First time driving Mini to work...hmmm
First time driving Mini to work...hmmm
Well, I FINALLY picked up the car today a drove to work and I have a few questions...If they sound dumb I don't care I need to know the answer
1. What is the top speed of a stock mini?
I ask because once i switched to fourth gear it seemed that the motor was already in the high RPM range. 45 Mph the car sounds like it reving at 4K rpm.
2. I see an indicator for temp.....mine is reading above normal towards the H do Mini's normally run in this rage?
3. The brakes on this thing are HORRIBLE. I stop like a freight train....I'm sure this is not normal...right?
4. How do you turn of the heat?
5. What are all the buttons for? (I will get a picture of those later today)
6. What kind of gas is the best for it?
1. What is the top speed of a stock mini?
I ask because once i switched to fourth gear it seemed that the motor was already in the high RPM range. 45 Mph the car sounds like it reving at 4K rpm.
2. I see an indicator for temp.....mine is reading above normal towards the H do Mini's normally run in this rage?
3. The brakes on this thing are HORRIBLE. I stop like a freight train....I'm sure this is not normal...right?
4. How do you turn of the heat?
5. What are all the buttons for? (I will get a picture of those later today)
6. What kind of gas is the best for it?
It would help if you gave a little more information abour your Mini.
1) Top Speed - I've had my 998 A+ up to 90mph. Cruises all day at 75.
2) No, it's not normal. You're running a little hot. Could be clogged radiator, loose belt or.... have it looked at. Consider replacing radiator with Super 2 core from Mini Spares.
3) Do you have drum brakes or disc brakes. If drum -look into replacing with disc brakes. If you have 10" wheels then replace with Cooper S 7.5" disc or 8.4" if you run 12/13" wheels.
4) Shut off the water valve. Some were cable operated and some had manual shut off valves. If you shut off water valve engine temp may rise higher.
5) Buttons/Switches - lights, heater, brake warning etc.
6) Super Unleaded.
Visit www.minimania.com and join the Mini Community
1) Top Speed - I've had my 998 A+ up to 90mph. Cruises all day at 75.
2) No, it's not normal. You're running a little hot. Could be clogged radiator, loose belt or.... have it looked at. Consider replacing radiator with Super 2 core from Mini Spares.
3) Do you have drum brakes or disc brakes. If drum -look into replacing with disc brakes. If you have 10" wheels then replace with Cooper S 7.5" disc or 8.4" if you run 12/13" wheels.
4) Shut off the water valve. Some were cable operated and some had manual shut off valves. If you shut off water valve engine temp may rise higher.
5) Buttons/Switches - lights, heater, brake warning etc.
6) Super Unleaded.
Visit www.minimania.com and join the Mini Community
Originally Posted by John Smith
1. What is the top speed of a stock mini?
I ask because once i switched to fourth gear it seemed that the motor was already in the high RPM range. 45 Mph the car sounds like it reving at 4K rpm.
2. I see an indicator for temp.....mine is reading above normal towards the H do Mini's normally run in this rage?
3. The brakes on this thing are HORRIBLE. I stop like a freight train....I'm sure this is not normal...right?
4. How do you turn of the heat?
I ask because once i switched to fourth gear it seemed that the motor was already in the high RPM range. 45 Mph the car sounds like it reving at 4K rpm.
2. I see an indicator for temp.....mine is reading above normal towards the H do Mini's normally run in this rage?
3. The brakes on this thing are HORRIBLE. I stop like a freight train....I'm sure this is not normal...right?
4. How do you turn of the heat?

http://www.gbmini.net/gallery/MOT200...ICT0356?full=1
The owner said it needs a tune up and that when they got it off the boat they didn't do anything but add oil and gas and drove it...So a tune up is in order. After that I think things will shape up.
Thanks for the repsonses.....and it's a 77 Leyland Mini in poor condition.
What other information would you like?
