I think it is oil now but while in the car it was hard to tell and Turky put undercoating everywhere to make it look more solid than it is.

 

Ok I finally got around to taking some pictures.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ndenahan/
I also removed the heater take off (after the photos)
the water jacket looks to be in pretty good condition.
Incidentally if your looking for toddler sized Adirondack chairs...

 

Hey Jeff,

Where did you get the small rad at. I am thinking about doing the same thing. Where did you get the fan too. did you have any problems will air when filling the system???

 

The 2nd radiator is a heater core from a 2003 Ford Van IIRC. I found the heater core by wandering through the autozone and checkerautoparts websites. Fan is a 6.5" SPAL pusher fan that I bought from thefanman.com - fits perfectly after shaving down a small amount of the fan shroud width. Nope, as far as I know, I don't have any trapped air in the setup.

For more information on my mounting fabrication (and some pictures) check out my gallery link: http://tsunami.desertwave.com/galler...2_itemId=12403

The fan is electronically controlled via a Derale fan controller part number DER-16759: http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...ER-16759&dds=1

It was a fun project fabricating the fan bracketry. It did make a big difference this last summer in Arizona. I was able to drive in 115 DegF temps without issue.

Cheers,
Jeff

 

I thought about installing a puller so I get fresh air??? Maybe I will rethink this since your works.

 

My Mini ('73 Austin American) has a big 3 or 4 inch diameter hole in the inner wing that was most likely used to vent fresh air into the cabin via the outer wing. Mine doesn't have any of that vent ducting so I just used the hole to dump the heat from the radiator.

I added this setup so that the engine wouldn't overheat at stoplights and slow traffic ... a puller would work just as well for that I'm sure.

Jeff

 

So I've got an update.
I ordered the new thermostat housing, thermostat, and radiator cap to start with. Thinking of start with the cheap stuff.
No luck after replacing those it still runs hot.
Also now I've got water in my oil so I'm going to replace the head gasket and radiator hoses. See where that gets me. Parts should be here Tuesday.

 

Alright everybody, I got the head gasket set and started on pulling the head off. I think I found the problem well at least part of it.



http://www.flickr.com/photos/ndenahan/5459398302/http://www.flickr.com/photos/ndenahan/5459398302/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/ndenahan/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ndenahan/5459401394/http://www.flickr.com/photos/ndenahan/5459401394/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/ndenahan/, on Flickr


http://www.flickr.com/photos/ndenahan/5458799687/http://www.flickr.com/photos/ndenahan/5458799687/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/ndenahan/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ndenahan/5458797741/http://www.flickr.com/photos/ndenahan/5458797741/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/ndenahan/, on Flickr

So I think I need a new head. Anybody have an extra small bore head they might be willing to part with for a reasonable sum? Or know a good place to look? Also wondering that seeing the damage to the head what is the likely hood the block is still serviceable and if there are best practices places to start looking for block damage?
Thanks...

 

Yikes ... You definitely found a big part of your problem. So much for starting with the low cost options.

I haven't had my engine apart, yet, but your experience scares me because I'm seeing some of the same issues.

I can tell you with previous cars I've had over-heated and cracked heads where the block was not affected. But I also had a VW Bus where the bad head ate up the block. That head can probably be rebuilt, but I wouldn't go there.

Hopefully, some others with more Mini experience can supply some best practices.

 

Good news, I found someone with a used head about an hour away from me for a decent price so I'm going to pick it up, re-lap the valves toss it on the car and hope for the best. I'll keep everyone posted with how it goes.

 

test the top of the block for cracks by the dye penetrate method

http://www.ehow.com/how_6453472_chec...ine-block.html

cracks not visible to the eye pop right out

welding supply should have what you need - there are dyes that don't require the black lite, we used 'em shipboard to check welds all the time.

 

Alright I got the new (used) head cleaned it up lapped the valves and put it back in... nothing the car won't start doesn't seem to have compression. I had a hard time checking much because I was doing this late and by myself. At first I was convinced the starter wasn't engaging but I put it in gear and the starter was trying to move the car.
The head was an A+ head on an A block using the rockers off my A head does any one know if that is the problem?
Thanks...

 

I can't tell you anything about an A+ head on an A block, but I'll state the obvious ...

A total lack of compression is usually a timing problem. The valves are open when the piston is coming up.

Good luck ...

 

Right.. but the car was working other than the crack head and I didn't change anything with the timing, I think the issue is something with the head.

I was wondering if the A+ valves are longer possibly so that they can never fully close when used with A rockers?

 

Yes, but the head and the block both have some sort of marking indicating top-dead-center (TDC) and they must be aligned. The new head isn't automatically sitting at the same timing point as the block. You had to remove the timing chain in order to remove the old head, correct (or at least remove it from the old head)? A timing chain co-ordinates the timing of the head (camshaft), the block (crankshaft) and the distributor (via the crankshaft). I suppose a good question for this forum, "is there a difference in TDC between the A+ head and the A block?"

I haven't had one of these engines apart, yet (probably this summer). But have had the head(s) off several different engines and getting the head(s) aligned to the block is essential.

One more real fear ... If, indeed, the timing between head and block is off, it is possible in many engines to damage the valves. If a piston contacts an open valve (while trying to start the car), it can bend it and you'll never have compression in that cylinder (been there, done that). I don't know if that's an issue with these engines. It is true in most high-compression engines (valve/piston clearance is minimized, so an open valve will get hit).

 

Did you remove the distributor or distributor drive during your repair process? If so the timing could be off. Make sure the #1 piston is on the compression stroke when the rotor points to the #1 spark plug lead. You can test it by holding your thumb over the spark pulg hole. When it's on the compression stroke you won't be able to hold back the release of pressure. Also check your timing marks at the same time.

 

Ok I'll tell you why I'm a big dummy..

First to Kymummer
I'm guessing the cars you removed the heads from had overhead cams. Like my Toyota pick up with a 22re. I replaced that head gasket too a major pain.

Minis don't (they are Push rod engines) the cam is down inside the block, and the head can be removed without touching the timing chain.

And also there is no need to mess with the distributor and I didn't.

Now the real problem, besides me being dumb.
I was waiting to run the car so I can adjust the the valves hot... but it wouldn't start .. no compression. Stop me if you heard this one. If you replace parts on your head, valves or rockers you need to adjust the valves to make sure they close all the way, or it won't have compression. Therefore it won't start.

Go ahead point and laugh...

Anyhow car starts now, runs and doesn't light the temp light.
Thanks everyone for the ideas.

 

Right you are about the overhead cams I've dealt with. Nice to know the Minis are not overhead (I'll probably have my head off sometime soon).

Valve adjustment ... of course (slaps forehead). That's critical with either design.

Yay! It is alive!!! Great work!!

 

you REALLY need to figure out why those cracked so severely. Massive overheat and/or preignition/detonation. Set max timing for 28 degrees (no vacuum advance connected) at about 3800rpm and just let the idle timing sit where it may. You may be able to get away with 30-degrees max advance, but I suggest settling for 28 degrees.

That's some crazy failure there.