Mini #2...I worked on cleaning the intake valves today. Soaked 2 at a time then brushed, blew out, then scraped off the build up. It was a slow and painful process. I squeezed my head down between the firewall and the cylinder head to get a straight sight line and worked away. I did try walnut blasting but my gun was too wide to maneuver and the tip was too short to really get down in there.

Once my neck was killing me I gave up and pulled the water pump off and cleaned the housing area.

Then I decided to pull the bumper cover off in preparation for the plastic welder that is in the mail.


Almost done.

This picture doesn’t do justice to show how much crud came out.

Front end removed.

 

Great work, I am following you for more updates. Have a great weekend and Happy New Year.

 

Mini #1. I used an advanced scanner and went into all of the modules to look at stored faults. There were approximately 10 different systems and most of them had a fault or two with one having about 7. Most faults were related to low battery voltage and loosing power when the vehicle battery crapped out. I cleared them all and they did not come back with the exception of the rear pad sensor which is positively the reason for my red brake light on the tach.

I pulled the wheel and inspected everything. The outboard pad is “OK” but the onboard is shot. Additionally the rotor is worn excessively and dished. New rear brake kit on order and I decided to do the front at the same time.

The tires came in. I am trying to figure out the Mini TPMS system before I get the new tires mounted. My Autel TMPS tool would not read any one of the sensors. Autel ‘s online compatibility tool says my machine can program new sensors for it. But I don’t want to throw 4 sensors at it if I still have operational units in the car.

Mini #2. Not much going on here. I’m still waiting for the key and all of the cooling system parts.

I did find a used S bumper cover in the correct color here on the island. I picked it up cheap and may put it on while I am waiting for the plastic welder to arrive in the mail.

I cleaned the intake manifild and the throttle body. There was a ear wax type residue on the hoses and nipples. I wonder if it was some lube to help them slide together.

 

Mini #1. We dropped the car off at Firestone to get the front tires replaced. I left them two new TPMS sensors. Once they dismounted the old tires they discovered that the car just had regular tire valve stems. They decided to just put regular valve stems in there. They said that the car must not have a TPMS system. I’m tired with explaining to this shop how to do their job. The last 2 cars I took to them they did not line up the tire balance marks (red and yellow dots) anywhere close to the proper location on the rim (valve stem) and it took an excessive amount of lead to balance the tire. I had previously reset the system through the tach and I guess the system is still in learning mode. Once the light turns on I will take it back to them and have them install the new sensors.

Mini #2. The key arrived. I tried the emergency mechanical key and it works. I have too much pulled apart to try the electronic portion of the key at this time.

 

Warning big post.

I had a very productive day on Mini #2 the JCW edition.

I back flushed the heater core core and radiator. They seemed clean and definitely had a coolant mixture in them based on the color of the water than came out.

The thermostst and water pipe arrived (still waiting on the water pump) so I decided to install what I had. It didn’t go together easy, the water outlet didn’t want to line up properly. Then when I finally got it in position the three bolts didn’t feel right. They were tight, they felt like they had additional resistance. I pulled it back apart and I chased the threads on the head and then the bolts. I added some antiseize and this time it still was a pain to line up but the bolts went on like they are supposed to.

Next I went over the intake valves one more time. They are now as clean as I can get them. To recap I used a combo of soaking with brake cleaner then scrubbing with a toothbrush then a set of dental picks mixed in with some walnut shell media blasting with a shop vac and finally another rinse with brake cleaner and a blow dry with shop air.

Next I reinstalled the intake manifold, noise generator, and all of the intake piping. I made sure everything was reinstalled that I had taken apart over the last week or so. Well except the water pump and the drive pulley system for it.

I hooked up the battery and tried the key that just arrived from Germany. Yep it’s good, the ignition turned on and I checked all of the lights because I had the bulb check error. Replaced a couple peanut bulbs and the warning went away.

Then I decided to try and start it. I was only hoping to hear it run for a few seconds to make sure there was no major engine problems (death rattle, knocking, banging, etc). The first press of the start button was very promising, it ran for a second or two right off the bat. But the next several cycles would not catch. I could tell it wanted to run because it popped but it felt like it needed more fuel. I pulled the MAP sensor and sprayed some carb cleaner in the hole and quickly reinstalled the sensor and I got it to run. Then it continued to run on it’s own. I only ran it long enough to confirm that there was no major damage.

So so now I’m on hold again for the water pump.

It was still early and nice out so I wanted to do more. The plastic stapler and plastic welder had arrived the day prior so I popped the bumper cover off again and gave it a wirl. Man I wish I owned these tools years ago. They worked awesome.

