pw4, thanks! I just ordered a CAI and had always wondered about tuning an MC. And then I found this thread.

Only problem is I'm not in *tune* with the terminology. I followed Oxy's link to Upsolete for $$$ reasons - if PowerChip is a grand, I'm out. But when I got to the pricing page, I didn't understand what I was looking at.

Tuningchip Standard 350
Tuningchip Gold Class 499
Tuningchip Platinum Class 699
Installation (included) 0,- 0,-
Remote switch(if applicable) 150,-
Pop-Off "Eco Pop" (excl. installation) 140,-
Pop-Off "Racing Pop" (excl. installation) 199,-

I don't understand the different *classes*. I don't understand the last 3 items on the list. And I definitely don't understand the installation process.

I do understand 132 hp, though! Thanks for a brief education if you can.

 

I was recently in Charlotte, NC and contacted Andre, the Director of Upsolute North America about tuning my 2009 R56 JustaCooper. When I had arrived, he was unable to read my ECU via the diagnostic port and suggested removing the ECU. Ultimately, after taking the ECU apart and speaking with the Upsolute programmers in Austria, it was concluded that they were unable to tune my car. Not sure if all R56's are unable to be flashed, or if I just had a freak model for my ECU -- he did quote me $400 for the tune though had it of been successful.

 

oldspice:
Unlike the Cooper S, the R56 Justa seems to be especially hard to reprogram. (I can't speak for the LCI though, but the non-turbo engine wasn't changed much for the LCI upgrade.) It took PowerChip ages to sort out how to do mine. After a while, it "threw a code" (ie set an engine fault code) which shut down everything. I must say PowerChip were supportive. Some months later the ECU was zapped entirely - don't know if it had anything to do with the retune, but I wasn't going to take any risks and took the stock replacement. For the cost and relatively small improvement, it's not worth the risk of breaking down. I'd have to say if you want a bit brighter performance, just go with a good CAI. If you want more, upgrade to an S. Which you can see from my signature panel I did.
Incidentally, the K&N CAI itself seems quite good, but the flexible tube distintegrates and clogs the filter. I now do without (car is loud but sounds fabulous!); alternatively, VIP Custom Parts in Arizona does an intake pipe that looks very high quality (I can vouch for their driving light mounts.)


albiecrazy
Just noticed you hadn't received any replies from your post months back. Sorry if you were waiting on me. I don't know that brand's categories, but some of them (eg pop-off) look very turbo.

 

I am reviving this thread in hope of any new information, experiences, products since the earlier discussion. I'm not expecting "S" performance from a "Straight Cooper" or to kill the engine, I am just looking for a couple or so extra ponies under my right foot. (I am especially interested in what WayMotorWorks might have to contribute... How 'bout it Way?)
Anyone?

 

Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z...
(snore, snore...)
Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z...
(snore, snore...)

 

Nothing much to add to my note below. The CAI definitely made the car feel a bit sharper, and the remap made about the same amount of difference again on top of that. But the remap was something like 5x the cost, so in hindsight I don't think it was worth it. The CAI was.

I can add: running the CAI with the tube to the front of the car necessitates a smaller inlet opening at the CAI itself, but it gets colder (ie denser) air. Running without the tube gives you a bigger (and louder) inlet, but it's picking up hot air from around the engine. I think the latter gives slightly better performance.

I agree with you - a performance level between the Cooper and S would suit me very well. I used to have a similar-sized Ford Fiesta ST/XR4 with a 2-litre atmo engine of 107 KW and that was ideal I thought.

 

Hi,

I am going with reducing unspring weight (10 lbs. per corner) and overall wheel/tire diameter (2") before looking at a CAI/exhaust (might save this until exhaust goes ex-warranty) in the hope that "perhaps" I will be able to take an unmodified automatic convertible "S" that has a heavy 18" wheel/tire combo in a 0-60 battle

Here are the specifics:

Konig Backbones (12.8 lbs.) + Toyos Proxes T1-R (or Tr-1 - the cheap ones for $63) (15.7 lbs.) = 28.5 lbs./wheel VERSUS my current set-up of 16" Konig Feathers (15.2 lbs.) + Falkens (23 lbs.) = 38.2 lbs.:

So my new set-up will save me 9.7 lbs. per wheel!!! Not to mention the acceleration associated with dropping wheel diameter from 24.6" to 22" Possible that some "S"s might have 55lbs. per corner.

From previous reading it seems this lighter/smaller wheel setup might produce a .3s (lighter wheels) + .3s difference (smaller diameter) in 0-60 - so maybe a 7.9 or 8.0 time? A laden convertible with big wheels/tires might do a sluggish 7.0?

Just my thoughts.

Tim

 

I've been thinking about going with light 15"s. I won't be racing anyone, Cooper S or otherwise, but I do always enjoy some quick acceleration. I like the look of the Backbones, too, except I am starting to hate the "multifit" hole pattern on my current Konigs. I'd like something that looks more purpose-built for my car.

 

pw4:

Thanks for waking me up for the follow-up... I appreciate your response.

I have a high end intake (drawing from an intake tube behind the grille) and a high end cat-back exhaust system on the car (and have gotten great results) and can't help but wonder if the CPU could be reprogrammed to take more advantage of these modifications and at the same time maybe pinch a little more punch out of the stock normally aspirated engine in the process.

One of the tuning company's people told me that the OEM CPU has already adjusted itself to the intake/exhaust modifications I have done, stating that it is "very adaptable" and I am already receiving the maximum gains.

But, all things considered, I wouldn't mind paying $500 or so for a reset/tune, for maybe 10 whp more or so on top of whatever the intake and exhaust has already possibly provided... That is if it actually works, is permanent, and doesn't affect the dependability of the car. Not sure if I would go $1000, but admittedly, I done far crazier things with more money in my life. (And of course for $1000 I would expect pre/post dyno grafts included to provide evidence as to what I just paid for...)

Let me know if you hear anything new on this subject.

And the search goes on...

Take care and enjoy your car(s).

 

What size are you current Feathers? I think the 15" Backbones just have 4 holes?