Electrical Ready to attempt rear fog light toggle switch install
#1
Ready to attempt rear fog light toggle switch install
I have all the parts ready to install the rear fog light toggle on my r56. I have thoroughly read the instructions posted here.
I’m looking to hear from anyone else who has attempted this or at least taken apart some of the same pieces who provide further hints or warnings. Was there anything else you wished you knew about or would have done differently?
I’m looking to hear from anyone else who has attempted this or at least taken apart some of the same pieces who provide further hints or warnings. Was there anything else you wished you knew about or would have done differently?
Last edited by javedikian; 02-27-2009 at 10:47 AM. Reason: formatting
#2
#4
Yes, but I don't want to go through all the trouble to take everything apart and not have the icon for the switch. Pelican Parts has the best price at 82.xx. I have the lights in but waiting a few more weeks before buying the switch cover. At least those dumb blank inserts are gone.
While everything is apart, is there anything else I can/should install like USB or the iPod connection?
While everything is apart, is there anything else I can/should install like USB or the iPod connection?
#5
#6
I am going to install one of those Kuda mounts for my phone/ipod. Seems like i have to take apart the same area. Might as well do it all at once.
http://www.kudausa.com/kuda_mount_an...07-34-529.html
http://www.kudausa.com/kuda_mount_an...07-34-529.html
#7
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#8
Go to http://www.minspeed.net/R56BLK.htm for the brake light kit -- highly recommended as a cheap way to get people to see you better, and you can buy it there with the light assemblies if you didn't order them originally.
UPDATE Dec2009: Minspeed has been sold off; if you want to go get the light assemblies yourself somewhere, the part numbers are 6324-2-751-707 (right side) and 6324-2-751-708 (left side)
UPDATE Dec2009: Minspeed has been sold off; if you want to go get the light assemblies yourself somewhere, the part numbers are 6324-2-751-707 (right side) and 6324-2-751-708 (left side)
Last edited by basil49; 12-11-2009 at 08:18 AM. Reason: Minspeed ceased selling MINI stuff Dec2009
#10
no idea on that one -- the labor to install any switch in that location is a PITA, so I live with the "blank spot"
Glad you like it! -- designed it myself; see my gallery, and PM me if you wanna ask more (take it offline from this thread).
and where did you get that hitch plug? i've just got a hole, the black plug i got from mini do more is MIA.
Last edited by basil49; 04-23-2009 at 09:46 AM.
#11
#12
#13
I don't have all the costs here at work. I had ordered the lights and toggle switch but forget where - could have been minspeed.net. The switch was $8. I ordered the new switch plate from Morristown for 70.18. The switch plate took some patients to pry off. Not even sure I could explain but you'll figure it out.
When I was putting everything back together, it seemed like I did not really have to take off the key sensor and the trim above the glove box as these are behind the center console. If I were to re do it, I'd leave those and see if it makes a difference.
Word of warning: the tabs behind the side center console trim are sharp, so protect the center console when removing the passenger side. I almost scratched mine but caught it in time. Other hint would be on the connections behind the A/C. Press the clamp down (in) and slide it to the right to release.
I also finally found this awesome video on how to take everything apart:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...al-on-r56.html
This is the link to the photo when taken apart:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...2&id=569601454
When I was putting everything back together, it seemed like I did not really have to take off the key sensor and the trim above the glove box as these are behind the center console. If I were to re do it, I'd leave those and see if it makes a difference.
Word of warning: the tabs behind the side center console trim are sharp, so protect the center console when removing the passenger side. I almost scratched mine but caught it in time. Other hint would be on the connections behind the A/C. Press the clamp down (in) and slide it to the right to release.
I also finally found this awesome video on how to take everything apart:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...al-on-r56.html
This is the link to the photo when taken apart:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...2&id=569601454
#14
I just ordered a rear fog kit (including toggle switch, but not new console cover) from outmotoring. The item description also includes a link for a DIY install from somewhere on NAM that includes pics of taking the console apart.
#15
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just put the switch in. Kept the original switch cover. It was a MF-er. About 2.5 hours for me. Removing the wire harness held me up. I missed the above post on how to remove it by rotating the band across the back. Also the switch cover was impossibly tight to remove from the panel. I decided I would just break it off after 30 mins of wrestling. It happened to pop off when I really forced it.
Although I haven't verified this, it looks to me like it *may* be possible to just yank on the cover from the bottom and remove it without all this hassle.