Thanks for the repsonses.....and it's a 77 Leyland Mini in poor condition.
What other information would you like?
Judging from the pictures you posted earlier, people who let a car rust away as badly as they did yours are usually not very concerned with how the mechanicals are doing either, check EVERYTHING out first,
My 1275 turns 4,100 rpm at 75 mph,
rarely gets above the halway point on the temp. gauge, even in traffic with the A/C running, I'm in the deep south and it's HOT here too.
Check to see if the cable that operates the heater valve is connected, control **** on mine is pushed in for off.
check the brake pads or shoes, check brake fluid level.
How does the inside of the radiator cap look ?, sludgy ?, rusty ?, try flushing it and refilling, I guess I should of asked if you did all this before you started driving it, Good luck, you'll get it figured out.
My 1275 turns 4,100 rpm at 75 mph,
rarely gets above the halway point on the temp. gauge, even in traffic with the A/C running, I'm in the deep south and it's HOT here too.
Check to see if the cable that operates the heater valve is connected, control **** on mine is pushed in for off.
check the brake pads or shoes, check brake fluid level.
How does the inside of the radiator cap look ?, sludgy ?, rusty ?, try flushing it and refilling, I guess I should of asked if you did all this before you started driving it, Good luck, you'll get it figured out.
The Mini Bit me today!!!
Yeah I was backing up into my Garage and the WOOD trim on the door does not feel good when you hit it with you elbow!!! I said a few choice words..then backed it on up...LOL!!It drove fine from work (in the oh my gosh rain storm we just had) just fine the temp stayed down because of the rain and the car ran great. The guys at work made fun of me for about two hours about the car...it was all in good fun. Being the military guy I am it looks strange seeing me in a car so small but I like it.....I was stopped at an entry control point by some guy and he told me (ten minutes) how much he wanted one of these. Then once at work one of my co workers who did not know I had the car came back in and asked who's mini it was and where did I get it....and he too talked to me for a few mins about how he wanted a Mini.....I like the attention.
Tommorow I will be doing a complete tune up and checking all that needs immediate attetion so I can keep it on the road for the next 2 months until I can start the restoration.
Anything special I need to check on this car other thanthe norm?
1. What is the top speed of a stock mini?
I ask because once i switched to fourth gear it seemed that the motor was already in the high RPM range. 45 Mph the car sounds like it reving at 4K rpm.
2. I see an indicator for temp.....mine is reading above normal towards the H do Mini's normally run in this rage?
3. The brakes on this thing are HORRIBLE. I stop like a freight train....I'm sure this is not normal...right?
4. How do you turn of the heat?
5. What are all the buttons for? (I will get a picture of those later today)
6. What kind of gas is the best for it?
I ask because once i switched to fourth gear it seemed that the motor was already in the high RPM range. 45 Mph the car sounds like it reving at 4K rpm.
2. I see an indicator for temp.....mine is reading above normal towards the H do Mini's normally run in this rage?
3. The brakes on this thing are HORRIBLE. I stop like a freight train....I'm sure this is not normal...right?
4. How do you turn of the heat?
5. What are all the buttons for? (I will get a picture of those later today)
6. What kind of gas is the best for it?
2. Flush cooling system including heater core. Check hoses esp water pump bypass, fan belt adj, etc. Use 75% H2O/25% anti-freeze. Add Water Wetter see AutoZone. Check rad cap - 13# cap. Check t-stat 165' for summer or blanking sleeve. Don't run w/o one of these.
3. I assume drums. Remove drums, free adjusters (yes they'll be rusted), Brake-Kleen everything, check wheel cylinders for leaks. Re-assemble & adjust. You must keep them adjusted on an ongoing basis to be effective. Do not expect multiple panic stops from this system...if you go to a 1275 motor change out to disc brakes.
