Hi guys,

Just in the process of fitting my new Wilwood rear big brake kit, can't figure out how to remove the park brake cable from the rear caliper. Bentley manual is no help at all unfortunately.

Would appreciate some info, car is sitting in my father in laws garage up in the air with no rear brakes installed , and it'd be good to have a car ready to drive to work in on Monday!!

Cheers

Kevin.

 

Anyone??? Could really do with finishing this job off today!!!

 

Help - anyone at all?

 

I used a pair of slip joint pliers to move the lever on the caliper enough to get the "ball" out of the lever, then used a small drift and a hammer to get the cable out of the caliper housing. Hope this helped

 

I've got the ball out of the lever, so I'll try to work that cable out of the caliper tonight. Will let you know how I've gone - it seemed pretty stuck on though!!

 

Worked it out - it simply pulls out! It was caked in there good and tight after 4 years of brake dust and associated buildup, but a good dose of RP7 soon fixed that up!

Thanks a lot Fassbinder .

 

It feels a little weird resurrecting a 5-1/2 year old thread, but after using the search function several times, this is as close to what my issue is as I can find. Plus, it may help someone else who is having (or will have) this same problem.

My e-brake cable seems to be welded to the caliper (figuratively). I have beat the crap out of it from both sides, used a drift, tried to use a chisel between the caliper ear and the part of the cable that goes through the ear, etc., etc. It is not budging.

I sprayed some WD-40 on both sides of the ear last night, so maybe just some patience for it to soak in and loosen will do the trick. I will see later tonight.

In the meantime, and if the WD-40 doesn't help, does anyone else have any creative suggestions?

I don't kow yet if I am going to replace the caliper or not; I am trying to remove the caliper so that I can take out the piston and see if it can be rebuilt. I would much rather spend $10 to rebuild it than $80 minimum (not including core charge) for a rebuilt or remanufactured caliper, up to several hundred for a new one.

I really didn't want to replace the e-brake cable either.

Thoughts?

 

I don't know what year you have or model , but here is the Gen 1 MINIs cables and the other years and rear caliper example. You metal part of the emergency cables might be rusted or seized inside the tube and not able to move much. Also helps to lift the rubber boot ( see the boot in the pics below ) and spray WD40 or PB blaster inside the tube to loosen things up for the cable. I grab the head of the rear cable and rock it when pushing or prying the emergency brake tab down (the one with the spring). A good set of channel locks or pliers on the head. It might be a good time to check and replace the cables so you will not have the emergency brake sticking and dragging the pads on the rear rotor , a common problem. Also spray some good penetrating oil on the boot part where the metal tube ( round part ) seats into the bracket, when you get the hex head of the cable cord off then the base tends to stick due to rust and corrosion. Works on Gen 1 and Gen 2 MINIs.

Gen 1 R50 R52 R53 Rear brake / emergency brake cables.



Here is the kit for the cables, #8 and #9 in the diagram.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34406777400KT/ 34406777400 KT 34406777400KT





Then the cable hooks to the back of the rear caliper on each side.




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Gen 2 R56 MINI Cooper hardtop (2007+) & R57 MINI Cooper Convertible (2009+) Models

Parking Brake Refresh Kit


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34406769955KT/ 34406769955 KT 34406769955KT






#8 and #9 in the diagram




&

Caliper Housing - Rear ( same function just without the external spring )







&


R55 MINI Clubman (2008+) Version ( longer cables )

Emergency Brake Cable - Left

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34406770869/

and

Emergency Brake Cable - Right


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34406770868/



Same thing as above R56 / R57 with the rear caliper.



Thanks and hope that helps. The rocking of the cable head out of the tab while applying pressure on the e-brake tab seems to pop them out. Good luck.

 

Thank you very much for the quick response, and for taking the time to post all of the pictures and info.

I am right in the middle of a rear brake job on my 2005 MCS (R53). The driver's side went smooth as silk (ok, maybe close...), but when I removed the passenger side caliper, I noted that the dust boot was pretty torn up. I don't know yet if I am going to have to replace the whole caliper, or if I can just get some new seals and dust boot, and repair it. I am just trying to get the stupid caliper off the car, and the only thing remaining is the parking brake cable.

Before starting on this venture, the parking brake worked great, and I had no issues. I have removed the very end of the cable from the part of the caliper with the spring (and can freely move the cable inside of it's jacket); the problem is where the cable passes through the round hole mounting bracket on the caliper. As you mention, it is obviously seized up good (it is supposed to just slide out of the bracket). I would assume there are many years of dirt, gunk and possibly rust that have gotten down in there, and are currently making my life miserable.

