Busted CVT options
#105
05-16-2013, 06:20 PM
Alright so ive got this bad boy back on the road, been driving it for a week now runs great and the only issue is an airbag light thats on, but i dont know why. So now that im fairly certain this thing is pretty solid i would like to figure out this clutch switch and hopefully get cruise to work but im missing the clutch switch in my wiring diagram....
#108
05-17-2013, 06:57 AM
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If you can lay your hands on a Bentley, you will find the writing diagram for the clutch switch therein. There may be a PDF online somewhere...links, anyone?
Because the CVT lacks some of the actual wires in that area, you will have to make a few of your own. If I recall correctly, you'll have to tap into the brake pedal switch for some of your inputs. There is one tricky bit if you want crusie control: you'll have to run a wire from the proper terminal on the EWS to the proper terminal (pin) on the DME. Neither is present in the plastic connectors on either end, so you'll have to get some dinky ones, connect your wire, and fit them. I took them from the (now unused) connector for the CVT module under the dash to the right of the steering column. Then you'll need to fish it through the firewall, etc. The EWS end of things isn't hard. The DME...well, that's a different story. Let me know when you get that far, and I'll share my (partial) success story.
Because the CVT lacks some of the actual wires in that area, you will have to make a few of your own. If I recall correctly, you'll have to tap into the brake pedal switch for some of your inputs. There is one tricky bit if you want crusie control: you'll have to run a wire from the proper terminal on the EWS to the proper terminal (pin) on the DME. Neither is present in the plastic connectors on either end, so you'll have to get some dinky ones, connect your wire, and fit them. I took them from the (now unused) connector for the CVT module under the dash to the right of the steering column. Then you'll need to fish it through the firewall, etc. The EWS end of things isn't hard. The DME...well, that's a different story. Let me know when you get that far, and I'll share my (partial) success story.
#110
05-17-2013, 07:56 PM
#112
05-18-2013, 03:38 AM
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#113
05-26-2013, 12:08 AM
1st Gear
I am doing this this swap too and almost get this work finished. But I got a problem with driving axle (output shaft). I booked both sides driving axle from autozone for mini cooper S. But the the passenger side one doesn't have support bracket, so I reuse the bracket from the old one. And then I find the bracket can't be screwed into the position. I don't know it is the problem to driving axle or bracket. I need to finish this work in this week. Now the best way is to book the driving axle with bracket from website, please give me suggestions to get the right one. Thanks
#114
05-26-2013, 09:07 AM
I am doing this this swap too and almost get this work finished. But I got a problem with driving axle (output shaft). I booked both sides driving axle from autozone for mini cooper S. But the the passenger side one doesn't have support bracket, so I reuse the bracket from the old one. And then I find the bracket can't be screwed into the position. I don't know it is the problem to driving axle or bracket. I need to finish this work in this week. Now the best way is to book the driving axle with bracket from website, please give me suggestions to get the right one. Thanks
#115
05-26-2013, 01:32 PM
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#116
05-26-2013, 05:36 PM
1st Gear
After some research, I think it is bracket problem, because the new axle has 34 splines at transmission end which only can fit into 6MT transmission. The old bracket from CVT can't be used for 6MT transmission. Since there is no part number for bracket, I can't confirm this. But the bracket for 5MT and 6MT is same, that caused my mistake to reuse the old one from CVT. Now I need to order a axle assembly from some website. Hope this time everything will be OK. By the way, the bracket can only be installed in one way and can't be upside down. Thanks a lot for your suggestion.
#117
05-31-2013, 01:31 PM
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Here is my attempt at writing up the connection needed to enable cruise control after swapping a manual trans into your ex-CVT. Comments and suggestions for improvement welcome:
After you have had someone reprogram your DME from CVT to manual, you will need a clutch signal from pin 2 on the Clutch Switch to pin 85 on the DME (Wiring diagram pin 4 in the Bentley).
Although it is not the focus of this write-up, naturally you will need to fit a clutch switch and wire it up.
Tools: some very small screwdrivers, soldering stuff, wire stripping tool, a tweezers or thin needle-nose pliers, good flashlight and I STRONGLY recommend some kind of magnification for the fine work.
