GOT IT RUNNING..... Turns out one of the hoses that connects to where the carburetor and engine meet was open. The owner before me cut the hoses and capped them, one of the caps came loose. I think there was so problem with the switch but fixed it when I took apart and rebuilt. Also had to put plug wires back whet they were for car to run. Thanks for all the help.

 

The engine DID start & run .... so wouldn't the correct beginning B to get back there ... however wrong it might be ... and move forward from there?

 

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Hold on.......drove car down the street to super market and got stranded. Car will no longer start. Back to square one.. Exact samesymptoms..

 

so you were able to push start it and it ran for a little while?

Then you shut it off and now can't get a restart?

 

I was able to start car with key in the ignition about five times. When I tried to leave store the car started but then died as I was driving in parking lot, I could not keep revs high enough.

 

that could be Lucas Juice

I'd flush the tank

 

I emptied fuel tank and put fresh fuel and still will not start. Its it possible my fuel pump its not pumping enough fuel. I gave a mechanical fuel pump, and it its pumping but not sure if out its enough.

 

I have a mechanical pump on a 1275 A+ with a 1.75 SU and a K&N .... no fuel starvation

BASIC RULE

Do not futz with the fuel system until you are 120% sure the ignition is spot on . . . .

I've two thoughts .... check the timing (you can get a light at harbor freight for under $25 - but your wires in the wrong place WILL require interpritation)

And going back to the connections at that switch rebuild . . . solder and shrink wrap tubing are my thoughts.

I had this kind of flakey performance when .... wait, something else to check


back to - won't start means?

does not crank at all, or does not fire while it cranks

If the engine ground is not tight the motor won't run altho you might crank the heck out of it.


My ground strap runs from the left side engine steady on the motor side, to the fire wall side, where it connects on the bottom. If this bolt (fire wall side) is loose, it can not be seen, but then the grounding strap makes intermittent contact . . .

 

I checked the ground strap and its connected correctly, I even removed strap and then reconnected. Can I check the timing with the engine not running, if so what should it be set to.

 

The engine will crank all day but will not turn over. Does not sound like a dead batterie type of sound, just sound normal but with out the engine starting. My fuel line has a pressure gauge but does not show any pressure when trying to start.

 

I would look at you ignition parts. maybe double check your wiring make sure their are no shorts in you wiring from the new ignition parts.
It is possible that you points need to be cleaned or cap or rotor all of those parts can cause starting problems.
When I first got my Mini it would not start as you described, it turned the engine all day but it never fired. I ended up just giving it a tune up new plugs wire cap rotor coil ... I also had to mess with the carb to get it to run but after the ignition part it was at least firing. If you car was running before I would not monkey around with the carb parts.
You can take the float bowl off the carb to make sure it has gas. I guess if you think the Lucas additive may be the root problem and you've gone through the trouble to clean the tank empty the float bowl because the additive will still be in that fuel. If you have a mechanical pump it will take a little cranking to fill the bowl back up. you can prefill it part way before you reinstall with clean fuel to speed things along.

Also remember you only need three things to make the car run
spark
fuel
air

the air should not be the problem but you know check make sure the filter is not blocked and that the carb linkages are working.

Fuel if you not sure if the fuel is getting to the carb or to the engine you can pour a small amount of fuel ounce or two down the throat of the carb. If you try and crank and it fires and trys to start fuel is most likely your problem.

Spark it seems like every step is a possible failure point with these cars. If it was running yesterday and not today, fuel and air aren't that temperamental I'd look here. If you have help you can pull out a plug and put the wire back on the plug with it free from the engine hold the end of the plug to a ground and have someone try and crank you should be able to see the spark jump the gap.

 

Car is able to start if I put fuel into carb but will not keep running.

 

Ok I'd say you must have a fuel problem then...
It doesn't keep running because the fuel you put in the carb runs out.
I would take off the float bowl from the carb and clean it out put fresh fuel back in it and try it like that. It does sound like you got to much of that additive mixed in with your fuel.
Let us know if you need help locating the float bowl.

 

Just got car running by changing fuel pump. But when I went to drive car it would not shift gears, really had to move gear shifter into gear. Any thoughts ?

 

Cart has been sitting for two months and before I left it sitting I did oil change and also added some stop leak. Now engine runs fine but will not shift while running.

 

Did it shift well before your troubles started? Is the clutch fluid reservoir full? Is the clutch release lever properly set? Next, I'd try to look through the timing cover hole to see if the clutch is releasing. If not maybe driving it in 1st and stomping on it a few times could free it up if it's been sitting and rusting together. If you can't see the clutch releasing, you might be able to get the transmission cover off enough to get a peek. A couple of the bolts are really tough to get to, but it can be done. Might need to jack the engine up, too. Good luck!

 

For what it is worth now...
If you had a Lucas fuel pump (mine was after market what I got it) I've heard of trouble with them.
I believe they have points like your distributer from my understanding and are prone to having issues.
So might be late now but check next time if the points in the fuel pump just need to be cleaned.

As far as the gears??
let me restate what I understand to be the problem for clarity.

First yes we are talking about a manual transmission.
You can shift in and out of gears all day with the motor off.
With the engine running it just go in gear or grinds?

I'm thinking as before if it was working before it should work now.
I'd check the fluid levels
I agree with BRGPA it sounds like a clutch issue. I've haven't needed to deal with my clutch yet, so I'm not much help, but before you go unbolting stuff from the engine.
Check the easy stuff like the slave cylinder is pushing the fork.

 

Added fluid and now able to shift. Think I may need to bleed the clutch in the future.