First I used a Dremel to clean up the sides of the crack and remove a little paint (about 1/8 of an inch) around the split. Looking back now I would not have touched the paint on the front. The stapler worked so well and kept the split so tight that it would have only looked like a paint crack after the repair. But you’ll see in the picture that I have a 3/16 black scar line.

Next I installed the hot staples on the back side. I put them about 1/2 inch apart along the entire split while holding both sides tight against each other. The kit included a pair of side cutters to cut off the legs of the stapes once they cooled off.

Then I used the plastic welder and added new material on top of the staples. It’s not pretty because the nubs of the staples were sticking up and would catch the tip of the welder. But it worked well. The bumper cover material melted quicker than the plastic welding rods that came with the kit. This made sure both of the plastics infused together for a stronger bond.

I ran the welder along the front (paint side) of the bumper. It will definitely melt your paint. I added a very small bead of new plastic on top of the crack and them smoothed it out. Again, hind sight but next time I will leave the front alone unless I am ready to completely repaint the bumper. It would look much better right now if I didn’t mess with the front.

I used the plastic stapler on the broken broken radiator support as well. I trimmed the legs with a dremel and got them flush with the support. It work much better than clipping them with side cutters.

I reinstalled the bumper and snapped a photo. What do you think?



Bumper repair minus finish sanding and paint.

 

The bumper looks pretty good!
Keep up the good work!

 

Lots of updates for today.

Mini #1, JustA. Firestone put on new tires the other day then did an alignment. I pulled the rims off to do a complete 4 wheel brake pad and rotor job...they left the old wheel weights and installed new weights in other places. Then once I started looking they no where even closely aligned the tire balancing dot to the valve stem. I took it back to them and calmly expressed how disappointed I was. They fixed it but didn’t offer to comp me anything.

4 new rotors and new pads make all of the braking vibrations go away. LOL

I have a check engine light for P0012, camshaft retarded. I have not run any tests yet other than clearing the code and having it return. I’m going to do an oil change first...it’s overdue from the previous owner.

Mini #2, JCW. This is where the fun starts.

The water pump came in and I installed it. I cut down the nose of the shaft to mount it easier. It was still a pain in the butt. I removed it when I had the intake manifold off and accessed a couple of bolts from the space where the manifold sat. Unfortunately, I had already installed the manifold and just couldn’t get to a couple bolts. I supported the engine and removed the passenger motor mount to finish the job.

Filled it with distilled water, bleed the system and started it up. Now this is the first time that the motor has run in 5 years (possibly...that’s when the stickers on the plates expired). I checked everything and listened closely as she warmed up. All was good...even the AC compressed cycled on and off.

I buttoned everything up and took her for a spin around the block. There is lots of rust on the rotors so it really had some weird brake noise but she drove good. So good that I got the paperwork in order and drove her about 3 miles to the inspection shop near my house.

The line was long (about 7 cars) so I knew I had about an hour to wait. I got into the secret instrument menu, unlocked it, and then monitored menu 7 (coolant temperature). Everything seemed in order. I watched it climb slowly to 104C and she held there. I checked radiator hoses and heater core lines and they had good heat. I ran the heater and it’s blowing hot too. I think I got all of the air out.

She failed inspection but only for not having registration. Monday I will get it registered and then stop back at the inspection shop and she will be legal.

The previous owner must must have had is valve cover stolen in the past. I say that because he had chrome metal ones installed so tightly that they would spin the valve stem. I put a wrench on the valve stem and a small socket on the valve cap and they sheared off even with the valve core. I’m sure it was a combination of being too tight and corrosion from sitting for so long.

Reluctantly, I took the tires to Firestone and explained that I wanted new TPMS valve stems installed with my existing sensors and they were like “No we can’t do that. You need to buy new sensors”. I explained that my sensors are fully operational and showed them on my TPMS machine. But no dice. I decided to have them dismount the tires and said that I need a couple hours with the rims and then I wanted them to reinstall the same tires. I explained that I will install new valve stems in the sensors and bring them back to them for mount and balance. At first they were like “No, we will have to charge you twice for mounting and balancing”. That was going to be $60 per tire but them a more senior member came over and said “Sure we can do it for the normal one time fee, we just won’t close the invoice”. They made a work order that I reviewed and they had new rubber valve stems and tire disposal fee on there. I was like what the heck man...I’m putting the same tires back on and I’m bringing you brand new TPMS valve stems from my own stock and they will already be installed in the rims. They removed those fees and it comes in under $30 per tire/wheel.

Pictures to follow.

 

Here are are pictures of the water pump. I used a cut off disc from a Dremel. I worked slowly and cooled off the water pump shaft in a bucket of water after every couple seconds of cutting. It never got warm (I was able to touch it the entire time). I am confident that no damage as done to the seal or bearing in the pump.