4. Valve at back of head is operated by cable with "fan" pattern on it. Pull it out to shut water off. (yeah, I know it sounds backwards)
5. from LLEFT TO RIGHT- Choke cable pull, emergency flasher switch, (blank or heated rear window switch), brake failure test switch & warning light, lighting switch, heater control cable
left stalk wipers/washers
right stalk turn signals (up/down), hi beams (forward) & horn (push)
6. Premium.
If the car is from the UK expect that they've never actually changed the oil or radiator fluid. They prefer to top it off
Go thru the car thoroughly for all safety & PM items.
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Originally Posted by Minimad
1. Small bores will run at higher rpm, but its best for long term wear to keep the speeds within limits. 65mph is plenty (4,000-4,400 rpm)
2. Flush cooling system including heater core. Check hoses esp water pump bypass, fan belt adj, etc. Use 75% H2O/25% anti-freeze. Add Water Wetter see AutoZone. Check rad cap - 13# cap. Check t-stat 165' for summer or blanking sleeve. Don't run w/o one of these.
3. I assume drums. Remove drums, free adjusters (yes they'll be rusted), Brake-Kleen everything, check wheel cylinders for leaks. Re-assemble & adjust. You must keep them adjusted on an ongoing basis to be effective. Do not expect multiple panic stops from this system...if you go to a 1275 motor change out to disc brakes.
4. Valve at back of head is operated by cable with "fan" pattern on it. Pull it out to shut water off. (yeah, I know it sounds backwards)
5. from LLEFT TO RIGHT- Choke cable pull, emergency flasher switch, (blank or heated rear window switch), brake failure test switch & warning light, lighting switch, heater control cable
left stalk wipers/washers
right stalk turn signals (up/down), hi beams (forward) & horn (push)
6. Premium.
If the car is from the UK expect that they've never actually changed the oil or radiator fluid. They prefer to top it off
Go thru the car thoroughly for all safety & PM items.
2. Flush cooling system including heater core. Check hoses esp water pump bypass, fan belt adj, etc. Use 75% H2O/25% anti-freeze. Add Water Wetter see AutoZone. Check rad cap - 13# cap. Check t-stat 165' for summer or blanking sleeve. Don't run w/o one of these.
3. I assume drums. Remove drums, free adjusters (yes they'll be rusted), Brake-Kleen everything, check wheel cylinders for leaks. Re-assemble & adjust. You must keep them adjusted on an ongoing basis to be effective. Do not expect multiple panic stops from this system...if you go to a 1275 motor change out to disc brakes.
4. Valve at back of head is operated by cable with "fan" pattern on it. Pull it out to shut water off. (yeah, I know it sounds backwards)
5. from LLEFT TO RIGHT- Choke cable pull, emergency flasher switch, (blank or heated rear window switch), brake failure test switch & warning light, lighting switch, heater control cable
left stalk wipers/washers
right stalk turn signals (up/down), hi beams (forward) & horn (push)
6. Premium.
If the car is from the UK expect that they've never actually changed the oil or radiator fluid. They prefer to top it off
Go thru the car thoroughly for all safety & PM items.but what's the diff? you're tearing this down and saving nothing more than the shell, right? New engine, new frame, new panels, new interior
Your choice....but why ask a bunch of questions about how to make a classic run if you plan to replace everything other than the shell?
Heck, I'm trying to figure out why you don't just buy a new shell...which are readily available...and build a counterfit from there.
btw....I'm not dis'ing you. It's just that having heard your plans (twice) I can't understand what having a severely rusted original shell buys you. You won't have very much of it left when you are done.
Buy a copy of MiniWorld,,,,,refurb shells are readily available.
"but what's the diff? you're tearing this down and saving nothing more than the shell, right? New engine, new frame, new panels, new interior"
Yeap you got me there
panels and intereior will be mostly original. Engine will be different and the chassis will be custom.
Until I'm ready to take the plunge I will continue to ask questions about the upkeep of my Mini.
"Your choice....but why ask a bunch of questions about how to make a classic run if you plan to replace everything other than the shell?"
