Merry Christmas everyone.

I have a few questions that are not so much important but just things I was curious about so here we go.

1. I have a 1976 Austin Mini w/998. Are there any badges or other marking that sould be on the back of the car. Mine has none and I just wondered what should have been there in that year. (pics please)

2.Did they put out from the factory a list of options like the do now on new cars? Things like floormats, mud flaps passenger side mirror, fog lamps, etc.. I just wondered what sort of things they offered in or around 1976. If there is such a list or broucher where would I find one?

3. Does it matter to your insurance company or the next person you sell the car to etc. what purchase price you put down on the title? Could the insurance comany say something along the lines of " you only paid "X" for the car so thats all we are going to pay out"?

Thats all I can think of for now, I'm sure I will have more off the wall question soon. Thanks.

 

I don't think that your mini would have any extra badges on the back except maybe an Austin badge. My Mini has a Mini 1000 badge on her because she's a British Leyland Mini 1000.

 

1. Likely "1000" (it was Leyland then too)
Bonnet = right side of pic, fourth row down, 2nd from right - "MINI" badge blue
Boot lid = "1000" chrome emblem center of pic between Riley Elf & 1275



2. There may be, but something though I've never seen one. There wasn't anything ay the MG dealer I worked at in the early 70's. Most stuff was aftermarket by dealers. As its a Mini 1000 and not a significant model, like most Minis, it doesn't matter what you put on. The Mini is the Mr Potatohead of cars. Make it your own...

3. Yes. Most classic Mini owners get classic insurance with an agreed value for coverage. IE, mine is $10,000. Otherwise, you run the risk of the insurance company opting for their values. Since there is no way to establish what your car is worth in the US you are at risk. How can you prove what it is worth? Especially if you said you paid $500 for it on the title? Use Hagerty or similar companies that specialize in classic cars. Be aware they require photos of the car, there may be mileage restrictions and require the car to be garaged pic also. I have American Southern Home Insurance Company through Atlas Insurance PO Box 688 Amelia OH 45102 for 2 Minis $236/year one @ $10K one @ $5K no mileage restrictions

 

1. I have a 1976 Austin Mini w/998. Are there any badges or other marking that sould be on the back of the car. Mine has none and I just wondered what should have been there in that year. (pics please)
MINI 1000 BUT WHY BOTHER BADGELESS IS BETTER IMHO

2.Did they put out from the factory a list of options like the do now on new cars? Things like floormats, mud flaps passenger side mirror, fog lamps, etc.. I just wondered what sort of things they offered in or around 1976. If there is such a list or broucher where would I find one? SPECS ARE ACCORDING TO VIN NUMBER I DOUBT ACCESORIES WERE INCLUDED IN THE SPECS, TRY MINIMANIA.COM ARTICLE ON HOW TO READ YOUR VIN NUMBER.


3. Does it matter to your insurance company or the next person you sell the car to etc. what purchase price you put down on the title? Could the insurance comany say something along the lines of " you only paid "X" for the car so thats all we are going to pay out"?
YOU CAN PUT ANY AMOUNT YOU LIKE, BUT WILL ONLY PAY STREET VALUE AFTER THEY DO THEIR RESEARCH IN CASE OF TOTAL LOST. THERE ONLY A FEW COMPANIES THAT WILL INSURE YOU FOR DECLARED VALUE, IE: AAA, HAGERTY, AND FARMERS.

 

If you want to add emblems or script to your car, be warned that they are quite expensive for what they are. A Mini bonnet badge from any of the US sellers will run you $20-$40 depending on the rarity and desirability of the badge. The boot scripts are similar money.
I just installed the AUSTIN MINI one (4th down on the left column in that picture) on my boot. I ordered it with other parts from England and it was still almost $20.

 

1. the one on the bonnet right now is just a plain cross, what is that one?

2.I know I probably wont find what was on "my" car, just wondered what the salesman might have asked me what I wanted to add.

 

1. the one on the bonnet right now is just a plain cross, what is that one?
are you sure it's not Innocenti?........................................ .................j/k

I would put one that goes with the year of registration. I have a newer model, but put an older badge since it already had the three holes on the bonnet.

 

does the cross look .like this?

 

debadged
debumbered
side lites gone
tails & grill swapped for MK-1

simplicity!

 

No, like this

 

In that case, you need this one

 

OK so whats the difference?

 

I think the grey/red one is from an 80's Mini. The other from a 70's.

 

http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/DA.../InvDetail.cfm

This attractive badge was used on the Mini Mayfair, but it will fit on any MK3 Mini. Will fit earlier cars if you drill three holes!

2.75" tall.

 

Give your mini some wings and get the stick-on with your preferred emblem. Chrome looks nicer than the black plastic of the OG one.

 

I agree. I put on an early Austin front plastic & chrome emblem by trimming off the pins, filling & smoothing the backside with epoxy, then using 3M trim doublefaced tape.

 

My bonnet badge looks like MINIxB's - the one with swirling L. I haven't been able to find one in any of the catalogs.

 

Difference is ther year of the car....yours is the correct one and the closest available is the black one. The other one is from a rover minis from the early nineties.

 

Hi there, I just thought I would chime in here on the insurance bit.

I noticed another poster, Minimad, mentioned insurance which is ironically the company I work for. I am the collector car here at American Modern Insurance Group and American Southern is one of our operating names in the southern states. Anyhoo, please get agreed value coverage for your vehicle and do not worry about what the title reads. So many people buy cars in pieces and then when they are assembled they are worth way more than what they bought it for but the insurance company doesn't say "well you only paid this much because look at the title", they look at the current value. With collector vehicles, always always get agreed (not stated which is actual cash value up to the limits) value coverage, then in the event of a total loss the policy limits are what you receive. Agreed value coverage means the policy limit amount is agreed upon with you and the insurance company at the time the policy starts. And also remember to always keep those limits up to date!

The one thing that you should watch on placing the selling price on the title is if your state charges tax on that amount which if it does make sure the amount you place is accurate otherwise you will receive a letter from the titling department asking you to document the price you purchased the vehicle for, they may even contact the previous seller. So don't try to avoid paying extra taxes by listing the amount of purchase as less than what it is....unless you know the seller of the vehicle will agree with you if the state contacts them!!!!