Classic Mini Question
Classic Mini Question
As a prospective buyer, and hopefully a future owner of a Mini. What are the things to look out for on them? What things should raise the red flag in looking at a prospective Mini? What is to be expected as going bad, gone bad, will have wrong, probably is broken, typically needs replacing, etc.
I'm trying to distinguish what 'every' Mini has wrong with it, from a 'wow, how'd that happen?'
Also, after buying, what I could expect as will probably die, break, blow-out, etc.
Thanks,
Laclede
I'm trying to distinguish what 'every' Mini has wrong with it, from a 'wow, how'd that happen?'
Also, after buying, what I could expect as will probably die, break, blow-out, etc.
Thanks,
Laclede
I don't own a Mini, however, I wish I did. Check this out
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=36502 and read down as the further down you go the lower the price.
I don't know if this year/model is good/bad/indiferent
Earl
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=36502 and read down as the further down you go the lower the price.
I don't know if this year/model is good/bad/indiferent
Earl
The first thing you see and should consider is the BODY.
There are many places the RUST can start (and ROT if you are looking at a Woody): rusted floors, rotting rocker panels, rusty door skins (at the bottoms, from inside the door pockets), bad hinge-mounting (fitch) panels - and sagging doors from worn hinge pins, rotten boot floor and cancerous battery box, front mounting points for the rear subframe(that's at the back end of the rocker panels already mentioned), front cowel at the back corners of bonnet (in front of the windscreen), front fenders around the headlight mounting rings ...
... most of the panels are still available to fix any of that, but finding an artist who knows how to use a torch and knows how to paint will cost ya!
And then there's the mechanical side ... every thing from worn thrust washers that let the crank move whenever you step on the clutch to blown wheel cylinder seals that let your drums fill with fluid ... (i'll get a list together and post the best of it later) ...
So ... when you get it together and working right, you'll forget the cost and agony and have more driving fun than you could have imagined possible ...
There are many places the RUST can start (and ROT if you are looking at a Woody): rusted floors, rotting rocker panels, rusty door skins (at the bottoms, from inside the door pockets), bad hinge-mounting (fitch) panels - and sagging doors from worn hinge pins, rotten boot floor and cancerous battery box, front mounting points for the rear subframe(that's at the back end of the rocker panels already mentioned), front cowel at the back corners of bonnet (in front of the windscreen), front fenders around the headlight mounting rings ...
... most of the panels are still available to fix any of that, but finding an artist who knows how to use a torch and knows how to paint will cost ya!
And then there's the mechanical side ... every thing from worn thrust washers that let the crank move whenever you step on the clutch to blown wheel cylinder seals that let your drums fill with fluid ... (i'll get a list together and post the best of it later) ...
So ... when you get it together and working right, you'll forget the cost and agony and have more driving fun than you could have imagined possible ...
Classic Mini
Check out your states pollution requirement before buying. I hear that in California it is impossible to register some years of cars. One owner posted that he bought a classic, and had to sell it as there was no way to put it on the road. It seems there are a lot of 1967 Minis in California that look like newer cars...
Here in Illinois, if you live in a testing zone, any car from 68 to 81 must pass an "idle only" test. (my 1978 998cc just passed), although if you don't want to use it as a daily driver you can register a car over 25 years old as an antique, and not be subject to emmisions testing.
Here in Illinois, if you live in a testing zone, any car from 68 to 81 must pass an "idle only" test. (my 1978 998cc just passed), although if you don't want to use it as a daily driver you can register a car over 25 years old as an antique, and not be subject to emmisions testing.
The list you're looking for can be very short, or endless. It all depends on how much you want to spend. As an example, I have a 1959 Morris Mini for sale that needs nothing. It has undergone a total ground up restoration. It is expensive. But the list of "what might go wrong" is very, very short. On the other hand, if you're looking to spend $4K to $5K for a car, then that list can get long (body, engine, suspension, etc). So, what's yer budget??? Also ask yourself what you are capable of doing yourself. As buying a car that needs a lot and having someone else repair it is very costly.
ripley.
ripley.
Originally Posted by Jdewey
Check out your states pollution requirement before buying.
Trending Topics
The first thing you need to do is learn all you can about the Classic Mini.
That way you'll be able to figure out what Mini suites you needs. Between 1959-2000 over 5 millions mini's were built and there are many different models, engines and body styles. You have MK1-6 or 7, You have Coopers, Cooper S's, Innocenti's, Mokes, and so on. You left hand drives, you got right hand drives, you got sliding windows and you got roll down windows. You have Mini's with 850cc, 998's, 1275's and several other engine of different configurations. There are A engines and there are A plus engines. There is a mountain of information that you need to learn before you can make a sound decision on what to buy. There are legally imported cars and there are cars that have been re-vinned in order to get into the US. After you've gained some knowledge about the Mini, then you need to figure out what you can afford to spend and who is going to maintain you're little classic. Hopefully you're handy with a wrench because they do require constant maintenance. There is always something breaking or you will alway want to do something to improve it's performance, be it handling, braking and such. Go to Amazon.com and do a search for Austin Mini's and buy you a couple of books. Join a Mini club in your area. Most clubs allow membership even if you don't own a Mini. Go to their events and make friends. You will need them later on when you get your own car.
