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In an effort to diagnose a new fun clunk when hitting a speed bump... I snapped the brake caliper bolt off the guide pin.
caliper was loose.. could wiggle it.. I shouldn't be able to wiggle it... (Bushings replaced 6m ago.. not end links.. multiple shops say it's not in the suspension.. I had this same clunk before and it was the caliper loose)
Torque wrench set to 26ft lbs... Ok.. let's tighten this thing...
Click.. *snap*
Well I didn't want to go anywhere this weekend anyways!
ordered new caliper guide pins and bolts from orileys as mini isn't open around here on weekends. I'll check with them Monday as orileys is a Tuesday delivery.
Ah well.. wouldn't be my river if she didn't break when I looked at her wrong.. or manhandle her.
I purchased a 2012 R60 S for my daughter when she started driving. I've done some maintenance (plugs, coils, VANOS sensors) and added USB ports and a dash cam. However, today I changed both intercooler pipes (hot side is a bit witchey what with that muffler bolted to the frame behind all those hoses), added a GFB DV+ and an M7 catch can, and noticed what appears to be a missing connection. I buttoned the intake up before taking a good photo but I can remove the air filter hose (goes from front of car to the air box) to get a better photo when my daughter gets home.
Anyway, the connection appears to be in a coolant line that runs from the driver's top left of the radiator to the engine, and is in a 90* elbow. I searched but did not find a connector "just hanging around" so wondered if maybe the part was replaced with a unit with a sensor for some option her car doesn't have.
I_Forge_KC,
Thanks for the quick reply. When we got the car the PO showed receipts for a new thermostat housing, new HPFP, new turbo oil lines, and a few oil changes, etc. but I was afraid I had disconnected something and then "lost" the connector.
I_Forge_KC,
Thanks for the quick reply. When we got the car the PO showed receipts for a new thermostat housing, new HPFP, new turbo oil lines, and a few oil changes, etc. but I was afraid I had disconnected something and then "lost" the connector.
There is also a new, updated radiator hose that removes that elbow. That sensor will eventually leak.. That's one of the common spots. You can also take that sensor out, put some black rtv around the gasket, let it cure the push it back in.. that will stop it from leaking.
geekd4d,
Thank you! As you can tell by my join date and post count, I am mostly just a lurker, which has been awesome because I found answers to my questions without having to ask (and show my ignorance). I purchased an OBDII reader from ECS based upon threads I found here, and then came back for guidance (VANOS? sensor, plugs and coils, keep runflat vs non-runflat, etc.) and now here you and I_Forge_KC are helping out a noob on his first post...awesome community for sure. I do have to admit I must remind myself that it's her car and not mine because as I lurk some thread or another I get the urge to mod her car (which is why she now has additional USB in her car)...and I have a Volvo S60 T6 that could use some new stuff.
But for fear of derailing this thread, what I did today was intercooler pipes, catch can, and diverter valve replacement.
Its because they didn't add in the module to auto fold until 2013. There is a company that will retro fit this for $$$
i looked into adding in the module but ended up not being worth it. Check out my coding add-ons in the coding thread, a lot of really cool stuff you can do with ncsExpert.
I'm coding with bimmercode. Do you know if I can do the same things with your add-ons?
It's fully a custom intake. Might be able to fit something in similar, as long as the washer fluid reservoir is relocated.
The 17x8.5 wheels needed trimming of the plastic and some of the metal in the wheel well to prevent rubbing. Offset is et40, I also have a 5mm spacer up front.
Originally Posted by Dragonzsoul
I need details on the CAI!! Also, do the 17x8.5 wheels fit without any fender modifications? What offset are the wheels?
Still don't have the fenders or bodykit on yet but at least I got the CF trim rings and badge on. Wheels and tires are up next. I have twin toddlers now so life is, uh, busy.
I painted the calipers and rotor hats (spread out over a few days). Used the G2 kit on the rotors and Rustoleum flat black high temp automotive paint for the rotor hats. In retrospect, I should have gone with satin instead.
Removed the rotors to make things easier. Removed the front pad carriers but not the rear. The bolts on the front are hex head but the back uses female torx. I bought one but it was the wrong size and didn't feel like trying again.
Am very happy with how they turned out. The finishing touch is Cooper S stickers but they haven't arrived yet.
Looks nice! I like your wheels!...I have the same 18” silver fan spokes on our Countryman S All4 in Light Coffee color. The wheels and the Michelin Sport A/S 3+ tires transformed the car over the stock wheels with 17” runflats! Incredible how better the ride & handling are over stock drab looking wheels!
Yeah, I really like the turbo fans. And with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires, the car was transformed. I also really like the two tone black and silver JCW wheels -- not usually a fan of black wheels but those have really grown on me. I still have the stock 17" wheels for winter.
Today, I replaced all my front facing halogens, and the license plate bulbs on my '13 r60 jcw for LED's that match the bixenons. They look so damn good! Also dropped in an Alta oiled foam panel air filter. Meanwhile, I noticed that my intake was barely hanging on to the turbo! The hose clamp was super loose and with zero force at all, I pulled it right off. I've never done any intake work on this car since I've owned it, so I'm guessing it's just been like that since I bought it 2 months ago. I noticed a MASSIVE difference with the new filter and having the intake actually on properly. I can hear/feel the turbo spool. Can't wait for the catless dp, Wagner intercooler, colder plugs, forge uprated dv, and a stage 2 from Mario!