This is made installation much easier. I actually slightly damaged the old pumps plastic impeller when I removed it because of the overall width and the small space between the motor and the frame rail. The new one went in much smoother.


Just a sliver of material holding the nub that I removed.

Comparison either old pump on the right.

Trimmed flush with the pulley flange.

 

Mini #2, the JCW is fully legal and on the road .

Monday I paid the registration and stopped back at the inspection shop and passed.

I did have a problem with stuck/spinning license plate screws link here but that’s minor.

I still have multiple projects on both cars but having them back on the road after 1 year Mini #1 and 5 years Mini #2 is a big step.

 

Mini #1 update.

I decided to rip apart the dash dash today and attempt to replace the radio display panel. Additionally, while I was in there I wanted to look at the automatic HVAC controls.

I made a video of the dash disassembly because the two that I watched on YouTube were garbage. Once I get it edited and uploaded I’ll post a link. I tried to show where the clips were that held each piece on because the other information I found was like “just pull hard, you won’t break it”. Well I don’t play that way. I hate brittle old plastic.

I also filmed the swap swap out of the radio display panel. It was not difficult, it just took time working with the small ribbon cables and their locking mechanisms.

I will say that the display is fully operational. The link to the replacement panel posted well above fixed my radio.

I also gambled and purchased a used HVAC control panel from eBay. I chose one that had the same switches as my car and it worked properly without any programming. It fixed my no recirculate and no MAX AC function problem.

Next will be to work on the P0012.

 

I decided it was time to work on the P0012.

I started with a oil and filter change. It didn’t work. In fact it generated more codes. They were all pending. I had P0011, 12, 14, 16, and 17. I cleared them but they came back immediately upon each start up. What was weird is if I cleared the codes while the car was running no codes would register. Only when I shut off the motor and restarted it is when they all would pop. That and the first start up each time would take extra long cranking before the motor would run.

Next I swapped the camshaft position sensors with no change. They both had a lot of gunk on them so I cleaned them and reinstalled back to their original position.

Then I pulled the intake VANOS solenoid. I could tell that someone was in there before because they had written exhaust on it with a paint pen. I had an aftermarket part on hand and rather than mess around cleaning the old one I put the new one in.

This is last item seemed to be my fix. I cleared the codes and ran it in the driveway for a while with no pending codes. I did a couple restarts and although the first one would require additional cranking no codes popped like before. I decided to take it for a ride. A week later and the light has stayed out so I’m considering it fixed.

 

I sold Mini #1 to a guy that I have been working with on his Expedition. He picked it up for a good price (below KBB average) and plans on teaching his wife to drive in it.

He is having a few problems that were not present when I owned it.

The battery crapped out within a week of him purchasing it. I’ve had the car for almost 3 months and it never failed...even leaving the car sit for a week or two without starting it. He was at work so I offered to go over and check it out. It started immediately with cables so I put in a new Interstate battery. I paid for all of this out of good will. The car cranks faster and starts right up...problem fixed.

It it has been raining a lot here and his hatch keeps popping open. I know that the rubber cover on the hatch button is and has been gone for some time (I bought the car this way). But of course it starts popping open the week after he purchased it. I suggested he purchase a new hatch trim that contains the button and the plate lights. I’ll put it in for free for him but I think he will pay for the part.

He is also complaining of an of an oil leak. I previously fixed a large leak from the vacuum pump. This definitely fixed the main leak. Before it was puddling up on top of the transmission. The only other thing I did recently was an oil and filter change. When I swapped out the battery I tried to look for the source but the car is too low and I didn’t have a jack with me. When I put in his new hatch button I’ll inspect it more. It appears to be coming from the front drivers side. It is dripping down onto the exhaust down tube and actually dripping off of an exhaust clamp there.

Im not a dealership and did t give him a warranty but at the same time I want him to be happy with his purchase. How much would you do before saying no more?

 

How is Mini #2 doing? Are you going to keep it for yourself?

Kat

 

Mini #2 the JCW is doing good. Yes, I’m planning on keeping this one.

Recently, I removed the yellow lense in the headlights. It looks much cleaner in my opinion.

Ive been having a random airbag light. I’ve read the code and it is for the occupancy sensor in the passenger seat. Some days it’s off, some on, and other times it goes on and off during a drive. I ordered a bypass module from eBay and it just arrived so it will be going in soon.

I detailed the car yesterday and I noticed that Firestone messed up again. When I had them remount the front rubber after I rebuilt the TPMS sensors they installed both tires with the inside marking on the outside of the rim. I’ll be going to see them tomorrow.


Egg yolks removed