next weekend (june 11) i'm taking off the drums all around on my classic mini for the first time to replace the shoes and springs (and at least one cylinder in the rear)... does anyone have any suggestions/warnings/advice?

 

You may have difficulty with the rear adjusters. Start spraying them now with PB Blaster. If they are stuck, dismantle the brake assembly & heat with propane torch Work back & forth. They unscrew thru the backplate into the shoe side. Clean rust from threads. Coat with antiseize & reinstall.

Watch that your drums are not already turned too far. Another cut may put them over max and you'll lose adjustment & pedal.

Bleeding can be a *****. Don't pump fast. Open bleeders, press pedal, Close bleeders. Repeat slowly. Also try letting gravity work with bleeders open.

Get a proper brake adjuster tool with square holed ends. The adjusters round quickly otherwise.

Replace any cylinder that shows wet inside. Buy new, don't rebuild as they're cheap. Assume if one side is bad then both are....or the other is close behind.

Think about replacing the flexible brake lines while you're at it. Upgrading to SS braided helps brake effort.

Keep everything clean. Use Castrol GT LMA brake fluid.

Drink beer.

Oh, and be patient in placing the wheel cylinder locating clip on the rear....you'll see what I mean

 

I think this MINIMAD guy should write a Mini repair manual. How's the wagon coming anyway? Will we be able to see it before MiniMeet east?

 

friday afternoon, i got the front brake shoes replaced. the adjusters are toast. they couldn't be any more rounded. i'm not even messing with them.

today (saturday), i did the rear brakes. did the LH side first. everything came off fine, adjuster toast for sure. replaced the cylinder and yes the clip is a beotch. got the drum back on with a little trouble but its on. moved to the right. same story with the adjuster. took everything off. opened the box with the cylinder and darn it if the rubber isn't already ripped. aaarrrghh. everything was going so well. i had to remind my self... patience patience patience.

now i have to wait until monday to call 7 ent to get a replacement cylinder since no one has them in town.

so, the adjusters need replacement. i'll get some new drums and adjusters for sure - that, however, is for another day though.

 

Sounds like you made good progress. Its common for PO's to use open end wrenches and vice grips on the adjusters (********! ) And you are correct about patience, patience.... Take your time.

Also wanted to correct the bleed sequence (must have had a brain fart ) It was press pedal, open valve, close valve, release pedal. Do it slowly to purge the air. For some reason Mini hydraulic systems can become very persnickety when bleeding. Also, the wheel sequence should be LR, RR, LF, RF. Work your way from the farthest bleeder back to the one closest to the master. You can also pressure bleed if desired. Auto Zone sells a kit.

 

i have a bleed kit. it was when i used it for the first time that i realized that one of my cylinders was bad. i was told by my local mini guru that it could be a cylinder, a collapsed brake line or the a bad spring at the juncture before the rear brake lines. let me just say that when i took the brake line off the suspect cylinder i was glad to see some new fluid drip out. whew!

when i get the replacement cylinder, i'll bleed the brake lines and we'll see what kind of damage i've done!

btw, a friend of mine bought speed bleeders for his bmw mini and i was wondering if they had those for the classic mini? anyone ever used speed bleeders on their classics?

 

so, mini mania and 7ent no longer have this kit. does anyone have any idea where i can get one? see attached picture, please.

 

if you have the part # try bmc.on.ca or minicityltd.com or djminis.com.

after that its off to the UK -> minisport.com or minispares.com

 

minicityltd has it! thanks.

 

you could also try:



http://www.heritagegarage.com/

Bob

 

finally got the brakes 100% done. new adjusters, new springs, drums, stainless steel lines. all i can say is that the car stops and stops hard.

 

I am having a devil of a time getting the retaining clip on the cylinder. Any lessons learned? I spent at least an hour trying today and had to walk away from it. Seems like needle nose vice grips would do the trick, but, of course I don't have any.

 

channel lock worked for me
http://www.google.com/products/catal...wAg#ps-sellers

aka groove joint pliers
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94287

they allowed a 'flat' squeeze

 

Got some of them. I'll give it a try. Seems like the design could have been a little different, but who am I to complain. I am sure it will go right on at some point, making the second round slightly easier.

 

Thanks for the tip, CAPT. I was trying to hold the clip and push it on and was getting nowhere fast. Using the cylinder protrusion as a fulcrum (I guess) worked much better. Just didn't consider that route.

 

always glad to be of help

leverage is your friend

and any excuse to buy another tool is the way I look at it!