustrating, already worked for almost 3 month.

 

Sorry you are having this problem, but it is time to go back to basics: if the fuse is good, do you have power to the fuse? If your black/yellow wires on the EWS aren't getting power, and your fuses are good, then something is disconnected somewhere. Do you have a good wiring diagram, a test light, a multimeter? If so you have some detective work in front of you. You mentioned some doubts about your wiring at the starter; are you certain that is as it should be? Sorry to ask such basic questions, but it seems likey that in the process of your swap you detached something somewhere that is the source of your woes.

 

Thank you for your prompt reply. I asked a friend who is mechanic to help me check the car. He said looks like a fuse doesn't work and then we checked all fuses are fine. And he said the same thing as your. First in all, I need to find a wiring diagram which unfortunately I don't have. Can you give me some idea where I can get this one? Thanks a lot. Another thing is we can send the current directly to the rellay of starter and bypass other stuff. Do you think that is OK? I got the EML light on, what meaning for this I don't know. It looks more time needed, any way let me find the wiring diagram first.