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'74 Austin Mini VTEC Project

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  #1  
Old 09-22-2011, 07:22 PM
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'74 Austin Mini VTEC Project

B20B Block
-Wiseco 13.2-14.2 Comp Pistons
-Brian Crower H-Beam Rods
-Dan Benson Sleeved 84.5mm
-ACL Race Bearings
-ARP Headstuds
-Moroso Oil Pan
-Probably running E85

B16a2 head
-Ported & Polished
-3 Angle Valve Job
-Supertech .5 mm Over-sized Valves
-Brian Crower Dual Valve springs and Titanium retainers
-Brian Crower Cam Gears
-Stage 4 Comp Cams (Price was right: Free)

Trans
-Integra LS trans with LSD equiped

Body
-Fortech GT Flares
-SCCA certified roll cage

-Corbeau Race Seats
-5 Point G-Force Harness
-Woodward Steering Quick Release
-5 gallon fuel safe cell
-Will be running an Accusump system
-Aero Race Wheels 30 Series 13x7
-Toyo Proxes R888 225/45R13

Hopefully in the end, the motor will reach 260+ whp (I can live with more)... Should bring a lot of smiles! Check it out and tell me what you think, I'll be posting more as I progress.
 
Attached Thumbnails '74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-dscn1131.jpg   '74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-img_2145.jpg   '74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-img_2146.jpg  

Last edited by trickpat35; 08-15-2012 at 02:35 PM.
  #2  
Old 09-26-2011, 07:47 PM
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Looking very mean. Those Ginormous flares are awesome. What subframe do you plan to use? Please keep us posted on your build. It's been pretty slow on this forum in the past couple of years. Good to see someone building a new toy!
 
  #3  
Old 09-28-2011, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dimini
Looking very mean. Those Ginormous flares are awesome. What subframe do you plan to use? Please keep us posted on your build. It's been pretty slow on this forum in the past couple of years. Good to see someone building a new toy!
Thanks dimini! With the flares it gives it a totally different look! I plan on using Mini-Tec's MTB2 subframe. I have their rear subframe already an it looks amazing! I really cannot wait till its finished, should bring some looks an surprises to whoever pulls up next to it.
 
  #4  
Old 09-28-2011, 08:28 AM
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I thought most of those vtec swaps required some kind of fiberglass clamshell hood. Seems like the engine will have to be installed from below on yours.
 
  #5  
Old 10-04-2011, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by nabeshin
I thought most of those vtec swaps required some kind of fiberglass clamshell hood. Seems like the engine will have to be installed from below on yours.
he is ok with running that engine , the mtb2 subframe works with the stock sheet metal in the front end .
i can remove my entire front in less then 5 minutes .

i am running a early mtb2 subframe and had many problems in getting the car to work . long story short , bought the car nearly complete with lots of problems . spent 10 months finding them all and now have a fun little car that drives well .

do not spend to much time in giving it huge horse power , i still have controllable torque steer in the first 2 gears with 170 hp . wheel spin is always a problem and i can not see how guys with 250 whp can even use most of it .
 
  #6  
Old 10-05-2011, 08:52 AM
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I'm with RatBlast, other than bragging rights, I don't see the need for 250 hp on FWD conversions. My D-series, at about 130 is a little anemic, but I run on 10-inchers so it's a nice balance. I think 170 would be the sweet spot for FWD x13" wheel set-ups.
 
  #7  
Old 10-05-2011, 09:08 AM
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260WHP N/A on a Honda motor like that seems really hard to do.
 
  #8  
Old 10-09-2011, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Boosted_Mini
260WHP N/A on a Honda motor like that seems really hard to do.
Actually its not to hard... Yes from stock the b20 is pathetic and non-vtec also rated at 126 hp and 133 ft/tq.... But changing the head to a vtec head can flow a lot of air in and out. Have a set of custom camshafts with the appropriate lift and duration will help achieve the hp goal im shooting for. Also when sleeved you can throw high compression pistons or even a high amount of boost at it (many conversions can reach 500+ on boost) and still be safe. But the biggest drawback is the intake on any N/A build. It's achievable
 
  #9  
Old 10-10-2011, 08:18 AM
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We don't have a lot of Honda engine experts on this forum, you'd probably get better answers on which pistons and so on to use from a Honda forum.