I have put channel locks and pliers on the "head", tried to use a chisel between the head and the round hole mounting bracket, and tried to use a drift to knock it out from the other side.

I hate to put all of my eggs in one basket, but if the WD-40 does not work, I may be looking at a new cable, in addition to a caliper. Just trying to salvage what is a smooth operating e-brake cable. EDIT: Especially when I really only need one (passenger side) cable!

Thanks again for the input!

 

You are welcome.

If the little rubber boot for the cables is bad its only a matter of time till stuff gets into the wire tube.

I would replace the cables as you will get rust in there, and while you are messing with them, its just easier to replace. And replace in pair , you do one then down the road the other side will stick.

Grab the head of the cable while prying pack the e/brake tab on the caliper, then "walk it" rocking with the vice grips or pliers. Also make sure the e-brake handle is all the way down on the inside, so you will have as more slack on the cable.

Try PB blaster or similar on the cable near the head, and in the tube. That did it for me.

On the rear calipers since you have a Gen 1 2005 MCS : See above in the post for the Gen 1 parts.

You cannot get the seal for the rear piston from MINI , just the dust boot. One for each caliper.




http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34216757250/



And here are the calipers themselves, they tend to stick with age.


Caliper Housing - Rear Left


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34216763729/

&

Caliper Housing - Rear Right


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34216763730/


Thanks and good luck.

 

Thanks again for the continued support. The little rubber boot is in great shape, as is the rest of the cable.


I will try this next. Last night I only had time to spray some more WD-40 all over it....


Agreed, but there are aftermarket rebuild kits out there that include the dust boot and internal o-ring, just not from Mini.


That's actually a really good price on this, but still considerably more than I would like to spend. I think I can get a rebuild kit for about $16 shipped. Choice #2 would be a rebuilt/reconditioned caliper, which I have seen for about $80, not including core charge.


Hopefully I will have some time to work on it tonight, and will post any results, updates, or pictures of me pulling my hair out.

 

Glad I could help.

Let me know how it goes. The salt and corrosion can really do a number on the cables. Good luck.

 

Sorry for the delay in responding - I'm sure you have all been on pins and needles waiting for my update....

I threw absolutely everything I had at that stupid e-brake cable, but to no avail. I finally determined that I had spent way too much time on it, so I just cut the cable. Even after cutting, it still took me 45 minutes to extract the pieces from the brake caliper hole. I actually had to drill out the part of the e-brake cable that goes through the caliper hole, with larger and larger drill bits until I finally got very close to the size of the hole. Then, and only then, did the part of the e-brake finally come out. There was no way this was coming out without either destroying the cable or the caliper.

On the good side, after disassembling the caliper, it looks like I can get by with rebuilding it as opposed to replacing. And a friend in the next town had a new e-brake cable he sold me for $20. I am still waiting on my caliper rebuild kit to come in (today or tomorrow), but should be back on the road soon!

As an aside, I read in my Haynes manual that part of the exhaust system and heat shield must come out to replace the e-brake cable. Does anyone know if this is true or not? Can I just tape the new cable to the old one and pull it through? I will do some more searching on here, but that seems kinda extreme just to replace the cable.

Also, can I finish replacing the rear brakes (with the rebuilt caliper) and leave the e-brake cable off for now? I hardly ever use the e-brake anyway, and this is a good way to get me on the road quicker, especially if I have to remove the exhaust. Will that hurt anything, as long as I don't pull the e-brake handle?

 

You need to remove the caliper from the rotor to give the e-brake arm enough space to travel so you can unhook it.

 

Seenax - Since you did cut the cable you might be able to tape it to the new cable on the cut end and feed it through, you will have to cut it again on the old cable before the metal curve otherwise it will not fit to make the turn around the tunnel of the exhaust.

"I actually had to drill out the part of the e-brake cable that goes through the caliper hole " did you try PB blaster or something stronger then WD40?

If you have no e-brake till you get it fixed make sure you have the transmission locked in gear for a manual. Automatic locks the trans when in park. As long as you are on flat ground to park.

Here is the tool to help with removing the the front of the cables when the snap into the body. Part # 83300494835

One tool needed per job.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/83300494835/




Here is a link to a nice write up someone did.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ake-cable.html

Thanks and good luck.

 

I know this is a very old thread but it's one of the few I ran into when I had the same problems but couldn't find a proper how-to. However, I just wrote one up so hopefully it helps someone who come upon this article.

Cheers
Nick

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...in-an-r53.html