Because I'm driving it to and from work everyday AS IS and I need this car to be Dependable! I'm not ready to do all that..I have an 1967 VW to finish restoring first for my wife....that may be a month from now or 6 months from now...Heck it could be longer if i get deployed to Iraq again!
"I can't understand what having a severely rusted original shell buys you. You won't have very much of it left when you are done."
Satisfaction in knowing that I can work metal to a degree that transforms "Severely rusted" to WOW!! that is nice!
If I don't do something with it there won't be much left anyway because the rust would take over and it would be in a junkyard.
I'm not trying to make anyone look bad here...
The only thing to understand is that everyone here has added a personel touch when it comes to their Minis and we all don't ask "Why your doing this or that"....we just except the fact that they appreciate the car enough to have one....it's just my personel touch runs deeper than most....but it dosen't change anything it's still a Mini.
Yeap you got me there
Until I'm ready to take the plunge I will continue to ask questions about the upkeep of my Mini.
"Your choice....but why ask a bunch of questions about how to make a classic run if you plan to replace everything other than the shell?"
Because I'm driving it to and from work everyday AS IS and I need this car to be Dependable! I'm not ready to do all that..I have an 1967 VW to finish restoring first for my wife....that may be a month from now or 6 months from now...Heck it could be longer if i get deployed to Iraq again!
"I can't understand what having a severely rusted original shell buys you. You won't have very much of it left when you are done."
Satisfaction in knowing that I can work metal to a degree that transforms "Severely rusted" to WOW!! that is nice!
If I don't do something with it there won't be much left anyway because the rust would take over and it would be in a junkyard.
I'm not trying to make anyone look bad here...
The only thing to understand is that everyone here has added a personel touch when it comes to their Minis and we all don't ask "Why your doing this or that"....we just except the fact that they appreciate the car enough to have one....it's just my personel touch runs deeper than most....but it dosen't change anything it's still a Mini.
Originally Posted by Minimad
1. Small bores will run at higher rpm, but its best for long term wear to keep the speeds within limits. 65mph is plenty (4,000-4,400 rpm)
2. Flush cooling system including heater core. Check hoses esp water pump bypass, fan belt adj, etc. Use 75% H2O/25% anti-freeze. Add Water Wetter see AutoZone. Check rad cap - 13# cap. Check t-stat 165' for summer or blanking sleeve. Don't run w/o one of these.
3. I assume drums. Remove drums, free adjusters (yes they'll be rusted), Brake-Kleen everything, check wheel cylinders for leaks. Re-assemble & adjust. You must keep them adjusted on an ongoing basis to be effective. Do not expect multiple panic stops from this system...if you go to a 1275 motor change out to disc brakes.
4. Valve at back of head is operated by cable with "fan" pattern on it. Pull it out to shut water off. (yeah, I know it sounds backwards)
5. from LLEFT TO RIGHT- Choke cable pull, emergency flasher switch, (blank or heated rear window switch), brake failure test switch & warning light, lighting switch, heater control cable
left stalk wipers/washers
right stalk turn signals (up/down), hi beams (forward) & horn (push)
6. Premium.
If the car is from the UK expect that they've never actually changed the oil or radiator fluid. They prefer to top it off
Go thru the car thoroughly for all safety & PM items.
2. Flush cooling system including heater core. Check hoses esp water pump bypass, fan belt adj, etc. Use 75% H2O/25% anti-freeze. Add Water Wetter see AutoZone. Check rad cap - 13# cap. Check t-stat 165' for summer or blanking sleeve. Don't run w/o one of these.
3. I assume drums. Remove drums, free adjusters (yes they'll be rusted), Brake-Kleen everything, check wheel cylinders for leaks. Re-assemble & adjust. You must keep them adjusted on an ongoing basis to be effective. Do not expect multiple panic stops from this system...if you go to a 1275 motor change out to disc brakes.