I will say this. Most Mini owners are the nicest people you will ever meet and they go out of their way to help a brother out. Visit these sites for more information. www.minimania.com and www.tunemini.com
That way you'll be able to figure out what Mini suites you needs. Between 1959-2000 over 5 millions mini's were built and there are many different models, engines and body styles. You have MK1-6 or 7, You have Coopers, Cooper S's, Innocenti's, Mokes, and so on. You left hand drives, you got right hand drives, you got sliding windows and you got roll down windows. You have Mini's with 850cc, 998's, 1275's and several other engine of different configurations. There are A engines and there are A plus engines. There is a mountain of information that you need to learn before you can make a sound decision on what to buy. There are legally imported cars and there are cars that have been re-vinned in order to get into the US. After you've gained some knowledge about the Mini, then you need to figure out what you can afford to spend and who is going to maintain you're little classic. Hopefully you're handy with a wrench because they do require constant maintenance. There is always something breaking or you will alway want to do something to improve it's performance, be it handling, braking and such. Go to Amazon.com and do a search for Austin Mini's and buy you a couple of books. Join a Mini club in your area. Most clubs allow membership even if you don't own a Mini. Go to their events and make friends. You will need them later on when you get your own car.
I will say this. Most Mini owners are the nicest people you will ever meet and they go out of their way to help a brother out. Visit these sites for more information. www.minimania.com and www.tunemini.com
A Humorous But True Reply
can be found in
http://tinotopia.com/things/cars/austin_intro.htm
titled Buying the Austin America
I found this a couple of days before I flew to Tampa to buy a 79 and bring it to VA via the AutoTrain. That's just the beginning of the similarities of the experience.
http://tinotopia.com/things/cars/austin_intro.htm
titled Buying the Austin America
I found this a couple of days before I flew to Tampa to buy a 79 and bring it to VA via the AutoTrain. That's just the beginning of the similarities of the experience.
Ad016
Okeefe,
That sure was some funny reading. Busted a gut big time. Hey I have a factory service manual for Austin America, MG1100 if you're interested. I'm getting ready to list it on eBay, but I'll give you 1st crack at it. Let me know. Glad you made it home OK.
Regards,
CasaMini
That sure was some funny reading. Busted a gut big time. Hey I have a factory service manual for Austin America, MG1100 if you're interested. I'm getting ready to list it on eBay, but I'll give you 1st crack at it. Let me know. Glad you made it home OK.
Regards,
CasaMini
Thanks for the offer - mine's a Mini
My 79 is a Mini, not an America - but thanks for offering.
For me: the car overheated 1/2 way between Tampa and Orlando. Then the bonnet flew off - improperly fastened - thank goodness I brought duct tape. And after three starts the battery was dead. That was all the first day.
Arriving at Auto-train they told me I needed 4 inches of ground clearance. No problem I'd checked that, got just over 4 at the back box. But WAIT. They're measuring while I'm IN THE CAR. 3 1/2!
And the battery lurks....will it start when they try to load it?
The best part was when the porter went to move the car. If he was under 350lb it wasn't by much. Him in a cobra classic bucket had to be seen to be believed....after I'd signed a damage waiver because of low ground clearance!
And then when I get to VA it starts to rain .... no Monsoon ... for the trip to Norfolk. And that wonderful distributor et al is unprotected behind the grill.....
We made it ... but all to similiar!
thanks again
For me: the car overheated 1/2 way between Tampa and Orlando. Then the bonnet flew off - improperly fastened - thank goodness I brought duct tape. And after three starts the battery was dead. That was all the first day.
Arriving at Auto-train they told me I needed 4 inches of ground clearance. No problem I'd checked that, got just over 4 at the back box. But WAIT. They're measuring while I'm IN THE CAR. 3 1/2!
And the battery lurks....will it start when they try to load it? The best part was when the porter went to move the car. If he was under 350lb it wasn't by much. Him in a cobra classic bucket had to be seen to be believed....after I'd signed a damage waiver because of low ground clearance!
And then when I get to VA it starts to rain .... no Monsoon ... for the trip to Norfolk. And that wonderful distributor et al is unprotected behind the grill.....
We made it ... but all to similiar!
thanks again
Originally Posted by OKeefe
(mental note: when I do finally get a Mini - bring a trailer...
)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Interior/Exterior DEPO/Helix Projector Headlights Installed
Alkaidovich
Interior/Exterior
68
Jan 30, 2021 01:35 AM
andrewjg1994
MINI Parts for Sale
20
Jan 29, 2021 07:45 PM
jrezzo
MINIs & Minis for Sale
0
Aug 9, 2015 10:32 PM



