It is scary to see that some of us are willing to put aside money in order to buy a new clutch for the CM. We are just a small sampling- but in this case- "where there is a smelly clutch, there is fire". My other car is a Miata, and the differences in the clutch and shifting expirience are light years apart.

These are not inexpensive cars, and the fact that the clutch is already appearing as an issue as both inadequate, and poorly designed, screams for some type of recognition from Mini (BMW). My concern is that BMW has a history of ignoring problems and blaming the consumer. My GF has a 3 year old X3 that floods with every rain storm. The internet is rife with posts regarding this problem. The dealership does nothing other than blow out the drains and charges a couple of hundred bucks for it- and it still floods.

We have to keep tracking this issue. I just got the JD Powers questionaire in the mail and will report this issue. I love the car- except when I have to move from a stop!

 

This is really such a shame.

We LOVE our Countryman save for two huge faults:

1. Manual transmission / Clutch
2. MINI Connected / Nav (overwrought, over thought, overly complex, counter-intuitive, lacking basic features and painfully hard to use)

Fix these two things and a new Countryman will be in our garage every three years.

 

Ugh! And our new CMSA4 being delivered tomorrow has both these

 

YMMV

 

My issue has more to do with the car struggling to build rpms while climbing from a dead stop. If having to engage the clutch at a higher rpm as a result of the car being underpowered is at the root of the problem, then beefing up the clutch might make it last longer, but it still wouldn't address the root cause.

I would like to know if auto transmissions have a similar problem "off the line". I wouldn't think it is a manual vs. auto issue, but more of a weight/turbo lag issue that the auto deals with better.

 

I'd say it's weight, the tall first gear ratio, and the clutch behavior that provide the challenges. There's been some discussion about optimal getting-off-the-line with the CM4, like:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...l-drivers.html

Recent reviews tried to find the best minimum time startout approach - my quickest everyday result is revving up to about 2800 RPM and using the clutch (don't dump it) to get it going. Now, for aggressive getting going in the woods, you might end up with a pretty smelly clutch...

 

I have an auto "s" and have no problem with power from a stop to go on a hill.

 

Just to be sure we're comparing similar hills, I'm talking about pretty steep hills here in San Francisco, somewhere between 20 and 30 degree grade, from a dead stop (on the hill, not at its base). The car sputters until the rpms build up. I know I can engage the clutch at a higher rpm to get around the problem, but then I would be getting into the burn problem.

 

What, exactly, do you not like about it? I only ask because this is my first manual car ever (and I'm 45) so I have nothing to compare it to. For all I know it could just be the way it is and better than anything else. Seems to shift just fine. If there's a problem, it exists between the steering wheel and the seat.

 

I don't have many problems with the manual transmission on any of the MINIs. My only transmission issue is the choice of first gear ratio (too tall).

 

I drive around SF all the time, and, while it's not the most relaxing thing to be sitting at a stop sign at the top of an incredibly steep hill with a car behind you, the hill assist does give you about two seconds to rev up the engine and get the clutch engaged for moving ahead. I agree that there's more risk with the CM that it might stall, but practice makes perfect, sort of...

 

Your implication that the root problem is user error is unfounded and rather insulting.

If and when your clutch starts to wear prematurely or fails completely, I hope your Service Advisor does not characterize the problem in the same manner.

MINI USA would not be performing "goodwill" clutch replacements if they truly believed failures rested solely at the feet of the drivers, pun intended.

 

I was getting my other car inspected and while in the waiting room, picked up a copy of Automobile mag and right there was a write up on the CM and how they had to have their clutch and flywheel replaced at 15000 miles. They said it was a result of turbo lag, a heavy awd car and too light of a clutch/flywheel. Then another auto mag had their report on their CM and all the trouble they had with it, while the following page they had nothing but praise for the Juke. Great.

 

and heres one with nothing but praise besides the RFTs
http://www.autoblog.com/2012/06/07/2...yman-may-2012/

most automobile "reviews" and editorials. If you compare it to the juke, and see a 10k premium, you'd expect to see quite a bit of difference. But not everyone can discern that, and some are more focused on either pushing a brand or price point. Nor is everyone enamored with all of MINIs quirks.

The fact of the matter is the clutch is a weak point. Some will do better with it than others.

 

Sorry, I was referring to myself only with that comment. Reading it again I realize now that was not clear.

 

Just picked up our new CMSA4 this morning. With 84 miles of mostly expressway driving, no clutch odor yet...and I do know what a burning clutch smells like.

