I know that my right rear brake cylinder is leaking, but GB car parts lists two different bores. I'm not positive on which one I need to get.

It's either this one: 3/4" bore Rear Brake Wheel Cylinder. Used on early Mk1's to Chassis # A2S7 359770 and most Mini models from Mk2 on.

http://gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RWC

Or this one: 5/8" reproduction rear wheel cylinder used on Mk1's from chasssis # A2S7 359771 , all hydrolastic Minis from Sept 64 on and some 1275GT & 997 Coopers.

http://gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RWC1101

I 'm fairly certain I need the 3/4" one, but if you guys tell me other wise, I'll order a pair of whichever one yall tell me I need.

I have a 1989 mini30 with a 998. Ask if you need any more info.

 

Use the 3/4"

 

That's what I thought. I need to order them up.

Another thing I was wondering. Are there any 4-wheel disc conversions? I have only seen one that claimed 4 wheels (not just the front two) and it was a crazy kit. Something like $1,400.

 

that'S the only kit available.....save your money and buy something else.....they are useless and for looks only.

 

interesting. I'll take your advice.

 

save time and order the short line between the cyl and the rubber brake line now. Only a couple more bucks and I busted one of mine just trying to get it free of the cyl. Easier to just trash it and replace with a new clean piece.

also be sure you are getting a cyl kit and not just the cyl and then you'll get the gasket and a new fastener clip too - meaning you don't need to order sep. (now I have extras of both )

AND I'd toss in replacement springs for the drum shoes.....again only a couple of bucks and you're gonna have everything apart anyway. I assume you'll buy shoes and drums if wear warrants it.

Ended up rebuilding mine about a month ago - started as just a clean up until a cyl decide to start leaking. a project just in the nick of time.

p.s. - you can also buy a rebuild kit for those brake cyl's - easy to disassemble - and there's just a handful of o-rings and the rubber end caps to replace if you want to save a few bucks... I replaced 'em but saved the old to rebuilt into spares.

 

I second Elprofe's advise. IMO, Rear disc brakes on a classic would be un-utilized overkill.

Don't you already have the 8.4 discs up front? Seems like I saw a booster and the newer 8.4s on your car before it left KC. Those are good brakes.

 

yeah. I was just throwing around the idea of rear discs. It won't be happening any time soon if at all. I am gonna look over the entire system in the rear and fix what needs to be fixed. The parking break needs to be tightened up, and I thought it was just linkage, but if I get under there and I need new drums, shoes, and springs for the brake, I'll be ordering them too. (Might just order the springs in advance).

Capt bj. Do you have a link to the cylinder kit you were talking about, and the short lines? I was contemplating some steel braided lines. I have the money, and I know I'm not gonna get a bind or a hole in it from rubbing.

My whole reason for the rear brake upgrade or update is because I have a leaky right rear cylinder.

Keep in mind guys, I'm still a newbie. lol. I'm gonna be asking for personal opinions on parts and things too.

 

Capt bj. Do you have a link to the cylinder kit you were talking about, and the short lines? I was contemplating some steel braided lines. I have the money, and I know I'm not gonna get a bind or a hole in it from rubbing.

From MiniMania part number GWC1102 turned out to be the cyl kit and included the clip17H7949 and gasket 37H4642

Steed braided lines are used to replace the rubber sections, no? Most of the lines are metal already save some short lenghts of rubber at each wheel to allow the needed flex. In the rear that flex section (43 below) connects to a solid section that actually runs down to the cylinder (44)...

I'm talking about the copper section that goes from the end of the flex down to the cyl (44), it is about a 8 inch copper section (if u stay "stock"). You simply bend the copper to fit up to the flex junction point on top of the swing arm. Mine were frozen to the cyl and I ended up breaking the tube b4 getting it off the cyl end. Fortunately there's more access working at the rubber line end. MiniMania part SPB10, MOSS says GPP10AC



I suppose you could replace the entire length with a flex stainless but this is the factory set up.


From MM the drum spring kit is BRAKE02 - all 4 springs for both wheels
2 each of 17h8092 and 17h7621

(these are my old ones)

 

thank you so much. I'm probably going to go ahead and order up all of those parts. I want to do both sides at the same time if I can.

 

www.dsnclassics.co.uk

in the UK but prices are extremely reasonable and the service is great.
best prices on brake pipes hands down

 

You should go ahead and plan on replacing the shoes if the cylinder is leaking, they will be contaminated and you really can't clean them up once they're satuated.

Shoes are cheap, but you may need to sand them a bit to get them to fit the drums properly. Buy a can of spray brake cleaner too from your local auto parts store, and go ahead and bleed all the fluid from both the front and rear while you're in there. it's just good preventative maint.

This is a fairly easy DIY project, but do one side at a time so you have the other side to reference.

While you're ordering parts, get the Bentley manual, you'll use it the rest of the time you own a classic Mini. Direct from Bentley it's $60, and well worth it.

 

Thanks MINIdave. I did plan on bleeding the whole system. You are very right about the shoe being contaminated. I'll spend the few extra bucks and get the shoes. While I'm in there I'm gonna go ahead and see if the drums should be turned and possibly do that.

 

ALSO-----as you do this make sure your brake adjuster screw is functioning. They are fine thread and seize with rust easily. If frozen, you'd have to heat it well with a propane torch a to work it loose. Best done when wheel cylinder is off. Order new ones. Coat with anti-seize and install. Also check the little adjuster wedges for wear.

 

MINI FINS would look great if you need drums.

 

lol. I was JUST thinking that. I may just buy them anyway. lol

 

$$$$$$$$$$$$ for something that doesn't show and adds little to performance, imho.

 

True. But I would only order them if new drums were necessary. I don't see that happening, BUT.... it's nice to dream.

 

they are cheaper than disc brakes and look cooooooooooool!!

 

that was my thought. I'm pretty sure that drums apply enough braking force for the rear of a classic anyway. I'm not gonna be doing any gymkhana any time soon. lol

 

I'd just order new regular drums... You'll probably have to get your drums turned and auto part stores won't do them because they're too small.

 

check bearings for play when you are back there.....I almost lost a wheel on a turn due to a neglected wheel bearing.

Haynes manual would be ideal to properly maintain your mini.

 

I have a Haynes manual. It's great. And I already checked the wheel bearings when I took the rears off to check the brake cylinders. In pretty good condition. I've always checked my bearings since we almost lost an axle on the boat trailer a few years ago.

 

Does this look like it's all I need? I think I included everything. Let me know if I'm missing anything.

 

check trailing arm for play and lube accordingly.....if rebuilt is needed the kit is fairly inexpensive.

Sometime these assembled incorrectly and the grease nipple is not visible.