Parts: 22 ga. Wire, and 2 tiny female connectors (TFC), some zip-ties.
1) If you are careful you can remove as many TFC as you need from the now unemployed CVT module under the dash to the right of the steering column. The module’s "plug" is blue and is full of TFCs. Pick a wire color you like, cut the wire leaving a couple inches to work with. Use a tiny screwdriver to depress the retaining spring on the TFC and slide it out of the plug in the direction of the wire.
2) Run your choice of wire through your choice of hole in the firewall. Once through, make sure you have enough length to run from the EWS to the DME with a bit to spare, then zip-tie it to the harness running to the DME.
3) Disconnect the battery. Wait a couple of minutes. Remove the smaller of the two big plugs going into the DME. Got your magnifying glass? Good. Next is the fiddly part:
4) That big ol’ plug has a black plastic cap that is secured to the harness by a zip tie. Cut the zip tie and lift up on that end of the plug until it pops free (it’s also held in by a couple of tabs that go into slots at the other end and two more tab-and slot deals on each side). You will see a bunch of wires all crowded into a small space. All those little wires disappear through a rectangular grey plastic piece full of holes. Take note of the wires at the front left corner. Starting from the front and working toward the rear of the car, on the leftmost row of wires, there should be a wire in the first hole and the second hole, but none in the next two holes. The 4th hole is your goal because it corresponds to pin 85.
Now have a look into the socket on the DME you just pulled that plug from. You will see a very small 82 in the lower left corner in the base of that socket. That means pin 82. The pin to right is 83, and so on. Pin 85 is the clutch input signal and that is the one you are concerned with.
So to recap, your ambition is to put a tiny female connector inside the big plug that lines up with pin 85.
5) Here’s how you do that and it will require patience: That grey plastic piece you noticed earlier? It can be carefully levered upward using a small screwdriver. A spritz of silicone lube on the wires helps. It is about ½ inch or so thick, so it will keep sliding up for a while. Take your time, working all around each edge in turn. On some there are little tabs on the sides that serve as mild retaining clips- I broke mine (clumsy) with no ill effects. Your goal is to get it at least ¾ of an inch above the hole it came out of, so you can work under it. This may require gently “untwisting” the maze of wires running into the connector to straighten them a little and ease the grey piece’s journey.
Underneath it is an orange rubber water seal. You can carefully slide this up, too.
Now you should be able to look down into the 4th hole/pin 85. Starting from below the orange seal, push the wire on the TFC you clipped earlier through the 4th hole in the orange seal up through the 4th hole in the grey piece.
6) Moving to the underside of the big plug, you will notice another orange rubber water seal and just below it there should be a blue plastic bit on each end of the big plug. Don’t concern yourself with the one on the end with the bigger terminals.
Using your itty-bitty screwdriver again, you can gently lever that blue plastic piece until it slides out. It’s about an inch long, and it serves to lock all those many TFCs in place, so don’t get muscular here. A delicate touch is called for; you don’t want any other TFCs popping out (ask me how I know this), you just want to pop one in! The TFCs are also retained by their little springs in the black base but there’s no sense taking chances.
7) Slide the blue piece out and prepare to insert your new TFC into slot 4/pin 85. If you have a tweezers or a thin needle nose pliers and magnification it helps with this step. Slide the TFC into the pin 85 slot in the black base. When you do, make sure the little retaining spring is facing the outside of the big connector so it clicks into place. Using a flashlight and some magnification, you’ll see the way the rest of the pins are oriented and you can match them. You should also triple check you have the right hole! (You should only have two to choose from). Once it’s in place, slide the blue plastic bit back in. Gently push the orange water seal back into the big plug, and the grey piece back on top of that.
IF you realize with horror that you just clicked into the wrong slot, don’t panic. On the bottom (DME side) of that big plug there are VERY small slots next to the pin openings. Slide something like a welding tip cleaner or straight pin into that little slot until the TFC lets go. Tug it out by the wire and reposition it.
8) Solder the bit of wire with the TFC to the wire you ran through the firewall- come on, splash out on some nice heat shrink tubing!