What we do have are quite a few VTEC Mini owners here, you'd be wise to listen to their thoughts - since they've already lived it.

Do keep us posted on your build process, and post lots of pics - we love to see pics - and I hope yours turns out well!

I find most of the VTEC conversion owners to be ultimately disappointed with their cars - it's too noisey, it vibrates like a biotch, it torque steers unbelieveably if you try to get on it, it rides harsh, overheats and so on....of course, not everyone experiences all of these issues, but I'll bet they all have some of them. Just too much motor and too many compromises made to get a fully sorted out car out of it. However, dimini's comes pretty close to being sorted out now - he's done close to 10K on his since he got it and it does have one really redeeming thing - the Honda motor always starts and runs well!

It also puts a big smile on his face every time he drives it - hope yours does too!
 
  #10  
Old 10-10-2011, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MINIdave
We don't have a lot of Honda engine experts on this forum, you'd probably get better answers on which pistons and so on to use from a Honda forum.

What we do have are quite a few VTEC Mini owners here, you'd be wise to listen to their thoughts - since they've already lived it.

Do keep us posted on your build process, and post lots of pics - we love to see pics - and I hope yours turns out well!

I find most of the VTEC conversion owners to be ultimately disappointed with their cars - it's too noisey, it vibrates like a biotch, it torque steers unbelieveably if you try to get on it, it rides harsh, overheats and so on....of course, not everyone experiences all of these issues, but I'll bet they all have some of them. Just too much motor and too many compromises made to get a fully sorted out car out of it. However, dimini's comes pretty close to being sorted out now - he's done close to 10K on his since he got it and it does have one really redeeming thing - the Honda motor always starts and runs well!

It also puts a big smile on his face every time he drives it - hope yours does too!
Thanks for advice MINIdave!

I've been talking to Bisimoto who is very experienced in the honda world and I think I have the build all figured out now. I plan on it being super noisy, vibrate my teeth loose since it will have a bare interior and drive like an animal. But I'm planning on tracking the car on the weekends so I can live with the excessive noises. I'll keep posting pictures of the progress!
 
  #11  
Old 10-21-2011, 07:00 AM
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Here are a few more pictures of the project. Hopefully this weekend I should be able to weld up the roof and finish up the passenger side rear flare.
 
Attached Thumbnails '74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-310784_2118311118056_1254090236_32051447_1425278460_n.jpg   '74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-310738_2118310758047_1254090236_32051446_553681732_n.jpg   '74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-314476_2118309638019_1254090236_32051443_1591060258_n.jpg  
  #12  
Old 10-21-2011, 10:38 AM
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Very nice, Cant wait to see the progress on this build. I hopefully can start one next year . Loving the flares
 
  #13  
Old 12-31-2011, 01:06 AM
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bump

any updates?
 
  #14  
Old 12-31-2011, 03:54 AM
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Question, when you cut the inner fender...is there something you line the inside with? I just cant imagine having to clean the thing every 3 days of driving since there's no fender liner.
 
  #15  
Old 01-01-2012, 05:11 PM
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Here's some updated pictures of whats so far been accomplished. Roof has been filled and the body work just needs to be blocked a few more times before its ready for paint. Started accumulating more parts to finish building the motor. College student and projects don't mix very well but its getting done slowly but surely. Thanks for the interest everybody!


TooFPaste39
Question, when you cut the inner fender...is there something you line the inside with? I just cant imagine having to clean the thing every 3 days of driving since there's no fender liner.
-In some parts were gonna fabricate something to prevent anything from building up definitely around the door hinge bolts in the a pillars. Then cover most of the inner fenders and bottom of the car with a SEM product that will prevent stone chips and anything else.

'74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-img_2200.jpg

'74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-img_2204.jpg

'74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-img_2205.jpg
 
  #16  
Old 01-05-2012, 01:06 PM
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  #17  
Old 01-07-2012, 05:12 PM
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Rock on Trickpat35!

It's looking awesome. You have the right spirit and expectation for this little monster. Loud, vibrates like hell and FAST! It will be a great track day toy. I spec'ed my little D-series for street use and it still requires earplugs at highway + speeds. There's a lot of noise when you are strapped into a tin-foil cabin.

What's your plan for wheels/tires?

Also, I think you are considering a stock Acura LSD. You might do a little more research as I think an Acura LSD doesn't work so well with a 1500 lbs. rodent. Might be worth a call to MiniTec, MiniMania or 7ent for their opinions.
 

