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Mini Problem - this is just plain weird

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Old May 7, 2006 | 02:16 PM
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Mini Problem - this is just plain weird

So, my classic Austin Mini MKIII has been running fine for a few months so it's about time something goes haywire.

Yesterday I was driving along, doing just fine. I start smellng a little more exhaust than usual, the engine get's louder and I hear a rattle when I press on the gas. Other than the rattle it seems like an exhaust leak. I was thinking maybe it was an exhaust leak and that something came loose in the manifold or something. I didn't have time to mess with it yesterday so I went out to look at it just now.

Well after inspecting the manifold and exhaust everything looks tight and there's no exhaust fume (more than usual) coming from the engine bay.

Tried to take it for a test drive. I now park the car in an underground garage with a 30ft exit ramp with about a 20-25 degree grade. The car drives fine (except for the louder exhaust and the rattle) until I get to the ramp. The car dies trying to pull itself up the ramp.

I ended up getting it up the ramp using the e-brake and really reving it up then took it right back down and parked it.

Any thoughts?
 
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Old May 7, 2006 | 03:36 PM
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You should have no exhaust fumes from the engine bay. Have you inspected the front manifold pipe to see if it is cracked down towards the bend where it is supposed to be bolted to the differential housing?
 
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Old May 7, 2006 | 04:01 PM
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it's more of a fuel smell. the manifold is new. i hope it's not cracked! where exactly should i be looking? i looked at the top where it comes out the head and at the bottom where it connects to the straight pipe.
 
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Old May 7, 2006 | 10:37 PM
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When was the last time your car was given a tuneup? Could be something like the condenser in the distributor...but that wouldn't really explain the exhaust smell - I'd be guessing more like Minimad and saying it's an exhaust leak. That shouldn't explain the lost of power though, should it? I mean... in my (small) brain I'd think it would have to be a pretty big leak in the exhaust to do something like you're describing.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 04:45 AM
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pull the valve cover & see if one of the rockers is loose/tight or not moving like the others. Less messy if you dissable the coil so it doesn't start.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 08:49 AM
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after a call to my mechanic, he thinks it may be a broken motor mount. since when the care is idling everything seems to be right. if i lean on the gas or try to drive it, that's when the problems appear.

regardless or what it is, it's outside of my limited capabilities so, it's on a trailer on it's way to the shop.

hopefully i'll get it back for the 19th. i'm going to take it to an outside film festival where i'm gonna drive in to the middle of the crowd with 4 female models crammed in dressed like characters from the movies.
 
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Old May 9, 2006 | 03:31 PM
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Sounds like an air leak at the intake manifold.
 
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Old May 9, 2006 | 03:35 PM
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my mechanic says he thinks it's a stuck or broken valve. he will know more when he get's it apart.
 
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Old May 10, 2006 | 09:41 AM
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OK, something is funny with the exhaust?? Car chokes down and won't pull itself?? Is this a late car with a converter? Any chance of something restricting the exhaust?
 
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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:24 AM
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well, after removal of the head, the final determination is that the head gasket was blown between 3 & 4.

EDIT: more accurate description of problem
 
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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:57 AM
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Was the oil milky?

Originally Posted by STLMINI
well, after removal of the head, the final determination is that the head gasket was blown. cylinder 2 & 3 were leaking all over the place.
Did water get into the oil - that's a common tell tail sign of this ...oil turns milky because of an emulsion forming

curious to know if this symptom was NOT there ...
 
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Old May 11, 2006 | 09:04 AM
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That depends on exactly where the blowout is. I've seen cases where a blown head gasket didn't happen to go into any of the oil passages. Very rare.
Usually, a blown head gasket means you have to do an oil change to get rid of the "milky" oil.
 
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Old May 11, 2006 | 09:40 AM
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That's why I asked

Originally Posted by Agro
That depends on exactly where the blowout is. I've seen cases where a blown head gasket didn't happen to go into any of the oil passages. Very rare.
Usually, a blown head gasket means you have to do an oil change to get rid of the "milky" oil.
That's why I'm curious - I've counted on this being at least 90% accurate - exceptions to every rule tho....
 
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:01 AM
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i'll ask and get back to ya. i would guess that i caught this so early that even if there was some water, it wouldn't be much.

mike
 
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Old May 11, 2006 | 11:03 AM
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Doesn't hurt anything....

Originally Posted by STLMINI
i'll ask and get back to ya. i would guess that i caught this so early that even if there was some water, it wouldn't be much.

mike
ya - caught quick doesn't hurt anything, just means an oil and filter change - maybe a flush if you are worried. (that is, in addition to the gasket issue itself)

I check my oil as much for this sign as for the level...
 
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Old May 11, 2006 | 11:27 AM
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And if the break goes into a cylinder, you'll usually get clouds of white smoke out the exhaust.
 
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Old May 11, 2006 | 11:41 AM
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ouch

Originally Posted by Agro
And if the break goes into a cylinder, you'll usually get clouds of white smoke out the exhaust.
now I'm gonna have bad dreams tonite....
 
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Old May 11, 2006 | 03:01 PM
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ok, just ran out to the shop. the breach was only in the gasket not the head. it was between the 3rd and 4th heads and there was no water in the oil. also, no clouds of white smoke.

here's the question now...

to replace the gasket (including oil change, filter, radiator flush, etc) my estimate is for $400. after inspecting the head, the valves have already been ground down so if something goes wrong with the valves, it's replace not repair to the tune of $300 - $400 in the next 10 - 15k miles. or it could happen next week. who knows.

the mechanic has a beautifully rebuilt cooper s head available in stock for $500.00 plus $300 - $400 labor. from my understanding, it will boost my top end power, plus add some reliability. it's a 12g295 casting if that means anything to ya.

anyway, i was thinking i'd go ahead and spring for the rebuilt higher-performance head. what the hell.

thoughts?
 
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Old May 12, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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my 2 cents.....

my 2 cents...and not worth that...

ya....I'd jump to the new head

IF you trust this guy.....

I mean TRUST....get a warranty....

I think 6 months is reasonable.....

I'd try - I wouldn't get it...and I'd still buy the head...but advice is cheap
 
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Old May 12, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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i trust this guy and he stands behind his work. i'll get the car back on tuesday and will report back.
 
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Old May 12, 2006 | 11:44 PM
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I hope your car is not a big bore (970cc,1071, or 1275cc) engine. If it is, a 12G295 (998cc Cooper, or austin 1100) head won't work.

dr dave
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 07:56 PM
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it's a 998 and my mechanic wouldn't have suggested it if it didn't work. thanks tho.
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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well, i got the car back in addition to the cooper head, i needed a thermostat and a water pump pully. also, radiator was flushed and new coolant, oil and filter.

result... AMAZING! the car didn't lose and low end... in fact, there's a little more! and high end? forget about it. it easily revs in to the 6000s. it drived great. it cost me $800 but it drives like a 1275 now.

wow!
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 05:24 AM
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Good news - bad news

Yep

I had a similar reaction after getting a tune up and some new wheel bearings

WOW

that's the good news

the bad is "now what should I do for the next fix?"

btw - I just got the July Mini World - one of the tech articles is about which heads are good for which blocks .... kinda late but you might want to take a look just for giggles....
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 03:57 PM
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i just bought it a few days ago. good article.
 
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