 

I'm no certified mechanic, but I feel confident most of the premature clutch wear is due to that stupid hill assist always on, and probably the extra weight. I'm always operating the clutch and gas faster than the hill assist likes. It may be causing owners to ride the clutch more and wearing things out premature. Hill assist should be a on/off switch

 

Just a thought for you guys, and I'm not even sure it would work... But have you guys thought about having your clutch-delay-valves removed (modified)? That's the one gripe I have with my 328xi is its delay valve. It makes some shifts (1->2) very tricky and requires feathering of the clutch too much some times. I'm planning on having mine taken care of this fall.

 

I don't know if that would do anything for 1st gear. And if removed and you're not careful you could shock the drivetrain and cause major damage.

A diesel motor would solve the problem (not gonna happen in US) ...less Turbo lag would do it...bigger clutch/flywheel would work ... and a 1st gear with 1 - 3 extra teeth would do it. Which option is workable?

 

I don't think the CM has a CDV. I does not feel like it has one plus I looked on Real OEM and it's not shown on the parts diagram.

For what it's worth, I've removed the CDV on an 02 330ci, an 06 330i, as well as an 07 650i and it made the cars much more pleasant to drive. The 650 in particular has been completely transformed. It used to be impossible to launch smoothly, probably due to its exessive weight, but now it drives like a stick shift BMW should. If you're on the fence about it, just do it.

 

So really early this morning when there was no traffic I drove my CM downtown where there are some hills (I currently live where it's flat). I looked for the steepest hill I could find, which is about 6-8 percent grade. I did some hill starts and after about the sixth I smelled burning clutch. It was after a particularly aggressive start because without giving it enough throttle it seems to have a little trouble getting going. I hadn't ever smelled this before. Did a couple more but then decided that was enough.

I am going to be moving to the mountains where some of the roads are ridiculously steep (the reason I bought an All4) and the nearest Mini dealer is 2.5 hrs away, so this is somewhat disappointing.

 

the real problem roots from what nearly all manufacturers are doing.. Using Dual Mass FW systems.
Problematic since day 1, I'm not really sure why they still use them other than to save installation time. It's not worth it!
DMFW systems use spring loaded FW's vs a traditional, lighter, solid FW & a sprung clutch.
The only benefit is softer engagement & what seems like an easier learning curve for 'new' manual drivers.
There is rarely any aftermarket performance/upgrade clutch mated to a DMFW, because you can not increase the load clamping force, only friction material. (that doesnt make sense).
Upgraded/performance conversions are pricer than a standard/performance clutch upgrade because they also include a new, solid mass FW, hardware, etc.
(What I will be doing when my CMS4 clutch goes is simply converting to a performance clutch)
*no I shouldn't have to drop $1K+ for a problematic design, especially in under 3yrs. But whats the alternative?

Sachs/Valeo/LUK (all OEM suppliers) make 'Solid Mass FW COnversion Kits' as these DMFW clutch are known problematic (as well as having ridiculously pricey FW's that can not be resurfaced due to spring loaded design).
(however the DMFW clutches are still demanded by the 'Makes') ? crazy
*As of now, these type OE conversion kits are not yet available for this model.
(very popular on the VW 1.8T & TDI models. These basically mate a G60 FW & VR6 clutch kit, from the OES)

As we all know, the CM clutch has the same PN as the 09/10 Cooper/Club S. 235mm is not so small, but add additional wt. & AWD & it(*FW springs actually) becomes easily overwhelmed & loose clamp force.(resulting in a slipped clutch)

Th solution is simple, the cost is not.
when mine goes, in warranty, I will be persuading the dealer to do the install w/ 'my' clutch.

 

If removed it would help launches in first. I definitely notice that in my Bimmer that I have to feather it more than I'd like when starting in first, and the 1-2 shift. Sometimes even during spirited driving the 2-3 shift is not so hot.

I'm going to do it for sure in my car, I just have to figure out when . Also, finally drove a CMSA4 this past weekend and to me it felt like there was a CDV. It felt exactly the same as in my Bimmer (which isn't the greatest). I'm not 100% sure if it's there or not, but I'd suspect that it is. The whole point of the CDVs is that it saves the clutch for new drivers. IMO it's an avenue worth investigating. If my GF gets one in MT it'd be one of the first things done to it.

 

Well, my car left me on a flatbed on May 21st, and after nearly a month of back-and-forth, MINI is covering the clutch repair. At under 12k miles, there shouldn't even have been a conversation beyond 'here's your loaner, sorry for the inconvenience',
but instead they tried to accuse me of 'operator error' without a tear down. Been driving manuals for 22+ years, never once replaced a clutch... this clutch is too small for the.load. Period. Hope they figure out a long term solution as I don't want to deal with this.again... JCW clutch retrofit? We can only hope...
Tad

 

That bullshhhh💩, keep us informed