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Replacing some seals on the 998. Need expeienced advice.

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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 12:00 PM
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MtyMous
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Replacing some seals on the 998. Need expeienced advice.

So I have a pretty decent oil leak. I think it's coming from the rod change shift seal. So I'm going to buy a new one and replace it anyway. Even if it's not the major cause of the leak, I still think it's a major part. So... I'm buying one of these.

http://gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp...SealKit&cat=18

How hard is this to get to? It seems like a VERY simple install, but I'm wondering what all it's going to take to get to the part. Am I going to have to pull the engine, or can I get at it from above or below if the car is jacked up?

Also, I'm going to do a leak down test and a compression test on the car. If there's anything else to be fixed then I'll be pulling the head off. I'm going to be buying a gasket set for the car's top end (Copper gasket) just to replace them, but I'm wondering if I need to worry about the studs in the head... Are they prone to breaking or if I take my time and use a lot of finess and lubrication will they be fine?
Also... I've read a lot of different descriptions on the engine gasket sets and a lot of them say either Pre A+ or A+... I have a 1989 mini30... it's got a 998 and I was almost positive it's an A+... but now I'm second guessing myself.
Thanks for any help guys.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Minimad
Mty, I see on MM you want to do your rod change seal.
  • put the car on ramps or jack stnds high enough to lay under & swing a hammer.
  • put the car in R
  • The rod change has 2 rods on it. the upper is bolted to the diff. Unbolt it.
  • locate the coupler on the lower rod change mechanism - it has 2 roll pins through it.
  • spray the crap out of it with PBBlaster or similar penetrant.
  • get a 5/16 (I think) punch -not a pointed end punch, not a flattened nail, not a srewdiver shaft, a real honest to God punch - then punch the front pin upwards and out the coupler.
  • put the shift mechanism out of the way.
  • clean the selector shaft going into the trans - don't want to ruin the new seals.
  • get an oil seal pick and remove the old seal
  • insert the new seals per directions
  • assembly is the reverse of disassembly
 
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 01:50 PM
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mk1leg
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From: Jersey C.I. UK
Just use 2 seals instead of the ally and O-ring as this is tricky to fit and you can break O-ring..............I always use 2 seals and have had on oil leaks since..............
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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elprofe
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I USED MAIN SEAL SEALER....10dollar fix.
Too lazy to tinker with all those little parts. I've the heard the pin in tricky as well.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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Welp... got it done. It was a simple job once I got the last guy's 2 seals out. He decided to do the quick fix, but I guess he didn't take the old beat to hell, torn up seal that was behind the one he put in... THAT'S what was leaking from there.

But I found a new leak. The Differential seals are leaking. YAY!!
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MtyMous
Welp... got it done. It was a simple job once I got the last guy's 2 seals out. He decided to do the quick fix, but I guess he didn't take the old beat to hell, torn up seal that was behind the one he put in... THAT'S what was leaking from there.

But I found a new leak. The Differential seals are leaking. YAY!!
Another conquest in the never-ending struggle of mankind against LBC oil leaks!

Differential seals means pulling the axle shafts and pot joints. That means partially disassembling the suspension at the hub. So if there's any work needing done on the other end such as bushings, bearings, shocks, CV's, balljoints, tie rods, etc.... it would make sense to do it all at once.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 08:50 AM
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Well I had to replace a stud on the side that the main leak is on (Left hand - passenger side) and I took the thing down to the hubs and it all looked ok. Ball joints and tie rod ends seemed great (Well... good. haha) so I'm just gonna do the seal for now. I know that eventually I'm gonna do a urethane bushing set and some other things, so when that gets done (And funded) i'll do those bits too. But for now, the other seals look good. But as I was finishing up the last part of the repais yesterday, the gas started leaking. Ruptured and rotten fuel line coming from the tank. Thank God it was UNDER the car and not in the boot. So it was all done.. yay. I took it for a drive, and as I pulled in to Walgreens.... steam and coolant. SOMETHING caused it to overheat or the dang coupling where the heater hose connects to the lower hose is going out. Either way, I filled it with distilled water and got it home and it ran up to the same temps with no issues... weird.

Looks like I'll be flushing the entire cooling system sometime in the next week or two.
 
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