You would need to still remove the back plate of the cubby hole in order to get your fingers behind it. It might break the clips on the cover though. I personally wouldn't try it on my car. Maybe someone can take a closer look once they disassemble the panel. I ran out of light and patience.
Although I haven't verified this, it looks to me like it *may* be possible to just yank on the cover from the bottom and remove it without all this hassle.
You would need to still remove the back plate of the cubby hole in order to get your fingers behind it. It might break the clips on the cover though. I personally wouldn't try it on my car. Maybe someone can take a closer look once they disassemble the panel. I ran out of light and patience.
#16
The speedo cover has to come off and the left and right side console covers as well to get to those 4 screws. But I don't think the key sensor or the trim above the glove box needs to be removed because they are behind the console. The switch plate is a pain. I thought about breaking mine too before I got it off. I just looked and I still have it and it's undamaged. So if anyone breaks/scratches theirs, I have one to sell.
#17
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What I mean is, is the face of the console (black plastic) preventing the switch plate from just popping off? In that way, you wouldn't have to remove any screws. I'm not sure it's possible, just more of an observation.
The speedo cover has to come off and the left and right side console covers as well to get to those 4 screws. But I don't think the key sensor or the trim above the glove box needs to be removed because they are behind the console. The switch plate is a pain. I thought about breaking mine too before I got it off. I just looked and I still have it and it's undamaged. So if anyone breaks/scratches theirs, I have one to sell.
#18
#19
OK, I just had to take everything apart to fit a rattle from my iPod tray in the secret compartment. So I can confirm what has to be removed to remove the center console.
The trim behind the tach has to be pulled out but I leave it sitting there and work around it to get the speedo screws out.
The left trim under the secret compartment has to come off to get to the speedo screws.
The Speedo cover snaps into the outer top of the center console so it has to come out OR remove all 4 screws on the front and loosen the 2 screws in the top of the dash enough so the console can come out.
The knee panel under the steering wheel has to come off (3 screws) so the center console left side trim can be removed.
The right panel side trim has to come off.
The trim behind the coin tray (behind the aux port) has to come out to remove the T30 screw.
Remove the 2 side screws on each side (4 total) holding the center console and that's it.
The key sensor and trim above the glovebox DO NOT have to be removed.
It really is easy. I didn't even need to refer to anything to do it again. Just remember to cover areas you're working around to avoid scratches. It also helps to arrange the removed screws off to the side so that it's clear the side, height (upper or lower dash) and direction (horizontal L/R or vertical up/down) they go back in.
The trim behind the tach has to be pulled out but I leave it sitting there and work around it to get the speedo screws out.
The left trim under the secret compartment has to come off to get to the speedo screws.
The Speedo cover snaps into the outer top of the center console so it has to come out OR remove all 4 screws on the front and loosen the 2 screws in the top of the dash enough so the console can come out.
The knee panel under the steering wheel has to come off (3 screws) so the center console left side trim can be removed.
The right panel side trim has to come off.
The trim behind the coin tray (behind the aux port) has to come out to remove the T30 screw.
Remove the 2 side screws on each side (4 total) holding the center console and that's it.
The key sensor and trim above the glovebox DO NOT have to be removed.
It really is easy. I didn't even need to refer to anything to do it again. Just remember to cover areas you're working around to avoid scratches. It also helps to arrange the removed screws off to the side so that it's clear the side, height (upper or lower dash) and direction (horizontal L/R or vertical up/down) they go back in.
#20
I can confirm that it is possible to remove the bezel without disassembling anything. The snaps are tight....very tight but with a window wedge (Wurth part no 7145832) you can un-snap the clips using your new panel as a reference point as to where the clips are. The trick is it has to come straight in and out. No twisting or pivoting of the piece as it has some trim guides at the very bottom. I was literally done in less than 15 minutes..un-snap replace switch in empty slot, snap new bezel in. Hope this helps. The door wedge is a plastic composite and it doesn´t chip or scratch the dash opening. I was doubtful in the beginning but it was the easiest upgrade to date. Thanks for all the helpful info from all of you and hope this can help in turn.
#22
I will try to do that this weekend. The window wedge looks like a big flat plastic chisel. I simply started at the left top corner. With a friend seated to the left, you insert tool and pull gently on trim piece. As soon as it moves out a little from dash, friend holds tension on it to keep it from snapping back in and you move to the right and get clip number two, etc...I think I can video with my phone. I will try later tomorrow. I promise it is unbelievable how easy. I am still surprised it went that well.
Charley
Charley
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