Anyone know anything about putting synthetic oil in the 's' MINIs? My husband always replaces the oil in our cars for synthetic oil. I don't want him touching my MINI unless I know that is not going to hurt it.

 

Your MINI was delivered with long life synthetic oil. MINI does not support the use of non-synthetic oil.

 

Cool! Thanks. I guess when we take delivery we'll find out things like this. I don't know anything about the engine I just love the car!

 

They don't change the oil for 10k. Would recommend you pick up a filter and have it changed around 5k...just make sure u use Synthethic.

Cheers

 

I really like the way you think Anteken .

...BUT... I have to ask... can you replace just the filter on a MINI without getting swamped by oil pouring out of the filter housing? I only have 1100 miles on my '06 MCS so far, so I haven't changed oil yet, and haven't investigated the orientation of the filter housing.

BTW - I have run Mobil 1 Full Synthetic oil exclusively in ALL of my racing and street engines for 20 years WITHOUT regret. Having seen engines torn down after many hours of use (and - in some cases, abuse), I can tell you that TRUE, FULL Synthetic oil is worth every penny.
.

 

I'd reccomed the thread about castrol out, mobil one in; as there is lots of good information about when, how and what to use when it comes time to change the oil. I know many change the oil at the end of the break-in.

 

Pretty sure that Mobil 1 is not a FULLY synthetic oil - may consider Redline, Amsoil, or Royal Purple

And I would get that oil out after 1K or 2K miles - motor is pretty much broken in.

 

Probably not broken in... While I can't speak with any experience with a MINI, with other cars following the owners manual break-in guidelines it is clear from the engine's gradual loosening up that break-in continues even after the break-in period. Also at least one car company did lab and field studies and found that engines fuel economy increased even up to 10,000 miles had accumulated on the engines in test as the engines broke in and internal friction dropped which the company interpreted as evidence of a longer the spec'd break-in.

I think it is a good idea to change the initial oil/filter at 1000 miles, unless the owners manual specifically forbids it. A new engine sheds a bunch of trash (metal particles, sand, etc.) and if the filter plugs up, this dirty oil bypasses the filter and is simply directed to the engine's main/rod bearings and other critical areas lubed by the oil.

Even if the filter continues to filter the oil, the oil becomes full of tiny particles that can exact a wear penalty on the valve gear. Some car makers as valve gear becomes ever more complex (variable valve timing and lift) add a second filter -- on a bypass oil path - to filter out the smaller particles the primary filter can't.

Lastly, it is not a good idea to as soon as the break-in time has passed, to begin hammering on the engine with the old dirty oil in place. To me this simply undoes any thing gained by following the maker's break-in guidelines for accelerated engine wear can't help but occur. The oil's not only dirty with stuff shed by the engine's internals, but is more heavily contaminated with fuel and water (and other combustion byproducts). (Too, even more applicable to the MINI, supercharged (and turbo-charged) engines generally experience more blowby that normally aspirated engines.) Gas and water contamination work to lower the oil's viscosity and compromise its ability to adequately lubricate under high load, high heat conditions.

Sincerely,

RockC.

 

Wrong answer.

Both standard Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 Extended Performance are FULL SYNTHETIC, non-blended oils. Always have been.

Read it for yourself:

Mobil 1 Information <-- click here

However, the "Mobil Clean" variants ARE indeed synthetic blends, and they do not claim otherwise on the MobilOil site. The other oils you mention are all exceptional full-synthetics as well, but can rarely be found anywhere near the price of Mobil 1 because they all tend to cater more to racers then the general public.

 

According to this thread, and some others on NAM, not all synthetics are created equal (this is the thread mentioned by motor on; https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=58053

 

Coopernicus - The best way to chagne the filter on the mini, is to unscrew the filter housing just a bit until you hear the filter seal break, then when you drain your oil, you also get most of the oil out of the filter housing before you even begin to remove it. Because of the two part (housing and filter element) design of the BMW/Mini filters, it's a much better experience than on most cars. But you need a darn big wrench to be able to grab the flats on the back of the filter housing, i think like 34 mm or something like that.

 

Thanks for that info. I just test-fit a 36mm socket on the filter housing, and it seemed to fit perfectly. That is the same fitment as the oil filter cap on my last car, a Porsche Boxster S, so I got lucky by already having the right tool for once.

Also, since the filter housing is mounted fairly high relative to the oil pan, it would appear that you can crack open the filter housing WITHOUT draining the oil first and the rest of the oil will NOT pour out through the filter housing - is that right? I HATE big, synthetic oil slicks on the floor of my garage !!
.

 

Yes, the oil filter housing takes a 36mm socket. I bought mine for $7 at Sears.
As mentioned earlier in this thread, remove the oilpan plug and let the oil drain. When it's about stopped, slowly loosen the filter housing until you break the seal and oil starts draining out. Go away for another 10 mins or so. When the oil has stopped coming out of the pan again, remove the filter housing. If you do a sort of wrist twist and tilt the opening upwards as you take it off the threads, you should be able to remove the housing without spilling a drop.
Enjoy.

 

Good info Agro - thanks.

 

If only I was so lucky. . . I usually end up spilling a teaspoon full. . . .

 

Then you've got one awfully large serving set.

 

My 1st oil change (5000 miles) I spilled nothing, the 2nd one I did myself (17500 miles after the dealer did the 10k) I got impatient, didn't let the housing drain, and spilled a bit under where Alice usually parks.
From now on, patience will be exercised when changing the oil.

 

Is the 36mm socket and procedure the same for the MC and MCS?

 

I believe that the MCS and MC use the same filter housing and location, so yes.
Oh yeah, the 36mm socket that everyone keeps talking about having to cut shorter, I had no problem using in the exact condition I purchased it in.
It's a craftsman socket, and I use it with a craftsman socket wrench.

 

Same here. I use the standard Craftsman socket and the fit is no problem at all.

 

Same Craftsman 36mm socket here, and there seems to be plenty of clearance for a socket wrench accessed from the top on my '06 MCS.