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Windscreen seal problem

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Old Oct 14, 2007 | 05:52 PM
  #1  
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Windscreen seal problem

Ok...here's one for the restorer types (Norm, I'd appreciate your input here).
I bought new front and rear windscreen seals for my Mini, since it's now back from paint and being reassembled. The car has a 91 body, so I ordered the Mk3/4 seals for the front and rear glass.
Today I was going to install them and when putting the seal on the glass, discovered that each seal was about 1-2 inches too long. Big gaps between the glass and rubber.
These seals come as a big loop, so there is no end to cut off to size. Am I supposed to cut a piece out and silicon the ends together? Hit the rubber with a heat gun a shrink it on? Did they send me the wrong seals? HELP!!!!
 
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Old Oct 14, 2007 | 06:39 PM
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i sent you a PM with this thread but, i guess i should post it on the thread so everyone can see

http://www.sunshineminis.org/forums/...ic.php?t=10872
 
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Old Oct 14, 2007 | 06:40 PM
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No don't cut it

I just installed my front glass and found the same thing........ if you install it on the glass, that is.

If you install it on the car first and then work the glass into it, everything fits perfectly.

Was able to get it done in about an hour, with the use of some plastic tools and WD-40. Do you have the tool for the fillet?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2007 | 06:42 PM
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P.S. ......buy a can of White grease..to spray into the rubber windscreen seal.......it will take out alot of the muscle work, when intalling the spline
 
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Old Oct 14, 2007 | 07:32 PM
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From: Just around the corner from the Dragon :~)
I removed mine because it was fogging at the edges and the rubber seal was cracking at the upper corners, plus the chrome filler was toast. Here's what I found when I removed the old:




Nothing! No rust at any of the welds, as pretty as the day it rolled off the production line.

Finished with black filler instead of chrome:



Only thing I wish...... was that I had bought the wider version of the seal. I had to trim some of the headliner material back to make sure it didn't show beyond the edge of the rubber. I'll more then likely replace this again next spring, after the respray of the car from the gutters down.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2007 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Smokey
No don't cut it

I just installed my front glass and found the same thing........ if you install it on the glass, that is.

If you install it on the car first and then work the glass into it, everything fits perfectly.

Was able to get it done in about an hour, with the use of some plastic tools and WD-40. Do you have the tool for the fillet?
I think that's the answer I was looking for. The Haynes manual (and a few other places I saw) said I should put it on the glass before putting it on the car. No, I don't have the fillet tool. Is it really necessary (and worth $20)?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 04:19 AM
  #7  
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the too is very useful
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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You can fashion a tool out of a coat hanger. But, I don't think it is as strong at the wire loop on the tool. I'd opt for the tool.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 08:01 AM
  #9  
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Last night, I tried putting the seal in the rear window frame. It went in, and looks like it will hold the glass in there fine. How do I get the glass in? The "string method" is in the Haynes manual, but the MiniSports site says not to do it as it can tear the rubber. Any hints?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 08:34 AM
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Jeez man - after all the $$ you've spent on that thing, you're balking at a $20 tool?

get it and then loan it to other club members. C'mon - be a hero.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 08:48 AM
  #11  
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I haven't spent that much. I paid $4600 for the car, about $500 in parts the 1st time around, $550 for rust removal, $1095 for paint, about $600 in parts this time around and that's it. I'm in for less than $8000 including 2 years insurance and registration so far.

I'm not balking at a $20 tool, I'm wondering if it's needed. You guys say it is, good enough for me, I'll get one. I have discovered over the years that having the right tool can make things 1000% easier (yes, I meant a thousand percent) but my wife is bugging me about teaching another class to pay for the Mini parts I just got, cost is an issue.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 09:19 AM
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LOL... I'm just giving you a hard time. I'm on a budget as well, and I feel your pain.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 02:30 PM
  #13  
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I'm trying to get her to agree that I need new carpet ($85) for the Mini when the old carpet is still perfectly serviceable.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Agro
Last night, I tried putting the seal in the rear window frame. It went in, and looks like it will hold the glass in there fine. How do I get the glass in? The "string method" is in the Haynes manual, but the MiniSports site says not to do it as it can tear the rubber. Any hints?
Set the glass into the bottom of the seal. Start lifting the seal over the glass edge working across the bottom, up one side, across the top until you have one upper corner left. Keep working it over the glass until you can finally press the glass down. Use a plastic (not metal) instrument to do the lifting/prying of the seal. Plastic is more slippy and won't tear the seal or scratch the paint. Use a lubricant (dish soap or a little white lithium grease). Then install the finishing strip using the proper tool & the white grease. It'll slip in faster than you can believe.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 03:58 PM
  #15  
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Ok, thank. Hopefully, I'll get home in time to try that tonight.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 06:47 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Agro
I'm trying to get her to agree that I need new carpet ($85) for the Mini when the old carpet is still perfectly serviceable.
just buy it and explain later, she'll understand.......and if she doesn't, at least you'll still have the new carpet
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 09:49 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Agro
I'm trying to get her to agree that I need new carpet ($85) for the Mini when the old carpet is still perfectly serviceable.
The new carpet looks so much better than what the Mini's originally came with it. Mine didn't really need it but it looks sooo much better with it.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 07:08 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Minimad
Use a plastic (not metal) instrument to do the lifting/prying of the seal. Plastic is more slippy and won't tear the seal or scratch the paint.
This reminds me...

IMHO, EVERYONE that works on cars should have a set or two (or three even) of THESE:



I bought these on a lark for like $6 and use them CONSTANTLY. They won't mar body panels and sound like they'd be perfect for this job as well... I'd get a few sets if you find them as they will chip over time, but they're so cheap who cares?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 08:04 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ImagoX
This reminds me...

IMHO, EVERYONE that works on cars should have a set or two (or three even) of THESE:



I bought these on a lark for like $6 and use them CONSTANTLY. They won't mar body panels and sound like they'd be perfect for this job as well... I'd get a few sets if you find them as they will chip over time, but they're so cheap who cares?
What are they for?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 08:08 AM
  #20  
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Prying.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 08:58 AM
  #21  
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Well, since I have to go to HF in the next couple of days anyway...
 
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 09:28 AM
  #22  
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They have a beefier set as well for about twice the price (still cheap), but the black ones have the nice little puck end for hammering (if needed). They open door panels, dash panels and all sorts of things without marring the finish and are definitely a good investment.
 
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