So I've got a pretty bad oil leak. And I don't have the time to pull the engine and find the exact location of the leak, so I am going to have to wait until about July 6th to pull the thing. Then I've gotta be back in Texas August 12th. So what does this mean? Well.. I am just gonna pull the engine, clean it up, check all the mechanics, and replace EVERY SEAL AND GASKET in the thing.

So what am I babbling on about? Well I want to know what gaskets I need to replace in my 1989 mini30. It has a 998 with a 4 speed transmission. I feel as though the linkage for the transmission may be the culprit for this leak, but if I'm going to pull apart the entire engine and clean it.. I'm gonna want to replace every gasket.

So please, can someone with experience post up every gasket and seal I'm going to need? I know this is a lengthy request, but I've been researching it for about 2 months now and I'm ready to purchase and I REALLY don't want to forget something.

Engine Gaskets

1) valve cover gasket
2) head gasket
3) intake/exhaust manifold gasket
4) Water pump gasket
5) Fuel Pump gasket
6) Timing Cover gasket
7) Thermostat gasket
8) Carb gasket
9) Oil folter gasket
10) Oil Pump gasket
11) Timing cover crank seal
12) Main seal
13) Sump (oil pan) gasket
14) ?
15) ?

Transmission Gaskets

1) Differential side cover gasket x2
2) Flywheel housing gasket
3) Gear change (rod change) seal
4) ?
5) ?

Here's the parts I've already decided I need. Tell me if they are enough, if I won't need them to stop an oil change or for good maintenance, or if they are the wrong part. There is a link to the part below it's corresponding picture.



http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/MSSK050/InvDetail.cfm









http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/ADU5738/InvDetail.cfm









http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/88G561/InvDetail.cfm








http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/GE.../InvDetail.cfm







http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/GUG701614CS/InvDetail.cfm







http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/GEG804/InvDetail.cfm



Again.. I THINK I have everything, but I may be wrong. Let me know guys. Thanks.

 

Your quest for a leak free Mini may be unobtainable. Fix what is wrong. You may cure the leak with a couple hours work on the shifter.

Replace other gaskets as you do maintenance on corresponding parts. Try snugging up all the bolts on the motor, first.

 

Actually, if you have the time to do all this, this is a pretty good idea, I say. At least this way you can write in your maintenance log "swapped all seals on <date>", so you know beyond a shadow of a doubt that they were changed. After you're done, spray the engine with a degreaser and wash off all the grime you can - that way if you still have a leak (due to a damaged cover or other defect not related to the actual seals), the location will be obvious.

As for a "leak-free" classic, this is TOTALLY a doable task, IMHO. My classic dripped oil from several leaking seals, even after I swapped my rod change oil seal (which was my main leak point). In my case, I swapped oil to the Castrol "High Mileage" formula, in 20W50 weight. The Castrol has the advantages of being a petroleum-based oil (which you must use in a shared sump oil system like the A-series engine - the differential transmission gearing will "unspool" synthetic oil molecules very rapidly), as well as containing a conditioner that slightly swells the engine seals, causing them to seat tightly. I was dubious of this claim myself until I tried it - even other 20W50 oils leaked through my seals but not the High Mileage formula. Now it's all I use in my classic, and even with 81K on the odometer the car runs like a top and only leaks about 2-3 DROPS of oil every few months, if that (crosses fingers).

One thing to keep in mind: if you use the thicker, 20W50 weight, you'll need to let the car properly warm up before driving, particularly in colder months. I start mine with the choke open and then choke it down as it warms, so I can keep the revs at or below 1200RPM or so. When the thermostat needle is close to the center mark, only then do I drive off. It adds an extra 10 minutes to my morning routine, but the warming time is well wrth it, given the added viscosity of the oil.

Best of luck with the swap and let us know how it goes! I may do this myself, if you end up accomplishing it without having to pull the entire engine (which I don't have the tools or the know-how to do).

 

ImagoX,

I will more than likely pull the engine. The paint on the block is chipping, and with every spark plug change/check I fear a paint chip entering the cylinder. So I'll be pulling it, and stripping it of all of its paint and repainting it (not sure what color yet). This will also make it easier to replace nearly every seal on the engine/trans. I am pretty sure that the main leak is the rod change seal. when I get the engine out, I'm going to inspect it, and try to find the leak. If I can't definitively determine the leak spot, I'm going to degrease the entire thing and let it sit until the leak begins again (I know it will) and diagnose from there. The reason for replacing every seal is basically so that I know the seals have been replaced, and if there is an underlying problem, I can inspect the gaskets for any tell-tale signs of an issue. Also, I noticed that the old gaskets (valve cover especially) seem dated and close to deterioration. I was going to remove the valve cover to simply give it a good polish, but I did not in fear that I would rip apart a cheap, dated gasket. I'd also like a rubber gasket for the valve cover. All of the valve cover gaskets I have found are quark or something cheaper. This will not take numerous removals of the valve cover very well, and will eventually rip or lose its seal.