Last edited by dimini; 01-07-2012 at 05:22 PM. Reason: additional question/comment
  #18  
Old 01-08-2012, 01:10 AM
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hmm...

mebbe 1,700 lbs w/ driver, and mebbe 240 hp @ crank...

7 lb/hp - yipes!

 
  #19  
Old 01-08-2012, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dimini
Rock on Trickpat35!

It's looking awesome. You have the right spirit and expectation for this little monster. Loud, vibrates like hell and FAST! It will be a great track day toy. I spec'ed my little D-series for street use and it still requires earplugs at highway + speeds. There's a lot of noise when you are strapped into a tin-foil cabin.

What's your plan for wheels/tires?

Also, I think you are considering a stock Acura LSD. You might do a little more research as I think an Acura LSD doesn't work so well with a 1500 lbs. rodent. Might be worth a call to MiniTec, MiniMania or 7ent for their opinions.
When I purchased the car it came with two sets of 13x7 aluminum wheels (not sure on what kind). One set had Hoosier r45's which will be used for track days and for street not sure on a tire yet. I'll give them a call and see what they might have to say but I have a feeling I probably will have to go with a quaife or wavetrac differential. Thanks for the advice dimini!


Originally Posted by cmt52663
hmm...

mebbe 1,700 lbs w/ driver, and mebbe 240 hp @ crank...

7 lb/hp - yipes!

I'll have to see when its all done to see how much it weighs it could be around that but with power numbers if I make that at the crank I wasted to much time and money in that motor then haha At the crank I'm expecting over or at 300 but to the wheels it will be around 250+. Once it gets on a dyno for tuning then I'll be able to see the results it brings
 
  #20  
Old 01-08-2012, 08:00 PM
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Awesome project, I've always liked the Fortech fenders and the GT5 look.
I've been in a few VTec Minis and though I've never owned one, I have been very impressed and am guessing you'll love it. Have fun with the project and I look forward to seeing more.
 
  #21  
Old 05-15-2012, 05:34 AM
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It's been awhile.........Have any updates on this beast?
 
  #22  
Old 05-16-2012, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by trickpat35
Actually its not to hard... Yes from stock the b20 is pathetic and non-vtec also rated at 126 hp and 133 ft/tq.... But changing the head to a vtec head can flow a lot of air in and out. Have a set of custom camshafts with the appropriate lift and duration will help achieve the hp goal im shooting for. Also when sleeved you can throw high compression pistons or even a high amount of boost at it (many conversions can reach 500+ on boost) and still be safe. But the biggest drawback is the intake on any N/A build. It's achievable

Achievable, yes. Reliable, no.

And it doesn't matter if you run a B20b block or not, if you are sleeving it. Absolutely no difference between a b18b block and b20
 

Last edited by nicklk; 05-16-2012 at 11:18 AM.
  #23  
Old 08-15-2012, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by nicklk
Achievable, yes. Reliable, no.

And it doesn't matter if you run a B20b block or not, if you are sleeving it. Absolutely no difference between a b18b block and b20

You are correct about the the blocks being similar the only difference is the bore size and displacement, b18 is a 81mm bore stock and b20 is a 84mm bore... I don't expect the car to be a daily driver, its being built to be tracked and an occasional drive on the road to shows or autocross events.
 
  #24  
Old 09-03-2012, 06:37 PM
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The bottom end is together and now the next step is to prep the head for the conversion.
 
Attached Thumbnails '74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-526188_3635443445416_1069395574_n.jpg   '74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-292909_3635448085532_988418322_n.jpg   '74 Austin Mini VTEC Project-301215_3635450165584_918732812_n.jpg  
  #25  
Old 10-07-2013, 02:46 PM
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thats a lot of power to have in a mini.. mine is only 200 whp and its basically uncontrollable when from 0-about 50 mph at wot. normal driving its fine (after ages of suspension setup). but im running a different frame (allspeed). it is def fun tho. surprises almost everyone who pulls up next to me. I don't tend to drive like an ***, but im not against the occasional "make the big guy look like an ***" lesson. also you will run into gearing issues as I did.. I eventually bought a 3.7 final drive which tamed it down a bit. however I do drive mine a few times a week 60 miles round trip. if you got any questions feel free to hit me up.
 
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