4. Valve at back of head is operated by cable with "fan" pattern on it. Pull it out to shut water off. (yeah, I know it sounds backwards)
5. from LLEFT TO RIGHT- Choke cable pull, emergency flasher switch, (blank or heated rear window switch), brake failure test switch & warning light, lighting switch, heater control cable
left stalk wipers/washers
right stalk turn signals (up/down), hi beams (forward) & horn (push)
6. Premium.
If the car is from the UK expect that they've never actually changed the oil or radiator fluid. They prefer to top it off
Go thru the car thoroughly for all safety & PM items.
Blinkers or flashers.....where is the fuse for them I noticed today that they are not working right...they are not flashing but wavering in and out like there is a short some where. I need to get a factory manual.
See question about fuses
Originally Posted by John Smith
Blinkers or flashers.....where is the fuse for them I noticed today that they are not working right...they are not flashing but wavering in and out like there is a short some where. I need to get a factory manual.
First, find and buy a service manual. Most all your questions will be answered there.
Establish a relationship with:
Heritage Garage
Seven Enterprises
MiniMania.
All have web sites. There are other vendors too. Do a google search.
If you're runnung hot, the heater is likely open to help with engine cooling. You may want to leave it open until you sort the problem.
Establish a relationship with:
Heritage Garage
Seven Enterprises
MiniMania.
All have web sites. There are other vendors too. Do a google search.
If you're runnung hot, the heater is likely open to help with engine cooling. You may want to leave it open until you sort the problem.
Triple-c
Originally Posted by John Smith
Thanks that is just what I needed...where did you buy the new fuse box from?
And don't assume that fuse #1 is the top fuse by the way.... mine was the bottom. That could have been a result of the earlier work done but I was wise enuf to check before I slapped the new one on (with the big fuse on the wrong leads....everything metal was a rusted blob so I couldn't read them)
Also my 1275 runs a little below the N on the temp gauge normally, hot day idle and it creeps up just to above N. I have an FRG front end with inner panels removed however so I probably get better air flow than normal. First day I had mine it boiled over. A flush cleaned out plenty of crud....altho in that case I think the thermostat stuck closed. I gave it a good English whack on the housing and the problem has never recurred.
Conventional wisdom does agree with 25% a/f to water. And there are pages that will help you to determine if the fan, assuming you have the plastic fan, is on right. It is 'directional' in that there is a wrong way and a right way .... and like the heater valve, to many the right way looks wrong... But it becomes an issue of pulling air across the coil from the outside - or pushing from the engine....out.
Originally Posted by ripley
First, find and buy a service manual. Most all your questions will be answered there.
Establish a relationship with:
Heritage Garage
Seven Enterprises
MiniMania.
All have web sites. There are other vendors too. Do a google search.
If you're runnung hot, the heater is likely open to help with engine cooling. You may want to leave it open until you sort the problem.
Establish a relationship with:
Heritage Garage
Seven Enterprises
MiniMania.
All have web sites. There are other vendors too. Do a google search.
If you're runnung hot, the heater is likely open to help with engine cooling. You may want to leave it open until you sort the problem.
Finally took a good look at everything today and this car needs immediate attention!! The floor has two 6 X 1 inch holes in it and the wheel well has a hole that is open to the interior. There is a softball size hole in the trunk and i really need to check the suspension points.....it's rusted that bad!! Oh well things will be ok...I'm changing the oil and flushing the radiator.....and pressure washing the motor tomorrow and fixing the Flashers..hopefully. I will have pic of the stuff tomorrow.
hmmmm
Originally Posted by John Smith
Finally took a good look at everything today and this car needs immediate attention!! The floor has two 6 X 1 inch holes in it and the wheel well has a hole that is open to the interior. There is a softball size hole in the trunk and i really need to check the suspension points.....it's rusted that bad!! Oh well things will be ok...I'm changing the oil and flushing the radiator.....and pressure washing the motor tomorrow and fixing the Flashers..hopefully. I will have pic of the stuff tomorrow.