I'm not going tor a TOTALLY leak free mini. I know that is somewhat of a mythical creature, but I would like to minimize the leak as much as possible. And the leak right now is ridiculous, so this MUST be done.

 

The rocker cover gasket is a cinch to replace - literally takes 10 minutes and costs like $5. I order them 5 at a time so I can have spares lying around. I got a tip to use a bit of gasket sealer on the COVER (not the block), so that if you need to pull off the cover for an inspection, the gasket will remain on the cover - that way, you should be able to pull off the cover several times without needing to replace the seal.

Let me know how it goes with the engine pulling. I'd really love to do this myself, so I can properly clean and dress the engine bay as well as paint my motor, but the though of all those connections, electrical and mechanical, coupled with the fact that I don't have an engine hoist, has me scared...

Good luck!!!!

-Matt

 

The mini engine is NOTHING to fear pulling. I've pulled 4 engines before, and I just finished pulling the engine on a [FONT=arial,sans-serif][SIZE=-1] Civic Type R EP3. Talk about a maze of connections/sensors/random things here or there. The mini will be a breeze for me[/SIZE][/FONT].

 

Another alternative is to go to NAPA or your FLAPS (Favorite Local Auto Parts Store) and buy a dye that you can add to the oil, then use a black light to pick out where the oil is leaking from. Nothing wrong with changing all the gaskets but it would be a good idea to figure out where the leak is really coming from. That way you can closely inspect the location of the leak to make sure the problem is a poor gasket and not a poor part that will need replacement in addition to the gasket.

 

This is exactly my plan before I replace ANY parts or gaskets. I kind of threw that in my above post. It's right in the middle of all the blabbering. lol

Thanks for the suggestion though. Never thought about a fluorescent dye. hmmm. lol

 

For anything you might have missed just buy a tube of black RTV and some gasket paper, that way you should be able to make pretty much any flat gasket in there......

Nothing wrong with a cork (not quark) gasket, most people have trouble with them because they overtighten the valve cover, causing it to bend/warp. If you have a cast cover there's less chance of this, but you might put a straight edge ruler across it and make sure it's flat - and do put the gasket cement on the cover like someone else mentioned. Don't forget the new rubber seals under the valve cover retaining bolts.

 

Hahaha. I JUST noticed I'm saying quark. Freakin experimental physics classes are apparently starting to invade my every day life. haha.

As for the gasket sealer and gasket paper, I already have it on hand and ready to go. haha. But I'd rather do it right the first time. The retaining bolt seals are brand new. And I don't plan on over tightening the gasket cover, but I do like rubber valve cover gaskets because of their more frequent moving, and the possibility of over tigtening. So it would be nice to have a rubber one for the assurance that it can take a little more abuse. If not, a CORK gasket will suffice. hahaha

 

Hi..I do not know if you have this in USA but Hylomar Blue is the best gasket sealer to use with all paper and cork gaskets as it does not harden or cures like silicone...........

 

Replacing every gasket is like using a shotgun to kill a mosquito, imo. But, its your time.

Find the leak and fix it. Change out the shifter seals you know are leaking as well as the valve cover. The blacklight is a good way to go. Clean off the motor. Add tracer. Locate leaks.

Other culprits for leaks:
-pot joint seals on the diff covers
-tappet covers and tappet cover bolt o-rings
-flywheel oil seal
-front crank seal
-timing cover gasket
-head gasket at rad end on rear (where oil feed is close to edge)
-insufficient crankcase ventilation will push oil out underway

Some gaskets will require you to have some technical skill and proper tools to fit, particulary if you pull the drop gear housing off the motor you must assure proper clearances on the idler. You'll also need a proper puller to remove the flywheel to get to the oil seal. you need to be careful and know what you're doing or you'll be worse off in the end.

BTW, not all gaskets need or should have a sealer to seal.

I always use a cork valve cover gasket since it can be re-used if not overtightened. just use sealer to attach it to the cover and it goes on/and off very easy. Rubber tends to squeeze out of place. I have used the silcon tappet cover gaskets with success.

 

Thanks Minimad.

Don't worry about the technical knowledge. I have plenty. I've rebuilt 2 engines already, and they were a bit newer and more complex than the little mini engines. I'm not positive if EVERY seal will get replaced, but 90% of them will get inspected. I don't think the bearings or anything INSIDE the casing is bad, but they'll get inspected anyway. Valve cover gasket WILL get replaced as well as a few othes that HAVE to be replaced. Basically I want to jsut order pretty much every gasket and seal now so that I cen replace what NEEDS to get replaced, and I have a spare fo those that don't get replaced now, but will need replacing later. It's just good insurance.

But once again. THANK YOU SO MUCH for everyone's help and suggestions. I love how this subsection of the board comes to life when a member really needs help or advice. This is by far my favorite forum that I'm on.

 

Good luck on your quest...

 

MAIN SEAL SEALER WILL TAKE CARE OF IT AFTER 100 MILES.
Cheap fix for 10 bucks and you'll spend more days driving than under your car.