9) Replace the black plastic cover over that bundle of wires- you may have to re-twist them to get them all to fit- and secure it with a zip-tie.
10) Replace the big plug into the DME and move to the Clutch switch. The other end of your new wire goes to terminal 2 on the wire coming out of that switch. Now you will need to do a similar but less complicated version of the procedure you just finished with wire on the switch that corresponds to pin 4 (on the switch). You must fit a TFC into the plug that goes into the EWS. Pull the plug out and confirm the hole for pin 8 on the EWS.
The EWS has its pins numbered just like the DME: using a magnifier and a flashlight, you’ll see the numbers next to the pins: the two big ones are 1 & 2, then a slightly smaller one, 3, and then a batch of tiny ones. Count to number 8: your pin. Look at the plug and you’ll figure out how your new little female connector goes in.
Solder that bad boy to the other end of the wire to your clutch switch (which is, we assume, otherwise correctly hooked up), reconnect your battery and go for a drive, enjoying the smooth ease of cruise control once again.
After you have had someone reprogram your DME from CVT to manual, you will need a clutch signal from pin 2 on the Clutch Switch to pin 85 on the DME (Wiring diagram pin 4 in the Bentley).
Although it is not the focus of this write-up, naturally you will need to fit a clutch switch and wire it up.
Tools: some very small screwdrivers, soldering stuff, wire stripping tool, a tweezers or thin needle-nose pliers, good flashlight and I STRONGLY recommend some kind of magnification for the fine work.
Parts: 22 ga. Wire, and 2 tiny female connectors (TFC), some zip-ties.
1) If you are careful you can remove as many TFC as you need from the now unemployed CVT module under the dash to the right of the steering column. The module’s "plug" is blue and is full of TFCs. Pick a wire color you like, cut the wire leaving a couple inches to work with. Use a tiny screwdriver to depress the retaining spring on the TFC and slide it out of the plug in the direction of the wire.
2) Run your choice of wire through your choice of hole in the firewall. Once through, make sure you have enough length to run from the EWS to the DME with a bit to spare, then zip-tie it to the harness running to the DME.
3) Disconnect the battery. Wait a couple of minutes. Remove the smaller of the two big plugs going into the DME. Got your magnifying glass? Good. Next is the fiddly part:
4) That big ol’ plug has a black plastic cap that is secured to the harness by a zip tie. Cut the zip tie and lift up on that end of the plug until it pops free (it’s also held in by a couple of tabs that go into slots at the other end and two more tab-and slot deals on each side). You will see a bunch of wires all crowded into a small space. All those little wires disappear through a rectangular grey plastic piece full of holes. Take note of the wires at the front left corner. Starting from the front and working toward the rear of the car, on the leftmost row of wires, there should be a wire in the first hole and the second hole, but none in the next two holes. The 4th hole is your goal because it corresponds to pin 85.
Now have a look into the socket on the DME you just pulled that plug from. You will see a very small 82 in the lower left corner in the base of that socket. That means pin 82. The pin to right is 83, and so on. Pin 85 is the clutch input signal and that is the one you are concerned with.
So to recap, your ambition is to put a tiny female connector inside the big plug that lines up with pin 85.
5) Here’s how you do that and it will require patience: That grey plastic piece you noticed earlier? It can be carefully levered upward using a small screwdriver. A spritz of silicone lube on the wires helps. It is about ½ inch or so thick, so it will keep sliding up for a while. Take your time, working all around each edge in turn. On some there are little tabs on the sides that serve as mild retaining clips- I broke mine (clumsy) with no ill effects. Your goal is to get it at least ¾ of an inch above the hole it came out of, so you can work under it. This may require gently “untwisting” the maze of wires running into the connector to straighten them a little and ease the grey piece’s journey.
Underneath it is an orange rubber water seal. You can carefully slide this up, too.
Now you should be able to look down into the 4th hole/pin 85. Starting from below the orange seal, push the wire on the TFC you clipped earlier through the 4th hole in the orange seal up through the 4th hole in the grey piece.