I've leaned towards steam cleaning on mine. These beasts are WAY to susecptible to water where ya don't need it to be. Don't be surprised when you learn your lazy blinkers are a water induced short.
Well today I learned alot about the Mini....it was running hot again so my neighbor and I took the radiator out all the hoses the thermostat and flushed the entire system and put it all back together.

My wife thought this picture was funny.....now that look at it
I didn't get a chance to change the oil so that will happen tommorow. I found two cracked vaccum lines and one coolant line....fixed those and fixed my Blinker issue with new bulbs and one of the bulb sockets was rusted out pretty bad so that will need replacing . As for pressure washing...I didn't get to do it today....but there is tommorow.
My wife thought this picture was funny.....now that look at it
I didn't get a chance to change the oil so that will happen tommorow. I found two cracked vaccum lines and one coolant line....fixed those and fixed my Blinker issue with new bulbs and one of the bulb sockets was rusted out pretty bad so that will need replacing . As for pressure washing...I didn't get to do it today....but there is tommorow.
Today....I changed the oil and she cranked up first try.
It didn't run hot even after sitting stationary for 30 minutes running. Everything was great until the rear Valance with the bumper on it fell off from the rust
I have to admit I was a little frustrated but I knew it was a rust bucket when I bought it.
I have to admit I was a little frustrated but I knew it was a rust bucket when I bought it.
After the rear bumper fell off (glad it didn't fall of while I was driving
) I started to tally the cost of getting the body back to normal...and the total without shipping is $1740.50. I have no idea what shipping is going to be but I'm guessing somewhere inthe $300-$500 range....which is fine I alloted $2500 for the rebuild so I'm still under budget. Can you guess what part I looked for first
) I started to tally the cost of getting the body back to normal...and the total without shipping is $1740.50. I have no idea what shipping is going to be but I'm guessing somewhere inthe $300-$500 range....which is fine I alloted $2500 for the rebuild so I'm still under budget. Can you guess what part I looked for first
Originally Posted by John Smith
Well, I FINALLY picked up the car today a drove to work and I have a few questions...If they sound dumb I don't care I need to know the answer
1. What is the top speed of a stock mini?
I ask because once i switched to fourth gear it seemed that the motor was already in the high RPM range. 45 Mph the car sounds like it reving at 4K rpm.
2. I see an indicator for temp.....mine is reading above normal towards the H do Mini's normally run in this rage?
3. The brakes on this thing are HORRIBLE. I stop like a freight train....I'm sure this is not normal...right?
4. How do you turn of the heat?
5. What are all the buttons for? (I will get a picture of those later today)
6. What kind of gas is the best for it?
1. What is the top speed of a stock mini?
I ask because once i switched to fourth gear it seemed that the motor was already in the high RPM range. 45 Mph the car sounds like it reving at 4K rpm.
2. I see an indicator for temp.....mine is reading above normal towards the H do Mini's normally run in this rage?
3. The brakes on this thing are HORRIBLE. I stop like a freight train....I'm sure this is not normal...right?
4. How do you turn of the heat?
5. What are all the buttons for? (I will get a picture of those later today)
6. What kind of gas is the best for it?
Hnadbook
Originally Posted by lotus87
Try reading the handbook that came with the car.
can u imagine
the handbook for my 79 got lost someplace
guess I should'a dropped the deal to buy cuz it wasn't there.....
sorry....had to vent.
Come-on now. When you buy a 25+ year old car ya gots to search for help. Thankee thankee for the web
I wouldn't have bought this car but give him a break....he got bit by the Mini bug.
golly gee
can u imagine
the handbook for my 79 got lost someplace
can u imagine
the handbook for my 79 got lost someplace
With no glovebox in the Minis, it's a wonder there are any Owners Handbooks out there.
Hmmm...what is the British equivalent of a glovebox anyway?