6) Moving to the underside of the big plug, you will notice another orange rubber water seal and just below it there should be a blue plastic bit on each end of the big plug. Don’t concern yourself with the one on the end with the bigger terminals.
Using your itty-bitty screwdriver again, you can gently lever that blue plastic piece until it slides out. It’s about an inch long, and it serves to lock all those many TFCs in place, so don’t get muscular here. A delicate touch is called for; you don’t want any other TFCs popping out (ask me how I know this), you just want to pop one in! The TFCs are also retained by their little springs in the black base but there’s no sense taking chances.
7) Slide the blue piece out and prepare to insert your new TFC into slot 4/pin 85. If you have a tweezers or a thin needle nose pliers and magnification it helps with this step. Slide the TFC into the pin 85 slot in the black base. When you do, make sure the little retaining spring is facing the outside of the big connector so it clicks into place. Using a flashlight and some magnification, you’ll see the way the rest of the pins are oriented and you can match them. You should also triple check you have the right hole! (You should only have two to choose from). Once it’s in place, slide the blue plastic bit back in. Gently push the orange water seal back into the big plug, and the grey piece back on top of that.
IF you realize with horror that you just clicked into the wrong slot, don’t panic. On the bottom (DME side) of that big plug there are VERY small slots next to the pin openings. Slide something like a welding tip cleaner or straight pin into that little slot until the TFC lets go. Tug it out by the wire and reposition it.
8) Solder the bit of wire with the TFC to the wire you ran through the firewall- come on, splash out on some nice heat shrink tubing!
9) Replace the black plastic cover over that bundle of wires- you may have to re-twist them to get them all to fit- and secure it with a zip-tie.
10) Replace the big plug into the DME and move to the Clutch switch. The other end of your new wire goes to terminal 2 on the wire coming out of that switch. Now you will need to do a similar but less complicated version of the procedure you just finished with wire on the switch that corresponds to pin 4 (on the switch). You must fit a TFC into the plug that goes into the EWS. Pull the plug out and confirm the hole for pin 8 on the EWS.
The EWS has its pins numbered just like the DME: using a magnifier and a flashlight, you’ll see the numbers next to the pins: the two big ones are 1 & 2, then a slightly smaller one, 3, and then a batch of tiny ones. Count to number 8: your pin. Look at the plug and you’ll figure out how your new little female connector goes in.
Solder that bad boy to the other end of the wire to your clutch switch (which is, we assume, otherwise correctly hooked up), reconnect your battery and go for a drive, enjoying the smooth ease of cruise control once again.
Last edited by Densmini; 06-19-2013 at 05:49 PM. Reason: I made two errors: confusing the EWS and Clutch Switch connections and pin numbers. .
#118
05-31-2013, 06:25 PM
#121
06-19-2013, 09:29 AM
Looking at the wiring diagrams (link below), it looks like additional wires will need to be snapped into the DME and EWS. Did you do this as well?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tch_wiring.pdf
#122
06-19-2013, 10:02 AM
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As per the write-up above, I did put new connectors into the EWS and DME and a wire between them, and a connector and wire between EWS and clutch switch. I got the connector for the clutch switch when I ordered the clutch switch from someone parting out their MINI. I asked pretty please and they threw in the harness for free. Then I just used the wiring diagram to find out where to tap those wires into the loom near the brake pedal switch.
#123
06-19-2013, 10:34 AM
As per the write-up above, I did put new connectors into the EWS and DME and a wire between them, and a connector and wire between EWS and clutch switch. I got the connector for the clutch switch when I ordered the clutch switch from someone parting out their MINI. I asked pretty please and they threw in the harness for free. Then I just used the wiring diagram to find out where to tap those wires into the loom near the brake pedal switch.
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/2853...s-61116911072/
Based on what I'm reading in the write-up, you basically connected EWS pin 4 to DME pin 85.
Wiring the clutch switch (not in your write-up) in would involve the following connections if I'm not mistaken:
pin 1 to ground
pin 2 to DME pin 4
pin 3 to Connector X10200 pin 3 (not sure what this connector is)
pin 4 to EWS pin 8
Did you previously wire these in as well?
#124
06-19-2013, 11:03 AM
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